What did you do to your venture today?

[Rob Swallows]

I'm shooting at about 10 psi with a 1.4 tip. It is hot and humid I'm was just trying to follow the mix instructions exactly and it didn't say anything about adding reducer. Would a 4.1.1 mix be right?

 

You are compounding your own problem running that high of spray pressure unless using a suction feed gun. What is happening is the atomization pattern is much too fine resulting in free overspray into the air which is cutting down on actual material application rate. This finer atomization results in a very fast "flash off" time for the coating as it is too thinly placed. Personally I use a 1.7mm tip and matching cap but my spray guns are not what we would call "budget" as they cost several hundred dollars each. I use a 1.3mm, or 1.4mm tip and corresponding air cap for base and mid coats, and a 1.7mm tip with corresponding air cap for the high solids clearcoat. That being stated, I "move" and don't dwell around what I'm painting so I'm not removing runs, drips, errors.....

 

4:1:1 will work just fine and it's typically what I use. There will be two or three selections of urethane graded reducer and use the one suited for the temperature you plan to apply in. I typically mix and blend them myself but unless experienced, it's not suggested. Be precise with your intermixing ratios and use cups for this purpose. "Mixit" is a great brand of cup.

 

90+ degrees is not the best temperature to start out with I'll tell you right up front. Far too much compensation needed for satisfactory results to the novice. No disrespect meant but materials aren't cheap as I'm certain you've ascertained so mistakes get costly very quickly.

 

A final note would be to allow 20 minutes of flash time between clear coats. I usually apply two coats which measure about six mil when dry deposition. This allows block sanding down level and buffing to a high and deep luster. Although I used wool pads for years, foam waffle pads are my preference by far nowadays. This is personal preference but the heat you can put into the panel with a foam pad really cuts well and cleans up nice. I use the same materials addressed earlier although with an air sander to color sand except in high crowns and sharp corners/edges.

 

My motto is "no professionals" so don't consider myself anything of the type. I do like to paint cars and restore antique heavy trucks as a sideline hobby:

[Dragonslayer]

You are compounding your own problem running that high of spray pressure unless using a suction feed gun. What is happening is the atomization pattern is much too fine resulting in free overspray into the air which is cutting down on actual material application rate. This finer atomization results in a very fast "flash off" time for the coating as it is too thinly placed. Personally I use a 1.7mm tip and matching cap but my spray guns are not what we would call "budget" as they cost several hundred dollars each. I use a 1.3mm, or 1.4mm tip and corresponding air cap for base and mid coats, and a 1.7mm tip with corresponding air cap for the high solids clearcoat. That being stated, I "move" and don't dwell around what I'm painting so I'm not removing runs, drips, errors.....

 

4:1:1 will work just fine and it's typically what I use. There will be two or three selections of urethane graded reducer and use the one suited for the temperature you plan to apply in. I typically mix and blend them myself but unless experienced, it's not suggested. Be precise with your intermixing ratios and use cups for this purpose. "Mixit" is a great brand of cup.

 

90+ degrees is not the best temperature to start out with I'll tell you right up front. Far too much compensation needed for satisfactory results to the novice. No disrespect meant but materials aren't cheap as I'm certain you've ascertained so mistakes get costly very quickly.

 

A final note would be to allow 20 minutes of flash time between clear coats. I usually apply two coats which measure about six mil when dry deposition. This allows block sanding down level and buffing to a high and deep luster. Although I used wool pads for years, foam waffle pads are my preference by far nowadays. This is personal preference but the heat you can put into the panel with a foam pad really cuts well and cleans up nice. I use the same materials addressed earlier although with an air sander to color sand except in high crowns and sharp corners/edges.

 

My motto is "no professionals" so don't consider myself anything of the type. I do like to paint cars and restore antique heavy trucks as a sideline hobby:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106497[/ATTACH]

Ok obviously you have a much better grasp on the subject then I do. Your response has generated more questions then I can express on the phone using tapatalk. Gimme a minute I'm gonna fire up the laptop.

