83 Venture Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

[windrider1983]

83 Venture Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement (This document in Word format attached)83 Venture-Rear-Wheel-Bearings-Replacement.docx. My apologies for the formatting below - outlines don't come out very well in plain text. See the Word doc.

I was experiencing some rear noise and vibration when leaning to the left and it was becoming progressively worse. I had never done the ‘Venture Rear Wheel Service” as documented in the forum (Ozlander 09-17-2015), so I decided to undertake that. I took the original write-up, and broke it down into numbered steps so I could check each one off as I went (I just find that a little easier to follow). I have included that below.

I did not find any problems until I came to the bearing inspection part of the process, I did notice a little bit of roughness in the gear-side bearing (the needle bearing), but even more unusual, there was significant play in the inner bearing collar that forms the inner race of that bearing (it would slide in and out about 3/8’s of an inch). So I decided to undertake a replacement of the entire set. I searched the forums high and low for information on how to do that, and found a number of them, but there are differences between the different generations (to be expected), and there may be differences between the 3 years of the first gens. I can only speak about my experiences with this 83.

After reviewing the various forums, I began the process of ordering the parts.

Here is the complete list of parts as extracted from the YAMAHA parts website

(https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/star-mcy?ls=Star&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/XVZ12TK_-_1983/REAR_WHEEL )

1983 XVZ12TK & TDK per Yamaha's web site

Item # Part # Description Yamaha price

3 93317-32635-00 BEARING, CYLINDRICAL | Use w/Item 28 38.78 kit

2 90560-20235-00 Spacer 19.37

4 90387-200J2-00 COLLAR 14.22

5 93306-30417-00 BEARING 32.18 kit replaced by part # 93306-30437-00

6 99009-52500-00 CIRCLIP 6.41

7 93102-25064-00 OIL SEAL 7.64 kit

12 93440-45022-00 CIRCLIP 6.67

13 93210-68347-00 O-RING 4.72 kit

14 2H7-25315-00-00 FLANGE, SPACER 5.5 partzilla

15 93106-40027-00 OIL SEAL 8.27 kit

28 90387-203H7-00 COLLAR | Use w/Item #3 15.41 partzilla

Total $ 159.17

Don’t let the Yamaha price scare you, as you can’t order any of this from them anyway. I listed it just for reference purposes as I shopped around.

I found a reference in one of the forums to a kit from OEMCYCLE (Pivot Works part # PWRWS-Y23-000) and it was available for $55 so I ordered it. The only drawback was that they did not list the detail parts that were included in the kit. So I waited until it arrived to find out exactly what was in it – those are noted in the list above by ‘kit’ - it was missing two critical parts – Item 14 (FLANGE,SPACER), and Item 28 (COLLAR). The name for Item 28 is a bit of a misnomer as it is actually the inner piece of the needle bearing that functions as the inner race for that bearing (and is the piece that I noted above was moving in and out suspiciously) – the YAMAHA site specifically states that it should be ordered in conjunction with Item 3 (the outer portion of the needle bearing). OEMCYCLE did not list that part as orderable (nor did the Pivot Works site either), so I was able to find it on Partzilla (along with the SPACER FLANGE – more about that below). The parts I did not order and reused were the two circlips, the SPACER (Item 2), and Item 4 (COLLAR) which is more of a washer that is external to the bearings and seals.

I should note at this point, that in my original Service Manual for the 83, the Rear Wheel Diagram (Page 5-7) does not show Item # 28 (the COLLAR that forms the inner race for the bearing) – it is present on the Yamaha Website diagram – I have now penciled it in on my manual.

REMOVING THE OLD BEARINGS:

I searched the forums for some details on this, and was not confident that what I found would actually pertain to the 83. I was able to find a webpage (by searching for the bearing part numbers) which documented bearing removal for an XS11 and looked exactly the same as what I was seeing on the 83 Venture. It was good up to a certain point, but then deviated from the reality of the 83 as I will note below. So here is the link – good pix and text – I will summarize the steps my buddy (Tim Tucker) and I actually took and where we had to deviate from the XS11 procedure.

