Lost rear brake going down off ramp - repair guidance needed

[VentureFar]

2007 Royal Star Midnight Venture with 35000 miles. no drips on my garage floor, brake worked fine getting gas and stopping at the light before the freeway on ramp. About 30 miles on the freeway and then getting off a long off ramp it just felt like the pedal was lower than muscle memory would have it. Each time I pumped the foot brake to check the action it got lower and lower but was working till it hit bottom one time and then it obviously stopped working. I continued a few miles to my friends house just using the front- I was planning on picking up a passenger but this bike doubles the stopping distance with just the front and 2 up would have been totally unsafe in Los Angeles. I checked and the rear tire is totally splattered and fresh brake fluid was dripping from the inside of the caliper area.

Getting home I took off the right bag and washed the whole area to not have it eat the paint. the close up is the inside of the caliper and there is a very flat and sharp piece of metal - you can see it in the photo- wedged between the brakepad and the disc.

 

Just took off the caliper and found I had worn the brake pad down to the metal and then through the metal. oops.

looks like I need new pads, two new piston things and a rebuild kit

Does anything go BOING when replacing those parts or is it straight forward?

 

Thanks

VentureFar... except not this time : - )

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/ihavethespirit/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/20161210_164433_zpsmik6qxsl.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/ihavethespirit/Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Midnight%20Venture/20161210_162642_zpsqn3awrxh.jpg

[Du-Rron]

I am impressed that the rotor is not messed up.

New parts that you mentioned should get you going again.

[BlueSky]

It probably doesn't need new pistons, just seals. I'm assuming the pistons are metal. Most autos now have plastic caliper pistons that aren't the best choice. I would replace the pistons if they are plastic. It most likely leaked because the piston was pushed out so far with all of the pad worn out. No springs or parts to fly and hide when you disassemble it as far as I know. I have rebuilt auto calipers but not bike calipers.

[Yammer Dan]

Could probally clean everything very carefully and just replace pad. But it would be better to get a good look at those seals and if you see any marks or tears on them. Replace. If you do this check good for leak before you take it out of Garage!! A torn seal can cause brakes to fail quickly.

[dave_wells]

Leave the Brake fluid a little low when done.

This will help the pads to wear evenly.

 

Not to low just enough to allow the pistons to release all the way

[bongobobny]

Yup, my thought too, it's just that the pistons traveled too far and are extended to the point that they went past the seals. You will probably notice that the front pad still has some pad left on it, it is common for the inside pad to wear faster than the outside one. What some of us do is when you change the oil, rotate the rear pads...

[WildBill1]

With that metal to metal contact and as much heat that created I would replace the seals in the rear caliper. They are probably baked. Brakes need to be perfect on a motorcycle.

[djh3]

Here is a couple thoughts. As mentioned those bikes are notorious for one pad wearing more then the other. Swap at each oil change is good practice. Now the brake pads are a bonded type. Which means the material is sort of glued to the backing plate. Now if it get worn way down the material can get dislodged and then its metal to metal. Also the pucks are only supposed to go out so far. If all the material is gone off the backing plate, it could be just far enough the seals get out of the range they are in the bore and wa-la, leaky leaky

I had my brakes fade out on me 2 up going down a mountain road. They got overheated and had not been bled in a while and must have boiled the fluid. SO a word to you would be to flush all the hydraulics every year. A few bucks and maybe an hour is worth it.

[VentureFar]

Hi all, Thanks for the info. My caliper is badly scored on the inside. The rear/smaller piston even wore down and pushed out of the hole, ugggh! I am replacing all seals and 4 pistons.

 

New oem disc is $200. Any suggestions on aftermarket for the disc?

My tire store checked the rear pads when I changed the rear tire 12,000 miles ago, said they were at 50% -

All good info about rotating the pads.

 

Is there a cheaper disc option? where to buy?

Thanks all

VentureFar....soon

 

fyi I didn't get any notifications of responses to this thread. Always have before. That is why I haven't responded sooner

[BlueSky]

Looks like rear rotors are available on ebay for around $50. Quality would be anyone's guess.

[VentureFar]

Going to trust the guy I have been buying my tires from since 2004. He is suggesting a US made rear rotor for $108 - 1/2 the price of OEM.

Going with factory pads though. Have had squeaking issues using aftermarket pads on other bikes.

Great idea to rotate the pads at each oil change. Didn't hear or see that anywhere on the forum.

Very costly to NOT be active on this forum !

Thanks all,

VentureFar...soon

[djh3]

I put carbon fiber pads in mine last. The set before that were HH sintered I think.

[VentureFar]

I am impressed that the rotor is not messed up.

New parts that you mentioned should get you going again.

I looked closer and rotor is really grooved on the back side and light grooved on the outside. With all the heat from metal on metal. The metal backing of the inner pad melted to one of the Pistons. I am replacing the rotor too. Really an expensive mess.

VentureFar. ...

[bongobobny]

As far as notifications, go to your settings and check things out there...

[VentureFar]

As far as notifications, go to your settings and check things out there...

 

Notifications stated again after that post. Didn't change anything on the thread tools. Weird. But fixed now.

Thanks

VentureFar....