ragtop69gs Posted October 5, 2016 Author #26 Posted October 5, 2016 OK you're not gonna like this, but we need to determine if the voltage for the backlight is coming from the master unit or the wiring harness, this involves splitting the fairing. There is a multi pin connector, like with 17 wires coming in it that connects to the main audio unit. Disconnect that and see if the light goes out. That will eliminate 4 out of the 6 wires going to the controller. There are two more wires, the L/G and P/B wires that go through another connector en route to the master unit... You sure have a toughie there buddy!! When your key is off, only voltage going to the memory backup should be there, which I think/ass u me goes through the odometer fuse I was looking at earlier. I guess pulling that fuse may give us a clue IF the light goes out with it pulled and the keys in your pocket... OK you're not gonna like this, but we need to determine if the voltage for the backlight is coming from the master unit or the wiring harness, this involves splitting the fairing. There is a multi pin connector, like with 17 wires coming in it that connects to the main audio unit. Disconnect that and see if the light goes out. YES. That will eliminate 4 out of the 6 wires going to the controller. There are two more wires, key off the L/G 0.0vdc and P/B 0.0vdc wires that go through another connector en route to the master unit... You sure have a toughie there buddy!! When your key is off, only voltage going to the memory backup should be there, which I think/ass u me goes through the odometer fuse I was looking at earlier. I guess pulling that fuse may give us a clue IF the light goes out with it pulled and the keys in your pocket... While the key is off, checking all pins of 18 pin connector in fairing the only hot pins are #7 12.2vdc R/G wire and pin#18 11.2vdc Br/w wire.
yamagrl Posted October 5, 2016 #27 Posted October 5, 2016 While the key is off, checking all pins of 18 pin connector in fairing the only hot pins are #7 12.2vdc R/G wire and pin#18 11.2vdc Br/w wire. Br/W should not be hot with the switch off. That of course could be caused by bad switch or a short.
ragtop69gs Posted October 5, 2016 Author #28 Posted October 5, 2016 OK after that, the next step will be to follow the cable from the controller into the fairing and disconnecting the connector. Then with a voltmeter to ground find out which pin on the connector that the connector from the controller plugs into has the 12 volts on it and what color wire it is. According to the wiring diagram here on site the colors are Black (ground), Green/Yellow, White/Yellow, Pink/Black, and Blue/Green. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf Almost all the pins have some voltage rangigng from 4.2 to 10.7 vdc
bongobobny Posted October 5, 2016 #29 Posted October 5, 2016 While the key is off, checking all pins of 18 pin connector in fairing the only hot pins are #7 12.2vdc R/G wire and pin#18 11.2vdc Br/w wire. OK there should NOT be 12 volts on the Brown and White wire with the key off!!! Soooo, we need to determine if the voltage is coming from the Main module, or maybe feeding back from something on either the front acc jack (The cigarette lighter) or the rear aux plug under the driver seat. Sooo, pull the "audio" fuse on fuse block 1, a 10 A fuse. That's the fuse box that's in the front lower fairing, and by the looks of the rather poor picture in the owner's manual it sets perpendicular to the rest of the fuses, and from what I remember is in it's own separate holder from what I remember from about 5 years ago... Anyway, with the audio fuse removed check again and see if the 12 volts disappeared from that wire or is it still there with the key off. This is now starting to make sense IF 12 volts disappears from the Brown/White wire. If this is the case we start looking at the accessory plugs and see if there is 12 volts appearing on them WITH the audio fuse pulled and the key off! If there is, then pull both Aux fuses, on the same fuse box 1, and see if there is 12 volts on one side of the fuse holders with the key off. If so, then something has gone amiss with the ignition switch in a way I've never heard of before... If there is still 12 volts on the Brown/White wire with the audio fuse pulled then it is probably coming from the Master Control Unit, swapping it out will confirm this. Now we're getting somewhere!!!
bongobobny Posted October 5, 2016 #30 Posted October 5, 2016 Almost all the pins have some voltage rangigng from 4.2 to 10.7 vdc I am assuming you are seeing these voltages with the radio operational?? If so then that is normal. Let's work on the above post first...
ragtop69gs Posted October 5, 2016 Author #31 Posted October 5, 2016 Let me ask this, I had removed the battery when I did the stator, what if I mixed up one of the add-on wires for misc. stuff and hooked one of my ground wires to the positive side by mistake? would doing that always cause a fuse to blow or is it possible I'm backfeeding power somewhere?
Flyinfool Posted October 5, 2016 #32 Posted October 5, 2016 Depending on exactly what it was the you hooked up backwards the effect could range from nothing happens to wires melting or anything in between. Yes back feeding something is a real possibility.
ragtop69gs Posted October 5, 2016 Author #33 Posted October 5, 2016 Depending on exactly what it was the you hooked up backwards the effect could range from nothing happens to wires melting or anything in between. Yes back feeding something is a real possibility. Guess my next step when I get home is to remove all the extras from the battery and see if it makes a difference. Only the wires going to the + post are connected, none of the - are
bongobobny Posted October 5, 2016 #34 Posted October 5, 2016 I concur with Jeff, it depends on what it is and what the + side is hooked up to. Generally if your add on device has both it's + and - both hooked together on the + side, absolutely nothing would happen and the device would not do anything; it would not have a complete path for electricity to flow. You could disconnect all your add on's and see if it's fixed. Otherwise do what I suggested with the Audio fuse and the Accessory fuses. When you have the fuses out, there should be no voltage at all on either terminal of the fuse holder with key off, and only on one side of each fuse position, with fuses removed, with key on...
