Picture of axis holder broken behind stator cover, is it repairable ?

[Arxvz1200]

right axis holder is broken. Has anyone repaired one ?

 

I'm about let go of this bike. My first venture, got it 2 yrs ago, Rode it then for 5 minutes just to notice that it wasn't running well, 2nd gear problem and brake problems, carb problems. It's been one those projects waiting for its' time.

 

The time had come this summer

Had another gearbox put in, adjusted the valves, cleaned the carbs, whole lot gaskets and hoses, fixed broken fairing , and much more...

 

Now this, has anyone had the same problem before.

 

Thanks for help,

Anssi

[Venturous Randy]

I'm afraid you have a parts bike, at best.

Randy

[MiCarl]

I have to agree with Randy.

 

I can see where if you completely disassembled the engine, had a first rate machinist locate the hole, have it welded up, then have the machinist re-create the hole it might be good enough. You'd be way better off chasing up another engine.

[Flyinfool]

Yup what MiCarl said is the best way to fix it.

 

BUT

 

Before I would give up on it, or spend a bunch of cash, I would try to fix it myself. You certainly can not make it any worse than it is. worst case you still would need to find an engine or as Randy said, have a parts bike.

 

It would be the same process though, take some real good measurements of the hole location, weld it up and drill and ream a new hole as close as possible to the same location. You could attempt this while the engine is still in the bike. All the other options would require pulling the engine.

 

The good news is that this is for an idler gear for the starter, it is not spinning while the bike is running, it is only spinning when the starter is active. So even if you are off a little bit on the location it will likely last a long time. The gears have fairly big teeth so they can handle a small misalignment.

 

Did you find the missing piece? or did it find its way into the bottom of the engine? If it made its way into the engine you may have to drop the oil pan to find it unless you have an aluminum magnet .

 

Good luck in which ever way you go, and let us know what happens.

[cowpuc]

I am right there with Fool on this one Annsi - you got way to much time and effort into the project to not risk tossing some creative fix at it before you give up.. I would leave the motor in the scoot as it is - cover all parts and pieces so no grind dust could get in - take my dremel and "V" cut the outer edges of case break and the broken piece to prepare for the Tig repair. I would be careful to leave plenty of original broken edge too though so I had something to position the broken piece into for alignment purposes. I would then find a piece of round stock the exact size of the shaft that fits into the hole - Mic the shaft!! It wouldnt hurt to use brass for an alignment pin but steel will work fine.. Put the broken piece back in after weld prep - clamp it into place across the piece and case protusion so the area to be welded is between the clamp pads.. Tighten up the clamp just enough to hold the pieces together. Slip the dowel pin into the hole and tighten down the clamp. Leave the pin in and tack weld the part starting at the rear of the piece. Use short butt welds to avoid over heating the case - that area appears to have ample room for cooling but dont take to many chances. Get all done, let it cool, pull the dowel and she should be good to go.. DEFINITELY worth a shot IMHO..

[Arxvz1200]

thanks for replies.

 

Now i'm after a big powerdrill to crank the engine from the big flywheel bolt without starter (or maybe I find the biggest hill by the waterfront and push start all way the down. If it's not running by the shore I let go and let it swim:) That's gonna be fun.

 

I address the idle gear issue if/when I get it running well enough.

 

I've had many simpler 80's bikes xj900, cb750, z1100, gs750, gs1100 etc.. been pretty confident and succesful but this xvz1200 seems to challenge me.

 

I let u know what happens. Not giving up without a fight.

 

Best,

Anssi

[WildBill1]

If you don't go the welding route might try liquid steel that is if you have the missing piece. Looks like there is plenty of area around the break to build it up worth a try.

[bongobobny]

Yes, maybe JB Weld would work!

[Flyinfool]

If you don't go the welding route might try liquid steel that is if you have the missing piece. Looks like there is plenty of area around the break to build it up worth a try.

 

Yes, maybe JB Weld would work!

 

I have never used Liquid Steel so I am not familiar with its properties. It might work in this aplication.

 

This is another idea. It is always dangerous when I have ideas......

