snyper316 Posted December 27, 2016 #26 Posted December 27, 2016 Yeah I know better then that too I asked if he load tested he said yes but he set it for 225 at autozone Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
bongobobny Posted December 28, 2016 #27 Posted December 28, 2016 I haven't a clue how this post is showing new but.... Took my battery to autozone and oreily the both told me battery is fine. I just don't see how when even fully charged I get no sparks. Now I charged battery to full it get to 12.9 to 13.1 as soon as I turn the key on it nose dives within a minute to 9.6 volts. Unplugged the head light fuse charged the battery to full hit the key within 1 minute it nosed dived to 10.2 volts. So I have very good reason to believe my battery is toast. When I hit the starter it dived to 6.8 volts. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.Your issue could be corrosion somewhere on one of the battery cables, especially where the ground goes to the frame!! Also, upgrade your inadequate 1st Gen battery cables with a heavier duty set like Yamagrl sells... Also, there has been instances where the screws on the main fuse get corroded and you will loose voltage there as well!
snyper316 Posted December 28, 2016 #28 Posted December 28, 2016 While testing directly to the battery with my voltmeter? Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
snyper316 Posted December 28, 2016 #29 Posted December 28, 2016 Just asking because that is how I tested the voltage. This battery has been junk since I got it. It is an everstart power sports battery the one you have to add acid too Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
bongobobny Posted December 28, 2016 #30 Posted December 28, 2016 Ahhh, OK, thought maybe you were looking at your dashboard voltmeter. As long as the probes are on the battery terminals and not the connectors then probably your battery is junk then. Lead acid batteries can develop issues with the plates intermittently shorting out. Spend the extra money on a good AGM battery. They will run you around $100 but when properly maintained (do not use a float charger on them) they will give you more energy and last a long time. There is also a battery out there made by Odessey that seems to last forever, but 10 years ago they were around $110, but now days they want around $250 for them. I have one that I bought in 2006 that is still good!!
snyper316 Posted December 28, 2016 #31 Posted December 28, 2016 Ahhh, OK, thought maybe you were looking at your dashboard voltmeter. As long as the probes are on the battery terminals and not the connectors then probably your battery is junk then. Lead acid batteries can develop issues with the plates intermittently shorting out. Spend the extra money on a good AGM battery. They will run you around $100 but when properly maintained (do not use a float charger on them) they will give you more energy and last a long time. There is also a battery out there made by Odessey that seems to last forever, but 10 years ago they were around $110, but now days they want around $250 for them. I have one that I bought in 2006 that is still good!! Well something I never realized, me and my son both got our batteries at the same time. His rebel has the AGM battery we have never charged it. It spins that bike like it's a 50cc motor. I thought maybe I could spin mine over. Nope no good but that is when I noticed and remembered it was AGM. Think we got it AutoZone for 80 or so mine was like around 50. I remember the Convo we had why his battery was smaller but cost more then mine, I can never remember his name at AutoZone but the guy knows his stuff, I believe he owns a roady. He suggested we get the AGM and said he has one in each of his vehicles. So that's why I'm kicking myself for not listening to him about the iridium plugs. Sometimes I just too stubborn and a tightwad. After this battery I believe I will listen to any suggestions this guy offers. I bet if he tested my battery he would have knew what I needed. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
bongobobny Posted December 28, 2016 #32 Posted December 28, 2016 As far as the iridium plugs go, yes they are more expensive, but they last a lot longer which justifies the price! Feeling a little penny wise, dollar foolish are we???
