uncledj Posted October 19, 2016 #1 Posted October 19, 2016 This plays off of my recent post about replacing the exhaust manifold bolts on my 01 Dodge pickup. 5.9...(360) I ended up being able to remove the broken studs / bolts that were protruding from the head. The two that were broken off flush I couldn't get out, tried the easy out thing, but abandoned that for fear of breaking the easy out, which would put me in a world of hurt... and the holes I drilled for the easy out are pretty well centered, so I'm going to drill them to size and re-tap the heads. Looks like it'll work out. I think I'll put the one manifold back on, then put it all back together and see if it solves the problem. I can't see where the other side has any evidence of leaking....I can find no cracks in the manifold...so I'm not gonna mess with the other side unless it's necessary. The interesting thing is that there were no gaskets. I saw that gaskets are available, so I got a set, but am now wondering if I should use them or not. Opinions?
stroker ace Posted October 19, 2016 #2 Posted October 19, 2016 I put the two end bolts and the manifold loosely on the head and with just hand pressure check the gap between the manifold and head. I usually use a .005 feeler gauge, If I can't remove the feeler with just hand pressure I use the ultra copper rtv as the gasket and install. If it's over the .005 I use the gaskets.
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted October 19, 2016 #3 Posted October 19, 2016 The way I look at it is.... how hard was it to take apart the first time..... do you want to do it again? I am Canadian so cannot use the 2 cents thing (we don't have pennies) so that is my nickels worth.
uncledj Posted October 19, 2016 Author #4 Posted October 19, 2016 The way I look at it is.... how hard was it to take apart the first time..... do you want to do it again? I am Canadian so cannot use the 2 cents thing (we don't have pennies) so that is my nickels worth. With your Canadian equivalent of are you suggesting I use the gasket? Anyhoo, I'll never seize everything up pretty good, so it shouldn't be so difficult to remove again, if it should be necessary. (At least for a while)
ragtop69gs Posted October 19, 2016 #5 Posted October 19, 2016 Stroker has the right idea. If you must use gaskets, get copper gaskets if they are available. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
baylensman Posted October 19, 2016 #6 Posted October 19, 2016 many manufactures do not use gaskets on the exhaust side going back to the early 30's. This is to help with heat transfer and "increasing" the surface area that radiates heat. Up to 70% of engine cooling is via radiant heat off the block and attached parts! Oil and water take up the other 30%, that's why an engine will run so long with no water or antifreeze. As far as seizing and breaking bolts that's usually do to disimilar metals in the nuts and studs contracting and expanding at different rates over the years. Any time i get a stuck exhasut manifold bolt, I stop put the other bolts or nuts back in and "warm" up the engine, or use a "Smoke wrench" to heat up the bolt a bit and hit it again with the socket. if the mating surfaces have gotten to warped, you can get a manifold machined pretty cheaply. If thats out Ultra Copper transfers heat, as a last resort a full metal gasket and ultra copper.
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted October 19, 2016 #7 Posted October 19, 2016 With your Canadian equivalent of are you suggesting I use the gasket? Anyhoo, I'll never seize everything up pretty good, so it shouldn't be so difficult to remove again, if it should be necessary. (At least for a while) I would do the gasket first time. I know they are not always needed but if there had been a leak orevious then there could be damage to the faces. I would gasket it. Yes to never sieze but on exhaust system even that is not perfect.
uncledj Posted October 22, 2016 Author #8 Posted October 22, 2016 As far as mating surfaces go, the heads look pretty good, but the manifolds had some flaking rust. I tapped the surfaces lightly with a ball pein hammer to flake the rust off, then took a wire wheel to it, but there's some surface imperfections. Should I see if I can get the manifold resurfaced....go with a gasket....or use the copper sealer...???
ragtop69gs Posted October 22, 2016 #10 Posted October 22, 2016 Just like my headers on the GS , the only gaskets that SEAL and last are solid Copper. They are more expensive but work and will transfer heat well.
uncledj Posted October 23, 2016 Author #11 Posted October 23, 2016 I went with the copper gaskets. You're right....they're pricey, at just shy of $50 to my door, but like Kevin said, heat transfer is important so I had to agree that copper would be best. Now to wait for the parts.
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