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Posted

I have been having trouble with the kick stand on my 2nd gen. Very difficult at times to move it down mostly but sometimes back up also.

I put the bike up on my Carbon1 stand to work on it. It was totally dry at the fitting so some WD-40 added to loosen it up then some Molly grease as best I could everywhere.

 

My question is, at the knuckle with the bolt through it is there supposed to be play or is it supposed to be a snug fit between the bored holes and the bolt. When the stand is down I can get maybe an inch of play up and down on the stand. Is this ok or is it a sign that the bolt and or the bore is worn or wearing out?

 

Thanks much

Posted

Sounds like you need a new bolt and bushing. I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Can't remember the price but not too expensive.

Posted
Sounds like you need a new bolt and bushing. I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Can't remember the price but not too expensive.

Thanks, I now know there is a bushing in there. I looked up the parts at Yamaha Sports Plaza out of Oregon but the $14.00 USD worth of parts would be $40.00 USD in shipping so I will see if I can get them here in Canada.

But now I know what I have to fix.

Posted

The bolt is what you will need. I would pull it and take a look at it so you can try to match it up. Cain't remember what it looks like but I'm thinking a strange critter....:think:

Posted
You mean some give as the bike leans on the stand isn't normal?

 

Nope! With somebody holding the bike upright, lift up and down on the kick stand, when it's extended. There shouldn't be any, or very little movement. If so replace the bushing and maybe the bolt too.

Posted
try parts shark

 

Ok, local dealer price was very fair at $35.00 but would have to be ordered in and it could take 3 to 4 weeks to arrive from Ontario. Ok it did not take my son 4 weeks to ride his bicycle to Ontario I don't think. So Parts Shark it is, 5 days shipping for $9.00 USD and about $13.00 USD for the parts. I am ok with spending a couple extra dollars to get the parts but no excuse for weeks of wait time in this Global World. Even Canada Post can have it to me in less than a week.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

What a trip around the internet and shops to get the parts. On line order I was told they are back ordered until end of September. Dealer that had told me weeks to get the bolt and bushing had them for me in 7 days.

So now I figure an few minutes and change a bolt right.... wrong.

Who has changed this bolt and bushing. I found a thread that told me to put quarters between the spring windings to make it easy to re move but what do I have to do to get that blasted bolt out? :doh: :confused24: :sign67:

Posted
What a trip around the internet and shops to get the parts. On line order I was told they are back ordered until end of September. Dealer that had told me weeks to get the bolt and bushing had them for me in 7 days.

So now I figure an few minutes and change a bolt right.... wrong.

Who has changed this bolt and bushing. I found a thread that told me to put quarters between the spring windings to make it easy to re move but what do I have to do to get that blasted bolt out? :doh: :confused24: :sign67:

Are you sure there is a bolt and a bushing. As I recall my Gen 1 uses a shouldered bolt although a regular bolt and a bushing would likely work just as well.

 

Obviously, pull the spring before removing the bolt. It shouldn't be too difficult to stretch the spring with the side stand in the up position. Although using quarters or washers to spread the spring is a very good idea. If the bolt is worn out of round then it just might be hanging up. Once the pressure is relieved using a drift punch should pop the bolt out.

Posted

I just changed mine ealier this week. You have to take the two bolts out of the driver's floor board to allow it to drop down out of the way so you can get the bolt out. Took me about fifteen minutes to change mine.

 

 

WIZ

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Nope! With somebody holding the bike upright, lift up and down on the kick stand, when it's extended. There shouldn't be any, or very little movement. If so replace the bushing and maybe the bolt too.

Replaced mine today, bolt, bushing and nut. Still have probably a half inch of play. Doug

Posted
I just changed mine ealier this week. You have to take the two bolts out of the driver's floor board to allow it to drop down out of the way so you can get the bolt out. Took me about fifteen minutes to change mine.

 

 

WIZ

Dropping the floorboard is a must in my view. Tried doing it without and couldn't. For those folks attempting this job, the side stand nut is a real pain to loosen up but it will finally break free once you've cursed it a few times! Doug

Posted

I think thebest advise through all of this was to put quarters in the spring windings. I have been turning wrenches on everything and everything since I was 9 uears old and never had I heard this advice..... it was fantastic.

Posted

Checking play, with the stand in the up position (riding) i have almost zero play in and out ( that would be up and down at the park postition), but when swinging it down (parked) there is not quite 1/2" (thats a 1/4" up and 1/4" down or less when pressure applied) of play at the wire loop. So i checked my bro's '15 Harley and my sons '96 yamaha both are similar no play in the up position but some small play in the down position. I would think some play would be necessary ( how much?) as when you get off the bike the suspension unloads and the angle would have to change, then change back again when you got on.

Posted

I think the point is though that play up and down when stand is extended is "normal"

 

I have checked my wife, Lori, V-Star stand and it has about the same movement.

I think the biggest thing is to lube that joint up with the Molly grease. I believe that was 90% of my problem. My bolt and bushing was not worn visibly, it may mic out poorly but not hugely.

 

what do they say... if it doesn't move and it should...... WD-40

if it moves and should not..............Duct Tape

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