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Posted

Hi there,

Today I went for a ride with no issues. I parked the bike for less than an hour. When I started it, I forgot the kickstand was down and when I released the clutch, the bike died. The bike would not start with the kickstand up and the bike didn't have power. I checked the main fuse and it was fine. I removed the kickstand wiring connector and grounded out the wires but nothing. There's power in Acc position but not when the key is on. Seems like a possible ground issue. Could this be a stator issue? I'm unsure how to test and new to this site.

Thank you for any helpful suggestions.

Posted

Welcome to the site. I bet you'll get more than $12 worth of info just on this one question.

First off check that you have power at the battery.

Then check the solenoid tucked in beside the battery on the left side. You should have power going to it, but not coming out of it.

There is also a main power wire, not a cable, coming off of the battery, usually has a jacket on it, and it has a rectangular box in it that contains the main fuse. Open it and check the main fuse, should be a spare in the box.

Check the fuse box to make sure you have power going through each fuse. Use the fuse holders for contact points, not the fuse ends, as it's common for there to be a disconnect between the fuse and it's clampy thing in the holder.

Report back.

Posted
Hi there,

Today I went for a ride with no issues. I parked the bike for less than an hour. When I started it, I forgot the kickstand was down and when I released the clutch, the bike died. The bike would not start with the kickstand up and the bike didn't have power. I checked the main fuse and it was fine. I removed the kickstand wiring connector and grounded out the wires but nothing. There's power in Acc position but not when the key is on. Seems like a possible ground issue. Could this be a stator issue? I'm unsure how to test and new to this site.

Thank you for any helpful suggestions.

 

Here is a Google Drive link to the 88-89 DU Wiring Diagrams Complete PDF. It has the Wiring, the Simplified and the Starting Circuits all in one. The PDF is a lot clearer than the screen shot below.

 

Here's the Starting Circuit Diagrams for your MC. They will shed a bunch of light of light on your issue.

 

Heather

 

screen shot 86-93 Starting circuit.jpg

Posted

Welcome to the site. I bet you'll get more than $12 worth of info just on this one question.

Now that's a fact.Did you accidentally hit the kill switch when all of this happened? You sure wouldn't be the first.

Posted
Welcome to the site. I bet you'll get more than $12 worth of info just on this one question.

Now that's a fact.Did you accidentally hit the kill switch when all of this happened? You sure wouldn't be the first.

 

 

Always check the kill switch when the bike wont start. I dont know how many time it just jumps there on its own.. :doh:

 

Rick F.

Posted
Oh ya,,, sometimes the kill switch will toggle on it's own,,, and sometimes with the help of friends eh?

 

ESPECAILLY IN THAT SITUATION!!!:amen:

 

Bike stalls as you lift foot and anticipate moving. a little 2" drop before you recover and panic sets in!! First thing we all do is mash the starter button to restart (all of us know that more power gets you out of a situation so we grab and go then look back and evaluate). When we mash that starter and instinctively twist the throttle many of us have done it. Hit the kill switch by mistake and then sit there for 20 minutes trying to figure out what went wrong.

Posted

Thanks for the replies. I'm quite certain about the kill switch not being the issue. My clues are that there is power in Acc position but none in On position. Battery is charged. Any clues to testing the stator and rectifier?

Thank you

Posted
Thanks for the replies. I'm quite certain about the kill switch not being the issue. My clues are that there is power in Acc position but none in On position. Battery is charged. Any clues to testing the stator and rectifier?

Thank you

 

Where exactly do you have power in Acc and where do you not have power in the on position? Add a bit of clarity for me and and I'll look over the diagrams for you. It shouldn't be too hard to figure it out.

 

YG

Posted

I put a test light on the battery terminals. It lights up when ignition off. Light is dimmer on Acc and goes off when ignition On.

Thanks

Posted (edited)
I put a test light on the battery terminals. It lights up when ignition off. Light is dimmer on Acc and goes off when ignition On.

Thanks

 

It sounds like a short to ground.

