87 stator/crank cover stripped screw

[Max]

Winter project. In the process of resealing stator wire ports on of my spare 87 and swapping it out on the regular bike to eliminate a pesky leak. Nooo, Don't listen to the pro's, I think it was Marcarl who said the screws have factory locktite and use an impact driver. Broke the head off first attempt by hand. The other 4 screws with impact removed in a minute. Could have saved a couple of days if I'd listened.

 

After breaking off an 'easy out' and about 3 titanium drills in the hole, I got most of innards cleaned out. My question is what would be my next option. I have access to a shop that could fill in hole with aluminum or could I fill in hole with JB weld and retap.(I have a set of taps) I have JB, but not sure if it has the strength. There is quite a bit of meat around the circumference of the inside, however, the top of one edge is thin.

 

Any suggestions welcomed.

 

 

[Flyinfool]

If you have access to TIG welding, that is the very best option. Face drill and tap and you are good as new. Just watch the heat so you do not get an ugly heat spot on the other side.

 

Next choice would be a Helicoil, but it looks like you may already have opened the hole up to far for that.

 

In this application I would not trust JB Weld. If that screw fails it can be very expensive.

[Marcarl]

Yep, you'll either need a good welder who leaves no airpockets or take a chance on JB weld. If you decide to go JB, do not put too much hardner in the mix, so be sure to get it very close to right and then leave it for at least 72 hours at warm temp.

[bongobobny]

Might be easier and cheaper, in the long run, to just find another cover on fleabay, they come up often for a cheap price...

[Marcarl]

Thanks Bob for having me take a second look, I thought it was the engine case,,,, getting old I guess.

Seems to me, just looking at it, that you haven't drilled deep enough yet. There seems to be enough room to go deeper and re-thread the deeper portion. The left over piece of collar will have to stay in place, but if you can drill deeper then get a longer screw you might be able to make it work. Best get the right screw though before you tap the bore or you might get it wrong.

[Max]

Thanks for the prompt responses.

 

The JB weld option is out, sounds a little risky. The reason the hole looks way out of round, had a lot of trouble drilling out the 'easy out' and broken drill bit ends. There is still a small piece of Titanium bit tip embedded in the bottom. Thought it better to 'tap out' before there's more damage. I can just set the original screw inside and center.

Never occurred to me to use a Helicoil. In hind site, that would have been the perfect solution in this case. In the end, I'll take the case and original 3/4", and metric 1" screw to the shop next week and hopefully they'll bail me out. Even the small stuff can turn into a headache.

 

I'll tell ya, I've learned more about cycle wrenching in the last five years from this site alone, thanks to it's members and tech's. The only reason this ol' 87 is still in our garage. Followup to come.

[Pegasus1300]

If you have access to TIG welding, that is the very best option. Face drill and tap and you are good as new. Just watch the heat so you do not get an ugly heat spot on the other side.

 

Next choice would be a Helicoil, but it looks like you may already have opened the hole up to far for that.

 

In this application I would not trust JB Weld. If that screw fails it can be very expensive.

 

Try this stuff, the durobond 7025 aluminum putty. withstands temps to 1000* and is machinable.

 

http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_putties.htm?gclid=CMadsZevwNECFQNrfgodNMsD0g

[Flyinfool]

Thanks for the prompt responses.

 

The JB weld option is out, sounds a little risky. The reason the hole looks way out of round, had a lot of trouble drilling out the 'easy out' and broken drill bit ends. There is still a small piece of Titanium bit tip embedded in the bottom. Thought it better to 'tap out' before there's more damage. I can just set the original screw inside and center.

Never occurred to me to use a Helicoil. In hind site, that would have been the perfect solution in this case. In the end, I'll take the case and original 3/4", and metric 1" screw to the shop next week and hopefully they'll bail me out. Even the small stuff can turn into a headache.

 

I'll tell ya, I've learned more about cycle wrenching in the last five years from this site alone, thanks to it's members and tech's. The only reason this ol' 87 is still in our garage. Followup to come.

 

If there is still some drill bit or screw left in the hole it has to come out before welding. Molten aluminum and molten steel do not play well together. The welding arc will melt all metals.

Best way to clean it out without further damage is to set it up in a mill and plunge the hole with a center cutting solid carbide end mill, go very slow so that you do not break off the carbide end mill, carbide is real hard to get out of the hole.

[bongobobny]

Wow! Just checked ebay for you, lots of clutch covers but currently no stator covers. I remember once buying a stator cover off ebay for around $30 and the stator was still attached and good too!

[Max]

Wow! Just checked ebay for you, lots of clutch covers but currently no stator covers. I remember once buying a stator cover off ebay for around $30 and the stator was still attached and good too!

 

Thanks for checking Bob. As you know, that's one of the bennies of retirement, having the luxury of time to mess around with this stuff and I do love challenges. I have 2 spare part bikes of which this is one of the covers. I`ve kept this spare running ok, but leaks the same. If it doesn`t work out with the shop this coming week, no worse for wear. The prime bike runs like a champ other than that minor leak which I can live with.

Last year on the prime bike I tried to clean and RTV the stator wire ports from the outside with great success ... for about 3 days, and as warned by this forum, do both sides.

Edited January 17, 2017 by Max

[Max]

If you have access to TIG welding, that is the very best option. Face drill and tap and you are good as new. Just watch the heat so you do not get an ugly heat spot on the other side.

 

 

I took it to the shop this morning. Bob says TIG welding it is. Got it back this aft and looks not too bad, lots of metal to work with.