[Dragonslayer]

OK' I'm gonna try to dissect and digest your comments. So I'll comment in blue to your response on a point by point basis.

 

You are compounding your own problem running that high of spray pressure unless using a suction feed gun. I'm using a gravity feed gun and 10 PSi was what was suggested for the base color coat so I stayed with that pressure. The gun is HVLP and has a max rating of 45 PSI. The air compressor has a 135 PSI max and between the gauges on the compressor output and the gauge at the gun it is hard to read below 10 PSI so requires guessing to fine tune below 10 PSI.

What is happening is the atomization pattern is much too fine resulting in free overspray into the air which is cutting down on actual material application rate. This finer atomization results in a very fast "flash off" time for the coating as it is too thinly placed. Personally I use a 1.7mm tip and matching cap but my spray guns are not what we would call "budget" as they cost several hundred dollars each. I use a 1.3mm, or 1.4mm tip and corresponding air cap for base and mid coats, and a 1.7mm tip with corresponding air cap for the high solids clearcoat. That being stated, I "move" and don't dwell around what I'm painting so I'm not removing runs, drips, errors.....

The gun is new from home depot ($49.95) and came with two tips and caps a 1.4mm and cap were in the gun but also had a 1.8mm & cap and rod. Would the rod in the gun and the extra rod correspond to the two different size tips or are they the same size?

4:1:1 will work just fine and it's typically what I use. There will be two or three selections of urethane graded reducer and use the one suited for the temperature you plan to apply in. I typically mix and blend them myself but unless experienced, it's not suggested. Be precise with your intermixing ratios and use cups for this purpose. "Mixit" is a great brand of cup.

The reducer I used with the base coat is LIMCO LR12 medium reducer. I don't know if it is URETHANE or not and the chemical mix on the label does not mention urethane.

 

The mixing cups I got with the materials were quart size cups. The smallest mix ration for 4.1 was way too much material for what I'm painting (the front fairing, 1/2 of the lower fairing and the trunk lid). So I mixed a smaller amount at 2 parts clear coat and 1/2 part activator and put 4 coats on the 1/2 lower fairing and poured the rest of what was in the pot out. I hate wasting material but did not want to spray the other pieces until I figured out why orange peeling.

90+ degrees is not the best temperature to start out with I'll tell you right up front. Far too much compensation needed for satisfactory results to the novice. No disrespect meant but materials aren't cheap as I'm certain you've ascertained so mistakes get costly very quickly. No disrespect taken.

I agree not ideal so I've been trying to paint early in the morning before the temperature gets too hot but down here in the south the humidity is still pretty high. Since I don't have access to a climate controlled paint booth I've been doing this in the garage. The only solution I know to do is paint at night where the temp is lower.

A final note would be to allow 20 minutes of flash time between clear coats. I usually apply two coats which measure about six mil when dry deposition. This allows block sanding down level and buffing to a high and deep luster. Although I used wool pads for years, foam waffle pads are my preference by far nowadays. This is personal preference but the heat you can put into the panel with a foam pad really cuts well and cleans up nice. I use the same materials addressed earlier although with an air sander to color sand except in high crowns and sharp corners/edges.

 

The product instruction said 7 minutes between coats so I used a kitchen timer. I've been using a soft foam block with paper and is seems to work ok. I'm not confident enough to use a power sander so I've been hand sanding so I could judge my progress slower.

My motto is "no professionals" so don't consider myself anything of the type. I do like to paint cars and restore antique heavy trucks as a sideline hobby: Your input and Insight is much appreciated.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106497[/ATTACH]

[Rob Swallows]

I'm using a gravity feed gun and 10 PSi was what was suggested for the base color coat so I stayed with that pressure. The gun is HVLP and has a max rating of 45 PSI. The air compressor has a 135 PSI max and between the gauges on the compressor output and the gauge at the gun it is hard to read below 10 PSI so requires guessing to fine tune below 10 PSI.