yamagrl Posted October 5, 2016 #35 Posted October 5, 2016 Let me ask this, I had removed the battery when I did the stator, what if I mixed up one of the add-on wires for misc. stuff and hooked one of my ground wires to the positive side by mistake? would doing that always cause a fuse to blow or is it possible I'm backfeeding power somewhere? I think if you something hooked up backwards you would observe some very strange symptoms. The horn would suck, the radio would listen and the lights would cast shadows!
ragtop69gs Posted October 6, 2016 Author #36 Posted October 6, 2016 I beg forgiveness from all who have been following this thread. I disconnected all the add on's I had going to the battery and my radio problem is no longer present! So one of the wires was back feeding thru the system and causing all this grief :bang head: Thank you to Bongobobny, Puc and Yamagirl for all your help, if it's any consolation I did learn a few things about hunting down electrical gremlins. I owe you all a :ice_thy-vi101212101and a:beer:
ragtop69gs Posted October 6, 2016 Author #38 Posted October 6, 2016 I was going to suggest that Next!!! I heard you thinking about it Dan, that's where I got the idea
ragtop69gs Posted October 6, 2016 Author #41 Posted October 6, 2016 Most likely culprit is the power port wiring to the front fairing. I have a relay feeding battery voltage to that port.
Kretz Posted October 6, 2016 #42 Posted October 6, 2016 Doesn't it feel good when you crack a problem, congrats to all who helped! (I'd put a great big clappin' smiley here... if I knew how) lol
ragtop69gs Posted October 6, 2016 Author #43 Posted October 6, 2016 I think what was happening was since I had the neg hooked to the positive side of the battery without the other wire hooked up it was pushing voltage backwards thru the radio causing those weird symptoms. The mixed wires are to feed the power port in the fairing with more power than the original wiring that only carried 5 amps. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
cowpuc Posted October 6, 2016 #44 Posted October 6, 2016 I think what was happening was since I had the neg hooked to the positive side of the battery without the other wire hooked up it was pushing voltage backwards thru the radio causing those weird symptoms. The mixed wires are to feed the power port in the fairing with more power than the original wiring that only carried 5 amps. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk and here I thought you was just bringing some good ol fashioned excitement into our "Electronics 101" classroom!! Glad you figured it out Raggy!!!
bongobobny Posted October 6, 2016 #45 Posted October 6, 2016 Who knows?!!? Whatever, it's fixed, next chapter...
yamagrl Posted October 6, 2016 #46 Posted October 6, 2016 Like I said... I think if you something hooked up backwards you would observe some very strange symptoms. The horn would suck, the radio would listen and the lights would cast shadows!
cowpuc Posted October 7, 2016 #47 Posted October 7, 2016 Like I said... I think if you something hooked up backwards you would observe some very strange symptoms. The horn would suck, the radio would listen and the lights would cast shadows! You also brought the following for show n tell time in the classroom Yamagrl (thought we backrow 's of the class couldnt see it didnt cha young lady:big-grin-emoticon:) = !!! Hokey spamokey I LOVE this place!! If high school would have been this much fun I would actually went :rotf: Hey Guys, may I chime in here... I think Bob may be onto something. As I read through the thread and looked at the Wiring Diagram and the Simplified Diagram I kept coming back to maybe something going haywire in the Master Control Unit. I have no clue as to the relationship of the starting circuit to the radio via the L/W. From a strictly conceptual stand point ...looking at the screenshot of the simplified it seems like when the start switch is bumped something in the MCU is improperly energized and remains so until the current is interrupted. That doesn't seem right. The R/G is always hot but is supposed to have a very limited function, at least when the key is off. When the starter switch is tapped the L/W energizes something in there causing the radio to get power from the R/G. It kinda has to be. Because the Br/W is the main power from the Audio fuse and is only hot when the key is ON or on ACC. it would be interesting to see what happens if another MCU were plugged in. YG http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=107580
yamagrl Posted October 7, 2016 #48 Posted October 7, 2016 You also brought the following for show n tell time in the classroom Yamagrl (thought we backrow 's of the class couldnt see it didnt cha young lady:big-grin-emoticon:) = !!! Hokey spamokey I LOVE this place!! If high school would have been this much fun I would actually went :rotf: Actually, I originally snuck that in as a joke. I had no idea it would turn out to be true. I was really pouring over the diagrams and scratching muh head. I was really befuddled and bamboozled! I been keepin' an eye on you "back of the classroom guys"!
ragtop69gs Posted October 7, 2016 Author #49 Posted October 7, 2016 Got the bike out for a ride yesterday, I think all these new VOLTS have added about 50HP to my ride Everything is working good, but I have some popping from the left pipe now, must have ruined one or two exhaust gaskets, they'll wait till the to get fixed.
ragtop69gs Posted October 7, 2016 Author #50 Posted October 7, 2016 The horn would suck' date=' the radio would listen and the lights would cast shadows! [/b'] I was taught in science class that contrary to common beliefs light bulbs do not emit light, they absorb darkness.
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