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Posted

I've ordered a Mr Gasket 42 S pump to replace a 2nd dead OEM fuel pump after 143K miles on the bike.... No used getting another OEM just to have it fail again. Seems straight forward for installation and such, however, I could not find info as to whether or not you have to turn the fuel valve off at end of riding day to prevent fuel pass through? Or is it basically plug and go as normal?

 

Thanks for any info.

Posted

Thats on my large list of things to do. I have about 120000kms on mine and its in the back of mind quite a bit while journeying far from home.

Posted

I am pretty sure the 42s does not have the fuel shut off in it. You will need to turn the petcock off to prevent a potential hydra lock. I had one on my last bike (42s) and still have the habit of shutting off the fuel petcock whenever I turn off the ignition.

 

I did hydra lock once (OEM fuel pump) but was extremely fortunate the piston in the cylinder full of fuel was at TDC so no damage at all.

Posted

Somewhere here on the site is a write up I did when I swapped mine over. I did shut off the petcock when I first did the change. Then after a few months I didnt, and never caused me any issues. But it could have been just dumb luck. If the bike was going to sit overnight of a few days I would close it off to be safe. Especially with these high temps. My thinking on this is more heat causes more expansion and if the vent cant keep up it could push fuel thru. Here is the link to the swap over.

Posted
Somewhere here on the site is a write up I did when I swapped mine over. I did shut off the petcock when I first did the change. Then after a few months I didnt, and never caused me any issues. But it could have been just dumb luck. If the bike was going to sit overnight of a few days I would close it off to be safe. Especially with these high temps. My thinking on this is more heat causes more expansion and if the vent cant keep up it could push fuel thru. Here is the link to the swap over.

 

Thanks for that, is there a way to ascertain if there is a check valve? I'm just concerned as the years of never turning it off that I may just end up forgetting and causing more problems than it would be worth..

 

How about the wiring? Straight forward as to which wires goes where?

 

Thanks all for feedback.

 

Cheers

Posted
Facet Fuel Pump # 40178 has check valve and positive shut off/anti-syphon

 

http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106635[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106636[/ATTACH]

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=7550&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=FAC-40178&gclid=CJ_auaSumc4CFQ-IaQodfHMPxw

 

Yeah, that's the one I was thinking of when ordering the My Gasket.. got the wrong one.. No worries, will have to remember to do the fuel valve thing..

 

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well the ol' girl is running again (finally)..

 

I just wanted to add some insight to what happened in hopes that it will help someone along the way.. I did find an older article where someone found himself in the same situation as I did and ended up buying an OEM pump to fix the bike.. I think this may have been his problem..

 

I did end up purchasing the Mr Gasket 42s pump and after what seemed like a lot of running around, managed to find the appropriate fittings to make this pump work as shown in the write up in the tech library.. but I wasn't keen on having to rely on my memory to remember to turn off the fuel valve after each ride.. So though I have the 42s pump ready to roll, I picked up a set of contact points from this source:

 

https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/k-l-universal-fuel-pump-point-switch-kit-18-4615.html

 

The instructions are very simply but I did discover there was one little thing that they didn't hit upon that the novice mechanic might miss.. (not everything is painfully obvious to everyone)..

 

When placing the new contact onto the pump, you have to ensure that the internal plate mates up with the groove on the solenoid piston.. otherwise nothing works.. And yes, it's very very easy to install the points onto the pump without making any contact with the solenoid at all.. Its only after doing a bit of trouble shooting that I looked at the old contact points unit and noticed the wear marks on the internal plate that would suggest the groove on the solenoid.. Once that was adjusted again, all is good. First turn of the key and the pump clicked away like a chipmunk on crack and the bike started with no choke on the first press of the starter.. wow.. nice!!

 

So for $40 odd Canuck Bucks instead of big bucks for an OEM pump, this was a quick fix.. and yes, you might even be able to do it without having to remove the pump from the bike.. (road side repair if you have a gas torch to solder)

 

I'll be keeping the 42s in the saddle bags and ordering another set of contact points just in case.. seeing how this is my third pump failure on this bike with 143K miles on it..

 

Thanks to those with helping advice and suggestions..

 

Time to go riding..!

Posted

I had the carbs on the bench for a float sync, when I removed the fuel line (main switch off) the stock pump let fuel continue to flow. Yamaha calls for shutting off the petcock whenever the engine is off. Should the stocker stop the flow when it's not running?

Posted

Ummmm your flow may have come from the pressure already built up in the lines. Yes, I know liquids can not be compressed, but rubber lines swell up with pressure. Did the flow stop after a second or two, or continue to flow like gravity feed virtually forever??

Posted
Ummmm your flow may have come from the pressure already built up in the lines. Yes, I know liquids can not be compressed, but rubber lines swell up with pressure. Did the flow stop after a second or two, or continue to flow like gravity feed virtually forever??

 

 

Had the carbs clamped level in the vice, ran an extended fuel line over to it from the bike. I had been using a cut open quart oil bottle as a catch pan for the float bowls as I moved the fuel level sight gauge around. I was having one of those OH CRAP moments when I split the coupling, fuel continued to flow and flow and........... fortunately I was able to keep the bottle level, under the loose fuel line, and still reach over the tank and shut off the petcock.

 

rsv carbs 003.JPG

Posted

Just a follow up after changing the contact points on my fuel pump.. I took the bike out for a test run earlier today and wow, what a difference a new set of points make on that pump!

 

Whereas I used to have this weird almost 'lugging' like feel on the bike at certain higher speeds - high gears, it's gone now.. I would hazard to say that it was symptomatic to the fuel pump struggling to keep up with the fuel demand of the engine at that particular speed, gear and rpm. Try as I may, I could not duplicate that sensation on the long test run today. Should that sensation creep back up again later on, I'll be taking a look at those points again..

 

Time to plan a road trip ;)

Posted

Be careful using the mr. gasket pump! They have been known to over pressure the needle and seat and flood the cylinders and dump fuel on the floor.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I have a 2007 RSTD, and had the same stumbling issue. It also died on me a few times. I would switch to reserve and a minute later I was running fine.

I replaced the fuel pump with this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/271850119660

The nipples were a bit bigger, but I got a size larger hose clamps and forced the lines on. Also had to switch the plug, but it runs much better and it hasn't died on me yet.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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