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Posted

Where is the best place to order progressive fork springs for my '84? Also any good links to instruct the task? And link showing how to change fork oil?

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

OK, just received my progressive springs and while I'm fiddling with that, I know I need to adjust the steering neck bearings.. I found something in the factory manual on adjusting neck bearings, but is there something better on here?? (or the other site?).

 

And I read the tech library article on installing progressive springs and seems he cut the supplied PVC spacers down (just cut one in half), and used a factory washer to protect the PVC spacer against the spring end.. Have most others cut down the Progressive spacers just to make it easier to start the fork tube cap nut threads?? Any other pics on that protective washer??

 

Oh, and while I'm at it, my forks dive pretty dark easy now (just bought the bike last year and haven't touched the front end.). Now that might be because I'm real low on fork oil (and with bad fork seals but I'm not seeing seepage and they do seem to hold air), and because my front springs are just donefer (I have about 30k miles on the bike) but I'm also wondering about "cleaning out" the anti dive units.. figure while changing fork oil, I could pull them off but the factory manual says they are non serviceable.. Can I and should I take apart the mechanical antidives (my 1984)..

Posted

Here's a YouTube on XVZ1200 fork seals. Parts 1 &2 (Below)

 

Here's a fork seal write up by Freebird http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?496-Fork-Seal-Replacement

For the upper fork tube cap use a 17 mm all-thread coupling nut http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?120721-17mm-hex-for-fork-tube-caps-2-00

 

I used 5/8" x 24 inches all-thread with 2 nuts jammed together on each end as the special tool to reach down into the tube. Mother Yam has a 24 mm special tool for that. Those nuts are 15/16 (pretty close to 24 mm)

 

IMG_20160724_170659024.jpg

 

For a seal driver I used 2 pieces of PVC (cut down the side) and firmly clamped on to the upper fork tube. Clamp 'em on really tight and slam the lower and upper tubes together. The reason for using 2 pieces is that you can position them better so as to apply the force to the best position on the seal itself.

 

IMG_20160702_102525110_HDR.jpg IMG_20160702_100533139.jpg

Posted
Can I and should I take apart the mechanical antidives (my 1984)..

 

 

I disconnected my anti-dives. I removed the lines to the calipers and put a 10 mm x 1.25 bolt where the line attached to the anti-dives with a new copper washer and then used a single banjo bolt on the caliper. When I redid the fork seals I removed the anti-dives from the lower tubes and flushed out both sides of the anti-dives (brake fluid side and fork oil side) and reinstalled them with new (matched up) o-rings. They have passages for the fork oil so even if you've disconnected them they still need to be there.

 

I used about 2/3rds 10 wt fork oil and about 1/3 rd 15 wt.

 

With new Progressives and a little heavier oil Big Red seems to be fine without the anti-dives and zero air pressure.

 

Be wary about using too much preload. I have 1/2" in mine. I initially installed 1" but it caused the bike to wander and was nearly impossible to ride in a straight line at really slow speed.

Posted

Thanks on that. I pulled one antidive for inspection and when it wasn't interesting, I left the other alone.. (Should have looked). I like your fork oil blend. My progressives came with same size spacers as I had in there. (About 1.25") and since they looked right on preload, I used them. Test ride later today

 

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Posted

Oh Thanks on the other stuff too. I had a 17mm hex key on a 1/2" ratchet drive. I didn't change fork seals as I had no sign of leaking and didn't want to disturb the bear but cool stuff for next time.. Last time i did forkseals, I think I used an old seal and hammer tap around but I like the pvc idea.

 

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