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Posted

Finally decided to get caught up on repairs.

First, background: Just after I got the bike, I was up in the woods on a dirt road and was turning around...backing the bike up off the crowned surface. Went to put left foot down while backing and nothing there. Down I went on left side...scratching and cracking the left side fairing just under the mirror. Boo Hiss!

 

IMG_20160506_092138_493.jpg

 

So finally decided to repair that area. First I put 6 layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy on backside....

 

IMG_20160510_140846_481.jpg

 

Then...added some thickened epoxy to top surface to fill in the cracks and give me material to "fair" the surface...ie...sand it down level to normal surface...

 

IMG_20160517_134752_697.jpg

 

Sorry picture is so blurry... then I sanded it down by mouse sander at 120 grit then by hand down to 2000 grit...silky smooth.

 

IMG_20160519_144057_471.jpg

 

And that is where I sit today. Color Rite sent out the wrong color..it seems they transposed two numbers....this is what they sent. MAK 5410 (she said it should be 5401)

 

IMG_20160519_142418_123.jpg

 

I sent the above picture and 3 others for them...plus the proper Yamaha code (again) and Daniela at Color Rite is going to make the correction (after confirming color) and get another bottle of spray color out to me.

 

I must say their response has been very good so far. The kit is well thought out and complete. Only thing I didn't understand was the touch up pens: Didn't know if I needed to shake them (Yes) and how to clean the tips (Tips come out and can be cleaned with normal mineral type spirits...like a brush).

 

In the meantime, I repaired one plastic vent vane and two tabs. Will touch up those areas as well. Then on to the rock chips on the front fender of the silver RSV. That silver is going to be a bear...ugh. Well...more learning ahead with the touch up pens!!

 

So on hold until tomorrow....or next week when new color can arrives...

 

To Be Cont'd....

Posted

Yup!! I'm sure several of us have dropped a 1st gen due to that!! I dropped mine coming out of a country parking lot with a dip down before the road. Had to come to a stop at the edge of the road as I wasn't totally convinced nothing was coming. My foot went down,and down, and down...

Posted (edited)

Well...not so good news from Color-Rite.

:rant:

It seems they did send me the right formula..only it wasn't the right type of paint. The Yamaha paint formula is based on lacquer paint. It seems lacquer paint is against the law in California. Color-Rite's ONLY formulation plant is in California. David can't get the proper color paint for his bike due to the idiots in California. OF course, Color-Rite isn't very smart to be based out of there either with this kind of regulation hurting their business, but I digress. Especially since they can no longer make or sell paint based on older color lacquer. David isn't a happy camper.

 

My choices are to send them a part for matching...and no...they are not willing to be responsible for the part while it's in their hands (smart decision that)...and wait up to 3 weeks ... or get a refund after I send the products back at my expense. I suggested that wasn't going to fly. They can pay for shipping back to them. No decision on that yet.

 

So there we are. Guess I'll go for the refund unless someone has a small piece of 1989 plastic body in Dull Blue Cocktail they want to ship to Color-Rite for me.

 

Now to find another paint supplier that isn't located in California......and understands customer service a wee bit better than Color-Rite.:soapbox:

 

Stay tuned....

Edited by videoarizona
turn rant on
Posted

I have a friend in the auto paint business here in Tucson. You can take a panel in to them and the computer matches the color and you can get any type of paint you want. You won't get Californicated here ...yet... but they are trying ....

Posted

Any good auto paint supplier can do a color match while you wait.

A color match will match also match any fading that has happened over the last 30 years, color rite type places will match the factory spec which may no longer match the rest of the paint.

Posted
Any good auto paint supplier can do a color match while you wait.

A color match will match also match any fading that has happened over the last 30 years, color rite type places will match the factory spec which may no longer match the rest of the paint.

 

 

Im so glad you said that they would match color fading. Ive been asking around with no good answer. I have a sticker from the factory and want them to get the paint as close to original as possible

Posted

If you bring them a panel to match they will match that panel. If the panel you bring is faded the new paint will match the faded paint. If you are repainting the whole bike and want original color then you need to have them mix it to the recipe.

