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Posted
That's what I needed to know. I'm sure one of the local auto parts stores can make some up for me.

 

 

Part of what you want is for the cables to be welding cable. Welding cable is made up to be much more flexible and is much easier to snake thru the bike.

A welding supply shop may be able to make them up for you also. A local marine supply store also makes up cables.

Posted

The local weld shop no longer sells cable by the foot, I would have to buy a 25' roll. I ended up at a Auto Value store. I was able to examine a used piece of 4 gauge cable and felt it wasn't that less flexible than the stock cables so my new cables will be ready next week. :banana:

Posted

I just replaced mine last week. I have the proper crimper and have thought about making up a few sets. I'm out of town.

 

At the moment I'm out of town. I'm in Wingo, KY and weather permitting I should be on the Tail of the Dragon this afternoon, SC tonite and back home around Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

I was planning to order the cable and terminals next week and make about a half dozen sets.

 

If you would like I'll measure my old ones for you.

 

Heather

 

Posted

Cables are in, well worth the time and money! I paid $64 at the local Auto Value store. Nothing I couldn't have done, but I'm slowly learning to "pick my battles". :mo money:

Posted (edited)

I am working on an order for the materials to make a limited production of a dozen sets. I will likely place the material order tomorrow.

 

I'm designing them as 4 awg cable/harness complete with the main positive wire to the main fuse connector and include the the frame ground w/connector as well as as an auxiliary frame ground (2 ground wires) besides the negative cable.

The plan is to literally be "Plug n Play" with the lower connectors sealed, marine, waterproof. All of the connectors tinned copper and thick wall marine grade heat shrink with adhesive.

 

My intent is provide a once and for all solution to the ageing cables on the first gens using the finest materials.

 

Cross your fingers! They still must materialize before they will be available!

Edited by yamagrl
Posted

Check out these connectors for the electrical system main positive and main ground.

 

The 4 awg battery cable are gunna be "Plug n Play" for real!

I'm waiting on some of the lugs to arrive. The supplier accidentally sent the wrong lugs and they have reshipped the correct ones. They are supposed to arrive on Thursday. But that's ok 'cuz I'm chasing Big Red's front tire for the next few days anyhow.

 

IMG_20160903_182326742.jpg

 

IMG_20160903_182246130 (1).jpg

Posted
:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

 

There were several different people over the years that were making up the cables. But none of them are still members here.

 

Dingy is still a member although it appears an inactive member. He might make up some cables if you pm him.

Posted (edited)
Dingy is still a member although it appears an inactive member. He might make up some cables if you pm him.

 

 

Yamagrl might make some up too.. PM her.

Edited by yamagrl
typo
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Need input

 

@Flyinfool Condor Freebird bongobobny Venturous Randy @cowpuc Yammer Dan djh3 Dragonslayer camos on Comet, and Cupid, On Donner and Blitzen?

 

 

The three way connector for the stator wires is a known issue that has caused lots of charging problems. I think I have located a source.

 

I'm considering either including them and perhaps some other connectors with the cables or offering them as an option/stand alone purchase.

 

What other "nearly impossible to find" connectors would be good to include/offer?

 

The responses here will greatly influence the amount of effort I devote to locating the correct ones and how they are offered.

 

Input please

 

Edited by yamagrl
Posted

Hmmmmm, once in a great while the connector for the pickup coils causes problems, but then again just about any connector on the bike can get corroded and cause issues. I don't think there are any silver bullets ot there that would fix everything! I think the cable upgrade is the most needed, as far as the stator and R/R hard soldering the wires seems to be the universal fix...

 

Make sure you mention @Marcarl into the continuum...

Posted (edited)
Hmmmmm, once in a great while the connector for the pickup coils causes problems, but then again just about any connector on the bike can get corroded and cause issues. I don't think there are any silver bullets ot there that would fix everything! I think the cable upgrade is the most needed, as far as the stator and R/R hard soldering the wires seems to be the universal fix...

 

Make sure you mention Marcarl into the continuum...

 

@Marcarl whatcha think? I probably should have started here.

Edited by yamagrl
Posted
Hmmmmm, once in a great while the connector for the pickup coils causes problems, but then again just about any connector on the bike can get corroded and cause issues. I don't think there are any silver bullets ot there that would fix everything! I think the cable upgrade is the most needed, as far as the stator and R/R hard soldering the wires seems to be the universal fix...

 

Make sure you mention Marcarl into the continuum...