 

Clean it to within an inch of its life to be sure there is NO oil left on any surface of the boss inside and out.

 

Use JB WELD to attach the broken piece back where it goes and let cure for 24 hours.

 

Then use a coarse wire brush in a drill to clean the outside of the boss down to bare metal and roughen it up real good.

 

Apply a good coat of JB Weld to the outside of the boss, and while wet, wrap it tightly with some thin bare steel wire (around 0.032 inch or 0.75mm) over the entire length of the boss. Smear some more JB weld before the original coat is set to be sure the wire is fully encapsulated. It might be easier to wrap the wire from the end toward the block so that the wire will stay in place as the OD of the boss gets bigger as you near the block.

 

This might just end up stronger than new.

 

Once you get this done make sure that the shaft still spins freely in the hole by hand.

 

And do not try to run the starter with the cover off, the unsupported idler gears will break things again.

 

I am just letting my poor little brain run amuck here.....

Edited September 14, 2016 by Flyinfool
Added SAE metric clarification

[snyper316]

Yes, maybe JB Weld would work!

 

If you don't go the welding route might try liquid steel that is if you have the missing piece. Looks like there is plenty of area around the break to build it up worth a try.

 

As I look at this I can't help but wonder... This is just a shot in the dark here but.... What I would try would be some how find a hose clamp to fit around that and use the Jb weld.. to fill in. and around the clamp. I don't Know what kind of clearances you have there. So this is just a thought to give it some extra support. I Have seen aluminum repair on something like this.. But just don't know how the repair was done. What about filling this hole in with led that you use for sinkers? I would definatley try it... I just would not give up on this bike. I am beginning to wonder if that's why I keep trying with my Bike over and over.. Because it is a challenge for me and I know the end result will be a damn good bike. I would also maybe call a aluminum block repair shop and see if they will devoulge any information with you.. just my thoughts

[syscrusher]

Cowpuc gave a detailed account of the proper way to make the repair but there is one snag in that plan which is that you need a TIG welder or can take the bike to someone who does. Flying Fool and Snyper offer ways to get around the welder but the downsides in those cases is that the bonding agent could loosen (break down) and allow the added material to become free in the engine.

 

I have a third approach that is a modification of Puc's repair advice that relies on a special alloy rod and technique you could term as aluminum soldering. This can be done with a propane torch at a temperature that is a little lower than the melting point of aluminum and so avoids much of the difficulty and special care associated with aluminum welding. The rod material melts over 700 degrees F and I guarantee you that this part of the engine will never come close to that temperature unless something is very wrong with your engine. There are only a handful of motor oils with a flash point over 500F, so heaven help you if these parts of your engine are getting that hot. The spark plug of my DR650 gets to 450F at most and that's the hottest spot other than the exhaust. You can use the rod to buildup the thickness of your broken piece as well, but I would otherwise do exactly as Cowpuc outlined for you. I have used this rod myself before a few times and it has held up amazingly well, although my welds suffer only the Nebraska climate from -20F to 110F. The process was super easy too. You do have to clean the aluminum parts very well and shine them a little with a stainless steel brush - don't use any other metals for that part. I think acetone would be a good choice for cleaning and degreasing the pieces. Make sure it has all evaporated (quick) before breaking out the torch. Clean the surrounding oil away and use shielding to prevent any fire risk. Remember that a propane torch does get hot enough to melt aluminum so don't get close to that point but you do need to heat the aluminum and let the hot aluminum melt the rod. Don't melt the rod with the torch directly, but once the aluminum is melting the rod you can move the puddle by moving the torch, just like soldering, etc. These parts must not be allowed to move or even jiggle a little before cooling. Let it cool in the air, don't douse with water, oil, etc.

 

Alumaweld info can be found here:

 

http://www.alumiweld.com/

 

And Harbor Freight tools sells about the quantity you'll need for about half:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html

[snyper316]

 

Alumaweld info can be found here:

 

http://www.alumiweld.com/

 

And Harbor Freight tools sells about the quantity you'll need for about half:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html

 

 

That almost has to be it on the repairs I have seen. Although the ones I seen were just either filler or to hold a bolt in.

