Carburetor rebuild in Charlotte area

[Yammer Dan]

You did the work!! I took a Nap. RIDE IT!!

[cowpuc]

I am with ya Sylv - gotta LOVE this joint brother - just noticed this thread,, sounding like these guys have got ya rollin again!!

 

Just wanted to add - another thing that I have had success with is filling the carbs thru the drains with straight carb cleaner. Berryman's works awesome for this too. I use a large animal syringe available from Ag Stores - pull the diaphrams and slides, attach the syringe to the drain hose, shoot the juice in till it comes out of the metering rod hole/main jet, close the drain and go to the next one. Let it em set a couple hours, open the drain and move the juice in and out with the syringe to agitate it - suck the Berrymans out - refill with aresole carb cleaner (remember that stuff we used to be able to buy that would burn your finger under your wedding band if ya left it on - man I miss that stuff,, this stuff nowadays is WIMPY) - let it set a couple hours - agitate and remove - fill the syringe with gas - overflow the metering rod holes - agitate and remove.. Saved lots of carb cleanin this way...

[NewbeeMC9]

here's the link to the shotgun

 

 

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm

 

Check diaphragms when doing this too.

 

 

 

also, start it up when cold, touch all the exhaust pipes near the head(or HF infrared thermometer) and see if they are all warming up. Mine ran like you are saying and it ended up being a stuck float valve and was only running on three cylinders.

 

Keep us posted with what you find.

[Sylvester]

Had a very well trained Yamaha mechanic tell me that I need to replace the plugs before doing more flushes on the carbs. His theory is that the plugs are fouled now because of all the varnish, etc. being burned in the cylinders. Just the plugs is all he recommended, for now. This mechanic I trust and have used in the past. He wasn't available when I first posted which may be good, since he already told me that he would have pulled the carbs.

 

I will keep you posted.

 

 

[Yammer Dan]

He is right but I would wait til I got done with the heavy treatments. Sea-Foam is rough on plugs as are the others. My old brain slipping cogs again. I would also buy Autolite plugs at about 1.50 a plug til I got it running right. If you loose one no big deal. Can't remember number!! After you get it running to suit ya put in the NGKs or just run those Autolites.

[TDunc]

I had a friend of mine over on Hickory Grove rd tell me about a guy on New Hope that he just used for his 99. You may already know the guy, the shop is just down from the boat dealer ship toward Cramer Middle school. Has all the ummm junk in the front. Friend tells me he was resonable and his bike runs well. Never used the guy myself.

 

If you still need to go that way PM and I will give you my friends number and you can call and talk to him about his 99 and get it straight from the horse's mouth.

Sounds like you have it fixed though.

 

Good to hear from you again

[Sylvester]

He is right but I would wait til I got done with the heavy treatments. Sea-Foam is rough on plugs as are the others. My old brain slipping cogs again. I would also buy Autolite plugs at about 1.50 a plug til I got it running right. If you loose one no big deal. Can't remember number!! After you get it running to suit ya put in the NGKs or just run those Autolites.

 

 

That is what he told me, are you clairvoiant?

 

Use cheap plugs he said .

 

[snyper316]

Yeh the guy at AutoZone keeps trying to sell me platinums. I just keep telling the need the copper split fires back... I kid you all not I had flintstone c c c cor cor I mean chevette I would pull 30 -40 mpg in that car 10 bux in tank a week would get me all week long to work then some.. wished camera phones existed in 95...

 

Twist the handle and move!!!

[Yammer Dan]

That is what he told me, are you clairvoiant?

 

Use cheap plugs he said .

 

 

Just been down that road a few times.

[Sylvester]

Got the NGK plugs yesterday. Tried cross reference to Champion and got 5 or 6 differrent numbers for Champion. Today...I got the flu or a cold so all can wait for now.

[Sylvester]

Put 7.5 oz. Berryman into tank and topped off with fresh gas. Ran long enough to fill carbs. Will put new plugs in by weekend and then run it hard.

 

Thanks all,

I will keep you posted.

 

[Sylvester]

OK. Let me bring you up to speed on this thread. I have pulled the carbs and disassembled the rack down to four carbs. Started on the first one and have these questions, since you have all been so good about help.

 

1. How do I remove the needle jet?

2. Can I still get a hose joint for the fuel feed "T" pipes? (The O ring that goes into the carb, that the "T" fits into.)

3. The carb boots to the engine are cracked, not all the way through, is this something that is still available and is it the time to change them while into it this far if available?

 

[snyper316]

3. If your boots are cracked I would replace them while the carbs are out of the way.

 

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[snyper316]

Please tell me you aren't talking about the t that is pressed into carbon#1. If you are you can do one of two things just by the number one carbon body or get the elbow that presses in and buy two fuel t's one to go between number 2&1 and the other one coming from the fuel pump and run either side to numbers 1&2 and 3&4.