 

Hard soldering them is a positive fix when new connectors are not available. But, I'd prefer to replace the faulty part if I can get my hands on it. I think the failure of some of these connectors is simply a result of "Birthday Disease" and with the correct replacement those connectors will be good for another quarter century or more.

Posted

I think that the connector used is marginal for the job when new. It does not take much contamination to cause melting. If you put in a HO stator it seems likely that you will melt the plug.

 

As f ar as including it with the cables I would say no. It is an added expense that many just don't need. But offering it will get some sold, It is a PITA testing a stator that is soldered in.

 

As far as connectors to find. The connector that is under the seat on a 1st gen that is for all of the rear lighting. Both sides of this one.

Posted

Wellllll........ since you asked........

On my first gen, that 3 (white) wire connector you refer to was problematic as you know, due to it's dirty location and current load. They tended to develop bad connection, high resistance then overheat and melt. At one point I cut it out altogether and hard wired soldering that connection. Solved that problem but made it less convenient to remove the stator when necessary. If your looking at redesigning that connector it should be sealed to prevent dirt and moisture penetration and have a high resistance rating so it won't melt.

 

The other problem with the stator rubber grommet wire seals is that after a while or due to removal and reinstall they tended to leak. Which caused an irritating, and sometimes embarrassing oil puddle under the kickstand. This could be fixed with a little liquid rubber applied inside the holes the wires penetrated and a lite coat around the edge when reinstalling.

 

Another troublesome connection on the 1st gens was the ignition module,(black box)(tgi) connections. The factory location of the module (under the coils, above the engine) was a bad design. Due to the location they tended to heat up and draw moisture when cooling down, especially in humid climates. The mod fix was to relocate the module on top of the air box where it would stay cooler. As I recall, the trick was if your wiring harness connections were long enough to allow you to move it. Some were, some weren't. A harness extension kit for these connections might be a good idea.

Posted
Hmmmmm, once in a great while the connector for the pickup coils causes problems, but then again just about any connector on the bike can get corroded and cause issues. I don't think there are any silver bullets ot there that would fix everything! I think the cable upgrade is the most needed, as far as the stator and R/R hard soldering the wires seems to be the universal fix...

 

Make sure you mention @Marcarl into the continuum...

I always found it helpful to pack the back side if the quick connection plugs with liquid rubber to seal them from dirt and moisture penetration. Doing that seemed to eliminate the bad connection problems you get with 12 volt system quick connection plugs.

Posted
@Marcarl whatcha think? I probably should have started here.

I'm with Bob on this one. Once the stator has been replaced it will not likely bring on any more issues, so to solder it would be my choice. Cable upgrades on the other hand would be handy, but I don't work on a whole lot of 1st gens anymore yet, so don't expect me to empty your warehouse. That being said, it would be good to have a supply from somewhere, and if you want to make a few, it would be good for the club I think.

Posted

Yep,, concur,, HARD WIRE THE CONFOUNDED THING lest the blade connectors in that brand new high amp terminal figure out a way to contaminate theyselves causing resistance to magically appear with the resulting heat to melt any form of supporting plastic or rubber to the point that two of those little blades on the end of them there little white wires make contact with each other and short out a perfectly good stator leaving you stranded thousands of miles from nowhere:big-grin-emoticon:.....

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Coming soon... These battery/starter cable upgrade will be available in a few days (I'm busy, slammed at work)

 

They will be available on the Member Vendors forum as soon as I have the time to do the write up.

 

I plan to install a set on Big Red and do a Tech Article on how to install them as well as how to make them yourself if you so chose. I recently upgraded the cables on Big Red which why I decided to do this. But these cables are hands down far superior to the ones I installed on Big Red last month. So I'm going to go ahead and do it again. Nothing but the best for my Big Red!

 

  1. 4 AWG Welding cable
  2. Tin plated copper lugs/terminals
  3. Plug-n-Play OEM style quick disconnects on the system positive lead and system/frame ground lead
  4. 90⁰ terminal on positive battery lead
  5. Slim heavy duty lugs on lower ends for ease of pulling through the motorcycle
  6. Additional Positive and Negative/Ground leads for your personal use such as horns or lights.
  7. Adhesive lined 3-1 Polyolefin heat shrink. Marine grade
  8. Ten ton hydraulic crimp backed up with solder/tinning on open ends

This will be a limited production. I have enough supplies for about a dozen sets total. After that I have no idea whether or not I will do another run. In order to be relatively cost effective I have to order in significant quantities and so demand will dictate future production.

 

Check em out.

 

IMG_20160925_192405330.jpg

 

IMG_20160925_192457326.jpg

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