[Flyinfool]

If you are going to go the aluminum solder route, I would get some Temperature Indicating Paint. This is a USA source but I am sure there is an equivalent over there.

Since you need 700°F to work the solder, and aluminum melts at 1100°F, this paint will show when you have reached 900°F.

Aluminum gives no warning before it melts and you have a gaping hole with no chance of repair. This paint will give you that warning that you are getting to hot.

 

There is a bunch of technique in using that aluminum solder, find some scrap aluminum to practice on to get a feel for it before attacking the bike. The very experienced woman in the videos makes it look so easy............. just like a pro at anything can make it look easy.

[Dragonslayer]

A few years back I replaced the engine on my 87 rather then do valve adjustment. I found a low mileage engine on eBay with shipping I spent $300. At the time the replacement seemed easier than the fix. I may have had some other things going on with the old.engine. The engine swap out wasn't bad. As I recall the hardest part was aligning the final drive.

[syscrusher]

If you are going to go the aluminum solder route, I would get some Temperature Indicating Paint. This is a USA source but I am sure there is an equivalent over there.

Since you need 700°F to work the solder, and aluminum melts at 1100°F, this paint will show when you have reached 900°F.

Aluminum gives no warning before it melts and you have a gaping hole with no chance of repair. This paint will give you that warning that you are getting to hot.

 

There is a bunch of technique in using that aluminum solder, find some scrap aluminum to practice on to get a feel for it before attacking the bike. The very experienced woman in the videos makes it look so easy............. just like a pro at anything can make it look easy.

 

Thanks for that suggestion. Does the temp indicating paint contaminate the weld area? I suppose it needs to be used in a spot that we don't actually expect to be involved in the repair or build-up? I didn't know that temp indicating paint exists but it's true that the oxide layers can actually make it seem as though the aluminum hasn't melted when in fact it has. It can look intact until you touch a rod to it. It's not as difficult as it seems though with these rods but with every new skill it is recommended to try it out using scrap before using the skill to fix something you want to keep.

 

Remember as well that ordinary cheap toothpaste is a good substitute for heat shielding paste, probably appropriate for this repair. You'll need to heat the surrounding aluminum a little to prevent deforming the piece but there is a huge advantage built in because the temperature difference will be a little less than for actual welding.

[Flyinfool]

Thanks for that suggestion. Does the temp indicating paint contaminate the weld area? I suppose it needs to be used in a spot that we don't actually expect to be involved in the repair or build-up? I didn't know that temp indicating paint exists but it's true that the oxide layers can actually make it seem as though the aluminum hasn't melted when in fact it has. It can look intact until you touch a rod to it. It's not as difficult as it seems though with these rods but with every new skill it is recommended to try it out using scrap before using the skill to fix something you want to keep.

 

Remember as well that ordinary cheap toothpaste is a good substitute for heat shielding paste, probably appropriate for this repair. You'll need to heat the surrounding aluminum a little to prevent deforming the piece but there is a huge advantage built in because the temperature difference will be a little less than for actual welding.

 

You do NOT want to apply the Temp paint on the weld joint area, just near it. It WILL contaminate the joint if it is in the joint. Next to the joint is no problem.

[cowpuc]

thanks for replies.

 

Now i'm after a big powerdrill to crank the engine from the big flywheel bolt without starter (or maybe I find the biggest hill by the waterfront and push start all way the down. If it's not running by the shore I let go and let it swim:) That's gonna be fun.

 

I address the idle gear issue if/when I get it running well enough.

 

I've had many simpler 80's bikes xj900, cb750, z1100, gs750, gs1100 etc.. been pretty confident and succesful but this xvz1200 seems to challenge me.

 

I let u know what happens. Not giving up without a fight.

 

Best,

Anssi

 

This is my kind of thread Anssi - I LOVE the gearheaded you got going on here - like everyone else who has responded - sort of a quick picture of the story of my life = SO GLAD YOU AINT GIVIN UP WITHOUT A FIGHT BROTHER - GIVE THAT 1ST GEN ALL THE POSSIBILITY OF ROLLING ONE MORE MILE:happy65:..

