Fuel Pump Issue

[mirider]

Hadn't ridden bike for about a week and went to start it yesterday and had problems. Would not start unless choke fully on and then would die when any throttle applied. Searched forums here for info and suspect from my symptoms and what I read I have a fuel pump issue. To test, I opened side cover, rapped on the pump with a screwdriver and the bike started like normal. Does this indicate I need to replace the pump ? Bike is 09 Venture with about 45K miles and never had this problem before. Are the cheap pumps on ebay any good or a waste of money ?

 

Any feedback appreciated.......

[Du-Rron]

Hadn't ridden bike for about a week and went to start it yesterday and had problems. Would not start unless choke fully on and then would die when any throttle applied. Searched forums here for info and suspect from my symptoms and what I read I have a fuel pump issue. To test, I opened side cover, rapped on the pump with a screwdriver and the bike started like normal. Does this indicate I need to replace the pump ? Bike is 09 Venture with about 45K miles and never had this problem before. Are the cheap pumps on ebay any good or a waste of money ?

 

Any feedback appreciated.......

 

Facet Fuel Pump # 40178 has check valve and positive shut off/anti-syphon

 

http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php

FacetFuelPump40178.pdf

CubeFlyer2011.pdf

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...FQ-IaQodfHMPxw

[crowrod]

I bought a $20.00 dollar pump from e-bay lasted one week!!!! I now have a Mr Gasket model 42s, will need modified some what to fit. I cut the casing off and mounted it where the gas filter usually goes, so far so good!

[bongobobny]

Well, looks like you already have your answer!! Yes, 2nd gen fuel pumps are a known weak point, and no, those cheap Chinese fuel pumps are a waste of money, you get what you pay for per John Arbuckle!

 

several have gone with the Mr. gasket, several have just installed new points on the stock fuel pump (the real culprit). Actually, I am more interested in Du-rron's suggestion mostly for the check valve and anti syphon feature as I never shut off my fuel switch. Mr. Du-rron, how much McGuiver'ing was involved??

[mirider]

Appreciate the info and links. Is it generally agreed then my problem IS the fuel pump ?Would the fix I did just indicate sticking points and can that be dealt with without replacement ? [emoji848] I see the best price on an OEM pump is about $220 and I see pumps listed from $20 to $70 on line. What the heck is the difference for that price variance ?

[cecdoo]

I had exactly the same problem you are experiencing on my 06, I just went ahead and put an OEM pump back on. Easy job, figured I was good for another 10 yrs.

Some guys rebuild the pumps and keep them for spares.

Good luck, Craig

[Du-Rron]

Well, looks like you already have your answer!! Yes, 2nd gen fuel pumps are a known weak point, and no, those cheap Chinese fuel pumps are a waste of money, you get what you pay for per John Arbuckle!

 

several have gone with the Mr. gasket, several have just installed new points on the stock fuel pump (the real culprit). Actually, I am more interested in Du-rron's suggestion mostly for the check valve and anti syphon feature as I never shut off my fuel switch. Mr. Du-rron, how much McGuiver'ing was involved??

 

From @Raider58 install his pic shows two fittings and bolt it in. The electrical connection can be made by cutting off old fuel pump pigtail and splicing on to new fuel pump.

 

[Du-Rron]

Appreciate the info and links. Is it generally agreed then my problem IS the fuel pump ?Would the fix I did just indicate sticking points and can that be dealt with without replacement ? [emoji848] I see the best price on an OEM pump is about $220 and I see pumps listed from $20 to $70 on line. What the heck is the difference for that price variance ?

 

Soldering in a new set of points is a viable option. Would probably last forever. If you want to get rid of points problem, then electronic pump is the way to go.

[Seaking]

I just recently went through having to repair my fuel pump (third time down on 06 Midnight 143K miles).

 

The contact points are the easiest and best route to take. It is NOT difficult to install after removing the dead ones off the pump.. simple quick solder job and away ya go.. seriously, it's THAT easy that some folks don't bother taking the pump off the bike..

 

The cheap eBay pumps are worse than the Yamaha one so avoid those.. (cheap yes but you'll soon regret getting what ya paid for...)

