Jump to content
IGNORED

Time to upgrade brake lines


Recommended Posts

Guest Jamsie
Posted

While out riding yesterday i noticed the fluid level in the reservoir next to the right air cleaner was very low.

I mistakenly thought this was for checking the radiator lvl as its about the same hight as the top of the rad and close to it .

i checked the coolant and everything is fine. I then took a closer look and discovered it is the rear brake reservoir.

I am not even going to look for leaks, i will replace all brake lines with braided lines on the assumption if the rear has a small leak , how long before 1 of the fronts go.The rear brake feels fine , so maybe no air has of yet gotten into the master , even if it fails i could live without a rear brake , but the front is a different kettle of fish all together

Posted

Check your rear brake pads, the fluid level will also go down as the pads wear and the pistons move farther out.

 

Since you are only finding where the brake fluid goes now, it might just be time for a fluid flush to get new fluid in there. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed at least every 2 years.

 

Oh yea, good thing you did not top it off with antifreeze..............:bang head:

Guest Jamsie
Posted

The words DOT4 on the cap prevented me from topping up with antifreeze:rotfl:

Posted

Yep,, thinking Fool might be onto it Jamsie.. Seems like if you were actually loosing fluid and not just depleting the res to brake pad wear you would notice it big time in an inability to maintain good pressure on the system when you step on the brake - hold down on the pedal or squeeze the brake lever if we were talking front brakes and if it holds pressure - no leak.. Take a peek at those pads - you might be surprised at what you will find!!

Guest Jamsie
Posted

i will look at the front and rear pads on sunday ( working saterday) , but i will still do the braided hose upgrade

Posted

Did mine several years ago. Got the lines from http://www.buckeyeperformance.com Couldn't be happier. I have the Flanders bars and he gave me the correct lengths. 5 lines in all was like $350. plus a discount If you mention... dang don't remember... if you're an ISRA member or a member of this forum or something. Don't recall for sure but it was like $80 buck discount. Anyway, rubber lines are to be replaced every few years. Word of caution when you replace with SS lines it's now like having power brakes so be careful the first few stops. Just looked at the bike, must include the clutch line too.

Guest Jamsie
Posted

Took a look at all pads , they are all between 1/4 and 1/2 worn . my thinking is if it is a very small leak over time , it hasn't yet dropped low enough to allow air into the rear master cylinder. as well as new break lines i have ordered all new pads and the pins for the rear. they look a little rusty and i know that if i reuse them i will have more trouble getting them out next time ( had a 125 gamma with seized pins , luckily the caliper was in 2 halves and i could change pads then do a bleed )

Guest Jamsie
Posted

had some time today to install new lines on my brakes

i removed the front hoses and soon realised there was a big problem.

the yamaha front bake line is 1 hose with a banjo in the middle and at both caliper ends. the yamaha brake lines connect to an elbow under the headlight . the hose from master cylinder has a banjo at either end .

The hel lines have flare nuts and a tee piece , the brake line from the master cylinder was not long enough to allow me to mount the tee piece in the middle , this resulted in the left side not reaching the caliper .

The rear brake line i was supplied with had a banjo at either end ,and nowhere near long enough the yamaha line has a banjo 1 end and a flare nut on the other.

These Hoses are not cheep and i will be calling Hel to discuss returning the hoses

Posted

Ah, yes, trials and tribulations of replacing brake lines! If the kit you purchased was specifically for your bike then they certainly screwed up!! If the kit was just a generic "should fit all" variety then they need to know it won't work for your bike! Either way hope you get your money back, you are right, they ain't cheap!

Posted

I found a guy in Michigan that made my SS hoses, great quality and a very reasonable price (less than $175 for all hoses including 2 piece clutch AND that tiny hose near the rear master)...pm me if you want his info.

I think it's very important to also rebuild the masters and calipers (they just become your next weakest link) when switching to SS lines.

I've found since my total rebuild my linked 1984 system is plenty powerful enough to stop my bike....no issues whatsoever with "anemic" first gen brakes.

Guest Jamsie
Posted

my prob is i live in uk , anything i buy from america costs more on postage and import duty than the item

and this was bike specific kit for xzv1300 TF.

i can get around it by using the line they gave me for the rear from my master as it has a banjo each end .i can buy a banjo with 2 3/8 male fittings that will mate up with the lower lines. for the rear i can use the remaining line and measure for an extention .

just tried to bleed the brakes again, fail again

this time i tried with a tube with a non return valve, but they are still spongey, and as i am at the bars pumping the brake its hard to see if any bubbles are still coming out . will have to employ the wife to help tomorrow

she better or she wont be goin on holiday on sat if i dont get the brakes sorted by then

Posted
my prob is i live in uk , anything i buy from america costs more on postage and import duty than the item

 

Must be a British Empire thing....shipping to Canada costs a fortune too !

Guest Jamsie
Posted

does anyone know what size bleed nipple for the front brakes on 2nd gen .

web moto had 8 x 1.25 mm but the pitch is wrong .

my tired eyes cannot tell between 7 and 8 mm nowadays

Posted

I seriously advise you to get "Speed Bleeders" and the front are SB7100S (7mm), rear are SB8125L (8mm long) and clutch is SB8125 (8mm std.).

 

But this will help you I hope.

 

:farmer:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...