 

Drill motor,, hmmm ,,,,, did some playing around with big engine ice and hill climb scoots in years past that had to be bump started with a "cart" because of the possiblity of a back firing engine twisting a great big drill motor backwards and dislocating a shoulder or breaking a wrist.. Think it had something to do with one of those laws of physics = "when something abruptly changes direction, what ever is holding on to it better be ready for the equal and opposite other direction change" - or something like that..

 

Times like these sure make me miss the old kick starter days I tell ya brother!!

 

 

If you don't go the welding route might try liquid steel that is if you have the missing piece. Looks like there is plenty of area around the break to build it up worth a try.

 

Yes, maybe JB Weld would work!

 

I have never used Liquid Steel so I am not familiar with its properties. It might work in this aplication.

 

This is another idea. It is always dangerous when I have ideas......

 

Clean it to within an inch of its life to be sure there is NO oil left on any surface of the boss inside and out.

 

Use JB WELD to attach the broken piece back where it goes and let cure for 24 hours.

 

Then use a coarse wire brush in a drill to clean the outside of the boss down to bare metal and roughen it up real good.

 

Apply a good coat of JB Weld to the outside of the boss, and while wet, wrap it tightly with some thin bare steel wire (around 0.032 inch or 0.75mm) over the entire length of the boss. Smear some more JB weld before the original coat is set to be sure the wire is fully encapsulated. It might be easier to wrap the wire from the end toward the block so that the wire will stay in place as the OD of the boss gets bigger as you near the block.

 

This might just end up stronger than new.

 

Once you get this done make sure that the shaft still spins freely in the hole by hand.

 

And do not try to run the starter with the cover off, the unsupported idler gears will break things again.

 

I am just letting my poor little brain run amuck here.....

 

As I look at this I can't help but wonder... This is just a shot in the dark here but.... What I would try would be some how find a hose clamp to fit around that and use the Jb weld.. to fill in. and around the clamp. I don't Know what kind of clearances you have there. So this is just a thought to give it some extra support. I Have seen aluminum repair on something like this.. But just don't know how the repair was done. What about filling this hole in with led that you use for sinkers? I would definatley try it... I just would not give up on this bike. I am beginning to wonder if that's why I keep trying with my Bike over and over.. Because it is a challenge for me and I know the end result will be a damn good bike. I would also maybe call a aluminum block repair shop and see if they will devoulge any information with you.. just my thoughts

 

Personally I have never put much faith in the whole liquid steel thing when it came to area's requiring supporting strength dealing with pressure - patching a hole in a case that does nothing but contain fluid = stuff seemed to work pretty good but just not sure about how much I would personally trust the stuff to hold much.. Looking at the broken journal in the picture,,, ,,, it does almost look like someone tryed to roll the engine over without the outside cover journal support for that idler gear and that the idler gear simply pushed the inner journal apart when it tryed to roll up the engine - Anssi,, if this is NOT how that broken journal came to be - it would be well worth your time to investigate what exactly caused the breakage - you may have bigger issues (valve train out of time, stuck rod, loose bolt causing the drive train to abruptly lock up) here:detective:. Bottom line, the postition of that break is, IMHO, shows a weak spot in the starter gear train - sort of acting like a "shear pin" on a drive shaft.

All that said - looking at the break itself and seeing as it left about 180 degrees of supporting journal still on the case leave me to think it will really need much more support that liquid steel could give it. I may be TOTALLY off on that though (as usual) as it does appear that there is a fair amount of depth left for the shaft to set down into the case so possibly the broken part was snapped as the shaft moved outwardly and pressure was applied to the journal at it weakest area? If this is the "Case" (no pun intended) then by all mean - I TOTALLY agree with gluing the busted piece back in - wrapping it with wire or a small clamp - and give it a shot.. If you do this though - you might want to clean the area up really well and prep the area like you are going to want to weld it (grind a small "V" along the edges - but leave 1/2 the edge as it broke for alignment purposes) - dont try to use JB Weld or Liquid Steel as the glue for the intitial fitment - that stuff is WAY to thick and it will fill all the small high spots in the break you are gonna want to use for proper fitment. Instead - use Super Glue or any other thin running commercial adhesive to get the first fit so it is perfect. Let it set up real good - then do your thing with the JB Weld..

