Working the bugs out New(to me)'83 XVZ12t

[yamagrl]

What camos said, but very tight quarters. The covers will come out with considerable fiddling. Getting them back in with gaskets attached is also tricky. A good sticky gasket cement helps hold them in place. Do a trial run without a gasket to figure out the just-right angle of attack.You might also consider replacing the rubbers around the cover bolts.

 

Another thing, use 2nd Gen gaskets rather than 1st Gen gaskets because the former have little tabs on them which make it easier to adjust the fit of the gasket into the slot. Maneuvering the cover into position without disturbing the placement of the gasket can be a real trial. Once the cover is in position be sure to check the joint all the way around for any indication the gasket is not properly aligned. A good flashlight will be necessary for this.

 

 

I used the 2nd gen valve cover gaskets once and they were a little easier, but I didn't like the way they looked, so I immediately shaved off the excess, even the half moons, which was a bit tricky. I have a thing for aesthetics...

 

I'm kind of against using sealer because these are reusable and will last for years.

 

They are a bit tricky to get in place. But once you figure it out the 1st Gen gaskets go right on.

 

What I do is zip tie the gasket to the valve cover kind of snugly on all four "legs" of the valve cover. Once I have the cover in place I carefully cut and remove the zip ties. A thin piece of metal such as banding stock also helps to "shoe spoon" them in. But this won't work very well with 2 Gen gaskets because of the wider tabs.

 

I vote for the 1st gen gaskets.

 

YG

 

[luvmy40]

I ordered some Chinese gaskets and bolt seals today on ebay. I'll keep my fingers crossed that they fit and don't fall apart quickly!

[bongobobny]

A thin coating of grease on the gaskets helps keep them in place...

[luvmy40]

I use Permatex high tack.

[gaj1917]

I use Permatex high tack.

That's the stuff!

[gaj1917]

I used the 2nd gen valve cover gaskets once and they were a little easier, but I didn't like the way they looked, so I immediately shaved off the excess, even the half moons, which was a bit tricky. I have a thing for aesthetics...

 

I'm kind of against using sealer because these are reusable and will last for years.

 

They are a bit tricky to get in place. But once you figure it out the 1st Gen gaskets go right on.

 

What I do is zip tie the gasket to the valve cover kind of snugly on all four "legs" of the valve cover. Once I have the cover in place I carefully cut and remove the zip ties. A thin piece of metal such as banding stock also helps to "shoe spoon" them in. But this won't work very well with 2 Gen gaskets because of the wider tabs.

 

I vote for the 1st gen gaskets.

 

YG

 

 

I used Permatex high tack, but only in the cover groove. I leave the ribbed side of the gaskets clean. That way the cover with gaskets should be removable without damage - I hope!

[luvmy40]

That's the way it works on the XJs. I hope it's similar in this application.

[bongobobny]

Yup! Permatex works great, but you won't get the gasket off in one piece! Grease works fine as a sealant and gaskets generally come off in one piece...

[gaj1917]

Yup! Permatex works great, but you won't get the gasket off in one piece! Grease works fine as a sealant and gaskets generally come off in one piece...

Yes, I use white grease on all other gaskets. Never a problem.

[luvmy40]

Yup! Permatex works great, but you won't get the gasket off in one piece! Grease works fine as a sealant and gaskets generally come off in one piece...

 

Well, evidently it will quite some time before I have to pull the valve covers again and(at least on the XJ covers) there's no reason to pull the gasket off the cover when I do have to check the valves again.

[luvmy40]

The new valve cover gaskets arrived today and the bolt seals were here last week. Now I just need to clear a space in the garage so I'm not splitting her open in the driveway.

 

I hope I can get the old girl up and running before the season is completely gone.

[luvmy40]

OK, the shim removal tool for these bikes is officially the biggest PITA I have ever had to deal with. The Yamaha XJ shim tool is close but there are some very simple work around methods that make it obsolete anyway.

 

The Suzuki GS series shim tool is an exercise in simplicity comparatively speaking. A simple shepard's hook with a cam milled into the sides that can be used in nearly any cam position and rotated manual without turning the crank.

