Need some measurements or recommendations:

[Rob Swallows]

I'm fabricating a hitch for my 05 Midnight Venture from 3/16" wall 1.25" i.d. square tube. I have the rear wall of the tube 1.250" from the rear tire with weight on wheels and bike level. The horizontal tube is 11.5" from the floor to the center of the tube. The rear fender chrome band is 12.5" from the floor. I can raise the horizontal tube to just below the chrome band easily as nothing is welded yet. As everything is clamped now the center of the receiver hitch is 11.5" from the floor but can be raised to 12" easily.

 

With all that said, should I raise the hitch level to 12"? By the time I weld everything solid and weld the chain anchor plate to the bottom tying both the stinger and receiver tube together, it shouldn't go anyplace.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[Freebird]

I just went out and measured mine. My hitch was made by @Carbon_One . It appears that the rear of the tube is about the same distance from the tire as yours. My other measurements are different probably because I have the leveling links on my '05 and they raise the rear of the bike. Mine measures about 12 3/4" to the center of the tube. The bottom of the chrome fender trim is about 14" from the floor. The top of the tube is pretty much right up to the chrome trim on the fender.

 

I also pull a Bushtec trailer and it uses a pin type hitch that I think with the base and etc., is a little taller than a ball but haven't measured so am not sure. At any rate, I use a stinger with a step down so that the trailer sits level when connected. I think that is what is important. It will depend upon the tongue height of your trailer. You can always build or buy a stinger with the proper step down or step up to level it out.

[Rob Swallows]

I just went out and measured mine. My hitch was made by @Carbon_One . It appears that the rear of the tube is about the same distance from the tire as yours. My other measurements are different probably because I have the leveling links on my '05 and they raise the rear of the bike. Mine measures about 12 3/4" to the center of the tube. The bottom of the chrome fender trim is about 14" from the floor. The top of the tube is pretty much right up to the chrome trim on the fender.

 

I also pull a Bushtec trailer and it uses a pin type hitch that I think with the base and etc., is a little taller than a ball but haven't measured so am not sure. At any rate, I use a stinger with a step down so that the trailer sits level when connected. I think that is what is important. It will depend upon the tongue height of your trailer. You can always build or buy a stinger with the proper step down or step up to level it out.

 

Thank you kindly for your research. I was looking through some photos online and discovered other's tubes about even with the chrome on the rear fender so will raise mine. I was guessing at the tube distance to the rear tire but wanted ample clearance for articulation of the swing arm and rear tire through loading.

 

I know it'd been easier to just purchase a ready made hitch from Carbon One but I've had the materials for this over a year so wanted to expend them; they were purchased for this project.

 

I agree on the hitch or insert type and it can be sized appropriately once I get a trailer either purchased or made as we've discussed. We have a powder coater about four blocks from home whom will get this stuff next week after testing.

 

I also plan to make a receiver insert with a "T" on the end to fly both the "Stars n Bars", and a "Venture Rider" flag such as yours if I can afford it..... I have a 1.25" aluminum square tube of enough length so it will be lightweight and easily removable.

 

Thanks again for your time.

 

Rob

Edited July 10, 2016 by Rob Swallows

[Rob Swallows]

Well today I modified the mount for my hitch receiver and it's just about 3/8" down from the rear fender chrome band protruding rearward of this band about an inch. There is a strengthening band welded around the tube and it will be painted silver to blend in. I've not welded it up solid yet but should get that finished tomorrow as I want to add additional bracing to limit stress imparted to the upper saddlebag mountings . I don't quite know the finished mounting height from the deck as the bike is lifted at the moment for access clearance. After it's welded up solid I'll remove from the bike, bead blast it clean in the cabinet and drop it off to the powder coater for finishing.

[Rob Swallows]

How sensitive are the electronics on this motorcycle to welding? I know to disconnect the battery but anything else to do prior to welding? Would be a lot easier to get a few good tacks into the hitch and then bench weld it solid.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[Freebird]

You need to learn how to take and add pictures here. Don't you know....

 

[Rob Swallows]

I really don't know how to post on this forum although have asked a couple of times in the past. Other forums you just click on the "insert image" icon but this one asks for a http:/ something.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[Freebird]

All you have to do it click on the icon in the menu bar above where you are typing. The third icon from the right is the image insert. You can then type in a URL to where the picture is posted or "upload from computer" to upload directly to here.