,, just remembered something,,, another TRUE TO LIFE PUC STORY = back in the 90's I had a neighbor who built a frame for a Mini Bike using JB Weld cause he didnt know how to weld.. Joints looked AWESOME and WOW did they paint up pretty!! Should of seen the look on his face the first time he pulled the recoil on the little 3 horse motor :rotfl::rotfl:

 

If it ends up being that you HAVE to have that broken area for support and you simply dont wanna attempt welding,, wonder if Super Gluing the piece back in and then carefully chasing a set of threads over the journal - then screwing a nut over it - tighten it down and stake it on the unbroken journal half so the nut could not back off

 

Cowpuc gave a detailed account of the proper way to make the repair but there is one snag in that plan which is that you need a TIG welder or can take the bike to someone who does. Flying Fool and Snyper offer ways to get around the welder but the downsides in those cases is that the bonding agent could loosen (break down) and allow the added material to become free in the engine.

 

I have a third approach that is a modification of Puc's repair advice that relies on a special alloy rod and technique you could term as aluminum soldering. This can be done with a propane torch at a temperature that is a little lower than the melting point of aluminum and so avoids much of the difficulty and special care associated with aluminum welding. The rod material melts over 700 degrees F and I guarantee you that this part of the engine will never come close to that temperature unless something is very wrong with your engine. There are only a handful of motor oils with a flash point over 500F, so heaven help you if these parts of your engine are getting that hot. The spark plug of my DR650 gets to 450F at most and that's the hottest spot other than the exhaust. You can use the rod to buildup the thickness of your broken piece as well, but I would otherwise do exactly as Cowpuc outlined for you. I have used this rod myself before a few times and it has held up amazingly well, although my welds suffer only the Nebraska climate from -20F to 110F. The process was super easy too. You do have to clean the aluminum parts very well and shine them a little with a stainless steel brush - don't use any other metals for that part. I think acetone would be a good choice for cleaning and degreasing the pieces. Make sure it has all evaporated (quick) before breaking out the torch. Clean the surrounding oil away and use shielding to prevent any fire risk. Remember that a propane torch does get hot enough to melt aluminum so don't get close to that point but you do need to heat the aluminum and let the hot aluminum melt the rod. Don't melt the rod with the torch directly, but once the aluminum is melting the rod you can move the puddle by moving the torch, just like soldering, etc. These parts must not be allowed to move or even jiggle a little before cooling. Let it cool in the air, don't douse with water, oil, etc.

 

Alumaweld info can be found here:

 

http://www.alumiweld.com/

 

And Harbor Freight tools sells about the quantity you'll need for about half:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html

 

Have played with this stuff a little - works pretty dog gone good I tell ya!! Does take some practice (aluminum is wierd stuff - not all created equal - if your gonna practice, try to find a junk Yamaha case to practice on) but not bad.. Got a hunch Tiggin would be somewhat friendlier to rubber seals and case warpage/potential cracking as a LOT less over all heat is needed - thinking electrical fusion heat compared to melting temps (wait a minute - heats heat aint it - go ahead, call ol Puc a bonehead )

 

If you are going to go the aluminum solder route, I would get some Temperature Indicating Paint. This is a USA source but I am sure there is an equivalent over there.

Since you need 700°F to work the solder, and aluminum melts at 1100°F, this paint will show when you have reached 900°F.

Aluminum gives no warning before it melts and you have a gaping hole with no chance of repair. This paint will give you that warning that you are getting to hot.

 

There is a bunch of technique in using that aluminum solder, find some scrap aluminum to practice on to get a feel for it before attacking the bike. The very experienced woman in the videos makes it look so easy............. just like a pro at anything can make it look easy.

