snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 #1 Posted August 12, 2016 Ok here is a video because it better describes the problem i am having now..
Du-Rron Posted August 12, 2016 #2 Posted August 12, 2016 @Freebird, I can't see the video or the link. Just a large white space.
snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 Author #3 Posted August 12, 2016 @Freebird, I can't see the video or the link. Just a large white space. Hey try youtube.com and search gflowers32 should pull it up there
Venturous Randy Posted August 12, 2016 #5 Posted August 12, 2016 You may have some blocked pilot jets. It may help to drain the bowls by loosening the drain screw. You can also undo the rubber hose and fill the float chambes with Sea Foam and let it set over night. I would also spray carb cleaner or even brake cleaner into the top of the carb jets. Your volt meter sure looks to be reading high and the white light on the dash indicates you have a headlight element out and the reserve light unit is compensating. Randy
snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 Author #6 Posted August 12, 2016 You may have some blocked pilot jets. It may help to drain the bowls by loosening the drain screw. You can also undo the rubber hose and fill the float chambes with Sea Foam and let it set over night. I would also spray carb cleaner or even brake cleaner into the top of the carb jets. Your volt meter sure looks to be reading high and the white light on the dash indicates you have a headlight element out and the reserve light unit is compensating. Randy White light not on have both brights and dims just took it out for a ride after adjusting the screws in the bottom of the carbs the shop was so nice to take the covers off for me one of the screws was at 3 and 1/4 turns out screwed them all in.. and turned them back out 2 turns each took it out for a ride and when i got off I-49 onto Iris I stopped and let it idle and the Volt Meter was going down to below 12 and it start to stumble again... not as bad tho and it appears its from low voltage but I am not ruling out the carbs beeing she sat for close to a month anything can happen.. um i seen somewhere someone say something about balancing the floats?
Freebird Posted August 12, 2016 #7 Posted August 12, 2016 Video shows up for me. Not sure why you can't see it.
bongobobny Posted August 12, 2016 #8 Posted August 12, 2016 No Randy, that is his Neutral light that is on. Sure sounds like a carburetor issue to me! Could be idle jets, poor synchronization, pinholes in the diaphragms, etc etc etc. Your mixture adjustments should really be done with a CO sniffer (all 4 exhausts have removable plugs on them for this purpose) or with a "colortune" plug which allows you to see the actual color of the explosions inside each cylinder. Do a search on the "shotgun" method for cleaning the carbs, it might help. Seafoam can do just so much though, a plugged jet is hard to unplug...
luvmy40 Posted August 12, 2016 #9 Posted August 12, 2016 My current boondoggle had two completely clogged pilot jets and the right pilot mixture screws were turned in tight with the left side out 7-8 turns and she didn't stumble at idle like that. It wasn't a sewing machine smooth idle but it was steady and consistent with little rpm variation. It sounds like a combination of carb issues to me. Badly tuned pilot circuit/clogged jets, bad synchro, possibly bad diaphragms. I wouldn't think float level would be a major factor at idle unless there were extreme levels(no gas or full to overflow levels). I'm far from an expert on these bikes but I've seen similar symptoms in the XJs and a serious carb rebuild fixed it 90% of the time.
snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 Author #10 Posted August 12, 2016 No Randy, that is his Neutral light that is on. Sure sounds like a carburetor issue to me! Could be idle jets, poor synchronization, pinholes in the diaphragms, etc etc etc. Your mixture adjustments should really be done with a CO sniffer (all 4 exhausts have removable plugs on them for this purpose) or with a "colortune" plug which allows you to see the actual color of the explosions inside each cylinder. Do a search on the "shotgun" method for cleaning the carbs, it might help. Seafoam can do just so much though, a plugged jet is hard to unplug... As far as the carbs go they were just cleaned and rebuilt and I just replaced one of the Diaphragms after I got it from the shop the slide devoloped a crack and well when i pulled the cover off there it was in 3 pieces inside the carb so it wasnt moving and that is when I discovered my MotionPRo SyncPro was a one use model... Not really but my opinion there junk cause thats all i got out of it and the first one didnt work at all.... so figured I will order the Carbtune one because im sure there out of Sync the deal with the Carbs was I took them off and took them to the shop to be done to save $300 so I dont know if there is a true way to Sync them on the Bench...
snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 Author #11 Posted August 12, 2016 Glad to hear you all seem to think Carbs... Because I was starting to think TCI issue the number 4 slide appears a little shaky but I wasn't sure if it would cause the stumble.. but yesterday before i took this Video I did get two spits from #1 Carb which is the one with Brand New Slide Diaphragm
snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 Author #12 Posted August 12, 2016 I will add one more thing those diaphragms being new are ***** to get in and to seat right so i may pull it out since its had some heat to it now maybe be more flexible..
snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 Author #13 Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) Ok just an update On what I did today I took the bike to Nevada Mo after thinking it was fixed Twice I noticed the Tach jumped from 4000 rpm to 5400 or so and it was shortly after hitting a bump in the road or something like that But My Instrument cluster is all Haywire anyways like the volts according to Multi Meter are 12.5 on battery while idling until it stumbles some.. Now when I rev it to 3500 rpm I get 13.9 volts all the while my meter on the dash is like stuck up there the temperature gauge is all twacky dont even know what to call what it does reminds me more of a hydralics gauge the dash goes off and on as it pleases the only thing accurate on there is the lights and the speedometer and for the most part the Tachometer... as for the 150 mile road trip after i filled up in Nevada the Bike seem to run a bit better but i would say that my carbs need pulled again and cleaned up and real good being i just had it rebuilt in April so there should be all new parts in there and maybe when i put all the tubes on maybe i got something in them so i will do that over the next few days in no big hurry cause its not a fun job the real part I hate is putting the thing back together cause of the snorkal tube on the airbox Im gonna assume that its number 3 and 4 carbs due to the fact when i got it back they had quite a few parts lose on them.. but will clean them all because im conviced now more then anything it is a jet issue as far the stumbling because it is running just like it did before i did all the work over a year ago and probably pull the tank and check the petcock and the tank and go ahead and change out my fuel filter while I am at it and one thing I will have to do is break down and buy new spark plug wires and new caps... hopefully that will be the end of it but i only pulled 25 mpg on the way up there... and i was averaging 65-70 MPH on a pretty level interstate hardly any hills.. and anything below 3000 rpm she is not liking at the moment.. Ok i do have one question and im sure its been asked due to where the fuel filter is I tried moving it before and ended up rubbing a hole in a fuel line is there any easier place to put the fuel filter so i aint got to remove the end and tank of this bike i would love to have that thing handy so i can change it every few months Edited August 12, 2016 by snyper316
bongobobny Posted August 12, 2016 #14 Posted August 12, 2016 OK the dash anomalies may be due to needing to resolder the edge connectors on the dash board for the same reason as the TCI. Could also be a ground issue. The temp gauge is a known issue of reading too high, it was fixed with the MK2. The volt meters on the 1st gen leave a little to be desired, but they will give you an indication if the charging system or battery goes south...
snyper316 Posted August 12, 2016 Author #15 Posted August 12, 2016 OK the dash anomalies may be due to needing to resolder the edge connectors on the dash board for the same reason as the TCI. Could also be a ground issue. The temp gauge is a known issue of reading too high, it was fixed with the MK2. The volt meters on the 1st gen leave a little to be desired, but they will give you an indication if the charging system or battery goes south... Yeh I have been dealing with the dash or over a year but first time i seen the temp gauge act like a pressure gauge sometimes when i was in the throttle it would wave up and when i would let off it would go down it was about the goofiest thing i seen it do Im gonna take pictures of the Print board and take everything off and clean it up and reassemble it unless this guy comes off his print board high on flee bay.... i bet it will be there when tax season gets here and ill message him and make offer of what i would be willing to pay cause i do understand you cant get a new one no more but what he wants is a little high in my opinion and im sure the temp gauge has got a lose wire somewhere the way it acts...
snyper316 Posted August 13, 2016 Author #16 Posted August 13, 2016 UMM what happens when you have spare parts to the air box on a table the reason i ask and i forgot to mention is the bike only idles and runs funky once its warmed up... so say someone forgot to put the funny looking doohicky on a line that runs down from airbox to the ground and the other piece is made to hold the boots to the carbs just curious if this would have any affect on it ooooo and the air filter is still setting on a chair in the garage? just curious because i know motorcycles love tight airboxes i found these issues as i was getting ready to pull the airbox and pull the carbs...
