snyper316 Posted January 10, 2017 Author #26 Posted January 10, 2017 Nope I am learning. But.... if your using 3ohms one on each side that lost me I would think the 6 ohm would be better for each side I would have thought 3 ohm would have to be one at each bulb.
snyper316 Posted January 10, 2017 Author #27 Posted January 10, 2017 FYI I got Heather's cables today and I must say once again she has out done herself on them, I haven't installed them but If I didn't know any better I would think they were made by professionals. O wait they were done by a PRO!! @yamagrl
snyper316 Posted January 10, 2017 Author #28 Posted January 10, 2017 Got one for ya @Flyinfool when I plug the CMS in my signals no longer work.... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
snyper316 Posted January 14, 2017 Author #29 Posted January 14, 2017 By golly I got working flashers Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
snyper316 Posted January 14, 2017 Author #30 Posted January 14, 2017 https://vimeo.com/199488338 Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Flyinfool Posted January 15, 2017 #31 Posted January 15, 2017 Gotta love when a plan comes together. Now stop flashing us, my eyes are burning.
snyper316 Posted January 15, 2017 Author #32 Posted January 15, 2017 By golly lmao man that's funny I said that Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
videoarizona Posted January 19, 2017 #33 Posted January 19, 2017 Regarding cheap led lights.... I've found the non-indexed type may not work due to polarity issues. Just pop them out and reverse them and that usually solves the problem.
snyper316 Posted January 19, 2017 Author #34 Posted January 19, 2017 Yeah the ones from walfarts do work come to find out after I changed the flasher unit out. I am still curious if it is possible to wire that cancelor unit differently so it will work. All it does from what it seems the flasher that came on our bike just sends a signal to the cancelor unit that the lights are blinking.
snyper316 Posted January 28, 2017 Author #35 Posted January 28, 2017 Well so I figured out the Led light thing, So I ordered more stuff for the bike yesterday. I still think I need more lights... not sure the orientation I will put them but that eagle is going on my fender in the front!! Plus I have got a blue led voltmeter installed in my dash will post picture of that in a few minutes. Still trying to navigate with this bug that I have.
snyper316 Posted January 28, 2017 Author #36 Posted January 28, 2017 I think it turned out pretty good
Flyinfool Posted January 28, 2017 #37 Posted January 28, 2017 Looks good. Sounds like you are having fun. I like the voltmeter except it is saying you have an issue. A fully charged battery should read ~12.6V and if the bike is running, it should read ~14V. 11.8 is a bit low. That could be from playing with the lights a lot and the battery is a bit run down, or a bad connection somewhere.
snyper316 Posted January 28, 2017 Author #38 Posted January 28, 2017 Well... Why would I play with the lights and other stuff, I am almost done with the rewiring. Before I started all that I think it was saying 12.4, When it is running at 3000rpm i was getting readings above 14.2 volts so.... When idling tho it was only for a few minutes I was getting 13 something. But yeah I do need to hook my charger too it. I ordered a windscreen for her yesterday and it is due to be at my house today so maybe when I put that in the garage, I will hook my charger to it.
camos Posted January 28, 2017 #39 Posted January 28, 2017 Well so I figured out the Led light thing, So I ordered more stuff for the bike yesterday. I have a pair of the projector LED's in your pic. There is an issue with the attachment to the mounting clamp. The two bolts do not allow any lateral adjustment. There is/was a vendor selling a similar light with just one bolt. To get the alignment I wanted it was necessary to slot the two mounting holes. This is not a deal breaker, just an extra hassel. Looks good. I like the voltmeter except it is saying you have an issue. A fully charged battery should read ~12.6V and if the bike is running, it should read ~14V. 11.8 is a bit low. That could be from playing with the lights a lot and the battery is a bit run down, or a bad connection somewhere.The LED voltmeter looks like it is quite close to the OEM one. What you said is correct but it should be noted here that the engine is obviously not running so 11.8 v is not a bad reading.