 

The bike is running SO much better now than it had all summer long (slowly failing pump rumbles the engine, now running much smoother)

 

 

https://fortnine.ca/en/k-l-universal-fuel-pump-point-switch-kit-18-4615

[2WHEELSFORME]

After two stock failures I went with the Facet. Only required a few small pipe fittings to turn one of the outlet/inlets so that both were pointing the same direction. Thousands now and no failures and no need to turn petcock off.

[gggGary]

If it dies out in Leftwingnut Kansas can you plumb the fuel line direct and get r home? Will one of the lines reach from tank to carb? Wo(a)ndering minds.

 

13K on a 99 that was a desert rat for a long time.

[bongobobny]

OK the Facet is on my list of mods for next year...

[mirider]

Since I lack skills other than direct replacement plug and play type repairs, I would prefer to go with an OEM pump but leery of paying $220 when I found a K&L version on Amazon for $145.00. Anyone have any experience with a K&L? https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Fuel-Pump-18-5527/dp/B008OXIU3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472854762&sr=8-4&keywords=K%26L+fuel+pump

[Condor]

Soldering in a new set of points is a viable option. Would probably last forever. If you want to get rid of points problem, then electronic pump is the way to go.

 

No need to solder anything... The replacement points are identical to those in the pump. The only problem I found was the pigtail wire was crimped at the contact point. A little prying and squeezing will work....

 

If it dies out in Leftwingnut Kansas can you plumb the fuel line direct and get r home? Will one of the lines reach from tank to carb? Wo(a)ndering minds.

 

13K on a 99 that was a desert rat for a long time.

 

Go buy a right angle 5/16th male to male hose bib from your local auto supply. Take the two leads off the pump and connect them using the fitting. No need for a hose...

Since I lack skills other than direct replacement plug and play type repairs, I would prefer to go with an OEM pump but leery of paying $220 when I found a K&L version on Amazon for $145.00. Anyone have any experience with a K&L? https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Fuel-Pump-18-5527/dp/B008OXIU3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472854762&sr=8-4&keywords=K%26L+fuel+pump

 

Like me, if you don't like McGuivering an after market pump in the OEM's place, you might try replacing the points. I picked up 3 sets off Amazon for around $25 bucks a set. I also picked up a used fuel pump off eBay. I carry a spare pump in the saddle bag on long trips...

 

[Condor]

Soldering in a new set of points is a viable option. Would probably last forever. If you want to get rid of points problem, then electronic pump is the way to go.

 

No need to solder anything... The replacement points are identical to those in the pump. The only problem I found was the pigtail wire was crimped at the contact point. A little prying and squeezing will work....

 

If it dies out in Leftwingnut Kansas can you plumb the fuel line direct and get r home? Will one of the lines reach from tank to carb? Wo(a)ndering minds.

 

13K on a 99 that was a desert rat for a long time.

 

Go buy a right angle 5/16th male to male hose bib from your local auto supply. Take the two leads off the pump and connect them using the fitting. No need for a hose...

Since I lack skills other than direct replacement plug and play type repairs, I would prefer to go with an OEM pump but leery of paying $220 when I found a K&L version on Amazon for $145.00. Anyone have any experience with a K&L? https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Fuel-Pump-18-5527/dp/B008OXIU3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472854762&sr=8-4&keywords=K%26L+fuel+pump

 

Like me, if you don't like McGuivering an after market pump in the OEM's place, you might try replacing the points. I picked up 3 sets off Amazon for around $25 bucks a set. I also picked up a used fuel pump off eBay. I carry a spare pump in the saddle bag on long trips...

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]107205[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]107206[/ATTACH]

[sldunker]

I have come across another option. I have been replacing the points about every 23,000 miles. I have about $120 invested in points that I have installed between two fuel pumps. The reason for two pumps is one is a spare. I would change out pump as soon as I started having problems.