 

Thanks for that suggestion. Does the temp indicating paint contaminate the weld area? I suppose it needs to be used in a spot that we don't actually expect to be involved in the repair or build-up? I didn't know that temp indicating paint exists but it's true that the oxide layers can actually make it seem as though the aluminum hasn't melted when in fact it has. It can look intact until you touch a rod to it. It's not as difficult as it seems though with these rods but with every new skill it is recommended to try it out using scrap before using the skill to fix something you want to keep.

 

Remember as well that ordinary cheap toothpaste is a good substitute for heat shielding paste, probably appropriate for this repair. You'll need to heat the surrounding aluminum a little to prevent deforming the piece but there is a huge advantage built in because the temperature difference will be a little less than for actual welding.

 

You do NOT want to apply the Temp paint on the weld joint area, just near it. It WILL contaminate the joint if it is in the joint. Next to the joint is no problem.

 

You guys are probably talking wayyyy farther into modern gearhead times than my experience is aware of but, back when I was Tiggin Power House steam pipe we used to use "Temp Stik" a lot! Came in a variety of temp setting, looked like a crayon and acted like one too = it would melt at a given temp. I used to draw cool little pictures of Choppers (some even with women on em - dont tell Tip ) and stuff on these great big 18 inch Tubes (the little stuff = all you could do was make a mark) - heat it carefully with a Rose Bud and watch my Crayola art melt before my eyes as the heat chased all the moisture out so my welds had no perosity... Might check at weld shop for Temp Stik - cheap and easy to use!! Like the paint Jeff is suggesting - dont use where your gonna weld..

 

THIS IS A RIOT!!!:beer::beer:

[snyper316]

Wow is there anything you didn't cover @cowpuc I'm guessing your feeling lots better.. hey take a gander at my carb question @cowpuc.. kind of same issue but... Nothing broke just a little bent.. but I gotta say you remind alot of a friend of mine. My guess you two prolly about same age. But he can be crack up and when he was working that brain of his o boy watch out.. speaking of which I need to get over to Illinois to see him... Gotta watch him tho he like sneaking rides in or on my vehicle's..

 

Twist the handle and move!!!

[Flyinfool]

it does almost look like someone tryed to roll the engine over without the outside cover journal support for that idler gear and that the idler gear simply pushed the inner journal apart when it tryed to roll up the engine - Anssi,, if this is NOT how that broken journal came to be - it would be well worth your time to investigate what exactly caused the breakage - you may have bigger issues (valve train out of time, stuck rod, loose bolt causing the drive train to abruptly lock up) here:detective:.......

I am pretty sure that the damage was done here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?123748-How-bad-do-I-need-choke-to-start-Choke-plungers-are-stuck-and-2-studs-broken&p=984953#post984953

 

......I TOTALLY agree with gluing the busted piece back in - wrapping it with wire or a small clamp - and give it a shot.. If you do this though - you might want to clean the area up really well and prep the area like you are going to want to weld it (grind a small "V" along the edges - but leave 1/2 the edge as it broke for alignment purposes) - dont try to use JB Weld or Liquid Steel as the glue for the intitial fitment - that stuff is WAY to thick and it will fill all the small high spots in the break you are gonna want to use for proper fitment. Instead - use Super Glue or any other thin running commercial adhesive to get the first fit so it is perfect. Let it set up real good - then do your thing with the JB Weld..

 

For gluing or the aluminum solder I would not grind the V. The but joint of broken edges is giving you alignment and if you are going to wrap the joint the but joint is just a tack, the more rough edges you glue the better the alignment will be.

 

If it ends up being that you HAVE to have that broken area for support and you simply dont wanna attempt welding,, wonder if Super Gluing the piece back in and then carefully chasing a set of threads over the journal - then screwing a nut over it - tighten it down and stake it on the unbroken journal half so the nut could not back off

 

Most readily available nuts that big will have a fairly coarse thread, I would be worried about the depth of the thread weakening the boss even more and having it snap off right at the base.

 

Have played with this stuff a little - works pretty dog gone good I tell ya!! Does take some practice (aluminum is wierd stuff - not all created equal - if your gonna practice, try to find a junk Yamaha case to practice on) but not bad.. Got a hunch Tiggin would be somewhat friendlier to rubber seals and case warpage/potential cracking as a LOT less over all heat is needed - thinking electrical fusion heat compared to melting temps (wait a minute - heats heat aint it - go ahead, call ol Puc a bonehead )

 

Hey Bonehead......... (well you asked me to.......)