 

Another way to do it is to make sure you click on "go advanced" at the bottom right of this box. Then scroll down to "manage attachments". You can then select multiple pictures to upload at the end of your text.

 

The thing that most people have a problem with is resizing it. The maximum picture size you can directly upload is 1024 x 768 and 200,000 bytes. If you don't know how to resize a picture, that is the first thing you will need to learn.

[Rob Swallows]

This has been a learning experience for certain. I've not known you could select from the box that pops open for either a URL, or on computer storage.

 

The hitch photos are the preliminary mock up to test the theory. A little research afterward for final analysis and integrity still needs to be worked out.

 

Hope the carb kits show up pretty quick as the bike is in my garage at home and all my welders are at the shop two miles away. I may cart my little mig machine home this afternoon if the bike is alright to weld while the hitch is clamped into place.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

 

 

 

[TRF VENTURE]

I also have a 05 midnight and for my hitch my brother suggested vertical so when not in use nothing is seen. We made it with receiver vertical and it works great.

[Rob Swallows]

I thought about that for a bit but I like to use a hitch plug showing support of "Children's Hospitals" as I do in my other towing vehicles. Kind of a personal thing as we have many thanks to give for those folks.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[Freebird]

Good job on the hitch. It's going to turn out really nice.

[Rob Swallows]

Certainly appreciate your help. I'm sure we'll meet as I get all over Ohio and the midwest seemingly for work. After retirement I have a lot of folks I'll remain friends with over there as we've helped each out many times through the years.

[Rob Swallows]

Starting to look like something:

 

Clamped for final fitment:

 

 

Additional 1/4" side plating:

 

 

Final resting place being bolted into place:

 

 

Don't know insert stickout requirement and can shorten once ascertained but it's now even with the trunk:

 

 

Camera phone blows with the flash turned on. I'll pull the hitch back off tomorrow and weld it up solid, then trim it out w/torch and grinder for final fitment and cosmetics. When bolted on it ain't coming off too easily. I'm going to run a couple of angular braces from the lower saddlebag mounts to up more centered on the bike to absorb some of the push, (cantilever effect) of the trailer rather than rely solely on the bag mounts to absorb it. Should look alright once powder coated and possibly wear acceptably well.

 

So far been a nice little project as really don't get to do so much for myself or family but we really want to go on this vacation.....

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[Freebird]

Looking great. You will be fine as long as you don't let me do the welding. I think the stinger is too long but I guess it depends somewhat on the trailer. My concern would be that with it coming out that for, tongue weight is going to play a more major effect. Like a lever. Maybe not, I don't know. I don't think it's necessary though.

[Rob Swallows]

Yes, I will be shortening the "stinger" or insert to about 1/2-1/3 of what it is now. This was the length off the shelf and I figure much too long, but still in the dry fit stage. Still going to install the chain anchor plate across the bottom which ties all the members together into a single unit.

 

I'm much more of a repair and streamline type of guy rather than fabricator myself. Having never seen a hitch like this other than a couple of photos leaves my mind to figure it out along the way so to speak.

 

I spend a lot of time in the fields during plant and harvest repairing broken farm equipment using one of my engine drive welding machines. Welding is not hard, just want to ensure your repair lasts can be the challenge at times.....

 

Rob

[Rob Swallows]

Welded up solid tonight and final drilled. All holes align as they should. The "ears" which are more forward of the cross tube under the bike are where the diagonal braces will attach and run up to other support more forward in the bike. I'll make those tomorrow and possibly clean everything up.

 

 

This last photo shows the insert which is to be shortened 3.5" and the .500" hole bored. This will give a "stickout" of about .500" of the ball mounting plate weldment from the strengthening "boss" of the receiver tube. We'll see how that looks.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

 

 

Gonna need to get this wrapped up as there is about four hours in it so far.....

[Rob Swallows]

Ordered a Dexter 600# torsion suspension trailer axle, aluminum 13" rims, fenders, and a few other lights/reflectors, etc. this morning. Should have this stuff within 14 days shipped free to the stocking warehouse in Normal, IL which is 37 miles distant. Also went with replaceable spindles instead of fixed, (welded) just in case a bearing burns up in the future which is another safety factor.