Link to pix from XS11 Yamaha – had same part # for one of the bearings:

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/repairs/32/193-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-pictorial.html

 

1. Starting on the brake side, we used a seal puller to remove the oil seal, exposing the circlip underneath.

2. We removed the circlip, so the bearing could now be pounded out from the opposite side (in theory, once you have that side opened up).

3. We turned the tire over (setting it on a pair of wood 2x4’s to protect the brake disc) and tried to follow the step in the XS11 procedure – it shows using a seal puller to remove the seal and collar – that does not work for the 83 – the seal and collar are a different part. The seal on the 83 is rubber/vinyl with an external metal ring (that is pressed into the hub) but more importantly, it contains a tiny embedded coil spring – the spring is what prevents the collar from pulling completely out of the bearing. We ended up cutting the outer rubber portion of the seal all the way around until we exposed the spring, then pulled that out with a pair of needle nose pliers. That allowed the inner collar to slide completely out. With the extra room, we were then able to grab the rest of the seal with a pair of diagonals, distort it, and twist it completely out. So what you are left with at this point on the gear side is the outer race and needle bearings.

4. The XS11 procedure now states to hammer out the big bearing from this side, by shifting the flanged spacer over, to gain access to the outer race of the big bearing. This is an oversimplification of what needs to happen (for the 83 at least) and is a good time to describe what is actually in this hub and how it is meant to fit together.

The design is that the long Spacer aligns with the inner race of the large bearing and with the inner race (the ‘collar’ noted above) of the needle bearing so that those parts remain relatively stationary while the wheel itself rotates with the outer races. The Spacer Flange is there to maintain the proper alignment of the long Spacer with the center of the large bearing – because the cavity at that end of the wheel hub is the diameter of the large bearing, so there is all that space for the long spacer to flop around. The Spacer Flange is basically a donut that is the same diameter as the large bearing, and the long spacer fits inside the donut hole, lining up with the inner race. At this point in the removal, we did not understand that. We could not get the spacer to ‘shift’ as the XS11 procedure stated – it would wiggle very slightly, to reveal the edge of the inner race, but no more. We eventually resorted to hammering on the spacer with a large drift pin, which basically distorted the Spacer Flange until the long spacer came loose from the center of the Spacer Flange and was then free to slide all around the inside cavity of the hub, revealing the outer race of the large bearing and making that accessible to hammering with the drift pin. Of course the Spacer Flange was sitting on top of the large bearing, but being thin metal, it was perfectly fine to hammer on it to pound out the large bearing. Once that popped out, the mangled Spacer Flange came with it, and the long Spacer fell out as well.

Knowing what we know now, we suspect that it would have been possible from the needle bearing side to pull the Spacer/SpacerFlange assembly up thru the needle bearing (the Spacer is the same diameter as the needle bearing collar we removed above) just enough so that the Flange portion would clear the housing above the large bearing – it might pivot just enough to get a drift pin down thru the spacers and catch the outer race of the large bearing, allowing you to hammer it out – the next person to follow this procedure will need to update this document with their findings.

5. That left just the needle bearing still in the wheel on the gear side. The XS11 procedure had a picture showing two cutouts in the inner wheel housing that would allow you to insert a small drift pin to hammer out the needle bearing from the opposite side. Unfortunately, there were no cutouts on the 83’s hub. The hub completely blocks any access to the bearing from the opposite side. I considered drilling my own holes, but eventually decided against that. So at this point I cried uncle, and took the wheel to a local bike shop. For a half-hour labor’s charge, they told me that they ripped out the needle bearings form the outer race, then used a small bearing puller that budged it enough so the inside edge of the bearing was then exposed enough to catch it with a drift pin from the other side, and finished by hammering it out.