 

The gun is new from home depot ($49.95) and came with two tips and caps a 1.4mm and cap were in the gun but also had a 1.8mm & cap and rod. Would the rod in the gun and the extra rod correspond to the two different size tips or are they the same size?

 

The reducer I used with the base coat is LIMCO LR12 medium reducer. I don't know if it is URETHANE or not and the chemical mix on the label does not mention urethane.

 

The mixing cups I got with the materials were quart size cups. The smallest mix ration for 4.1 was way too much material for what I'm painting (the front fairing, 1/2 of the lower fairing and the trunk lid). So I mixed a smaller amount at 2 parts clear coat and 1/2 part activator and put 4 coats on the 1/2 lower fairing and poured the rest of what was in the pot out. I hate wasting material but did not want to spray the other pieces until I figured out why orange peeling.

 

No disrespect taken.

 

I agree not ideal so I've been trying to paint early in the morning before the temperature gets too hot but down here in the south the humidity is still pretty high. Since I don't have access to a climate controlled paint booth I've been doing this in the garage. The only solution I know to do is paint at night where the temp is lower.

 

The product instruction said 7 minutes between coats so I used a kitchen timer. I've been using a soft foam block with paper and is seems to work ok. I'm not confident enough to use a power sander so I've been hand sanding so I could judge my progress slower.

 

It sounds as if you are using a single stage compressor with onboard gauges. One gauge is to monitor tank pressure, (receiver), and the other is an approximation of regulated output pressure prior to the air discharge line. If you are not feeding your spray gun with either 3/8", or 1/2" air line, you are defeating the purpose of the HVLP equipment as 5/16" airline has too much internal restriction to flow air adequately. The "knockoff" spray guns the home centers market are of marginal quality out of the box and I'm obviously not a fan of them. You are correct in assumption a 1.8mm fluid tip requires the corresponding needle and air cap both for proper atomization.

 

"Urethane Grade" reducers are of much higher quality when manufactured than non graded material. It will state on the product package it is "Urethane Grade". Basically it is manufactured with a much less moisture content than conventional. Moisture is what helps "kick" polyisocyanate materials, (your hardener) over and using non "urethane grade" reducer induces variable(s) into the mix which are uncontrolled. This can lead to problems obviously mostly related to proper drying/curing of the topcoats.

 

10psi on basecoat? WOW!!! That should really be light and iridescent in the face for certain. 4.5-6psi is very common to use in the automotive refinish market for blending and color match with 7-10psi used to bust up the clearcoats.

 

You always set atomization pressure on a spray gun with the trigger pulled back and freely flowing air. Don't be discharging paint but with the trigger pulled back, adjust the spray gun mounted gauge to the proper pressure you are looking for. Set the fan, (width of spray pattern), then fill the fan, (amount of paint applied). Remain back from the surface about 10 inches, and overlap your spray travel about 50% with each pass. Takes practice so don't get discouraged and practice on scrap first.

 

Humidity is where the compensation comes into play with blending solvents. You don't want a fast drying product as the paint will dry with a milky or hazy surface called "Blush". You can't get rid of it as it's moisture trapped in the film. A slow dry allows the moisture to evaporate from the coating but dry time is slow. Nature of the beast really. The slow dry time makes for high solid topcoats liking to run.....Temperature is much easier to compensate for than humidity but once familiar with the materials to be used, it's becomes second nature.

 

I always wait about 20 minutes between coats in both the base and clear stages. Never a problem with heat, humidity or anything of the like. Always better to take a little extra time and be happy with the final result than the alternative.