snyper316 Posted August 13, 2016 Author #17 Posted August 13, 2016 Absolutely not the problem Got to pull the Carbs:bang head::bang head: And one more thing when you relocate the box on top of the airbox which literally puts it next to the radio is it common to lose your radio signal? Not a real big deal as most radio stations are ruined these days so i usually just plug my phone into auxillary but just curious if thats one of the downfalls
snyper316 Posted August 13, 2016 Author #18 Posted August 13, 2016 Evedently there was more wrong with my TCI box then ever thought because i could put the bike in gear with the kickstand down. Now when I put it in gear with the kickstand down it automatically kills the bike also i had it running earlier just to do a lean test with assistance we leaned her all the way over and she shut down which i tipped it over once trying to go out of my driveway around someone and caught the front tire just right and there was just no catching her and she stayed running when that happened sorry to ramble on my forum but these are discovery's I'm making I wouldn't recommend leaning her over tho... But knowing my bike is doing the things it is supposed to do after replacing a TCI Not realizing just how much they control things.. like safety features.. also something else i was able to do with the Old Tci was engage the starter with the bike in gear with kickstand down.
bongobobny Posted August 13, 2016 #19 Posted August 13, 2016 That's some interesting stuff!! Yes, the bike has an "ignition cutoff circuit" that works external from the TCI that turns it off. It is for safety and prevents you from starting in gear with the clutch out, trying to start in gear with the kick stand down, etc. Also I see you found out that there is a tip over safety switch that kills the ignition when the bike is on it's side! You can lean it as far as the crash bars will allow you to, but anything further than that and it shuts down the bike... You can lean these bikes over on turns quite a lot, enough to scrape the pegs!
snyper316 Posted August 13, 2016 Author #20 Posted August 13, 2016 That's some interesting stuff!! Yes, the bike has an "ignition cutoff circuit" that works external from the TCI that turns it off. It is for safety and prevents you from starting in gear with the clutch out, trying to start in gear with the kick stand down, etc. Also I see you found out that there is a tip over safety switch that kills the ignition when the bike is on it's side! You can lean it as far as the crash bars will allow you to, but anything further than that and it shuts down the bike... You can lean these bikes over on turns quite a lot, enough to scrape the pegs! I don't believe I will try that never did on the Yamahammer 350 I had when I was younger Someone painted it Blue and painted that name on but it was a fun little dirt Bike. Which is a reason I said wouldn't recommend leaning it over like that its not so bad getting from 90 degrees on the crashbar but from crashbar on up it sucks lol thats when you feel the weight.
snyper316 Posted August 13, 2016 Author #22 Posted August 13, 2016 (edited) Um @bongobobny is this gonna be Venture Discovery Channel LMAO Im gonna make a video about finding the date code on a tire and what they mean lol:rotf:I message bongo last night because I was concerned about date codes on tires i did searches and well its probably there somewhere in the forum so googled it and found out that my tires being 3508 and 4508 the guy had receipts with the bike that showed he just bought them in January 2013 i believe that is the date the rear one he had just installed the day before i bought it and the front one he had replaced the year before. so when i bought this bike in February of 2015 the tires were out of date which I didn't know about date codes and all that and I would have replaced them this past year if I had known more but that is more to my project bike to get fixed but very useful information to know. Edited August 13, 2016 by snyper316 need to explain this one
snyper316 Posted August 13, 2016 Author #23 Posted August 13, 2016 tire date codes ok so i dont have to make video
snyper316 Posted August 14, 2016 Author #24 Posted August 14, 2016 Ok so I went out to Marie and was looking thru some things and pulled the diaphragm out to check it out it was setting in there nicely just a shame i got to pull the carbs may do that later tonight and disamble all of them but that is the same carb I'm Getting all the sputtering from she does good when she is cool but the minute she gets warm she spits and sputters till I'm over the 3000 rpm mark... Kinda aggravating due to the fact that I just spent $600 dollars getting them rebuilt and had to turn around and replace a diaphragm and the fact I am running two fuel filters to be on the safe side or so I thought drained gas out of tank it all came out nice and clean so next is to pull the sending unit and pet cock out just to have a look see and replace the filters.. probably just put one back on but one of the fuel filters I have that i got the last time has a new design its fatter so probably won't be able to use it. What do others generally run on their bikes.
snyper316 Posted August 15, 2016 Author #25 Posted August 15, 2016 Well today went out to the bike and put the old TCI on it fired up I had left it in my truck for since Thursday but it don't do what it supposed to as far as safety features but did let me know what I needed to know but if one don't have oven just toss it in a car for a few days[emoji12] Sent from my TBQG774 using Tapatalk
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