dna9656 Posted June 15, 2016 #1 Posted June 15, 2016 Ok my new '85 has some issues. The Starter clutch needs replaced (I have the one intended for the 83/84) No 2nd gear, hard starting, and the shift rod (item 21 in the picture) seems to wobble yet there is no oil leak. The adjustable link has a piece of rubber hose and tape connecting the BROKEN? adjuster? has tape on it and the other end. The bike has a toe/heel shifter lever on it that has a lot of play inboard to out board. There are floor boards on this bike, In my exp. they just get in the way of shifting, my 83/84 had them. I prefer the pegs with foot rests mounted to the engine bars. I found the wrong spark plugs had been installed; I found NGK#DPR7EA-9S in the holes instead of the DPR8EA-9S called for in the book. The fuel filter looks pretty dark but I haven't removed it yet; I have one on hand. I have not heard the pump run either...yet I drove it home a good 50 miles on Sunday. The left rear carb boot wasn't exactly installed right, and all the boots were loose. The oil in the sight gauge is on the TOP line (when cold) instead of centered in the window where it belongs. When moving the choke lever there is no sense of anything moving, I thought the cable was broken but it's there and moving the choke levers. The PLAN is to install coil over shock ignition coils and the Ignitec ignition but I have to re-program the ignition for a '85 first. Change the starter clutch, as I have a set of new clutch disks on hand so I will install those. Question: Would I get better performance by glass bead blasting the clutch steels or should I leave well enough alone? Of course I will fill the carb bowls with Sea Foam and let it soak for a few days while I pursue the PLAN AND run the obligatory 3 cans of Sea Foam through it once it runs. I have a new oil filter on hand and will change the oil once it's running. The tires look good, I got the error code 4 on the air suspension controller; I have a friend (ex missile tech on Ohio Class Subs) who can fix that for me. This bike is esp. clean! Under the seat, the wires are all bright and nice. I installed the seat my wife bought for me in celebration of our wedding anniversary and my birthday; Both are on the same day! It's covered in real 2 tone leather, heated and extended in the back for her comfort, along with the back rest (mounted on the trunk) and the pad that supports the "small" of the back mounted below the back rest. The fuse box is 100% original! looking under the false tank cover gives me the feeling of what it must have been like being an Original owner; I mean there is a COVER over the fuses! All the in-line (fuses/breakers) stuff is there! It's a dream (or nightmare) come true! So I would LOVE some input from you folks!
NewbeeMC9 Posted June 15, 2016 #2 Posted June 15, 2016 FYI, the clutch and the starter clutch are two different things. And there is a guy on here that does a mod for you if you send him the starter clutch. Read up on the clutch plates and the disc mods. Congrats, thanks, and keep us posted.
BlueSky Posted June 16, 2016 #4 Posted June 16, 2016 NGK#DPR7EA-9S spark plugs are just one heat range hotter which may be a good thing depending on how rich the fuel mix is.
dna9656 Posted June 16, 2016 Author #5 Posted June 16, 2016 Just saying.... Good luck ! Did you not see the diagram from the parts catalog?
dna9656 Posted June 16, 2016 Author #6 Posted June 16, 2016 NGK#DPR7EA-9S spark plugs are just one heat range hotter which may be a good thing depending on how rich the fuel mix is. Well regarless of that, the book says what it says. Most engines in my experience do just fine on the recommended plug. IMHO everything on the engine should be factory spec before you start changing the heat range on plugs.
dna9656 Posted June 16, 2016 Author #7 Posted June 16, 2016 FYI, the clutch and the starter clutch are two different things. And there is a guy on here that does a mod for you if you send him the starter clutch. Read up on the clutch plates and the disc mods. Congrats, thanks, and keep us posted. Yes I know; did I not make that clear in my post? To quote "Change the starter clutch, as I have a set of new clutch disks on hand so I will install those. Question: Would I get better performance by glass bead blasting the clutch steels or should I leave well enough alone?" Seems to me that makes it clear that I know the difference. But thanks all the same.
NewbeeMC9 Posted June 16, 2016 #8 Posted June 16, 2016 No worries, I was confused, coming off nightshift. lol As long as you know what your talking about is the main thing. Was looking in the book, 2.8 mm is the min thickness. I cant say as to benefit of bead blasting the steel disk, maybe somebody will chime in. I would probably do it if had a sandblaster handy to break any glase that might had built up on them.
dna9656 Posted June 16, 2016 Author #9 Posted June 16, 2016 Well with 58k on it I'm sure there is a glaze, but I haven't seen, read, or heard about anyone blasting the clutch steels with any kind of media. I know glass would frost the surface, steel grit would probably ruin the part because it's too aggressive and heat build-up would be terrific. I some times post here right after I get up so I'm not always very "with it" either!
Marcarl Posted June 16, 2016 #10 Posted June 16, 2016 Congrats on the new scoot. Clutch plates are designed to slip alongside of each other, hence a smooth steel plate. If you change that then first off the clutch will grab and go as you release it, there will be no easy moving forward. Not a good thing. Second, if there is wear it will be the fiber plates and they will soon be gone, and all you will have done is to plug up your oil filter. The shift shaft that you indicated runs through the outside of the stator case, so no oil would leak out of there. Yes they can get worn with use, so that point needs to be greased on occasion. In your case if it's really loose your could get a brass insert to fit and rebuild it. If you pull that apart watch that the knuckle behind the stator case goes in the upward position, or the case will not seat easy (it will, but not easy) and shifting will be a total loss.
dna9656 Posted June 17, 2016 Author #11 Posted June 17, 2016 Any idea as to the dimensions of said insert, or a P/N and source? Thanks for the info guy!
Marcarl Posted June 17, 2016 #12 Posted June 17, 2016 Any idea as to the dimensions of said insert, or a P/N and source? Thanks for the info guy! Don't think there is one. Yamaha momma would love to sell one of those overstocked cases they have sitting around, and it's not a happening that is all that common. Most guys leave a bit of grease in that area and that seems to solve any forthcoming issues. You'll have to make one, or go to a local bearing dealer to see what they have and then work it from there. Ask away if you need more info. Lots of guys on this site can steer you right on the process.
dna9656 Posted June 17, 2016 Author #13 Posted June 17, 2016 Don't think there is one. Yamaha momma would love to sell one of those overstocked cases they have sitting around, and it's not a happening that is all that common. Most guys leave a bit of grease in that area and that seems to solve any forthcoming issues. You'll have to make one, or go to a local bearing dealer to see what they have and then work it from there. Ask away if you need more info. Lots of guys on this site can steer you right on the process. Well with 5 other 1200s i probably have a good case....
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