snyper316 Posted December 28, 2016 #33 Posted December 28, 2016 Guess you could say that.... But when you have spent 5500 and another 1200 getting the bike going you cut corners you shouldn't. Should have spent the 40 for plugs and 120 for the battery wouldn't be replacing already. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
snyper316 Posted December 28, 2016 #34 Posted December 28, 2016 Just to clarify I did not spend 5500 on the bike that was spent on a 02 Tahoe. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
snyper316 Posted December 30, 2016 #35 Posted December 30, 2016 Ahhh, OK, thought maybe you were looking at your dashboard voltmeter. As long as the probes are on the battery terminals and not the connectors then probably your battery is junk then. Lead acid batteries can develop issues with the plates intermittently shorting out. Spend the extra money on a good AGM battery. They will run you around $100 but when properly maintained (do not use a float charger on them) they will give you more energy and last a long time. There is also a battery out there made by Odessey that seems to last forever, but 10 years ago they were around $110, but now days they want around $250 for them. I have one that I bought in 2006 that is still good!! Um Bob the battery I am looking at is An Odyssey battery for 106 its agm but the terminals look as if they would work? http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html
Condor Posted December 30, 2016 #36 Posted December 30, 2016 Um Bob the battery I am looking at is An Odyssey battery for 106 its agm but the terminals look as if they would work? http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html One of the problems I had with the Odyssey was that the foot print didn't match the OEM. That's one of the reasons I finally went with the Deka. They match the battery model exactely.... On the battery going dead after a couple of days sitting with out using the bike. I found that if I turned the audio system off when sitting that didn't happen. On the charging issue. Some great info in this thread, but just to make it easy, check the charging voltage at the battery anodes before delving into seek mode. Remember it has to be above 2000rpm for the charge to kick in and should be around 14-14.4vdc. Anything more it's generally the rectifier. Anything less it's usually the stator. Just because you get a high volt reading doesn't mean that the batt is getting amps. I ran my '99RSV for almost three days with a Deka and no charge between Sacramento and Cody. Finally died across the street from a Southern Auto in Thermopolis Wy. 80 miles south of Cody. The fact that it died was bad karma. The fact that it died where it did was good Karma. There was absolutely nothing for the next 80 miles... including gas stations, but that's another story... :-)
snyper316 Posted December 30, 2016 #37 Posted December 30, 2016 @Condor I can't even get the bike to start but the battery is 260 that I have its toasted Which I'm sure will be confirmed. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Condor Posted December 30, 2016 #38 Posted December 30, 2016 Condor I can't even get the bike to start but the battery is 260 that I have its toasted Which I'm sure will be confirmed.. I'm not sure I follow... What's a 260??
snyper316 Posted December 30, 2016 #39 Posted December 30, 2016 260 cold cranking amps, sorry thats where I am getting confused, some battery's I have looked at are up to 330 CCA, The Odysey is much lower. The Deka battery I am trying to find. I just would like to have more then a 90 day warranty on a battery also. That is another problem I am trying to get past. Just tired of pissing money away on battery's. I don't know about motorcycle battery. But with the Auto Batterys you used to be able to get as much as a 7 yr warranty, and now the most I have seen is 3 yr warranty and its prorated after a 1yr... the 7 yr warranty was prorated after 5 yrs. The battery I had in my van back in 04 lasted 10 yrs. As a matter of fact it is still in the mustang as of today as far as I know because my son has yet to buy a battery for it. The other battery's I have had didn't make it past 3 yrs before they had to be replaced. Did they forget how to make good battery's ?
Flyinfool Posted December 30, 2016 #40 Posted December 30, 2016 It is not that they forgot how to make good batteries. The car designers keep wanting the same CCA but in a smaller lighter package. To get that requires compromises. in this case they have to make the plates thinner and out of a foam like lead to get the same surface area as the old ones had with thicker and more plates. Thinner plates will not last as strong and will fail sooner. All that the car designers care about is a smaller lighter battery that will get past the 36 month new car warranty. I just had to replace a 3 year old battery in my truck, it is a 2011 and this is its 3rd battery. But the battery is smaller and lighter with more CCA than the monster that was in my old truck and lasted 6-7 years. Everything in electronics is a compromise you want more CCA you have to give something else up, size, or weight, or longevity. Nowadays they are giving up longevity in exchange for CCA and size. For the bike I still like the good old flooded cell Yuasa. it has less CCA than an AGM, but those big thick plates last a long time. The bike was designed to work with the lower CCA of the Yuasa.