 

Anyway, enough whining. Thanks to Flyin fool for straightening this old dog out on a simple matter that I refused to see!

 

I got all my clearance measurements and a good start on documenting the shim sizes in place. 5 of the sixteen are within tolerance but 2 of those are on the extreme tight side of spec so I will probably change those shims too.

 

One intake valve on cyl. 2 is <.02mm clearance is my smallest feeler that also the cylinder with lowest compression.>

 

I'm done for the night, I'll pick it back up tomorrow afternoon.

Edited August 31, 2016 by luvmy40

[luvmy40]

Valves are all in spec, top end put back together and two bowl gaskets are leaking. Glad I checked them again before reinstalling the carbs!

 

4 gaskets on the way from parts-n-more.

 

The wait continues.

[yamagrl]

OK, the shim removal tool for these bikes is officially the biggest PITA I have ever had to deal with. The Yamaha XJ shim tool is close but there are some very simple work around methods that make it obsolete anyway.

 

The Suzuki GS series shim is an exercise in simplicity comparatively speaking. A simple shepard's hook with a cam milled into the sides that can be used in nearly any cam position and rotated manual without turning the crank.

 

Anyway, enough whining. Thanks to Flyin fool for straightening this old dog out on a simple matter that I refused to see!

 

I got all my clearance measurements and a good start on documenting the shim sizes in place. 5 of the sixteen are within tolerance but 2 of those are on the extreme tight side of spec so I will probably change those shims too.

 

One intake valve on cyl. 2 is <.02mm clearance is my smallest feeler that also the cylinder with lowest compression.>

 

I'm done for the night, I'll pick it back up tomorrow afternoon.

 

How about posting a pic of the gs valve tool or even better a link.

[luvmy40]

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Vavle-Shim-08-0017/dp/B000WJC0D4/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2EB9ZNGSQ2XG2H4RKQ29

 

Here ya' go!

 

No way to make it work on the 83 Venture anyway. No room on half the valves even if there was a round shaft to work with.

[luvmy40]

Set the old girl on fire today!

 

I decide to test the compression now that the valves are back in spec. I have always pulled all the plugs and grounded them to the frame or engine case for compression tests. I read once that it wasn't good for the CDI or TCI systems to crank them without the plug resistance(true/false?).

 

I still have the carbs off and the fuel petcock is turned off, so stuck the fuel line in a plastic cup and turned the key on. Evidently some fuel still splashed down onto the engine because when I hit the stater there was a swoosh and a ball of flame jumped up nearly singeing my eyebrows!. There wasn't much fuel cause it only took a good puff to blow it out but it sure woke me up!

 

The good news is my compression readings are much closer now. 190psi on 1,2 and 3 with 185psi on 4.

 

Still waiting on the new float bowl gaskets.

[rbig1]

yes you need to ground all plugs. I unplug the fuel pump when I do it. Been a while since I have given myself a hair cut. Your local dealer should of had them gaskets in stock they fit quite a few different bikes and brands. Nothing like a wake up call to get heart pumping:fireman:

[bongobobny]

Ummmm, next time unplug the TCI??

[luvmy40]

Stop with your logic. That would have been too easy.

[luvmy40]

Local dealership can order them but they're twice the price and I need the time to make the plastic repairs anyway.

[yamagrl]

Set the old girl on fire today!

 

I decide to test the compression now that the valves are back in spec. I have always pulled all the plugs and grounded them to the frame or engine case for compression tests. I read once that it wasn't good for the CDI or TCI systems to crank them without the plug resistance(true/false?).

 

I still have the carbs off and the fuel petcock is turned off, so stuck the fuel line in a plastic cup and turned the key on. Evidently some fuel still splashed down onto the engine because when I hit the stater there was a swoosh and a ball of flame jumped up nearly singeing my eyebrows!. There wasn't much fuel cause it only took a good puff to blow it out but it sure woke me up!

 

The good news is my compression readings are much closer now. 190psi on 1,2 and 3 with 185psi on 4.

 

Still waiting on the new float bowl gaskets.