You were right the first time, TIG will have a much smaller heat affected zone than using a torch for the soldering. The nearby seals will be much happier with TIG. With TIG the heat is concentrated to just the point of the arc, the torch flame will be heating a 3 to 4 inch diameter area. The TIG melts the metal almost instantly compared to having to hold the flame there for quite a while to get up to temp.

 

You guys are probably talking wayyyy farther into modern gearhead times than my experience is aware of but, back when I was Tiggin Power House steam pipe we used to use "Temp Stik" a lot! Came in a variety of temp setting, looked like a crayon and acted like one too = it would melt at a given temp. I used to draw cool little pictures of Choppers (some even with women on em - dont tell Tip ) and stuff on these great big 18 inch Tubes (the little stuff = all you could do was make a mark) - heat it carefully with a Rose Bud and watch my Crayola art melt before my eyes as the heat chased all the moisture out so my welds had no perosity... Might check at weld shop for Temp Stik - cheap and easy to use!! Like the paint Jeff is suggesting - dont use where your gonna weld..

 

THIS IS A RIOT!!!:beer::beer:

 

The paint and the crayon are the same stuff, the paint is a little cheaper than the crayon. Here is the equivalent 900° crayon. Again I am sure this is available in Finland. It might even be a good idea to get a second heat indicator maybe around 300°F to put by the nearest heat sensitive point, like a gasket or a seal. So that you can tell if the whole case is getting to hot where it might damage something else. You would know when to stop and let things cool down.

[Flyinfool]

So its been a little over a month.

Did you try one of the suggested methods or come up with another one of your own?

Curious minds need to know.

[skydoc_17]

Easier way to go!

Grind off the remainder of the broken boss. Using a center drill, spot a hole as close to the center of the boss as you can. With a drill, drill thru the engine case and tap the hole. (this next part requires a machine shop, or at least a metal lathe) Using a grade "8" bolt with the same thread size you put in the case, cut off the head of the bolt, and machine a "new boss" into it. Screw the new boss into the threaded hole with "red loctite" and this project is done.

Earl

[Yammer Dan]

That Earl could have something there!! But I thought the Fool's idea with the wire and JB weld sounded good too. Several in here that could work......

[baylensman]

Devcon and Loctite both make a Repair putty that is specific to aluminum. Loctite used to sell a release agent that you could spray on a bolt then thread it into the broken casting and spread the putty around it. after thirty minutes you could unsure the bolt, let the repair sit for 24. hours then grind it down and reseat the bolt up to like 85 foot pounds. great for car intakes.

[Arxvz1200]

Short:repaired with high heat jbweld and got the bike running.

 

Long

Sorry for not getting back earlier. I just walked away....until now.

I was so frustrated that I buried the bike at the back of my garage. I was thinking that I'll give it away for parts, didn't want see it

 

But I just sold my only running bike Suzuki GS1100L yr82. In "need" of a bike , I came back to face my enemy.

Plan was to give it this Saturday, make a quick, cheap fix

and then to decide to keep working on it or loose it.

 

 

Unfortunately I don't have pics of the repair. just put jbweld around it...and waited 2 hours. Looked okay. Put the cover back on, filled oil

Some gas, attached car battery and started cranking. After little sprays of starting gas it started to pick up.

 

So the current situation is this

- the bike starts and runs, with 4 cylinders, haven't adjusted mixture or balance yet

 

Next ?

- adjusting carbs

- how does the cooling works. i've only had air cooled engines

- I don't think it charges

- the clutch doesn't work

 

Engine running gives me a boost of energy to carry on. I know the fix is not ideal, but so far it has done the job.

 

Again I want thank you for all your knowledge. I'm sorry I took this long to make an update.

I'll be posting a video of the bike and doing a lot of searching on this site. Hopefully in coming weeks I'll be taking a ride with this thing...

Anssi