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Posted

Last Monday 8-8-16, I traded my 06 Roadliner 23K miles for a 08 Royal Star Venture S 25K miles and could not be happier! Don't get me wrong the Roadliner is a great bike but the wife and I were not comfortable on it on long trips. We came to that conclusion when we took a weekend trip to Hayward Wisconsin for the Lumberjack World Championships. 220 miles one way. We had to make about 4 stops for fuel and to give our butts a rest....lol. We went looking for something different in a touring bike. I sat on them all that were in our price range. Goldwings, Harleys and a Honda Valk Interstate. It came down to the RSV and the Valk Interstate. I could not get comfortable on the Harleys and Goldwings I'm 6'2" 300 the wife is 5'11" 200. The Valk was out due to a couple things. One the storage was too small, no cruise, and it was a 99 with only 7K miles. Red Flag for me since bikes are meant to be ridden, Lord knows how long it sat and how bad the seals were not to mention through my research that the Valk eats tires like the Roadliner did. I got less than 4K on the rear tire and I was babying it. and the fuel mileage. So we took the 08 RSV out for a test drive and instantly know that it was the bike for us. The only issues that I have, but can live with, is the top heaviness compared to the Liner and the shaft whine, but I knew this going into the deal. The radio makes up for, drowns out, the whine. Long story short. I gave up power 1850cc for comfort. Now that you got the background, what should I be looking out for? Valve adjustments, carb syncs and the like? I am somewhat mechanically inclined but bikes are new to me I haven't ridden in 25 years (Mid-life crisis)! Thanks STAT.

Posted

Welcome from down in the corner of Wisconsin.

I will be passing thru New Lisbon Labor day weekend, going from Milwaukee to Ladysmith.

 

There is a thread in the tech section of what to look for as common issues with a 2nd gen.

 

25K miles is getting close to taking a peek at the valve adjustment, it is not hard to do, just very time consuming because you have to take a lot of stuff off to get to them.

Posted

OK Carb sync, easy enough to do WITH the right sync gauges!

 

Chances are it's not the driveshaft whining, it's your clutch basket! There are a few things you can do to eliminate it, most of us just live with it!! There is a fix that requires installing an external oil line written up "somewhere" on this site. Of course your driveshaft may need to be removed and grease the splines, especially where it goes into the u joint!! Something we all do when we change rear tires.

 

Yup, the 1st gen's are top heavy with poor low speed manners. This can be fixed two ways. First, put a "130" size front tire instead of the "150" size (or is it 160?). Second, lower the forks about an inch by removing the front tire, loosen the pinch bolts, and push the forks up about an inch. Make sure you make both sides as equal as you can humanly do! Other minor factors also include equal air pressure in both forks and better fork springs, but those are minor, the REAL solution is the smaller tire and lowering the front!

 

At yur low mileage, valve adjustment should not be an issue. It is a nice preventative maintenance issue though, but probably a little more appropriate at 50K intervals. The issue being with wear the clearance gets SMALLER until you are down to zero clearance then you start burning valve seats. At that point the bike also won't start as easy, etc. It,s not a bad job to do BUT you need a special tool and you have to be very precise in what you do. It can be done with the engine still installed, you just have to take a few things off the top and be prepared to replace the valve cover gaskets and possibly the rubber boots on the valve cover bolts. The big issue with this is the bolts are just a smidgen too long and do bottom out, and with those rubber bolt gaskets they are already crushed or took a set, and it is VERY easy to overtorque the bolts and snap them off!!! You've been warned...

 

Seafoam is our friend!! At the beginning of the year put a whole can into a full tank of gas and drive it like ya' stole it! Once a month 1/2 can to a full tank of gas to keep things clean.

 

Plugs. Ventures tend to like to eat spark plugs. Best to use NGK's they seem to work the best. Regular NGK's if you change your plugs yearly, or the Iridium ones if you want to get 2- 3 years out of a set. Yes, you can get a few years out of the regular ones, but for the low cost of plugs, it's a good idea for trouble free operation to replace them regularly.

 

Oil!! Hoo boy, can of worms here as to what is best!! The main point, motorcycle or diesel oil is best. A lot of automotive oils have friction inhibitors in them, NOT a good thing for "wet" clutches!! Any friction inhibitor WILL make your clutch slip!! Speaking of clutches, they are just a tad weak and eventually prone to slipping. When it's time, replace the stock half size clutch plate with the optional Heavy Duty Yamaha full size one. Also replace stock clutch spring with the heavy duty PCW racing one!

 

Hydraulic fluid. Completely flush and bleed all the brake and clutch system. Something that should be done every few years! Just because the fluid looks clean in the reservoir does NOT mean it's clean on the other side! Dirty contaminated fluid causes all sorts of brake and clutch issues! Use DOT 4 and I also recommend a synthetic, higher boiling point...

