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Posted
Hehehe!! Let me help you decipher! . . . ! . .

 

:stickpoke::stickpoke:

 

Hey now what the heck that mean lol I am just rambling on about what I have been trying told you all I'm strange.. Any way someone told me to put it in the oven which I had done before.. but I actually took it with me to get the used TCI and forgot I left it in the truck so I was just saying it seemed to work as it should.I will just hold onto it for a Test TCI only. Heaven is up another Angel today and come Wednesday when my kids are in school I am gonna yank the carbs out and work on them to pass the time and try to keep my mind off other things. I just hope we get answers soon...

Posted
I have lots of spare parts (4 parts bikes) on hand) PM me if you would like to know more.

 

You might want to check them for buried treasure... and I will if I need any but at this point I need To stop being so Rambuctious to ride and get Marie fixed right... But there is just something about 2 wheels with a V-4 motor setting under you... any ways thanks for letting me know... But what I would really love to find is a complete carb rebuild kit... but don't seem like anyone makes them...

Posted

No; so far as I know there are no COMPLETE kits. There are some kits that have more parts than other but no COMPLETE kits.

Skydoc_17 is a source for parts/services and very good advice. He used to get a pretty good kit when they were available but the availability seems to be an on again/off again situation beyond his control. There are kits on E-bay from time to time for carbs in the same family as ours but they are NOT complete as Yamaha had some proprietary mods done to the carbs (is my understanding) and they don't support the carbs anymore. There are some carb shops on the Internet that deal with Micuni (sp?) carbs and they MAY be of $$$ help $$$ too. Oh I have treasures in the parts bikes. My plan is to partially repair the body parts leaving any holes that need to be drilled to the new owner of said parts. There are techniques to restore many of the commonly broken areas on these parts. I recommend you read all the tech library articles, the "common things to look for", and the "poor man's fixes" sections. Many of your questions are covered in these areas to some degree and you'll get a basic working knowledge of the bike's idiosyncrasies. http://www.venturers.com (org?) is another forum that has similar articles and features you should check out. That forum isn't as active as it used to be but the info is still there and there is SOME activity there. My advice is to stay away from pro (dealers) as much as you can; they get around $100.00 per hour and still don't fix some stuff. I change my own tires for example. The tools to do this are available on Amazon. Parts; ALWAYS check Amazon, Partzilla.com, Boats.net for parts. They buy dealer stocks or obsolete parts and offer them on ebay (where you might get a better deal than on their web sites) from time to time. Read the forum(s) and you'll learn all the places to check and who supports our hobby. Be sure to patronize the places that support us all you can, that will help keep their support.

Posted

The fairings on mine got cracks and one has piece missing out of it by the glovebox and the tab by the headlight And tried to replace and I have read through forums The ventures website I also use but joined this one because of all the useful information And activity And as far as parts go I just recently picked up a slide for $72.00 it was NOS OEM part but when I find stuff on eBay and it says make offer I use it.

 

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Posted

Alright here is a good question say you jet block is missing screws would that affect the way it runs so far i have found a blocked shorter jet but it's also the block that is missing the screws

 

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Posted

So, the only thing holding the jet block in place is the needle jet screw? I'd think that would be an issue. It has to be effecting the fuel flow drastically.

Posted
So, the only thing holding the jet block in place is the needle jet screw? I'd think that would be an issue. It has to be effecting the fuel flow drastically.

 

And i have tried everything to pull carbs and 3&4 apart I need to see if there is any other issues with these two carbs because so far i have had to replace the hold screw for the enrichment valve... the other screw I caught in time to screw it down tight. After I got the Carbs back I had to tighten the diaphragm screws but all i have to say is WOW $600.00 later I never thought I would be going thru the carbs myself and finding plugs put in the wrong holes upside down and one gasket pinched on the carb bowl.... the needle valve screw yep only thing holding the jet block in...

Posted

one more thing when i disambled the diaphragms I found a washer laying behind the cover so I took the needle out .. I believe I assembled them back they way they went dont it go needle washer spring then screw...

Posted

I haven't disassembled the piston/needle on mine but there is a washer on top of the screw that holds the needle to the piston, then the large spring, then the cover. It may have been that washer that was inside the diaphragm cover.

Posted

this one was a small washer and i thought it looked a little naked i wonder where those washers went... Ok I just went and looked up a diagram and it says needle set and part obsolete... o well i could be wrong i will look at my slide cause I have 2 of them out at the moment

Posted
The fairings on mine got cracks and one has piece missing out of it by the glovebox and the tab by the headlight.
There are a lot of different ways to repair plastic successfully. This thread describes how I do it and there are a few suggestions from others. A search for plastic repair will get you more than enough information to make you completely confused as to which way you should go. :smile5:
Posted
There are a lot of different ways to repair plastic successfully. This thread describes how I do it and there are a few suggestions from others. A search for plastic repair will get you more than enough information to make you completely confused as to which way you should go. :smile5:

 

well i went and done it i confused two jets lol the one that goes in the bottom of the jet block and the one that goes in the top of the carb lol

Posted
one more thing when i disambled the diaphragms I found a washer laying behind the cover so I took the needle out .. I believe I assembled them back they way they went dont it go needle washer spring then screw...

