CaseyJ955 Posted October 30, 2016 #1 Posted October 30, 2016 I got the front together with R6 calipers, Vmax splitter, homemade aluminum adapter and braided lines off an R6 that barely fit, so that part is done. In delinking I'm around the back of the bike now and found that the rear caliper has two frozen pistons. I see the rebuild kits for around $50 on ebay but wondering if another Front Right R6 caliper wouldnt do just fine on the rear. I can pick one of those up for around $25 in "working" order. The mounting looks identical and the angle looks right. Is it to much grab for the rear or should this be a go? Thanks!
VanRiver Posted October 30, 2016 #2 Posted October 30, 2016 (edited) Hi CaseyJ955, Yes I can confirm that a right front R6/R1 calliper works great and bolts right on the back with no problem and no modification needed...it has slightly better gripping power but nothing too noticeable. I have 3 of my Venture's converted over running R6/R1 callipers (both Blue dot and Yellow Dot) on both front and rears of my bikes. Here is a pic of a Yellow dot on the rear of my Arizona 1986 Venture Royale named AZZI for reference. Might as well have the newer technology callipers all the way around in my opinion! Oh I forgot to mention.....only down side of using a right front calliper on the rear is, if you will notice in my picture the bleeder valve is now no longer positioned at the highest spot to get trapped air bubbles out when it is bolted in...this can be a real pain when bleeding as Mother Yamaha never intended this calliper to be laying in the down position on the rear ...but all I do to resolve this is I bleed the calliper when it is not bolted in on the back bracket. The hose is long enough to tilt the calliper up so the bleeder valve is at the highest spot, I put a scrap piece of metal, wood in between the pads and then bleed all the air out......then once all is good I finally bolt the calliper in to the rear bracket and life is good. Hope that helps. CaseyJ955 said: I got the front together with R6 calipers, Vmax splitter, homemade aluminum adapter and braided lines off an R6 that barely fit, so that part is done. In delinking I'm around the back of the bike now and found that the rear caliper has two frozen pistons. I see the rebuild kits for around $50 on ebay but wondering if another Front Right R6 caliper wouldnt do just fine on the rear. I can pick one of those up for around $25 in "working" order. The mounting looks identical and the angle looks right. Is it to much grab for the rear or should this be a go? Thanks! Edited October 30, 2016 by VanRiver
CaseyJ955 Posted October 30, 2016 Author #3 Posted October 30, 2016 VanRiver said: Hi CaseyJ955, Yes I can confirm that a right front R6/R1 calliper works great and bolts right on the back with no problem and no modification needed...it has slightly better gripping power but nothing too noticeable. I have 3 of my Venture's converted over running R6/R1 callipers (both Blue dot and Yellow Dot) on both front and rears of my bikes. Here is a pic of a Yellow dot on the rear of my Arizona 1986 Venture Royal named AZZI for reference. Might as well have the newer technology callipers all the way around in my opinion! Oh I forgot to mention.....only down side of using a right front calliper on the rear is, if you will notice in my picture the bleeder valve is now no longer positioned at the highest spot to get trapped air bubble out when it is bolted in...this can be a real pain when bleeding as Mother Yamaha never intended this calliper to be laying in the down on the rear ...but all I do to resolve this is I bleed the calliper when it is not bolted in on the back bracket. The hose is long enough to tilt the calliper up so the bleeder valve is at the highest spot, I put a scrap piece of metal, wood in between the pads and then bleed all the air out......then once all is good I finally bolt the calliper in to the rear bracket and life is good. Hope that helps. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=107734 That helps a great deal! I agree on the newer tech which is why I was reluctant to rehash the almost three decade old caliper that was on it. Ordering one now. Thank you very much for that info. It's not often that the cheaper way is also a better way.
bongobobny Posted October 31, 2016 #4 Posted October 31, 2016 The "trick" is bleeding it! What you do is find a block of wood or something that will fit between the pads. then with the caliper unbolted position the bleeder so that is at the top in the highest position, then bleed as normal...
BlueSky Posted October 31, 2016 #5 Posted October 31, 2016 skydoc sells a rear caliper that has the bleed valve in the correct position, I think.
CaseyJ955 Posted October 31, 2016 Author #6 Posted October 31, 2016 I didnt even think about bleeder screw position. I should be able to grab a piece of tile or something thicker than the rotor. Crap, I would missed that. Thank you!
retrostude Posted November 3, 2016 #7 Posted November 3, 2016 When I de-linked and installed r1 calipers out front I simply relocated a front one to the rear and bled as noted. I'm not convinced the r1 is a significantly better caliper than the mark 2's had. It is identical to what the vmax used up thru 2007. But I found a pair that had been chromed so what the heck. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
CaseyJ955 Posted November 4, 2016 Author #8 Posted November 4, 2016 retrostude said: When I de-linked and installed r1 calipers out front I simply relocated a front one to the rear and bled as noted. I'm not convinced the r1 is a significantly better caliper than the mark 2's had. It is identical to what the vmax used up thru 2007. But I found a pair that had been chromed so what the heck. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk I thought about moving the front right out back but it had frozen pistons. I found another good RF R6 caliper for $20 shipped so I figured that was a good way to go for a rear. Im trying to spend as little as possible, I was going to delink and use the same calipers had they been serviceable but this was not the case. Thankfully ebay is littered with all sorts of neat stuff like this. Ill get it together on the cheap but I think chromed calipers would look pretty cool.
retrostude Posted November 4, 2016 #9 Posted November 4, 2016 Yup price is right. I think my chrome set was $60 shipped. Meanwhile I have several sets of mark 2 /vmax calipers lying around. Only ever had the one rear go bad and I think the linked master caused it. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
CaseyJ955 Posted November 5, 2016 Author #10 Posted November 5, 2016 I have a pile of bad calipers now from vmax and venture and not sure if they have any core value. Im going to keep the rear master and hose as it is. I already blocked the port to the front and removed all the extra plumbing but I think I have to gut the proportioning valve for it to function proprtly. When I get home from work next week the rest of the parts should be waiting.
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