Posted

Color-Rite did say they would match if I sent them a part from the scoot. But they were not willing to take responsibility for the part while in their possession. Plus, she was three weeks behind in matching work...and I wasn't willing to put up with them any more. Paint kit went back for refund today.

 

I did go to the local paint shop and ask them what they could do. They painted the fairing on my 05 and did a decent job at a fair price with a lifetime guarantee. They educated me about painting with this type of paint (temperature sensitive, primer sensitive and gloss overcoat issues). I took what they said as gospel and am waiting to see what they come up with for the cost of a pint/quart of paint. I want to spray it myself.

 

I'm also waiting for Bill to come up with his painter's phone so I can get up there. It's ok if he gets busy....I'm not in much of a hurry as I've already forgot how to put the scoot back together so now there's no rush! :doh:

 

In other news, did find some paint that is very, very close to the factory color on the silver RSV. At Wal-Mart yet. Since I'm going to be touching up tiny rock chips in fender...I think this stuff will work. In Automotive section, Rust-Oleum High Performance Wheel paint. Silver looking cap. Works with metal or plastic. Slightly lighter than the "Silver" Rust-Oleum in the spray paint section.

 

Also picked up a can of gloss clear coat in auto section as well. Says UV Protection and no yellowing formula. I'll spray on a clean surface and use a tiny artist type brush for hobby use to paint the rock chips after I sand them. Was given a tip to put a piece of heavy duty paint tape or masking tape with a hole in it about 3X size of chip hole. Sand with that over chip. Clean and paint same way...masking everything around area. Sounds like a perfect way to not mess up the factory paint.

 

And so it goes...

Posted
Im so glad you said that they would match color fading. Ive been asking around with no good answer. I have a sticker from the factory and want them to get the paint as close to original as possible

 

CJ, not sure that is a good idea unless you are painting the whole bike. After all these years, there will be some fading from UV and weather. Paint to the formula will not match the old stuff well. Just an FYI....

 

I didn't care as I was only spraying small areas of the 89. If it didn't blend perfectly...oh well...I thought. Now, I think I'm glad Color-Rite couldn't do the job....I know whatever I get from a paint match off of an old part will be very close indeed. That makes me feel a bit better.

Posted

Just take your gas cover plate over to Finish Master at Grant & Stone, Southeast Corner, they can match your color and discuss the type of paint best for what you are doing.

 

You got me thinking of taking all the plastic off of the 87, repairing and prepping it and then repainting it to a color I like then switching it out with my 89... :cool:

Posted
Just take your gas cover plate over to Finish Master at Grant & Stone, Southeast Corner, they can match your color and discuss the type of paint best for what you are doing.

You got me thinking of taking all the plastic off of the 87, repairing and prepping it and then repainting it to a color I like then switching it out with my 89... :cool:

 

I've got the fake gas tank cover over at Duval Paint here in GV. I took it over yesterday. Waiting for a call back on a quote. I'm taking off for Phoenix this evening on the RSV. Be back on Tuesday. I'll get the cover over to Finish Master Wednesday if I can.

 

Thanks, Bill...

Posted (edited)

Well, finally heard back from Duval Paint. They never called me with a quote, just made up the paint. Don't know if that was my mistake (Pat says no, I did ask for a quote) or theirs. Regardless....the saga continues.

 

These guys do good work though. The paint match looks so close....it really depends upon how you look at the swatch vs the tank cover. I know that's because it won't match perfectly until I've completed the entire process of color layers and gloss layers....then eventually buffing it out...but it does look good.

 

P6020002.jpg

 

So now have to wait until I can devote a half day to painting the parts. But first, tomorrow morning when it's around 80 degrees, I need to stir/mix the paint thoroughly then transfer it to a metal container I bought from TrueValue hardware (under $3) and keep it stored at a decent temperature until I can paint.

P6020003.jpg

 

Progress....

 

Now I should know tomorrow whether I'll be in Payson at the cabin next week watching the contractor remove the bees from the fireplace chimney and making repairs....or staying home and painting the scoot!

 

Question: Spray with real gun or use a hobby spray gun ? Thoughts?

