1986 Venture Rear Suspension Issues

[dusty roads]

New member needs advice,

Sorting out a 86 Venture I purchased recently and found the rear suspension pivots have way too much play in the center link, bottom shock mount. Front and rear pivots are not bad. Previous owner told me some of the suspension bushings were replaced four years ago.

 

 

My concern is does the shock have to be removed from the top mount to replace bushings and are they available. Will I be able to reassemble with the load off the shock. Also I noticed an open port-threaded hole on the top right side of the shock? Rear of shock has compressor line and left side has dampener line attached.

 

 

Working on horn button presently and see nothing wrong internally but the horns get no voltage when switch pressed. The clutch master and slave cylinder I believe are also due for a rebuild. While speaking of clutch, are the friction plates interchangeable with a 2002 second gen as someone told me?

 

 

So far I have checked the valves and got lucky, all were within spec. New valve cover gaskets, won't say how long it took me to install the front one. New plugs which made it run much better. New rear tire, greased the drive shaft spines, bearings, new oring, deferential fluid, etc.

Forks seem fine for now but need new rotors on the front. Missed a great pair for 30.00 since I was asleep at the switch. Rear rotor was replaced.

 

 

I'm rushing to get as much done as I can since the cold weather is setting in and am working in an unheated detached garage.

Any help on these and upcoming problems are more than welcome.

[Marcarl]

New member needs advice,

Sorting out a 86 Venture I purchased recently and found the rear suspension pivots have way too much play in the center link, bottom shock mount. Front and rear pivots are not bad. Previous owner told me some of the suspension bushings were replaced four years ago.

 

 

My concern is does the shock have to be removed from the top mount to replace bushings and are they available. Will I be able to reassemble with the load off the shock. Also I noticed an open port-threaded hole on the top right side of the shock? Rear of shock has compressor line and left side has dampener line attached.

 

 

Working on horn button presently and see nothing wrong internally but the horns get no voltage when switch pressed. The clutch master and slave cylinder I believe are also due for a rebuild. While speaking of clutch, are the friction plates interchangeable with a 2002 second gen as someone told me?

 

 

So far I have checked the valves and got lucky, all were within spec. New valve cover gaskets, won't say how long it took me to install the front one. New plugs which made it run much better. New rear tire, greased the drive shaft spines, bearings, new oring, deferential fluid, etc.

Forks seem fine for now but need new rotors on the front. Missed a great pair for 30.00 since I was asleep at the switch. Rear rotor was replaced.

 

 

I'm rushing to get as much done as I can since the cold weather is setting in and am working in an unheated detached garage.

Any help on these and upcoming problems are more than welcome.

 

Rear suspension will come apart without worrying about the shock top mount. You should add grease sirks when you take it apart. The bottom bolt for the shock will most likely show wear from what you discribed, and it's not available, so remove it and get a new one made. If the pivots have play, they will need to fixed or the rear wheel will want to wander. You'll need to take it apart to discover the issue, whether it's the bushings or pins, That business can get rusty in there without grease.

 

If I remember correctly the horn is always live, and when you press the switch it completes the circuit by completing the ground part.

[bongobobny]

Yes Carl, the horn is always hot via the "Signal" fuse with the brown wire. The ground comes via the pink wire from the horn switch. You can take a voltmeter and read the brown wire to ground and you should see 12 volts with the ignition on. If not check the Signal fuse, but that fuse knocks out a few other things as well, the anti dive solenoids, the neutral indicator, the Tach, the temperature gauge, the voltmeter, and the brake lights.

 

Try hoking the horn directly across the battery to see if it works. Once you get the battery wiring fixed up if it needs it (common issue is horn switch contacts going bad) then use the horn wires to trigger a relay that switches 12 volts directly from the battery to a nice Wolo Bad Boy air horn, you will be glad you did!!

 

Hmmmm, wonder if I have any of those collared rear shock bolts left, I used to have a couple, or did you get them from me Carl??

 

Not sure about the clutch parts but I do know the '86 up has the same design. I guess you could cross reference the part numbers...

[dusty roads]

Rear suspension will come apart without worrying about the shock top mount. You should add grease sirks when you take it apart. The bottom bolt for the shock will most likely show wear from what you discribed, and it's not available, so remove it and get a new one made. If the pivots have play, they will need to fixed or the rear wheel will want to wander. You'll need to take it apart to discover the issue, whether it's the bushings or pins, That business can get rusty in there without grease.

 

If I remember correctly the horn is always live, and when you press the switch it completes the circuit by completing the ground part.

 

 

 

Your advice is well taken and makes perfect sense that the whole pivot assy. should be redone properly including grease fittings. Hard to judge what the previous owner had and had not done without removing everything. Might have to wait till spring for that fix. If I have to machine parts it will take some time.

 

Made more sense once I had a good look last night. Was thinking of shock-spring preload as on a car and rushed to forum for advice before thinking or rather not thinking.