6. Installing the new bearings: we laid out the parts and slid them onto the axle to verify we understood how it needed to go back together. Started with the large sealed bearing, then the Spacer Flange (open side against the bearing, followed by the long Spacer, then the Collar (Inner Race of the needle bearing) and then the needle bearing itself (which we had not yet greased up and so we did not actually slide the collar into it). This is the point where we first really understood how it all was meant to work. When we initially slid the Spacer Flange up against the large bearing, it was contacting the bearing’s rubber seal and wanted to turn with the outer race. We knew that couldn’t be right, and it finally dawned on us that the long Spacer was meant to fit through the Spacer Flange and thus keep the flange from contacting the rubber seal.

a. So the next step was to insert the long Spacer into the Spacer Flange. This is accomplished simply by laying the Spacer Flange on a flat surface (open side down) and tapping the long spacer through the center until it comes into contact with the flat surface. The end result is the long Spacer protrudes thru the flange to allow it to contact the bearing while preventing the outer edge of the Flange Spacer from touching the bearing seal or outer race. We verified that by sliding everything back onto the axle and now the only parts touching were those that lined up with the inner race of both bearings.

b. Lay the wheel with the large bearing side up

c. Insert the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly into the hub (long spacer first – it will protrude out the other side of the hub).

d. Insert the new large bearing into the hub and gently hammer into place. We used the tip from the XS11 instructions and had already cut a notch out of the old bearing, so we laid the old bearing on top of the new one and hammered on that until the new one was completely seated. The old bearing pops right out of the wheel housing when squeezed with a pair of plyers.

e. Install the circlip

f. Install the new seal

g. Flip the wheel over – the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly should slip back down and sit on the newly installed bearing

h. Grease the new needle bearing

i. Install new needle bearing – again we used the old needle bearing (which we also had notched) as a hammering tool.

j. Apply a little grease to the new Collar (inner race) and insert into the needle bearing (smaller end first). It should butt against the Spacer inside the hub.

k. Install the oil seal

l. Reinstall the hub per the instructions in the Rear Wheel Service document

i. Apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel.

ii. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip.

7. The wheel is now ready for installation.

 

 

Venture Rear Wheel Service You may ask, "Doesn't my dealer do that?" NOT UNLESS YOU TELL, HIM THAT YOU WANT IT DONE. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one.

1. Remove the rear bags

2. Remove the right muffler

3. Remove the rear brake caliper

4. Deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel:

a. Remove the axel cotter pin, washer, and axel nut

b. Remove the caliper and loosen the pinch bolt

c. While supporting the brake torque stopper plate, pull out the rear axel

d. Move the wheel to the right side and separate it from the final gear cases and remove the rear wheel.

5. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft:

a. Remove the final gear case assembly

b. Remove the drive shaft.

6. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease.

7. Wheel cleaning/inspection:

a. Now find a couple of 2" x 4"s and place the rear wheel (spline side up) on the boards.

b. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place;

i. remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the position of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from.

ii. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear

iii. Then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel.

iv. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip.

v. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them.

8. Now for the mono shock pivots:

a. Place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble.

b. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt).

9. Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm.

10. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear.

11. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding.

[dna9656]

I went through some of this, I posted my exp. Balls Are Best has some bearings too.

[bongobobny]

Good write up!!!

 

Yup, I used "Balls" when I redid mine, they are a quality product...

[Freebird]

Good writeup. I will copy it to the tech library.

[Patmac6075]

Excellent article!

[windrider1983]

Good writeup. I will copy it to the tech library.

 

Thanks for the compliments. Moving on to plug wires and brakes. Looking at doing the brake line replacements to eliminate the mushy brake pedal and just improve overall braking. Reading up on the various articles now.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Thanks for the compliments. Moving on to plug wires and brakes. Looking at doing the brake line replacements to eliminate the mushy brake pedal and just improve overall braking. Reading up on the various articles now.

 

Who is that Masked Man? 9 years and 13 posts and he come in and knocks it out of the park. Good job and thank you.

 

Oh crap.... I have been here 9 years too! Back when I had a first gen