rustoleum Rust Reformer

[garyS-NJ]

Not on my Venture but hey: I am repainting my '79 gs1000 frame because it is scratched and rusty in some areas. I didn't remove the motor so my only option to address the rust is brush/scrape as much as possible then spot treatments and finally prime & paint. I decided to use Rustoleum Rust reformer figuring I could spray it on and "top coat" with Rustoleum black engine Enamel. I masked everything except the frame and since there were lots of rusty areas, I figured I would shoot the whole frame as best as I can hit it. I'm working in a heated shelter outside in the winter so I'm not sure how warm I can get the frame. Has anyone used the Rustoleum Rust Reformer? I understand I should only use the rust reformer on the rusty spots but then I'm wondering what prime to use over the rust reformer and the rest of the frame before topcoat.. Also, the rust reformer says let dry 24hrs at 70F and I won't be at 70F but is that to touch, handle, use, or topcoat with primer??

[Yammer Dan]

Need a paint expert on this one but I would think extra time til it felt good and dry and maybe Hair dryer on it for a while. Or small space heater pointed in that direction??

[yamagrl]

Call Rustoleum. They are pretty good about answering. In my work I use a number of their products; Cabot, Rustoleum, etc. and have called. The 800 number is on their website and I think on the can.

 

Many paint products will say something like "recoat within a certain time frame such as after 4 hour but before 24 hours or else wait until completely cured" Those numbers vary and not all products have those kind of instructions.

 

Usually, if you adhere to the label instructions and not think it out too much you will have successful result.

[Eck]

If it is too cold the paint will wrinkle or crack

Create a temporary spray booth over your bike using plastic sheeting inside your shed / garage.

This not only keeps the overspray from going everywhere, but it is also a place to spray paint when it is too cold to go outside.

Just be sure to open the shed doors while you spray and then close them when you are done.

Use a heat lamp inside the spray booth to keep the temperature up. Put a thermometer in there with you if you want to keep an eye on the temp as you work.

You can quickly lay plastic over the rest of the bike with minimal masking to keep over spray from hitting other areas of the bike.

Don't forget you will need some fresh air circulation if you plan in being in the temporary paint booth for a long period of time.

If you are just spot spraying here and there as you mentioned you were going to do, hold your breath, do a spot spray here and there, then go get another breath of fresh air..

[garyS-NJ]

Thanks all! Ill call them tomorrow, turns out I decided not to shoot today and wait for warmer weather after the rain. I masked and spraying outside on my cycle shell platform but before and after spraying, I have the cycle shell closed with heaters on to preheat the metal and then cure the paint. Not sure what temps I got when I shot the motor bc I couldn't find my thermometer but ill get one for the frame paint.. And I read the can for the rust reformer and engine enamel. Neither addressed prime or recommended Top coat times (other than let the reformer cure for 24 hrs). My motor paint didn't wrinkle but I got retarded and mistakenly shot the vht engine paint instead of the but prime. Luckily the engine had decent paint and seems it coated well. Will know when she fires and gets some exposure.

 

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[garyS-NJ]

spoke with Rustoleum tech support today and deceided against their rust reformer because that is just for rusted metal (and I would be going over some clean sanded metal as well as existing paint). Their tech support said the rust reformer only sticks to rust.. I would have liked to use Master Series CT Silver prime or Por-15 to spot paint the rust but settled on the Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.. will see.

[yamagrl]

spoke with Rustoleum tech support today and deceided against their rust reformer because that is just for rusted metal (and I would be going over some clean sanded metal as well as existing paint). Their tech support said the rust reformer only sticks to rust.. I would have liked to use Master Series CT Silver prime or Por-15 to spot paint the rust but settled on the Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.. will see.

 

I've seen some really good results with their Rusty metal primer, especially the brush grade.

 

I use Rustoleum Aluminum (brush grade more often than aerosol) for the silver/grey on Yamahas in areas like the TripTree on Vstars and also First Gen engine. If you keep at it you can actually brush out the brush marks. It will also stop rust and adhesion is great. I guess the aluminum grounds out the galvanic action, changes the polarity or something... works. But it takes forever to stir the aluminum from the bottom of the can. If it's been sitting for a while I'll turn the can over periodically.

[Yammer Dan]

 

I've seen some really good results with their Rusty metal primer, especially the brush grade.

 

I use Rustoleum Aluminum (brush grade more often than aerosol) for the silver/grey on Yamahas in areas like the TripTree on Vstars and also First Gen engine. If you keep at it you can actually brush out the brush marks. It will also stop rust and adhesion is great. I guess the aluminum grounds out the galvanic action, changes the polarity or something... works. But it takes forever to stir the aluminum from the bottom of the can. If it's been sitting for a while I'll turn the can over periodically.

 

Use a sponge brush to cut the brush marks out when doing something like this. The cheap ones do fine.

[yamagrl]

Use a sponge brush to cut the brush marks out when doing something like this. The cheap ones do fine.

 

Yep

[garyS-NJ]

The master series CT silver prime has aluminum in it. I just painted a radiator with some aluminum paint and it Definately has a way of costing anything. Master series says the aluminum fills the pits but I wonder if sacrifices to the steel to passivate.

 

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