CLASS pump & manifold

[garyS-NJ]

I got rid of the E1 code by reflow in solder but now I can't get much pressure and it shuts off with an E2 code. Soapy spray air leak test found leak at input of dryer (o ring missing) & pump body seam (dissassy that next). But my solenoids are funny. Even on the bench with common 12v applied (verified right into solenoid poking wire) & grounding each black control wire), the rear shock solenoid actuates with a loud clunk but the front and discharge solenoids only actuate an out 1/8" (should be enough?). I took the front and discharge solenoids off to verify clean and not sticky.. comments on solenoids?? & and suggestions on sealing the pump and testing it? (I'm looking for Guage & fittings now)...

[Prairiehammer]

There have been some instances where the desicant has broken down into fine, dust like particles. This dust has been known to migrate to the solenoids, causing sluggish solenoid operation as well as poor sealing in the solenoid valve seat. Silica gel debris may also get into the "reed valve" (a one way check valve of sorts). If the reed valve leaks back, the compressor may be working too long without sufficient pressure build-up, causing the E2 error.

[Kiwiroyale]

G'day Gary, as per my post on this subject back in December 2015, I unfortunately do not have anything more to help you with other than E2 is PERMANENT and has a result I am awaiting Earl (skydoc_17) to hunt me out another Class Controller, as this is where the problem is I believe. As previously mentioned in the December post, all the literature I have read on this code relates it solely to the Class Controller (circuit board) NOT pump/solenoids/or any other mechanical items. I stand to be corrected on this by the very knowledgeable people on this site.

 

With regards to the solenoids, yours are displaying exactly the same as mine, healthy clunk from rear and minor "throw" from other two, in either case I managed to "jumper" the respective solenoids and move air into front and rear, so I assume this "throw" is normal. The "ride height" has remained unchanged since December last, Tanz and I have had added around 2000kms of comfortable riding since then, with no noticeable loss in air pressure (new seals at the same time to the forks).

 

You mentioned that an "o ring" was missing from the input dryer, so I assume your dessicant is "wet"? Thoroughly clean this and replace with new dry dessicant( don't want wet air in your shocks causing rust when you get her up and running)

 

This (no, "o ring") may reduce pressure into the dryer but it should still output enough to get things going, as it were.

 

With regards to the pump body seam, do you mean it was leaking? I am out of town at the mo, but I will check mine when I get back, from memory though that would take a fair amount of pressure to "pop" that seam even though it is made from Aluminium.

 

Furthermore, I believe this whole system is a relatively LOW PRESSURE application, and needs to be treated as such.

 

I will keep scanning my memory though mate.

 

Steve

[garyS-NJ]