snyper316 Posted January 28, 2017 Author #40 Posted January 28, 2017 I have a pair of the projector LED's in your pic. There is an issue with the attachment to the mounting clamp. The two bolts do not allow any lateral adjustment. There is/was a vendor selling a similar light with just one bolt. To get the alignment I wanted it was necessary to slot the two mounting holes. This is not a deal breaker, just an extra hassel. The LED voltmeter looks like it is quite close to the OEM one. What you said is correct but it should be noted here that the engine is obviously not running so 11.8 v is not a bad reading. Well I am gonna assume you paid around 30 for yours also, Will take note of that. I am not expecting much for what I paid for the stuff. If I don't like it there is always the city wide garage sale coming up soon so...
camos Posted January 29, 2017 #41 Posted January 29, 2017 Well I am gonna assume you paid around 30 for yours also, Will take note of that. I am not expecting much for what I paid for the stuff. If I don't like it there is always the city wide garage sale coming up soon so...About that much. I like them and think they are a good buy for the price. Had them for two years, mounted on the engine crash guards. If they are aimed ahead like driving lights there is enough light scatter to blind oncoming vehicles. These lights are not fog lights with a cut off, they are pretty much pencil beamed flood lights. I use them aimed a little bit outboard and a little down to fill in the area below the low-beam and illuminate the left and right hand lines or the shoulder. There have been many dark wet nights when the road is not visible at all so the only way to keep on the pavement is to follow the lane markers that are close by on either side of the road, depending on what lane you are in.
snyper316 Posted February 14, 2017 Author #42 Posted February 14, 2017 Got My tail/brake/turn light in today. Also got some of the dash Leds, still waiting on the colored ones. Also waiting on my eagle head, and the amber leds for the front of the bike. I installed this light with a trailer plug I had laying around it was only 4 prong so I improvised for my ground wire.
snyper316 Posted February 20, 2017 Author #43 Posted February 20, 2017 So it was gonna rain today so I pulled the front fender off, Installed my fender ornament. Now just to figure out how to route the wiring. Is there a plug or something that is up in the fairing that would run the lights if I had the disc cover and fender guards?
bongobobny Posted February 20, 2017 #44 Posted February 20, 2017 Nope, no plug. Just hack into the blue line for running lights...
snyper316 Posted February 22, 2017 Author #45 Posted February 22, 2017 Ok one silly question I put all less in my dash today and since then my headlamp light has been on. Still have silverstar in there... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Flyinfool Posted February 22, 2017 #46 Posted February 22, 2017 Check the obvious first. Is the hi or lo element of the bulb burned out? Just because there is light does not mean it is ok. The bike will automatically switch to the other element if one burns out, and it will then light the headlight warning. Silverstars do not have a very long lifespan.
snyper316 Posted February 23, 2017 Author #47 Posted February 23, 2017 Strange thing that I am baffled by there is no warning in the computer just that white light.... I will check when it gets darker... or do I need to pull the light out and look at it?
Flyinfool Posted February 23, 2017 #48 Posted February 23, 2017 Flip the hi lo switch and see if the beam actually changes. But if the white dash light is on, the red warning should be on to. Are you sure that you put all the bulbs back in the correct locations. Try shifting into gear and see if the white goes out, it might be the neutral light.
camos Posted March 14, 2017 #49 Posted March 14, 2017 Part of the obvious to check is did any of the new bulbs get their position switched? Any misplacement will cause a mixed message.
snyper316 Posted March 14, 2017 Author #50 Posted March 14, 2017 Part of the obvious to check is did any of the new bulbs get their position switched? Any misplacement will cause a mixed message. I no longer have a reserve lighting unit and yeah tried turning the bulb around and unplugging the light that did not work. anyways once I undid the reserve unit my bright indicator stopped flickering while on dim it would start flickering at 1500 rpm and above so no more of any of that all is well now...... everything is led now but at the cost of the reserve lighting unit and canceling unit. I had to also wire up a 3 prong flasher for the four ways basically all that had to be done there is a ground added....
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now