 

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[Sylvester]

To all who tried to help me and those that are just curious, I give you the following.

 

The carbs had no varnish after (or before) an overnight soak. What was the problem is ethanol degradation of the fuel lines.

Had to have the carbs professionally cleaned and reassembled.

 

Thanks to all,

 

[snyper316]

That's what happened to me I just couldn't get the right so I had to pay someone to do it for me. They can get some things we can't.

 

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[videoarizona]

Sorry I'm late for this thread. My outboard motor carb was truly gunked after sitting for two years. Last time I had to buy a new carb.. Could not get the idle circuit clean.

 

This time, a free days ago, I spent 4 hours taking the little carb off and cleaning it. What finally did the trick was using @cowpuc's trick of shooting carb cleaner back up into the drain. That got my high speed circuit working. I then shot the carb cleaner into the idle air circuit while running. Took about 5 sprays but she now runs sweet! I now know I could have brought the carb back to life by doing those two things and not have to take the carb off the motor. So the Sea Foam didn't do it, but good old carb cleaner did. And this carb is much smaller than ours with even smaller jets.

 

Glad to hear you are back in business, but if this ever happens again, suggest you try the carb cleaner and use every trick you can find on this site. Chances are, those carbs will come back nicely!

 

Enjoy the ride!

[cowpuc]

Sorry I'm late for this thread. My outboard motor carb was truly gunked after sitting for two years. Last time I had to buy a new carb.. Could not get the idle circuit clean.

 

This time, a free days ago, I spent 4 hours taking the little carb off and cleaning it. What finally did the trick was using cowpuc's trick of shooting carb cleaner back up into the drain. That got my high speed circuit working. I then shot the carb cleaner into the idle air circuit while running. Took about 5 sprays but she now runs sweet! I now know I could have brought the carb back to life by doing those two things and not have to take the carb off the motor. So the Sea Foam didn't do it, but good old carb cleaner did. And this carb is much smaller than ours with even smaller jets.

 

Glad to hear you are back in business, but if this ever happens again, suggest you try the carb cleaner and use every trick you can find on this site. Chances are, those carbs will come back nicely!

 

Enjoy the ride!

 

Heyyy,, hi ya Vaz!!! Glad it worked for ya brother .. Wanna little more inside info on some crazy stuff pertaining to that suggestion I have tried around here? Years ago, while searching for a quick fix for totally plugged carbs I did some personal testings with a variety of carb cleaners.. Seafoam actually came in last place as a soaking cleaner (left the part in raw Seafoam and the stuff did nothing - I still use Seafoam but only to assist in keeping things open over long periods of time) - that spray cleaner did a pretty good job BUT - the REAL amazing stuff is a product called "Chem Clean" - comes in a gallon can with a little dip screen inside of it. That "Chem Clean" is AMAZING stuff but extremely harsh - left a 1 inch oring in it over night one time just to see what would happen and the next morning it looked like a donut someone at Krispy Kream had left in the hot grease to long:detective:..

I dont tell everyone this cause the suggestion can easily get out of hand but I will tell you cause I know you wont hold it against me if things go south. There have been times that I have been in the middle of a bike ressurection process and needed to find out exactly what I had before I wrapped a bunch of time and money into the project. As you know, plugged jets - stuck floats and varnished filled carbs are a way of life around stuff that has sat for a long time.. I cant tell you how many times I have pulled valve covers to pre lube cams and then did exactly what you did using "Chem Clean" to clean the carbs while on the scoot enough to be able to run the scoot, do a test ride just to find out what I had. It's a crap shoot when you use the stuff whether or not you will end up having to rebuild the carb cause of o-ring or inner diaphram damage BUT - sometimes those jets are plugged solid that they would have to be replaced anyway.. I gotta say though,, thru the years there have been times that the carbs cleaned up perfect and did great for thousands of miles with no problems..

I know this all sounds down right crazy cause carbs are not suppose to be that difficult to deal with - seems like an hour or so to remove a carb and clean it would be no problem.. Can tell ya,,, getting the airbox assembly off a 6 cylinder CBX Honda or even a CB750 or an early kawi Voyager can be an all day job if done right - just remember this post if ya ever find the need to be able to run one to see if its got a rod missing or broken balance shaft BEFORE you put a bunch of time/money into it.. If you ever try the stuff, dont go beyond 1/2 hour on the soak and followup with spray carb cleaner and a good cleaning with gas to get it all out. Its the ONLY stuff I have found that will open totally clogged low speed jets if possible...