Did get a heat burn on the outside, looks as if the clear coat browned on the corner. I can live that as a 30 year old bike lol. I'll flush grind, drill and tap later.

 

 

[Yammer Dan]

Looks like that'll be as good as new!!

[Flyinfool]

That should do the trick.

 

You can use the part that mounts there to help accurately mark the hole location.

[snyper316]

Hey do you have to drain the oil before you pull that stator cover off? I know probably a goofy question but I wouldn't think oil would get over there unless it is running.

[Max]

Hey do you have to drain the oil before you pull that stator cover off? I know probably a goofy question but I wouldn't think oil would get over there unless it is running.

 

Hey snyp, no question is goofy in my books. Short answer is no. I've read a number of methods prepping bike for cover removal, from actually laying the bike on it's side to shimming the left side of the center stand to slighty lean the bike to the right. I believe you can remove covers with bike on center stand 'as is' and expect to lose a slight amount of residual oil. Maybe someone will chime in here.

 

I decided to drain the oil and will reuse it afterwards. There was a couple of teaspoons residual oil when I pulled both covers off, easy clean-up.

[snyper316]

I just want to pop it open and inspect it at the moment.

 

Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.

[camos]

Hey do you have to drain the oil before you pull that stator cover off? I know probably a goofy question but I wouldn't think oil would get over there unless it is running.

 

Hey snyp, no question is goofy in my books. Short answer is no. I've read a number of methods prepping bike for cover removal, from actually laying the bike on it's side to shimming the left side of the center stand to slighty lean the bike to the right. I believe you can remove covers with bike on center stand 'as is' and expect to lose a slight amount of residual oil. Maybe someone will chime in here.

 

I decided to drain the oil and will reuse it afterwards. There was a couple of teaspoons residual oil when I pulled both covers off, easy clean-up.

You got it right exactly... It isn't necessary to tilt the bike to the left or lay it down. Just put a flat pan under the side cover to catch any drips when it gets pulled off.

 

The first time I changed a stator I laid the bike over on its side and the second time tried it sitting on the side stand. There is no down side to doing the job upright and not having to lift the bike up from flat is a major bonus.

[bikenut]

You can remove the clear coat with paint remover and polish with a electric drill and buffing wheel and alum polish to look like new then coat with VHT high temp clear . I just did mine on my 86 trike.

 

 

 

 

 

I took it to the shop this morning. Bob says TIG welding it is. Got it back this aft and looks not too bad, lots of metal to work with.

Did get a heat burn on the outside, looks as if the clear coat browned on the corner. I can live that as a 30 year old bike lol. I'll flush grind, drill and tap later.

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108098 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108099

Edited January 18, 2017 by bikenut
forgot picture

[Max]

You can remove the clear coat with paint remover and polish with a electric drill and buffing wheel and alum polish to look like new then coat with VHT high temp clear . I just did mine on my 86 trike.

 

First I gotta say, bikenut, dude, that is one beauty job ! You got me thinking now.

Got lots of stuff to strip paint.

Did you oven bake clear coat after application ? The VHT cc flameproof website recommends a 3 stage temperature curing process. I would even consider taking it to the shop for the CC application alone.

[bikenut]

The cans of VHT I got from Amazon stated to cure in a oven at 200 for 1 hour and that was all. It is not hard to do and looks like new. I have done it on both sides of the bike and very happy of the turn out.

Good luck on yours

 

 

First I gotta say, bikenut, dude, that is one beauty job ! You got me thinking now.

Got lots of stuff to strip paint.

Did you oven bake clear coat after application ? The VHT cc flameproof website recommends a 3 stage temperature curing process. I would even consider taking it to the shop for the CC application alone.

[Max]

Used a Dremel reinforced cut off wheel disc to grind surface flush, drilled and tapped.. success. Gasket remover, clean-up and that's about it, not bad for a first. Thanks for the help y'all. In hind sight, as mention in orig post, use an impact driver to remove these screws!!

Hope this help's out someone with similar issue and inexperience.

 

 

[Flyinfool]

Another good plan comes together.......

[bikenut]

Just a little trick to get screws out that have locktite on is to heat them up with a torch a little and they come out easier.

Good luck on your next repair

 

 

Used a Dremel reinforced cut off wheel disc to grind surface flush, drilled and tapped.. success. Gasket remover, clean-up and that's about it, not bad for a first. Thanks for the help y'all. In hind sight, as mention in orig post, use an impact driver to remove these screws!!

Hope this help's out someone with similar issue and inexperience.

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108149

[bongobobny]

OK, one thing to mention here, when ANYONE is working on these bikes, make sure to use JIS Phillips screwdrivers, not SAE drivers. The difference between the two is the angle of the teeth. If you use SAE on a JIS screw, you stand a good chance of stripping out the head. I mention this because when I look at your picture, the head does look a little bit rounded out. I will say that with the larger P3 and P4 heads the chance of rounding them out is less than with the P1 and P2 but it still can happen.

 

As mentioned, a little heat helps to soften the Loctite, and use an impact driver to break them loose. Myself, when I installed my stator I switched to metric hex head bolts...

 

Very glad you were able to get things squared away!! Hopefully, the information in this thread will be helpful to the next person!

[Flyinfool]

OK Silly question time.

Now that Bob mentioned it, That screw head does not look so much like it is rounded out as it looks like it IS a SAE Philips head. What thread did you tap that hole out to?