 

I'm unfamiliar with any of the material you mention. I've always been around the automotive refinish market and have used just about every nationally know brand out there at one time or another. I'm assuming you are using paint marketed as "Acrylic Urethane" and if not the rules for "Acrylic Enamel" are basically the same except ratios are not near as critical. Acrylic enamel "hardener" is a cross linking product not as good as acrylic urethane paint, but much better than straight acrylic enamel paint by itself.

 

I know it's confusing for certain. I can speak this fluently but I've been around the collision repair industry for a few years. Label directions are usually good, but direct experience is usually better for me. You might ask any auto body shop for a few pointers in your area. Not being a competitor to them and wanting to do something for yourself may garner some direct experience in your locale.

 

PM you phone number and I'll give you a call tomorrow. Sometimes it a bunch easier to talk direct as my mind goes a little faster than my fingers.....

[Guest Jamsie]

Rode my 2000 RSV to the hospital , where i had an ultasound scan on my leg, to find out how bad my periferal arterial desease realy is

[gggGary]

Ouch hope the dr's find they were in error and you're just fine!

 

Getting a BP1210/H4 from NAPA (100/80) watt to see how that works and if the wiring can take it...

[cowpuc]

Rode my 2000 RSV to the hospital , where i had an ultasound scan on my leg, to find out how bad my periferal arterial desease realy is

 

OUCH - that sounds like NO FUN Jamsie!!

 

Thoughts and Prayers Up headed your way!

[beastwood]

I went motorcycle camping in the local mountains about 90 miles away. Slept next to rabbits, squirrels, and Stellar's Jays. I'm using a nice fifty dollar tent from Walmart. Takin' it easy.

[videoarizona]

Went for a breakfast ride again on the 89 this morning. It's so nice to cruise the highways at 75mph and relax....

 

(I was really just checking the front end to make sure it was still stable after putting the original fork brace back on...hehe)

[Guest Jamsie]

went to go for a ride , but my battery was flat. maybe i had ignition switch on parking light ( done that before lol )

fixed action cam mount to handlebars. went for garmin virb as my garmin zumo has a remote app for if ever i mount it where i cannot reach the on off button

[snyper316]

went to go for a ride , but my battery was flat. maybe i had ignition switch on parking light ( done that before lol )

fixed action cam mount to handlebars. went for garmin virb as my garmin zumo has a remote app for if ever i mount it where i cannot reach the on off button

 

Um here is a good question why is that there in the first place I did that the first time i road it and locked it at the grocery store came back out and had to roll start it did it again when i got home without realizing it and came out next day to a dead battery so was charging it for well a very long time so thought i had a short hooked the jumper cables to my truck battery and wala now i know why the charger wasnt working the lights came on and found out past lock is where the lights come on..... hooked it back up to charger and let it charge...

[mm482]

Got it state inspected, all was good to go.

[Black wing]

found a set of vmax heads, just getting some more info on it to see if they are any good.

[Sylvester]

Not a thing, with temps around 97-100 and heat index around 101-110, I am not going to sit on that bike to face a blast furnace. Temps at 4:30 AM this morning were 84. I will drive my ac Ford pickup or my ac Mercury SUV thank you.

[Rob Swallows]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?122264-Nice-Gift&p=978442#post978442

[gggGary]

I bought a Utopia backrest from a member but it didn't fit my 6'3" frame. So I took it off and built my own yesterday. I had a memory foam sheepskin back pad from a different bike I put on a backing I made. Supports are 1" X 3/16" from the hardware store. Not much to it and after 100 miles last night 2 thumbs up! With my long frame and +2 ape index the stock handle bars are right where they should be. I have 3 "stock" seats now and am deciding which to keep.

 

The Utopia

 

The one I made the pad has a cross bar with recesses the uprights fit into.

[camos]

I've had the same problem and got to stop be sliding the grommets out and putting a fine layer of silicone along the edge groove of the grommets before sliding them back into place.