 

I haven't disassembled the piston/needle on mine but there is a washer on top of the screw that holds the needle to the piston, then the large spring, then the cover. It may have been that washer that was inside the diaphragm cover.

 

this one was a small washer and i thought it looked a little naked i wonder where those washers went... Ok I just went and looked up a diagram and it says needle set and part obsolete... o well i could be wrong i will look at my slide cause I have 2 of them out at the moment

 

This thread by @skydoc_17 may help

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32121-Ebay-Carb-Diaphragm-Replacement!

Posted

 

Thanks for that I wonder why his dont have the big flat washers mine use to have... but yeah so I was correct where the small washer went.. did find an over sized part I am wanting to call it the Deceleration.. It sets behind the roundish plate on the side of the carburetor... from what I can tell I think he may have got in a hurry reassembling my Carbs I just spent 9 hours going thru it and reassembling everything let it run for a bit without the air box on.. I am gonna make sure to book mark this post Because I had found it once before and then I couldn't locate it when I needed it.

Posted

I'd go back to the shop you paid six hundred $ to clean/rebuild your carbs and raise hell! Not doing as good a job as I would is one thing. But putting them back together wrong and losing parts?!! Absolutely unacceptable!

Posted

Well tearing down the carbs and cleaning them didn't change anything runs real good while cool but once it gets warmed up runs like DOO-Doo... So don't know where to go now..

Posted

Ok went to the local autoparts store and got some tractor plug wires it cured my problem dont understand how but it helped... anyways I now have a popping sound coming from my exaust so it could be that my mufflers have holes in them... possible running a bit lean I haven't put the new wire on the side that has the popping sound because It is rather warm at the moment..... I know the carbs need synced and adjusted but for now that idle stumble is gone I just ran it in my driveway for 30 minutes and let the fan cycle on and get up to operating temp and it did not stumble once which when I checked the wires before it was cold because I could not get it to fire never checked warm but did so today and found that number 3 wire had an odd intermittent spark.... but the guy at the bike shop was pretty sure I could use the wire and even if I couldn't I was only gonna be out 7.50 for 10 foot of wire has anyone else used the 7mm Copper core supressed wire on there Bikes... just curious if this has been done and how long the wire last.... thanks for all the help once again hopefully I can get me second set of carbs and rebuild them over the winter to keep me busy.. and possibly get another venture this coming winter to tinker with or even find a good deal like the feller who got that pretty blue one:starz::starz:

Posted (edited)
Ok went to the local autoparts store and got some tractor plug wires it cured my problem dont understand how but it helped... anyways I now have a popping sound coming from my exaust so it could be that my mufflers have holes in them... possible running a bit lean I haven't put the new wire on the side that has the popping sound because It is rather warm at the moment..... I know the carbs need synced and adjusted but for now that idle stumble is gone I just ran it in my driveway for 30 minutes and let the fan cycle on and get up to operating temp and it did not stumble once which when I checked the wires before it was cold because I could not get it to fire never checked warm but did so today and found that number 3 wire had an odd intermittent spark.... but the guy at the bike shop was pretty sure I could use the wire and even if I couldn't I was only gonna be out 7.50 for 10 foot of wire has anyone else used the 7mm Copper core supressed wire on there Bikes... just curious if this has been done and how long the wire last.... thanks for all the help once again hopefully I can get me second set of carbs and rebuild them over the winter to keep me busy.. and possibly get another venture this coming winter to tinker with or even find a good deal like the feller who got that pretty blue one:starz::starz:

 

I have a couple of suggestions

1. Look through the entire First Gen Read Only. All of the info in that section is important to know and many of the solutions you seek you will find within. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?13-First-Gen-Tech-Library-READ-ONLY But, definitely take the time to pretty thoroughly review this section.

 

2. Order these two videos from Damon Ferriaullo. They are "Vmax Engine Reassembly" and Complete Carburetor Rebuild" http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84030-DVD-of-1st-gen-motor-amp-carb-rebuild-process-purchase-info

3. The popping is probably caused by a lean air/fuel mixture created by:

  • Pilot screw adjustment
  • Check for vacuum leaks around the carb boots(manifolds), YICS lines, Boost Sensor vacuum line,
  • Air box to carb
  • Next I'd revisit the Air Cutoff Valves. Their purpose is to prevent that popping. That's the little diaphragms inside the round-ish plate that you described here. You mentioned that the shop didn't install one of them properly.
  • Maybe...maybe exhaust leak.

Edited by yamagrl
spelling
Posted

Yeh strange enuff my son begged me to take him for a ride and well it's not popping no more but boy do those carbs need synced also don't know if it affected it any but I did also connect the hose to the air box I guess I'll call it a snorkel tube that runs to the top of the engine being warm rubber is easier to work with then cold rubber

 

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Posted

Ok so I finally went thru the first generation tech articles and read all of them just don't quiz me my memory is trash but i have one question what in the heck is that vent tube for that runs from the engine to the bottom of the breather box.. the reason I ask is cause on the Rebel there isn't one...

Guest Jamsie
Posted

it is prob the crankcase breather. any overfill of oil and oil mist will be drawn into the airbox , then through the carbs and burned

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