CMC Pickup Truck Parts Fiche ??

[Squeeze]

Hey Folks, i'm looking for a Parts Fiche for my 1997 GMC C1500 4WD Pickup Truck.

 

I'm looking at Problems at the Drivetrain, be it Drive Shafts Bearing or the Differential and would like to find a Parts Diagram similiar to Yammi IPC or several other Parts Catalogs.

 

Do you know an Link to such a Site ?

 

I did a lookup at Google, but i seem to use the wrong Keywords.

[PA RIDER]

Squeeze.

Try, Pavement Sucks .com. It is a chat, tech. site like this one. for trucks.

Might find one there.

 

PA RIDER.

[Squeeze]

I've checked it out. No Luck :confused24:

[dray]

what is it doing that you have a problem

[Squeeze]

Rear Axle is rumbling. We opened the Cover and found some Slack in the Pinion Gear, but not excessive. We found the Gears in the Diff are moving a bit more than they should. There is too much Freeplay and one of two Gears is tilting inside the Case or the Bearing, IF there is a Bearing which can be dismounted.

 

If i would have a exploded View of the Axle and the Diff, we could continue to take it apart in a safe Manner. Currently, we have no Clue how to get the Shafts out.

 

I believe there are Bearings on the Gears which transfer the Power from the Diff Casing to the Shaft Gears, don't know the exact Name of them in English (Differentail Gears?). I have only a Haynes Manual for the 1988 to 1993 Trucks and the Axle appears not even close to be the same. It's a 14 Bolt Cover and as i researched, this is not so common on these Trucks. I think it's a 9.5" Ring Gear.

 

One after another, i start to dislike this Ride. I had to replace the Diesel Computer, which one smart GM Engineer placed right on the hottest Spot of a V8 Engine inside the "V". Shop here quoted more than 2000 Euros Cost, without Labor replacing the whole Injection Pump. I bougth a remanufactured Pump with Computer by Ebay Amerika, did cost me 650 Euros with all Taxes and Customs. Mounted by myself with a self made extended Wireing Harness to get that Computer out of the hot Spot and on a self made a Cooler Assembly.

 

After we got it running again, Transfer Case and front Drive needed massive Overhaul. Quote was another 2000 Euros. We fixed it for 280... and 30 Hours Work.

 

This, all in all did cost me around 10 Months downtime of the Truck. Ok, it's more a Toy than a needed Tool, but anyway.... very annoying

[dray]

the last rearend i rebuilt cost more for parts than you could buy a good one from a salvage yard and it took me most of the day but if you want start by taking off the wheels and breaks youll find 4 bolts on the outside of the axles remove them and the cover on the pig youll need to find the bolts or retaning pins inside the pig and slide the axles out then pull the gears and once you have all that out you can pull the pinion but keep a eye on all the spacers you will need to have a set of feelergages to put it all back togeather so you can set your backlash its not hard to do

 

you can pull the #s off the gears inside the pig to get the parts you need from a good parts store or your GMC / chevy truck dealer if you change the bearings on the axles you will need a good set of torches and a press for that job

 

to get the backlash right dont be suprised if you have to pull it apart a few times and then put it all back in each time

 

last one i did was a 88 GMC short box 4x4

[Dano]

Squeeze, can't help with the online manual, but here's my experience.... blew one out while snow plowing......... Inside the case you will find a small screw horizontally on the right side of the pinion (opposite the ring gear) which is holding in a round pin (1/2" or so in diameter)(called the pinion shaft). Remove this screw and remove the pin. You may have to rotate the differential to see it. Then rotate the differential till you can see inside the guts. I assume you have the wheels and brake drums off. Have somebody push in on the axle flange at the brake drum and you will see a C clip on the end of the shaft inside the spider gear set. Remove these clips and the axles should come out. Assembly is the reverse. CAUTION: some models have a thrust washer in the differential, make sure it doesn't fall out when the driveshaft is removed.

 

By the way, I found this in my Haynes manual #24064 for 67-87 Pick-ups, page 8-9 & 10.

 

This is for a semi-floating rear axle, the one above is for a full-floating axle

 

Hope it helps,

Dan

[Squeeze]

Dray, i'm in no Doubt that a used Diff from a Salvage Yard would cost a Lot Less than rebuilding mine. But here, is NO Salvage Yard that carries such Parts.

 

Tools are not a Problem, i have everything needed and a Lot more.