Condor Posted December 30, 2016 #41 Posted December 30, 2016 260 cold cranking amps, sorry thats where I am getting confused, some battery's I have looked at are up to 330 CCA, The Odysey is much lower. The Deka battery I am trying to find. I just would like to have more then a 90 day warranty on a battery also. That is another problem I am trying to get past. Just tired of pissing money away on battery's. I don't know about motorcycle battery. But with the Auto Batterys you used to be able to get as much as a 7 yr warranty, and now the most I have seen is 3 yr warranty and its prorated after a 1yr... the 7 yr warranty was prorated after 5 yrs. The battery I had in my van back in 04 lasted 10 yrs. As a matter of fact it is still in the mustang as of today as far as I know because my son has yet to buy a battery for it. The other battery's I have had didn't make it past 3 yrs before they had to be replaced. Did they forget how to make good battery's ? The amp rating is how much the battery will deliver with a given drain on it. 260 is a pretty weak battery by todays standards. 330 is a lot better. Also I find that if you're looking around for the best buy to save a few bucks in the long run it's false economy. Another thing to consider is... buy 'Made in the USA'. There are a lot of cheap batteries on the market from Taiwan. They are cheaply constructed and don't last. The best way to judge a battery is pick it up... Heavy is good. More lead plates and larger surface to transfer ions/amps... As far as a car battery lasting longer has nothing to do with the quality. It's generally used daily, and recharged after starting the vehicle... it's only job. All other electrical draws are handled buy an alternator. Most are rated between at a 60-90amp output. Our rectifiers are designed to limit the output to 26amps, and I read somewhere it takes 45 minutes of riding to replace the amps used by the starter. It's easy to start adding electronics to over load the charging system output. Heated grips.. seats.. vests.. gloves.. lighting.. audio.. etc. I tested one of the Taiwans in my '83VR on a group ride. I found that the tape player ate amps like a horse eating oats, and caused the bike to pull more amps than the charger could provide, and after a day of riding the battery got to the point it would barely turn the motor over. Turned off the tape player and the battery recharged back to full. If it had been an AGM/330 it might not have been a problem, or at least would have lasted a lot longer. My 2¢
snyper316 Posted December 30, 2016 #42 Posted December 30, 2016 I don't have this thing you call a tape player... I have these shiny circular things that has 3 motors one eats the circle,one turns the circle, the other reads the circle. I'm switching out for just radio, Bluetooth, and mp3 player. Hoping that will help as I don't use the frisbies no more. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
snyper316 Posted December 30, 2016 #43 Posted December 30, 2016 Took the battery back to O'Reilly's he did a few test and it ended up being a bad cell. Got an AMG battery in there now. Now to find the problem for no fire on 4 cylinder. So much fun getting to everything. Does the stator come with the pick up coils? Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
bongobobny Posted December 30, 2016 #44 Posted December 30, 2016 OK that is a good price on the Odessey, but there are 2 versions of the 680, and the preferred one is the 680M which has a metal jacket around the outside primarily for thermal reasons. Yes, those terminals work out just fine! As Condor pointed out they don't fit perfectly in the battery holder, they are a little thinner but finding a sheet of foam or a piece of plywood all is good. The Deka is an OEM for several other brands such as the ones Auto Zone and O'Reilys sell! Not sure what model number you need for a 1st gen...
snyper316 Posted December 31, 2016 #45 Posted December 31, 2016 I ended up getting the AGM from O'reily auto parts, Also the Iridium plugs. Still didn't have spark at all four so I got to do some fun things tonight!:bang head: Like replace a few wires that had been patched in. Replaced some more connectors inside the plugs. Had spark at all 4 double checked as I went silly tinker fired up on 3&4 only when I was checking number 1 for spark gap. Got it all done tho now just to figure out where the buy button is on those cables while I have the plastic off gonna replace them too. But first I am gonna enjoy my New Years celebration even if I have to do it by myself.
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