Wet around carbs

[Heartbeat]

I know that I have read about this before but I can't seem to find it now by searching. I have a 99 RSV and the choke linkage and area around it is damp with what seems like oil or it may even be varnish residue from gasoline. It has been like this since I purchased it 4 years ago. Should I be concerned about this? If so, what repairs/maintenance should be done? What can be used to clean it safely and not damage other nearby parts?

 

In a related issue, yesterday I stalled it while pulling out from a stoplight. It then didn't want to start so I reached down to choke it only to realize that the choke was actually on part way, when I had distinctly pushed it off 40 miles beforehand. Once I pushed it off, the bike started right up. Apparently it had shifted part way on due the vibration from that 40 mile trip. I saw that there is a spring on it to help keep it off. Is there a way to "tighten" this linkage up?

[bongobobny]

OK first thing that comes to mind with the "oil" around the linkage is there is too much oil in the crankcase. This is a common occurrence caused by overfilling when changing the oil. We all have done it at one time or another. The proper level is about 1/2 way up the sight glass with the bike level (Try a piece of 2 x 4 under the kickstand) with the bike cold, i.e. not running for the last 8 hours or more. 3/4 up is the absolute max you want. Too much oil and it gets blown out of the engine via the breather system into, you guessed it, the air box and carbs!

 

Don't have an answer to your linkage problems other than maybe the excess oil has reduced normal friction on the linkage pieces. Perhaps someone else will chime in...

[videoarizona]

HB...,. You can try to compress the spring... Or take it off and look around some parts stores for a replacement...that is slightly smaller.

That said though, I wonder why your linkage is so loose it vibrates out? Usually, we have to clean and oil our linkage for easier movement. Suggest you check linkage over for worn connections, etc.. Maybe a way to snug up the connections??

 

As far as cleaning up residue, any good cleaner should be fine. Clean up and then watch to see if residue appears. And from where..... Meanwhile, make sure your oil level is 1/2 way up sight glass at BB posted above.

Edited August 14, 2016 by videoarizona
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[Heartbeat]

Thanks for your replies.

 

I do see that the oil level is above halfway and I will be correcting that this weekend when I change the oil and then cleaning up the residue. I also see that, if necessary, I could put a shorter spring on the linkage to put more tension to hold it off.

[vzuden]

The best way to clean up the oil is pull the fuel tank and disassemble the plastic ducting for air intake to the carbs.. Wipe it out with a little solvent on a rag. Then use carb cleaner to spray off the outside of the carbs. Will probably want to put some rags under the carbs to protect and keep clean the side of the engine

[gggGary]

Mineral spirits in a windex type bottle and a tooth brush is my go to.

Odd, my 99 choke doesn't stay OUT. Which is OK this hot summer.

[gggGary]

Are your choke return springs in place?

Edited August 14, 2016 by gggGary

[bongobobny]

Ahhh! With that picture above, follow the choke linkage from the choke knob back to the edge of the carbs. See that phillips screw there?? Well, a friend and I were talking about that adjustment, that sets up just how stiff the linkage is or how hard or easy it slides in and out. It helps keep the choke out when you pull it, the springs want to pull the linkage back in. Could be that screw has loosened up too, but I'm with gggGary on missing return springs combined with the screw being loose.

 

Was that the screw you were talking about @steamer ?

[gggGary]

I think the screw on the rod about 1 1/2" from the knob sets the left / right side choke free play/ balance. On this set the slider tracks under the 4 screws circled in blue were a bit bent bent up. Not sure if it was from a carb pull, install or an attempt to add some friction to the mechanism.

[steamer]

Do not tighten the 4 screws that are circle in blue! they hold the slides that link all 4 chokes together. If you tighten one to much you will bend one or both of those slide bars. I found this out the hard way. The adjustment to tighten the choke is just behind the knob. It's been a long time since I adjusted mine, but I believe all you have to do is tighten the pivot point nut, that's the one with the bent washer locking it in position.

[gggGary]

Steamer is right! bBent the washer back snugged nut about one flat, rebent washer, choke stays on nicely now. Think it's just loose enough it will go in on it's own in a mile or two if I forget.

 

[steamer]

Steamer is right! bBent the washer back snugged nut about one flat, rebent washer, choke stays on nicely now. Think it's just loose enough it will go in on it's own in a mile or two if I forget.

 

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FYI, see that round cylinder looking thing to the left of the nut, there is a spring and tinny ball bearing in there. the ball ride on the plate below it that has 3 notches in it. That give you your 3 positions for your choke. Closed, mid, open. Don't ever take that apart, it's a ***** trying to find that itty bitty ball on the garage floor.

[gggGary]

Hint; when one of those balls does the disappearing act, take a small drill bit and drill on the end of an extra zirk fitting, the ball and spring in a zirk are a direct replacement and come right out a after just a bit of drilling. At least on the Yamaha XS650 mikuni BS34 carbs, I suspect these are the same size. I kinda think mine are already missing, a project for another day.

Edited August 15, 2016 by gggGary