SilvrT Posted September 7, 2016 #1 Posted September 7, 2016 Looking for some advice from those of you who either have or have had either a class A or C motor home. Eventually both of us will retire (possibly as early as next July) and we're planning on buying a used M/H, hooking an enclosed trailer onto the back with our Roady inside and touring the country for a year or so. Looking for info on what to buy, what's good/not good, things to look out for, GM V8 - Ford V8 - V10 - or diesel ... any info at all would be appreciated as I know zilch about these things. Prefer a class A but open to consider class C. We're thinking mid to late 1990's or even early 2000's and our budget tops out at $20k CAD. I've been scouting the 'net and there's quite a few available in that price range, some with under 100k kms even.
snyper316 Posted September 7, 2016 #2 Posted September 7, 2016 I don't know much but I will give just a tad of input.. Try to go diesel I have owned a rabit that had 288,000 on it. A friend owned a ford diesel it had around 300,000 on it, Then my girlfriends Uncle has a Chevy Van with almost 200,000 on it. They are older vehicles and I don't know what they put in Motor Homes but don't take my word on it. If I could have got a diesel Tahoe I would have! I would possibly google search the paticular one you get an eye on and look for reviews. That is just me tho, As I would also trust anyone of these guys with there honest Opinions too, I'm sure this may a whole new can of worms too... Kinda like our tire, oil, and what have ya threads. Good Luck!!
WallyG Posted September 7, 2016 #3 Posted September 7, 2016 We used to have a 34' class A on an Oshkosh chasis, Ford drivetrain, 460 cu. in. Pig on fuel(70 gal or 266 litre tank, wouldn't want to be filling it up at today's prices:yikes:), I was lucky to get 5 mpg on the highway, lots of weight to pull on the road and almost as aerodynamic as a shoebox. Max speed on the highway about a 100, so a real hazard on the Coquihala or the ickspressways south of the border... Of course, on the plus side - all the comforts of home when you finally park for the night Setting up for the night was a fairly complex procedure: hook up the water, sewer, power, cable, pull the curtains closed and then try and figure out what you want to watch on the tv If and when we ever get another one it would be a Class C, diesel, with slides. If it's gonna be just you and your missus, have you thought about a class B? Easier to drive, can still pull a trailer and (I would think) a whole lot easier on fuel... Good luck any which way to decide, that's my ...
uncledj Posted September 7, 2016 #4 Posted September 7, 2016 My vote would be for a class "A". Roomier inside and the big windshield / side windows makes watching the world go by more pleasurable. Slideouts are a big plus, but will raise the price. Large displacement v8 engines are fine, and probably give a bit more torque, but the Triton V10 in my 32' class A pulls just fine, but tends to rev a bit more. Has no problem maintaining 70mph pulling a trailer with my Venture on it. May drop down a bit on steep hills. These things are all gas hogs, but I think the v10 may squeeze another mile or two out of a gallon of go juice. (debatable). Mine has gotten as high as ten mpg.....as low as 6 mpg pulling a loaded trailer....usually gets around 8 when going up and down the hills common to Ohio / PA where I do most of my travelling. Gas engine should be fine for occasional trips, but if you plan on doing a whole lotta travelling or heavy towing, a diesel would be best, but it'll cost quite a bit more, and they're more expensive when they do break. When I retire, I'm planning on tradin' up to a diesel with slide-outs. It's important to make sure the roof is in good shape and, if the sides are laminated, make sure there's no bubbles, which usually indicates moisturre damage to the plywood beneath. Check out the tires. Many of these motorhomes don't get used much, and tires often will suffer signs of age before the tread wears out. Look for cracking, and if you're savvy enough to decipher the info on the sidewall, you can tell the true age of the tires. Make sure the generator works well and looks to have been serviced, as they're expensive to repair / rebuild. The larger the inverter the better. 30amp would be pretty standard. 50 amp would be better. With the 30 amp on mine, I can only run one of the rooftop a/c units when plugged in. If I want to run both, I have to run my generator. If I had a 50 amp inverter, I'd be able to run both when plugged in. Levelling jacks are nice if ya can get them. Levels the motorhome out, and even if you're on level ground they firm it up so the motorhome doesn't rock and roll as you move around inside. Like with everything, opinions will vary, but those are some of my thoughts on the subject. Hope it helps. Happy motoring !!!
Marcarl Posted September 7, 2016 #5 Posted September 7, 2016 Diesel pusher, check the tires for age, get up on the roof and check around the protrusions, make sure the furnace works, and the water heater and the A\C, take it for ride down a bumpy road, have it inspected for brakes, front end, brakes lines, exhaust and the such. Make sure the seats work as intended. It would be nice to have landing lights. You'll need lots of cupboard space, plan this out a bit, you'll be amazed as to how much you (your wife) will want to drag along. Food is important, don't forget to leave some room for food!!
