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Posted

I bought new twinkie covers and a good friend wants my old ones. I got the clutch side out and changed but I can't get the brake side loose and now I have stripped it out. I started the bike and let it get good and hot but it just wouldn't budge and now it's screwed...literally.

I tried a torx bit but I can't get a good smack on the top of it to get it squared in the hole. I look down the hole on the bolt and it's just perfectly round.

Any ideas? Suggestions?

Posted

Pictures help to show the issue a bit more clearly, can you post some photos?

Often if you can get a Dremmel tool or a hacksaw blade on the head of the screw you can cut a slot in it that you can put a flat blade screwdriver in and use that to break the stuck hardware loose.

Much depends on the actual location of the part.

I do not have my Venture to go look at anymore , but if I am thinking of the same part you are talking about, I recall that part being accessible with the tank still installed, if you remove the tank does that afford you any better access on the head of the screw?

Posted

I think he is dealing with an allen head set screw Steve! I am right now dealing with a similar issue on my front axle covers! Several of them are stripped out and I had to beat them off using a hammer and a wood block to put my new front tire on (an E-4!) I am shopping around for the perfect easy out that will fit properly into the allen head. I'll get back on this in a day or three...

Posted

I don't see how an easy out could go deep enough into an Allen head unless you drill into the head and into the bolt shaft

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Posted

Ahh, yes, that's what I'm researching! saw a set that are squarish with ribs like a reamer. I do have a set of screw retractors that the #2 bit seems to want to catch but ran out of time last night to try out. What is needed is like a stud extractor that will bite into the recess...

Posted

The square extractors are much better than the left handed swirl type but you best drill a straight hole. These tend to push the sides of the broken fastener "out" resulting in further binding of the fastener against it's mating threads. Not enough to worry about unless your pilot hole is not centered. Drill your center hole, "set" the extractor firmly into the bored hole, and while holding downward pressure on the tap wrench grabbing the extractor you are using, turn to remove the fastener. Heat is always good but not enough to discolor any chrome plating or such, and never applied directly to the fastener you wish to remove; only it's surrounding area.

Posted

Try this, facing the twinky use your left hand, twist the twinky counter clockwise that should break the friction grip of the fastener then use a small blade screw driver to back it out.

Posted

I got it out. I used an EZ out. Started the motor up, got it nice and hot and stuck the EZ out in and tapped it lightly to get it to seat in the Allen head. Took some force to break it loose but it didn't slip at all with the EZ out. Quite impressed with that little set! I didn't drill anything. Got lucky I guess. Now I need to find a new bolt. Thanks!

Posted

I bought my set at a little ma & pa shop in a small town. It's not actually called EZ out. The ones I have are called Speed Out. I'm sure it's a knock off but it was a knock off that worked well. I will send you a picture of what mine loom like when I get home.

Posted

That's the same set I already have! Not working for me, the one size just starts to grip the allen head set screw but not tight enough to turn it out. Looking for a smaller stud remover next...

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