[Rob Swallows]

Well the final installment of bracing and such is laid out and mounted. I think it will suffice as it's good enough for who it's for:

 

This photo is a mockup using stainless load washers and hardware for fitment. The final will be a cored piece of stainless shaft for a spacer so it doesn't rust:

 

This shot is the top of the angle brace to distribute the braking force and forward "push" of the trailer over more than just the rear attachment point for the hitch:

 

These are of the other side:

 

Here is the insert bar shorted 3.5" from the original 8".

 

Tomorrow I'll weld on the safety chain attachment plate across the bottom of the hitch, dress up the welds, and clean everything up in the blast cabinet. It'll then go over to the powder coater whom is awaiting the job. Hope to have it back by next weekend but we'll see.

 

Received a call from the axle vendor today verifying I wanted brakes on this axle against their advice. Yes I want brakes having an older "Kelsey-Hayes brake controller which will be plumbed into the bikes hydraulic brake system for operation. I've had this controller since the mid 1970's and know it won't lock the empty trailer brakes if I don't want it to. This is a case of older and mechanical beats the snot out of new and electronic.

[Flyinfool]

Who says your stinger was to long???

 

My hitch for my 1st gen with fresh wet paint.

 

It feels so good when a project comes together as planned.

 

Nice job.

[Rob Swallows]

Thanks man. Having never seen a bike hitch in person on one of these leaves a lot to the imagination to be functional. Mine will get the top bolster plate also along with the safety chain attachment plate later this afternoon. Right now I'm into carburetors.....

[Flyinfool]

My hitch was all made from 1-1/4 ID x 1/8 wall tubing and my cross tube is in 2 pieces with the receiver tube between. Yours being made from 3/16 wall and having the cross piece as a single piece likely should not need the top plate like I have. my chain plate and top plate are also 1/8 thick. All of my joints are fully seal welded to keep moisture out and prevent rust from starting in any seam.

 

My stinger is made from a piece of 1-1/4 od x 1/8 wall tubing with some extra support welded into the ball end. This saves a lot of weight over the store bought with a solid stinger that is made to hold 2,000 lbs. If you want I can make up a drawing of how I made my Stinger.

 

Something to watch for with the powder coating. If they powder coat the inside of the receiver tube, the paint buildup may cause you to have a hard time getting the stinger in. Powder coat is pretty thick. Mine was painted with Rustolium which is much thinner and it was enough to make the stinger not fit.

[Rob Swallows]

The welds I put down should be near full penetration into the substrate as the heat was almost to spray transfer mode and they too are sealed to preclude rusting. Know what you mean about the powder coating and film thickness. I've had this guy do work in the past and he really does know what he's doing. I know he uses a rubber plug to seal the openings prior to attaching the coating which is removed before baking.

 

My insert is 1.25" solid as that's what was on the shelf. I may run with it and may not. It's a lot heavier than needed in this application for sure but will probably be expended as a template if I find another which is lighter in weight. I don't think there is any 1/8" stock in the shop; only 1/4" for certain which is what I'd planned to use. You're probably right about the top plate being unneeded in this application, but the safety chain attachment plate will be mounted on the bottom side with 1.0" diameter holes for the chain hooks to grab into.

 

Thanks for your insight on building this thing.

 

Rob

[Rob Swallows]

No photos this time but the safety chain anchor plate is installed and two 3/4" holes drilled into it for chain anchor ports. It's welded on there solid and the welds cleaned up so going to shop tomorrow. Also drilled the 1/2" hole through the insert and it aligns good with the receiver. All fits well on the bike so I'm calling it good. I did not install a top plate as the bottom anchor plate is burned in there pretty good so I don't see any horizontal, or vertical deflection of the receiver happening.

 

On another note, here are the tire and fender combination I've ordered:

 

Here is a better photo of the rims:

 

Although the trailer will be a smooth plywood box I'm thinking of painting it silver with black accents, or the other way around. Should go with the bike well either way. All the lights are LED with side markers high and low on the sides and rear, and low on the front so I'm not blinded at night, (jury is out on this one). The interior will be illuminated with six, or eight LED lamps as I used in my trunk which should prove to be very low profile and bright.

 

It's coming together. Hopefully get down to grab some carburetor kits tomorrow after work as I'm local the balance of this month.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[Rob Swallows]

Back from powder coat and all installed perfectly. Almost like it was engineered to fit there.....