 

Advice is appreciated

[dusty roads]

Yes Carl, the horn is always hot via the "Signal" fuse with the brown wire. The ground comes via the pink wire from the horn switch. You can take a voltmeter and read the brown wire to ground and you should see 12 volts with the ignition on. If not check the Signal fuse, but that fuse knocks out a few other things as well, the anti dive solenoids, the neutral indicator, the Tach, the temperature gauge, the voltmeter, and the brake lights.

 

Try hoking the horn directly across the battery to see if it works. Once you get the battery wiring fixed up if it needs it (common issue is horn switch contacts going bad) then use the horn wires to trigger a relay that switches 12 volts directly from the battery to a nice Wolo Bad Boy air horn, you will be glad you did!!

 

Hmmmm, wonder if I have any of those collared rear shock bolts left, I used to have a couple, or did you get them from me Carl??

 

Not sure about the clutch parts but I do know the '86 up has the same design. I guess you could cross reference the part numbers...

 

Managed to get horn working last night. After fumbling with the switch and worrying about damaging something in the housing I turned to the patchwork of wires done over the years. Turned out to be a fused wire berried behind the battery...a simple inline fuse. 15 minutes, verses several hours of checking everything else. The old saying...keep it simple.

 

Since I am new to Ventures and don't know any owners except one...who happens to be named Carl, it's hard to source parts that I need and will need. As I get more familiar with what is needed the winter months will be the time to find parts.

 

As to clutch, I think both cylinders will need rebuild and not sure if it's a clutch plate issue but will cross reference for future knowledge.

 

Advice more than welcome

[bongobobny]

As far as the clutch slave cylinder, you may be best served buying as new one rather than rebuilding your old one. Chances are the cylinder area is corroded and pitted and will need honing, making the cylinder oversized, which may result in new seals not sealing as good as they should. Many of us have tried rebuilding with mixed success. New ones are around $50 US from what I remember. If you have issues with companies not shipping to Canada or wanting an arm and a leg for shipping, and you fear the fine US Canada customs loosing your part, well we can relay the part over to you via Carl/Bongo shade tree import system...

[dusty roads]

As far as the clutch slave cylinder, you may be best served buying as new one rather than rebuilding your old one. Chances are the cylinder area is corroded and pitted and will need honing, making the cylinder oversized, which may result in new seals not sealing as good as they should. Many of us have tried rebuilding with mixed success. New ones are around $50 US from what I remember. If you have issues with companies not shipping to Canada or wanting an arm and a leg for shipping, and you fear the fine US Canada customs loosing your part, well we can relay the part over to you via Carl/Bongo shade tree import system...

 

A new slave cyl. would be the way to go but have not seen any in line or have not searched long enough. Have a new Yamaha rebuild kit for the master which came with the bike.

 

There is not a real issue with clutch disengaging but I suspect a bit of slipping for the brief 5 minute ride I did before disassembled the bike. Noticed periodic odd drop of oil in the area of the slave which leads me to believe it's due for replacement. Have run the bike to hot in the garage about 3-4 times now checking things as I did repairs.

 

Nice to know there is a shade tree import system available and will notify if assistance is needed.

[bongobobny]

A bad slave will not make the clutch slip, it is energized when you pull the clutch lever. There is an issue with the master cylinder if the little relief orifice on the bottom of the reservoir is plugged, the hydraulic pressure does not get relieved so the slave does not completely disengage...

 

Yes, you could have a leak from the slave cylinder, but it could also be engine oil leaking from the stator area via the rubber plug that the stator wires exit through.

[paysaw]

HI Dusty. I am in Mississauga.I have a plethora of Venture parts in my shop you are welcome too.I have an 86 I am rebuilding as well. PM me and maybe I can help you with a part. Paysaw.

[Midicat]

Hi Dusty.

I'm in your town, Woodstock. Yes, I live here. Not just passing through. If you view my profile you will see that I ride an '85 VR. I don't have parts and I am a novice (better than peewee) at working on the bike. Shoot me a pm if you want. I might not have any answers but 2 scratching heads are better than one. :think:

 

Thomas

[dusty roads]

HI Dusty. I am in Mississauga.I have a plethora of Venture parts in my shop you are welcome too.I have an 86 I am rebuilding as well. PM me and maybe I can help you with a part. Paysaw.

 

Will be in touch since I need pars that i even know about yet. The deeper I dig the more problems I find.

Thanks paysaw

[dusty roads]

Hi Dusty.

I'm in your town, Woodstock. Yes, I live here. Not just passing through. If you view my profile you will see that I ride an '85 VR. I don't have parts and I am a novice (better than peewee) at working on the bike. Shoot me a pm if you want. I might not have any answers but 2 scratching heads are better than one. :think:

 

Thomas

 

I was sure there were other Venture owners locally I just have not run across any yet. Will send info.