BlueSky Posted September 8, 2016 #6 Posted September 8, 2016 If you plan to go to the National Parks on the curvy steep roads, size is a consideration. I think you are limited in size if you want to park in a USA National Park campground. I'd advise against buying a Ford diesel 6.0L engine. It has a multitude of problems that can be remedied but it's expensive. The older 7.3L diesel is a great engine. The gas V10 is a great engine.
Sailor Posted September 8, 2016 #7 Posted September 8, 2016 We have a 20 foot Chinook. It is just right for Janet and myself. I have a friend who has sworn off diesels due to multiple very expensive repairs. I insisted on all fiberglass. Much less prone to leaks. Gas mileage varies considerably. On the flat it is about 12 mpg but in the mountains we are down to about 8. I like this one as it is small enough that we can drive it anywhere and if we decide to go shopping it will fit in an ordinary parking space. The bigger you go the more restricted you are as to where you can go with it. It all depends on where you want to go. We like to get off the beaten path. Don't be in a hurry, there is always a better deal just down the road. With aluminum be very cautious of leaks. They can be difficult to detect. When you first go into it sniff and see if you detect hidden mold. Of course if the owners are smokers that is all you will smell. For us it is a simple matter to unhook, drive off for the day, then return and hook back up.
djh3 Posted September 9, 2016 #8 Posted September 9, 2016 I would say diesel if possible. But you need to do homework on the power strokes. They had a couple versions there that had bad cyl heads and I think the other version had injector woes. Cummins is the way to go imop. Class B is basicly a conversion van. Not much room in them puppies. The C is built basically on a heavy duty 1 ton or larger frame/running gear. So mostly gas engines there but you can get the V-10 in them.
SilvrT Posted September 9, 2016 Author #9 Posted September 9, 2016 We have a 20 foot Chinook. It is just right for Janet and myself. I have a friend who has sworn off diesels due to multiple very expensive repairs. I insisted on all fiberglass. Much less prone to leaks. Gas mileage varies considerably. On the flat it is about 12 mpg but in the mountains we are down to about 8. I like this one as it is small enough that we can drive it anywhere and if we decide to go shopping it will fit in an ordinary parking space. The bigger you go the more restricted you are as to where you can go with it. It all depends on where you want to go. We like to get off the beaten path. Don't be in a hurry, there is always a better deal just down the road. With aluminum be very cautious of leaks. They can be difficult to detect. When you first go into it sniff and see if you detect hidden mold. Of course if the owners are smokers that is all you will smell. For us it is a simple matter to unhook, drive off for the day, then return and hook back up. thanks for the info Kerry. I'm not so sure I could "live" in a smaller rig and touring the country for an extended period requires living in it for that long. I think we'll be looking closely at a 30+ class A although I'm not completely ruling out a class C. ya, diesel sounds good but all the things I've read do point to expensive repair and maintenance. Looking closely at the Ford V10 as a power choice.
Gary N. Posted September 9, 2016 #10 Posted September 9, 2016 Hope you don't mind working on stuff because something that old will require constant work. maybe you are wanting a restoration project?? I think you'll have a hard time finding something in the $20000 range that doesn't need another $20000 of work in it. Look very closely at the roof for evidence of maintenance. If the calking is old and cracked, it's probably leaking. Look at the side walls for delamination. This is very hard to repair correctly. Low mileage doesn't mean good condition. Check all systems before you buy it. Tire age is very important. Anything over seven years old is borrowed time. When they blow out they will cause a lot of damage or a wreck. Figure on about $3500 for a set of 235/85 22.5 Michelins. FYI There are a few parks that restrict the age of units allowed in to 10 years max. I have a friend with a '92 Newmar, 40' 1 slide, Cummins diesel (11mpg) new tires and very good maintenance with all new interior $50000 My old '05 Winnebago 38J, 3 slides, GM 8.1 (8 mpg) K&N, Banks power pack kit (full length headers and 3" dual exhaust). Its still sitting on the dealer lot. Marked down to $63000. (He gave me $50000 for it on trade and was asking $84000) Very good condition and three year old tires. We lived in this for 4 months every winter. I had the computer reprogramed ($1000 USD) and it would scoot. I traded because I didn't want to sell it to anyone I knew. It looks very good but there are some issues. But nothing a lot of $$$$ can't fix. http://www.mcphails.on.ca/rv-used/WINNEBAGO/2005-WINNEBAGO-Adventurer+38J-baa80d560a0a001f4df3c7933c9901cd.htm
Sailor Posted September 9, 2016 #11 Posted September 9, 2016 I would go with the v 10. forget about the mileage. I had a dodge 440 that sucked gas on the hills but was very good on the flats because you never had to use the throttle. Our Chinook has a 360 2 bbl which lets us cruise at easily 120-130 kph on the flats but we are down to second gear and 50 kph on the hills. An original option was a 440 which I wish it had. I doubt it would make much difference on the gas bill. Ours is a 1978 but it is a one owner and in mint condition with just 95,000 kilometers on it. It took us two years to find it. We have been from Saltspring to Edmonton and another trip to Calgary for two weeks each. We plan on hitting the east coast sometime. Thinking of hooking a trailer on the back for a bike but I would downsize the bike first.