 

Meanwhile, i found a Pic. In Fact, it's more a Clymer Manual i bought during the Transfer Case/Transmission Crisis and just plain forgot about it. :whistling:

 

It didn't help at that Time and i misplaced it somehow. But as i wrote a Posting about where is the Pickup Coil Connector, it came up in my Mind and when i got Home half an Hour ago, i found it ...

 

Just for the Record, it's soooo easy to pull the Shafts out. Just undo the Wheels, Brake Drums, Axle Cover, undo the Lock Screw, pull the Pinion Shaft half out, push the Retainer Clips into the right Position, push the Shafts towards the inside, undo the C-Clips and pull the Shafts out carefully. Now here's where the Clymer ends. But not me.

[Squeeze]

Squeeze, can't help with the online manual, but here's my experience.... blew one out while snow plowing......... Inside the case you will find a small screw horizontally on the right side of the pinion (opposite the ring gear) which is holding in a round pin (1/2" or so in diameter)(called the pinion shaft). Remove this screw and remove the pin. You may have to rotate the differential to see it. Then rotate the differential till you can see inside the guts. I assume you have the wheels and brake drums off. Have somebody push in on the axle flange at the brake drum and you will see a C clip on the end of the shaft inside the spider gear set. Remove these clips and the axles should come out. Assembly is the reverse. CAUTION: some models have a thrust washer in the differential, make sure it doesn't fall out when the driveshaft is removed.

 

By the way, I found this in my Haynes manual #24064 for 67-87 Pick-ups, page 8-9 & 10.

 

This is for a semi-floating rear axle, the one above is for a full-floating axle

 

Hope it helps,

Dan

 

Hey thanks Dan for taking the Time to Post. I think you have a Bike to repair ??

 

You better get busy, there's a serious riding Season on the Doorsteps.

 

As i wrote Minutes ago, this Axle is a bit different. Because of ... i don't know of U-shaped Retainer Block inside the Guts, you have to turn the C-Clips in a horizontal Position before pushing the Shafts in. The Shafts won't move in when the C-Clips are off that Position. At least this is was Clymer states.

[Dano]

WAKE UP SLEEPY HEAD!!!!!! Ahhh, that was time between work and time to go to boys baseball game (life interferes!). Finish up taxes tonite. (This is break time between game and taxes)

What you got there is a "locking" differential. The one I was describing was a "posi-trac" diff. Forgot to post about the difference in 1st post. You should see 2 little pins on the side of the spider gear case----- this is what makes it "lock in" both axles instead of letting one slip as in a posi-trac. Good luck with your "TOY"!!!!

 

Dan

[tooldood]

Is this what you want??

[dray]

Dray, i'm in no Doubt that a used Diff from a Salvage Yard would cost a Lot Less than rebuilding mine. But here, is NO Salvage Yard that carries such Parts.

 

Tools are not a Problem, i have everything needed and a Lot more.

 

Meanwhile, i found a Pic. In Fact, it's more a Clymer Manual i bought during the Transfer Case/Transmission Crisis and just plain forgot about it. :whistling:

 

It didn't help at that Time and i misplaced it somehow. But as i wrote a Posting about where is the Pickup Coil Connector, it came up in my Mind and when i got Home half an Hour ago, i found it ...

 

Just for the Record, it's soooo easy to pull the Shafts out. Just undo the Wheels, Brake Drums, Axle Cover, undo the Lock Screw, pull the Pinion Shaft half out, push the Retainer Clips into the right Position, push the Shafts towards the inside, undo the C-Clips and pull the Shafts out carefully. Now here's where the Clymer ends. But not me.

 

dont forget when you pull the shafts your going to need new seals to put in to one on each side its not worth trying to reuse the old ones

[Squeeze]

Is this what you want??

Sorry, no, but thanks anyway.

 

dont forget when you pull the shafts your going to need new seals to put in to one on each side its not worth trying to reuse the old ones

 

We have had bought the Seals and Wheel Bearings since the last Repair.

 

Short Update, the Diff is out, we decided to leave the Diff in one Piece, since we found the Bearings on the Pinion Gear worn out. This came to Light after the Shafts and Diff were out. The Seal was leaking a bit since Years, but got worse over the last Month. We will replace the Bearings on the Pinion Gear and the Wheel Bearings as well as the Oil Seals affected. Then keep the Fingers crossed for a smooth drive. If this doesn't help, we have to undo the Diff again and see how we can get behind the centrifugal Clutch and Diff Lock Mechanism.