  1. Remove all of the fuses from the fuse block. You probably still have the original glass fuses. There will be 5 of them. This will isolate the entire electrical system except the few items that do not route through the fuse block... Class, Emergency flasher
  2. Turn key to on and test across the Battery Posts. Note the result. It should be similar to the result in ACC.
  3. Reinsert ONE fuse, (any one), turn key to ON and test across the Battery Posts and note the result.
  4. Remove that fuse and repeat with each fuse.

 

This should help determine the circuit and tell us where look.

 

YG

Edited by yamagrl
add
Posted

Hmmmm, voltmeter readings would be more helpful. the way you describe it sounds like a bad battery, Acc puts small load dimming the light bulb, On position puts a big load on battery, i.e. lights, etc draining the battery waaaay down. Did you try charging the battery?? Try that and take the battery to a local auto parts store, etc and get the battery load tested. Maybe your charging system crapped the bed.

 

If you can read schematics, here ya go...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf

Posted
Hmmmm, voltmeter readings would be more helpful. the way you describe it sounds like a bad battery, Acc puts small load dimming the light bulb, On position puts a big load on battery, i.e. lights, etc draining the battery waaaay down. Did you try charging the battery?? Try that and take the battery to a local auto parts store, etc and get the battery load tested. Maybe your charging system crapped the bed.

 

If you can read schematics, here ya go...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf

 

Thanks Bob. I totally missed that obvious first step. Must've been a senior moment. I was ass-u-ming... you know what that means!

Posted

I was going to say "No problem" but see RandyA's thread in the Watering hole. Actually Heather, your assumptions also have merit too! It just seems like, the way he described it with the light bulb, it make sense for a weak battery, only because he said it dimmed a little on Acc setting then went dead on "ON"

Posted

I have the battery on a tender but I'll get a new battery. Pulled all five fuses. Managed to put the signal and acc fuses in. The other three fuses cause a short and lose power to battery.

Posted
I have the battery on a tender but I'll get a new battery. Pulled all five fuses. Managed to put the signal and acc fuses in. The other three fuses cause a short and lose power to battery.

 

I ordered a battery but I have a feeling it's time for some new electrical components: Stator and Rectifier perhaps? Now I need to find a guide to inspecting and replacing. I'll start by removing the plastics.

Found this on ebay. Seems like a decent price. Any objections?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291368977767?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks for the knowledgeable support and assistance.

Posted

You probably should not start replacing stuff before you know exactly what is wrong. A battery that will not hold a load does not automatically mean you need a R/R or stator. Search for the charging system test sequence or download the e-version of the maintenance manual.

Posted

Go here and download the service manual for the 1300 VR. http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm

There are number section in the back for testing electrical components to verify if they are good or not.

Looking at the prices for that ebay stator and regulator, seems a little cheap in price and maybe some China junk.

Test your components first and see if they really need replacing but I would look into replacing your fuse block with a more modern spade fuse block as a lot of us have done here to our VRs. You might just need to clean the connectors as the bike is 28 years old.

Good luck

Rick F.

Posted

Thanks for the assistance. I was hoping I'd get a change this kind of answer as I'm more of a re and re backyard mechanic. I guess I better start troubleshooting this electrical puzzle.

Posted

You mentioned that you have a battery on order. Make sure to have a good battery that will hold a charge and then we can start to troubleshoot/trace out circuits.

Posted (edited)

The rectifier would not likely cause the differing test light results based on the key position because the Red wire going to the R/R is an "ALWAYS HOT" wire.

Edited by yamagrl
Posted

When I was having issues I went and bought me a VoltMeter. It has come in really handy Since I have gotten it Mine also has a Temp Guage in it and something I can shoot at hot wires in my outlets to see what voltage they are pulling I think I paid like $40 for it at Wal*Fart. Only down side it claims to have a work light which is more like a mood light.:rotf:

Posted

New battery is in. Amp meter is 14 off, 13.9 acc, 13.7 on. Good call on dead battery.

Unfortunately, waiting for a new stator as the old one is burnt. That could explain why the battery died. I will update when all back together. Thanks

20161020_143316.jpg

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