 

OK I got kind of lengthy here, explore the tech sections of this site to learn all you need to know about these bikes and more! Also, a big WELCOME to the site!!!

Posted

STAT,

Bongo describes above the need to lower the front forks to improve handling but since you are a taller guy you may want to raise the rear instead. This involves changing out the "dog bone" links at the rear shock to raise the back end about an inch which of course accomplishes the same thing as lowering the front. There is a post in the tech section for this also. I did this to the 2 2nd gens I have owned and it makes a huge improvement. Enough that I have always stayed with the stock front tire size.

Posted

thanks for the reply's

1. If I'm not mistaken an 08 is 2nd gen right? If so does the tire and lowering come into play?

 

2. Seafoam. since riding season is almost done here up north I will put 1/2 can in on next fill up.

 

3. I'll change plugs next season.

 

4. carb sync. It starts right up and nice smooth idle after warm up so I'm not worried, but I do smell gas every so often while riding....hhhmmm

 

5. oil. I have a 2010 dodge Cummings so I already have a shelf full of Rotella T6 synthetic so I'm covered....how much does it take?

 

6. will flush brakes and hyro fluid next season.

 

Wife and I plan on a trip to Gettysburg and Mannasus next year....she if a Civil War buff.....me I'm a WW2 buff.....kinda hard to get to Hawaii on a bike.....lol.

Posted
Welcome from down in the corner of Wisconsin.

I will be passing thru New Lisbon Labor day weekend, going from Milwaukee to Ladysmith.

 

There is a thread in the tech section of what to look for as common issues with a 2nd gen.

 

25K miles is getting close to taking a peek at the valve adjustment, it is not hard to do, just very time consuming because you have to take a lot of stuff off to get to them.

 

take HWY 80 north when you get to New Lisbon, go through Necedah and Marshfield. 13 to 29 There is some Construction when you get to Stanley but its fine. Cadott to Ladysmith on 27 is a good ride.

Posted

If I'm not mistaken an 08 is 2nd gen right? If so does the tire and lowering come into play?

 

Yes it is a 2nd gen and the ride height/tire change does apply. There is a tab at the top of this page called "History" and if you read that you will become a Venture expert!

Posted
STAT,

Bongo describes above the need to lower the front forks to improve handling but since you are a taller guy you may want to raise the rear instead. This involves changing out the "dog bone" links at the rear shock to raise the back end about an inch which of course accomplishes the same thing as lowering the front. There is a post in the tech section for this also. I did this to the 2 2nd gens I have owned and it makes a huge improvement. Enough that I have always stayed with the stock front tire size.

 

I'll look into it.....I'm already flat footed enough. how much does it raise? 1"? maybe a winter project.....

Posted

How much oil?? Just under 4 quarts, manual says 3.7. You want to check the level after starting and running engine for a few moments to make sure oil filter is full, and then wait a good 4 - 8 hours minimum before checking the site glass for proper level. It's a good practice to pour some oil into the filter prior to installing however do not fill up as it mounts at a 90 degree angle so if you put too much in it will just pour out while screwing it in. With the bike level (try a 2x4 under the kickstand) check the site glass it should be around halfway full. No more than 2/3 up the glass!! Too much oil in it and the excess oil will get blown out of the engines as blowby and into the airbox, carbs, etc and that attracts dirt etc! You need to let the bike set for many hours because it takes forever for oil to drain back into the crankcase and off of the parts it lubes...

Posted

I put the leveling links and the 130 tire on makes it a much better handling bike. And you don't notice much of difference in the height I am 6'1 and still flat footed when setting on the seat.

If you get to Viroqua look us up we always like to get out for a ride. Or just have some company.

And the last weekend in June we have a Maintenance Day here at our place it's always a good time.

Orlin

Posted
I put the leveling links and the 130 tire on makes it a much better handling bike. And you don't notice much of difference in the height I am 6'1 and still flat footed when setting on the seat.

If you get to Viroqua look us up we always like to get out for a ride. Or just have some company.

And the last weekend in June we have a Maintenance Day here at our place it's always a good time.

Orlin

 

will wait on tire due to the front being almost new. Level links will do later, maybe when its time to replace rear tire. For now I do not do a whole lot of town driving. Will add you to my contacts.

Posted

You still got at least 2 months of riding left in Wisconsin. 3 if you get heated grips and riding gear. I always take a personal day off to CTWF in no particular direction.

Posted

I think he meant CTFW, Chase The Front Wheel.

 

I typically ride till mid November, I stop riding when Deer hunting opens and then there is usually SNOW :snow2: on the ground by the time I get home from deer hunting. I do not have heated anything. Just a warm coat and good gloves. I have ridden more than once dressed in full blaze orange from my chin to my ankles.

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