SilvrT Posted September 9, 2016 Author #12 Posted September 9, 2016 Hope you don't mind working on stuff because something that old will require constant work. maybe you are wanting a restoration project?? I think you'll have a hard time finding something in the $20000 range that doesn't need another $20000 of work in it. Look very closely at the roof for evidence of maintenance. If the calking is old and cracked, it's probably leaking. Look at the side walls for delamination. This is very hard to repair correctly. Low mileage doesn't mean good condition. Check all systems before you buy it. Tire age is very important. Anything over seven years old is borrowed time. When they blow out they will cause a lot of damage or a wreck. Figure on about $3500 for a set of 235/85 22.5 Michelins. Thanks for the info Gary. Most of the MH I've seen advertised (year range 1995-2003) are in the $15000 - $25000 price range and many of them have been well maintained and upgraded. Most have around 100k kilometers +/- . There's actually several for sale around here. In any event, all the info I'm gleaning here will be valuable when it comes time to plop down the money .... that won't happen until at least next summer.
camos Posted September 9, 2016 #13 Posted September 9, 2016 There's actually several for sale around here. In any event, all the info I'm gleaning here will be valuable when it comes time to plop down the money .... that won't happen until at least next summer.Are motorhomes like motorcycles in that the price is lowest before or during storage and then goes up when it comes time to use them?
Sailor Posted September 9, 2016 #14 Posted September 9, 2016 Have you checked Vancouver Island? Every time the ferry fares go up, which is every year, a bunch of larger ones come on the market fairly cheap.
SilvrT Posted September 9, 2016 Author #15 Posted September 9, 2016 Have you checked Vancouver Island? Every time the ferry fares go up, which is every year, a bunch of larger ones come on the market fairly cheap. yup ... I look at Kijiji, craigslist, autotrader, used.ca, etc ... any place that lists used RVs thru a google search ... even as far away as Quebec (but ya can't read the ads LOL)
Dale124 Posted September 10, 2016 #16 Posted September 10, 2016 The plan sounds like fun, Rick. If your trailer will fit a second bike, don't forget to swing by and pick me up! I'm ready to retire, but I will have to leave Barb here to keep bringing in the bacon and paying the bills . So, make sure the motor home has enough room for the 3 of us - I'm sure Nina won't mind Dale.
djh3 Posted September 10, 2016 #17 Posted September 10, 2016 We have talked a bit about selling the house and going RV full time. Go across country and work here and there. She says there is some kind of network of workers that typically work at the camp grounds for a couple moths and then move to another and work for them. I guess you get your spot and some tiding of money for work. Man I just dont know if I could go from the size house we have to like 400 sq ft. Something like this is what we are leaning towards. Previously owned of course. I still think if I can find someone to pay me for one of those blog things.........
videoarizona Posted September 10, 2016 #18 Posted September 10, 2016 Hmmmm... Now if that Raptor had a lift for a scoot......( Thinking out loud here )
Midrsv Posted September 10, 2016 #19 Posted September 10, 2016 My wife and I tried a travel trailer for 3 winter seasons in Florida. We bought a lot and set the trailer up seasonally. All was fine for the first couple of winters. Then last winter my wife got tired of going to the laundromat. I didn't find it that big of a deal but she sure did. She worked on me all winter to buy a house. I finally caved in April. We sold the lot and trailer (separately) and bought a house in the same park. I call it my $100k washer and dryer. We were in a 36 ft travel trailer with 3 slides. We were very comfortable in it. If you are looking at something larger than about 28ft make sure to get 2 AC units. We did and were glad we did.
snyper316 Posted September 10, 2016 #20 Posted September 10, 2016 Are motorhomes like motorcycles in that the price is lowest before or during storage and then goes up when it comes time to use them? You know that's a very good point. There was a Winebego setting down the street from my house for a year. The guy wanted what everyone thought was to much I believe it was a late 60's early 70's model. The guy was asking 12,500 for it. The condition wasn't desirable but was in straight clean condition. I have noticed some not very many around here seem to be a little cheaper in the Winter. Then about Spring time You can find prices all over the place. I have seen a few where it won't start or something or other and they go cheap. However with having the experience of owning vans and working on them, I don't believe I would want to work on a motor home after paying 6,000 for one. I know there not cheap machines and I wouldn't want to screw something up. So I would have to resort into taking it to a repair shop.
djh3 Posted September 11, 2016 #21 Posted September 11, 2016 Hmmmm... Now if that Raptor had a lift for a scoot......( Thinking out loud here ) Has a ramp on rear to drive into cargo space.
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