Hot damn!

[luvmy40]

Got the carbs all back together and installed yesterday or so and finished up with the air box and cables and such this evening.

 

Applied about 3/4 enricher, turned the key on, remembered I had the petcock turned off, turned the key off, opened the fuel petcock and tried again! Key on, "choke" on, fuel on. Hit the starter and turned her over for about 20 seconds when she caught and rumbled to life!

 

It sounds much better but I only ran it for 30 seconds or so as I have absolutely no ventilation in my garage. I need to mover her back outside to tune the pilot circuits and synchronize the carbs. Then to button up all the plastic...I should have taken some pictures, huh? Been there before. I'll figure it out.

 

BTW, the exhaust tips for a 1986 XVZ1300 are ever so slightly different that the ones for my 83 1200. Maybe it's because I have the big chrome rear skirt? I don't know. They look almost identical and the fit on the mufflers perfectly but the connection points for the spring retainers are different and wont work with the springs that came with them. I tapped one on as tight as I could get it without damaging it and bent up a couple springs. I got them to kind of fit but they're certainly not right. Hopefully they stay in place and keep the tip from falling completely off if it loosens up. They really aren't doing anything to hold it on though. I may just drill a hole from the bottom and run a self tapping screw up into it.

[Prairiehammer]

BTW, the exhaust tips for a 1986 XVZ1300 are ever so slightly different that the ones for my 83 1200. Maybe it's because I have the big chrome rear skirt? I don't know. They look almost identical and the fit on the mufflers perfectly but the connection points for the spring retainers are different and wont work with the springs that came with them. I tapped one on as tight as I could get it without damaging it and bent up a couple springs. I got them to kind of fit but they're certainly not right. Hopefully they stay in place and keep the tip from falling completely off if it loosens up. They really aren't doing anything to hold it on though. I may just drill a hole from the bottom and run a self tapping screw up into it.

 

The exhaust downturn tips for the 1986 are OEM for those later Ventures, whereas the exhaust downturns for the 1983 were a Yamaha aftermarket accessory (ABA-26HCD-08-02) intended to be used with the Yamaha "Deluxe Saddlebag Trim Rail" (ABA-26HCD-08-01). The springs for the aftermarket downturns for the 1983, attach to the downturns and to the Saddlebag Trim Rail, thus springs from the 1986 factory downturns (which attach at loops on the downturns and to a loop on the 1986 muffler) are incorrect for attaching the downturns to the Saddlebag Trim Rail of the 1983.

 

 

Trim Rail, Saddlebag, VentureLine, MKI, ABA-26HCD-08-01 instructions.pdf

 

 

 

[luvmy40]

^^^^^^^

What he said.

[NewbeeMC9]

Got the carbs all back together and installed yesterday or so and finished up with the air box and cables and such this evening.

 

Applied about 3/4 enricher, turned the key on, remembered I had the petcock turned off, turned the key off, opened the fuel petcock and tried again! Key on, "choke" on, fuel on. Hit the starter and turned her over for about 20 seconds when she caught and rumbled to life!

 

It sounds much better but I only ran it for 30 seconds or so as I have absolutely no ventilation in my garage. I need to mover her back outside to tune the pilot circuits and synchronize the carbs. Then to button up all the plastic...I should have taken some pictures, huh? Been there before. I'll figure it out.

 

BTW, the exhaust tips for a 1986 XVZ1300 are ever so slightly different that the ones for my 83 1200. Maybe it's because I have the big chrome rear skirt? I don't know. They look almost identical and the fit on the mufflers perfectly but the connection points for the spring retainers are different and wont work with the springs that came with them. I tapped one on as tight as I could get it without damaging it and bent up a couple springs. I got them to kind of fit but they're certainly not right. Hopefully they stay in place and keep the tip from falling completely off if it loosens up. They really aren't doing anything to hold it on though. I may just drill a hole from the bottom and run a self tapping screw up into it.

 

 

Try turning the key on and cycling the run switch on and off until the fuel pump stops coming on when you do it. will start easier when your fuel bowls are full. Awesome job and thanks for sharing.