Kevin, I just re upped my subscription here and your help alone is worth 20X the $12. Thanks. And Thank you Kiwi for also sharing.. I Forgot to mention, I found my input air filter very clogged blowing & sucking either way and only when I crushed in did it open up.. (yes, & I sucked in a bunch of particles of IDK what.). I'm inclined to fab some sort of foam filled canister otherwise ideas on that? And my dryer was pretty clogged (again the suck/blow!) but on dissassy, I found the desiccant beads mostly intact and just the foam filter ends a little compressed. I tried to work them around and reassembled but thinking more about how that things should be way free flow, I'm going to take it apart again and wash the foam (or replace). And I'll try baking out the desiccant but I have to wonder just how long it takes for that stuff to go pink (the cartridge says service every two years - but I'd like to meet one guy who does this.). Come to think of it and the whole CLASS and pump thing I have to wonder what Yamaha was thinking mounting all that crap instead of a couple valves and gauges.... In fact, seems with the progressive springs, folks don't even need air up front so again, WTF Yamaha? (but I do know thatsome sport/tour bikes (many?) have pressurized front forks. - I don't like the idea of trying to keep pressure in there..). I didn't remove my rear shock solenoid because I couldn't hit the screws and it seems to actuate well but nice to hear Kiwi above saying they all need not clunk to be within normal (and good god, I hope it isn't the controller but I think I at least the H setting button (or manual add air) is inoperable but I could come back to that...). I did take the time to wipe the solenoid piston and bore and see a little lubrication in there.. (BTW, THERE WAS LUBRICANT IN THE MANIFOLD AND DRIPPING OUT OF THE SHOCK LINES WHEN REMOVED FROM THE MANIFOLD). And I actuated the solenoids by hand a bunch of times trying to loosen them up but then firing them by grounding the controls never changed the action. The solenoid piston head washers looked clean but I didn't really look at the seats.. (whoops, rechecking that...). Reed Valve?? - I didn't see anything on the manifold at the dryer line in side but the other side had a black plastic thing with an electrical connector and two screws.. it was very hard to not take that apart and I think I'll leave it until I test BECAUSE I REALLY THINK MY ISSUE WAS THE PUMP PRESSURE. Yes, one connection leak was fixed by installing a missing o-ring (maybe I lost that the first time I took the dryer off!) and the pump body seam had a slight air leak too. But I'm thinking the pump should have had enough pressure to overcome these small leaks. Kevin that link you shared about the guy who shimmed the pump piston ring came in handy. Taking my pump apart, I did see the seams were treated to some kind of sealant but not on the entire seam, whoops, so I think I got that fixed on assy with some rubber glue. and my piston seemed to slide a little too freely in the bore. so I removed the nylon looking piston ring and put a wrap of medical tape in the groove before re-installing the ring. It was a little tight so I cleaned the bore with a dremmel scrub pad and reassembled sounds like the pump is a high compression motor percolating.. (actually I did one test with the head valves upside down and then another test it ran good and then I sealed the case and left it for the night..

[garyS-NJ]

mission success. I worked the class in manual and auto through low and medium settings (manually that's about 14psi up front and 42 psi rear.). I didn't want to see it not work so I didn't try the high setting figuring at my weight and with kind of loads I haul (petite), I might not ever need the high setting. I don't like the seat being a little taller but I'm totally floored with the ride (CLASS wasn't working when I bought it last year and so I've been riding with zero pressure in the suspension.) I figured out how to open the input air filter (duh) and replaced the petrified crumbles of old foam). So it was just shimming the pump piston ring.

[Kiwiroyale]

That is absolutely BRILLANT well done Gary!!!

 

Now a question for you, are you saying that E2 code is repairable? a yes may potentially save me a lot of money.

[Prairiehammer]

That is absolutely BRILLANT well done Gary!!!

 

Now a question for you, are you saying that E2 code is repairable? a yes may potentially save me a lot of money.

 

From the Service Manual:|

"E2 code: Air pressure does not rise when the air compressor is operated."

 

The causes include worn compressor ring, leaking connections, clogged intake filter, clogged air dryer, unseated solenoid valve(s), reed valve (acts as a one way check valve) defective or dirty.

[Kiwiroyale]

From the Service Manual:|

"E2 code: Air pressure does not rise when the air compressor is operated."

 

The causes include worn compressor ring, leaking connections, clogged intake filter, clogged air dryer, unseated solenoid valve(s), reed valve (acts as a one way check valve) defective or dirty.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]105553[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]105554[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks Prairiehammer!!!

I went back through the notes I made at the time of my "repair", it was the E5 code I had displayed, (apologies for any confusion) however the E2 continually appeared, and as with Gary I did notice a very "sloppy" comp piston, i will now revisit this again over winter.

[garyS-NJ]

Yes, the shimmer piston ring fixed the E2. The input air filter was too clogged I'm sure even with the piston shimmer but I took the filter off fist thing and didn't replace until the fault code was gone. I never got into the reed valve.

[edtheguy]

Hey guys, had an E4 error . Got a complete replacement unit from Michigan motorcycle sakvage. Installed it, still

Getting an E4 error, any help would be appreciated.

[Freebird]

Sounds like you simply replaced a bad one with another bad one. The answer is to resolder the connections on the circuit board. There is a "how to" in the first get tech library.