 

I am a member of Adventure Rider forum. There is a guy there call Dr_Bean that has come up with a small printed circuit board with a photoelectric sensor that replaces the point set on Mitsubishi fuel pumps. According to people that have installed this kit, it will last for years. I took a chance and ordered this kit for 42 euro(about $49). I installed it on Tuesday 8-30. I have put about 500 miles on it and it works really well. Only time will tell how long it will last. Anyone else that is interested should Google 'Dr Bean fuel pump kit' and it should show all the info. Just passing along the info.

[Freebird]

Now that's an interesting option. I've been lucky so far and have never had to replace a fuel pump but that is something that I would look into.

 

Found this link:

 

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/dr-beans-950-fuel-pump-kits.823347/

Edited September 3, 2016 by Freebird

[gggGary]

So normally just the points go "out", what happens to them? Would a standard points cleaning every 20K miles or so be helpful? Should they have a condenser across them? was it left out for "economy" or packaging?

[Phoneman1981]

Hello everyone: Lots of good advice here. I myself have not had any fuel pump issues but one of my friends with a 2005 VStar 1100 did. I discovered the same replacement point for our RSTD and Ventures also fit the 1100. I discovered the RSV does have a different shaped electrical plug. 1100's and RSTD are the same style plug. I recently replaced points in each of the three models. 1100, RSTD and RSV. With the pump on my bench and the soldering iron hot it took me 8 minutes each to replace the points. To test the 1100 pump, I swapped it with my RSTD pump. Kept the RSTD pump in my saddle bag. Just

back from a 2500 mile trip. No issues.

 

Another member purchased a new pump from Dennis Kirk. I rebuilt his failed pump. DO NOT throw your old pumps away.

[Phoneman1981]

So normally just the points go "out", what happens to them? Would a standard points cleaning every 20K miles or so be helpful? Should they have a condenser across them? was it left out for "economy" or packaging?[/quote

 

Here are my observations,

based on recent rebuilds

 

1100 VStar with only 5000 miles.

points worn at severe angle.

 

RSV and RSTD with 25-40 K miles

Points miss matched and worn crooked.

 

My 2005 RSTD with 50,000 miles plum fine?? Cleaned the contacts and put it in my side bag as a spare.

[mirider]

Like me, if you don't like McGuivering an after market pump in the OEM's place, you might try replacing the points. I picked up 3 sets off Amazon for around $25 bucks a set. I also picked up a used fuel pump off eBay. I carry a spare pump in the saddle bag on long trips...

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]107205[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]107206[/ATTACH]

 

Condor, thanks for the tip on points.....may do that. Question: Are the points shown the right ones for my bike - 09' RSV.

[Condor]

Condor, thanks for the tip on points.....may do that. Question: Are the points shown the right ones for my bike - 09' RSV.

 

YEP....

[Leland]

'06 RSTD, 45K. Took a 1,700 mile trip through New Mexico week before last, bike ran great. Did not start it for a week. Last Saturday started and ran fine for a short trip. Last Sunday started fined, but soon died. I took the cover off of the fuel pump contacts and manipulated contacts with my finger and it started pumping. These contacts look fine to me. I ran the engine for no more than two minutes while manipulating the contacts. During this short run time, the pump became so hot that you could not touch it so I don't think a set of contacts is the answer. Think that I will go with the Facet pump. Both the 40171 and 40178 have the check valve and positive shut off and both are rated at 15 GPH @ 2.0-3.5 PSI. Does anyone know if it matters which one?

[djh3]

Both look same to me, with the exception of under positive lead it says "Packard". So dont know if that means it has a connector already installed or what. But pressure and fitting size is all same. I used the MR Gasket and never had an issue with flooding.

[Leland]

Replaced the stock pump with the Facet 40178. I drilled and tapped an 8-32 screw to mount, isolated with rubber on back. Screw is located behind the flare nut. As an FYI, NAPA carries this pump under their part number BK 610-2403. Took it for a 50 mile test Saturday and bike ran fine. On my arrival home, I immediately pulled the side cover and the pump was cool to the touch.

 

On a side note, I have a Koso digital volt meter. With the Garmin 550 and XM radio on, I always ran a consistent 13.9 VDC. With the new fuel pump, I am at a consistent 14.0 VDC.