sho_greg Posted November 8, 2016 #1 Posted November 8, 2016 Need some thoughts.. bike charges when in neutral.. my neutral light doesn't work.. when changing the neutral bulb wires sparked... nor sure what I blew but I'm guessing it's having an effect... Anyone have any ideas.. These are the things that font work... NEUTRAL light Cruise control Fuel gauge flashes at both ends
gggGary Posted November 8, 2016 #2 Posted November 8, 2016 Weirdo stuff like that is often a (missing) ground issue Get out your VOM and check voltage battery positive to frame, engine, forks. See if those are all a strong 12 volts. engine off, then running.
Du-Rron Posted November 8, 2016 #3 Posted November 8, 2016 Remove the bulb you just put in. See if conditions improve. Let us know.
Flyinfool Posted November 8, 2016 #4 Posted November 8, 2016 Since you made sparks, check for blown fuses.
bongobobny Posted November 8, 2016 #5 Posted November 8, 2016 OK my initial thoughts are something gone astray in the Starting Circuit Cut-off Relay, which is located in the area under the battery box where the fuel pump and filter are. Sometimes that assembly falls off of it's mounting bracket, it's held on with a rubber strap, and it falls against the engine and the case gets melted and it causes all sorts of issues!! Now, the bike does start and run?? By "the cruise won't work" do you mean no lights, nothing?? I guess there is a remote possibility something is wrong with the entire dash assembly, kind of hard to troubleshoot remotely without further voltage tests, etc... In case you didn't know it, here's the wiring schematic http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf
sho_greg Posted November 8, 2016 Author #6 Posted November 8, 2016 All fuses are good.. I wonder if a bad neutral switch could cause all of this?? The cruise light will light up but then disappear after 2-3 seconds... Is their anything that controls some of this that could have melted or burnt up...??
bongobobny Posted November 8, 2016 #7 Posted November 8, 2016 That's why I mentioned the SC C/O relay and it's mounting...
bongobobny Posted November 8, 2016 #8 Posted November 8, 2016 I remember a while back someone having an issue with the cruise not staying set and it was the clutch switch being loose or broken or something like that...
sho_greg Posted November 14, 2016 Author #9 Posted November 14, 2016 Update... checked Rectifier wiring.. and sure enough one of the wires had come off.. Really two.. So I guess when it shifted into gear it was enough to lose contact. Weird but fixed for now.. I have a lot of probs with this charging system.. but it is now charging at 13.4 at idle and about 14.1 at 3k rpms.. We shall see how long it lasts this time..
Du-Rron Posted November 14, 2016 #10 Posted November 14, 2016 How did the wires come off and from where???
bongobobny Posted November 14, 2016 #11 Posted November 14, 2016 Yes it does sound like it is regulating a little on the high side, they all regulate at slightly different voltages, but I don't think that it is overcharging to the point where it will cook your battery. As you said time will tell I guess...
sho_greg Posted November 15, 2016 Author #12 Posted November 15, 2016 it is a Ricks high output stator... SO im guessing thats why it is doing a little more... I just cant ever crimp these GM contacts correctly.
bongobobny Posted November 16, 2016 #13 Posted November 16, 2016 No, a HO stator only increases it's total capacity or capability if you prefer. The R/R regulates at what voltage level the charging system will charge to. At low (idle) RPM's there is not enough input from the stator for the R/R to reach it's maximum output, but as you increase RPM's the stator finally supplies enough input to the R/R for it to reach it's saturation. Once you reach that point, the R/R will not produce any higher voltage regardless of how many more RPM's you go to. The excess output from the stator is shunted to ground in essence. Now, as the load on the battery increases, the more energy the R/R has to supply. So, with a small load on the battery you may reach the maximum voltage output at say arbitrarily 3000 RPM, but if you then switch on your driving lights, turn the radio up real loud, and honk your air horn all together, there is a bigger demand on the battery so the R/R output will seem to drop at the same RPM. But if you increase your rev's the output will eventually reach it's maximum, but it will be at say maybe 4500 RPM...
camos Posted November 16, 2016 #14 Posted November 16, 2016 Update... checked Rectifier wiring.. and sure enough one of the wires had come off.. Really two.. So I guess when it shifted into gear it was enough to lose contact. Weird but fixed for now.. I have a lot of probs with this charging system.. but it is now charging at 13.4 at idle and about 14.1 at 3k rpms.. What wires came off? Seems to me if any wires came off the R/R should not work at all. Yes it does sound like it is regulating a little on the high side, they all regulate at slightly different voltages, but I don't think that it is overcharging to the point where it will cook your battery. As you said time will tell I guess... I don't think it is overcharging at all. As far as I know 14.2 is the generally acceptable upper limit.
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