 

When the grommets are pulled from the case you should see a groove around the mid-point. The groove should be cleaned out if necessary. Before putting it back together pull the wires in towards the stator about 1 inch. Clean the wires with brake cleaner and after drying, lightly coat the wires with RTV then pull them out again so the RTV is inside the holes. Put a light coat of high-temp RTV in the grommet slot. It is best to do all of this just before mounting the case before the RTV has a chance to set.

 

I have only replaced a stator three times but none of them have leaked yet.

[Uturn 780]

Cleaned the bugs off, then put more on it!!

[gggGary]

Been playing musical windshields; stock, show chrome and bagger shield. For the long road that stock shield sure is quiet to ride behind. The showchrome has a slight tint??? not good for night riding.

 

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/BS-TB-YVT.jpg

[camos]

On my 89 Mk II I pulled the forks, re-packed the head bearings, changed the fork oil, added a pair of gators and bled the brakes.

 

Well, it was two weeks ago but I needed to test things for a while. This was not an afternoon job for me. The whole thing took me 12 to 14 hours over the course of three days. There were, relatively minor, mistakes made that caused redoing some stuff. The biggest mistake was to forget about ensuring the brake lines were routed in front of the lower triple clamp while re-installing the forks. It was for this reason I needed to bleed the brakes after removing the lines from the calipers to re-route them ahead of the clamp.

 

Some things to note:

When removing the top fork plug cap, that's the 17 mm one, loosen the top triple clamp bolt first. (I used a 5/16" bolt as the 17 mm driver for the cap.) The manual says to do this and several members have also reiterated the same thing but I found a number of references to not do this. I can't remember if it was on this site or elsewhere but if the clamp is not loosened the threads on the cap will be damaged to some degree if not destroyed.

 

Before doing this job I talked to a few people about alternatives to using fork oil because it is unreasonably expensive. There is apparently no standard applied across manufacturers to the weight of various oils such as transmission fluid, fork oil or generic hydraulic oil. There is, of course, a standard applied to motor oils but I decided the risk of various additives was too great to consider them.

 

I ended up choosing to use AW32 hydraulic oil which can be found in most hardware stores for less than half the price of fork oil. The main reason why I decided to test drive for a while before reporting was to compare the ride quality with the previous fork oil. I have no idea what oil was used in the forks but it was blueish and might point to a particular brand.

 

The ride with the new oil was the same as it was before, not bouncy, not shuddering just comfortable and no excessive dive on braking. This was with no air added to the forks. Some things of interest to note here, stock springs with just under 40K miles, no spacer, the guides were missing and 5 1/2" of oil measured from the top with forks compressed and no springs. I was quite surprised with this. Is it possible my 89 is one of only a few with the anti-dives actually working?

 

The gators I chose to install were Rancho RS1952 from amazon.ca. They were a perfect fit. The top is slightly smaller than the diameter of the fork tube but can be easily stretched to fit snugly. The bottom skirt is split so the outside edge hangs down and the inside edge folds over the fork brace.

 

 

Edited August 7, 2016 by camos

[XV1100SE]

Yesterday replaced the stator with Marcarl's help and repaired the lower left cowl.

 

Today, mounted the Bagershield windscreen. Will see if I like it or prefer the Clearview.

[slowrollwv]

The only thing I can do is look at mine right now as I have a Scag Super Z setting in front of it. I am putting a new engine on it. Was 20 HP but the replacement is 25HP.I just about have it running bit have to wate on some parts to come in.

[Skid]

I removed the cheap strips today

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160808/5f588d144f1a3724ab05dab633a5ca03.jpg

[Rob Swallows]

Looked at it, debated on cussing it, but went no further except to sweep around it. Too humid for my liking in the garage and elected for some quality time with one of the grand daughters.

[Karaboo]

Well, my maintenance chart says it is time to lube and adjust the steering head bearings, so I am about half way through. The good news: they were not dry. The bad news: I am doing this because I can't go fishing until I get a new starter solenoid for the boat.