Edited by videoarizona
add info/ask question
Posted

No idea brother,,, I tried painting the sliding door on a Chevy Van once and ended up with the paint being 3/4 inch thick and it never did harden .. Just wanted to give ya a :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: on your project - THAT IS GOING TO BE GORGEOUS!!!:thumbsup:

 

:think:,,, now stickers,,, I could help ya with stickers :backinmyday::happy34:

Posted

Spray gun works very well. First thing I did was clean it. The little manual that comes with it is wrong on a couple of points...but after spraying the gun using water, I was able to figure it out. The pattern and color knobs are reversed from what the manual says...at least on the one I got.

 

After cleaning, I put water in the cup and went outside and sprayed the house testing different pressures and air/water mix. Found that the air valve needed to be wide open and the color valve near the closed position gave me a nice even spray pattern with very little overspray.

 

Dried the gun then put it away until an hour later when it was warm enough to paint.

 

I put on two coats of color and two coats of clear. Cleaning the gun between each use. Pretty easy to do that...just ran cleaner through the gun, then washed and rinsed the cup and nozzle. Dried it with compressed air and ready for next use.

 

I found two errors in the job:

 

1: Despite my best efforts...I found little teeny pits and scratches I didn't see when fairing and sanding. This was after the first coat had flashed. To late now. Note to self...maybe I should have paid more attention when I washed the area after sanding...might have seen the pits and scratches.

 

2: The paint people told me only two coats of color to get the right tint....sprayed lightly and evenly. Well that was easy to do. Only problem is I should have done one more coat. Each coat is slightly darker than last. And after I clear coated and let that tack...I peeled off the paper and tape masking the job areas and noticed the paint is a touch lighter. Guess I should have yanked off the masking stuff and checked color before clear coating. I looked real hard after the second coat and thought it looked very good. Well...not until you compare the areas beside each other with all tape and paper removed could I see the difference. What's interesting is one area I painted is almost a perfect match, the other is easy to see the color difference. Guess I must have put thicker layers on the area that matches well!

 

Now I have to wait a week or so then buff out and blend in the masking lines....

 

Interesting experience...never painted anything like this before. I'm pleased with the equipment, not pleased with my prep or technique. But for a first time, I can't complain to loudly!

 

P6040004.jpg Disregard the light reflection on top...that really is painted nicely! Obvious difference where masking line is. This area used to look like crap as that's where brake fluid got on paint last year....so it's an improvement but not perfect...

 

P6040005.jpgHere you can see the center section is different from the bottom (original) and top (new). Must have not put quite so much on this center area as the top looks like a good match with bottom.

 

Live and learn.....to be continued...

Posted

Not bad for a first try.

When doing color it I do not mask and just let the color over spray blend the new and old together, then clear the whole panel. It is really hard to sand and buff that clear masking edge to make it disappear and blend. At least it was for me.

Another trick is to move the mask line down to the pin stripe and the vertical one forward to the bolt hole for the chrome part. this helps to hide the edge and any color mismatch.

 

I suppose I should get ambitions and go work on painting my saddle bag lid to match the rest of the bike. I may also then clear both lids just so the gloss (or in my case, the orange peel) matches.

Posted

Nice work David!!! I look forward to doing a personal inspection of this paint job in July when I'm back in Arizona. :beer:

 

Have you got enough paint left over to do my bike AZZI and cover my 1986 baby poo brown..:crackup:..I love that pretty blue from 89!

Posted
Not bad for a first try.

When doing color it I do not mask and just let the color over spray blend the new and old together, then clear the whole panel. It is really hard to sand and buff that clear masking edge to make it disappear and blend. At least it was for me.

Another trick is to move the mask line down to the pin stripe and the vertical one forward to the bolt hole for the chrome part. this helps to hide the edge and any color mismatch.

 

I suppose I should get ambitions and go work on painting my saddle bag lid to match the rest of the bike. I may also then clear both lids just so the gloss (or in my case, the orange peel) matches.

 

Good points! I like the idea of not masking for the color! Thanks Jeff. I may sand her down and do this again. I have paint left over...

Posted
Nice work David!!! I look forward to doing a personal inspection of this paint job in July when I'm back in Arizona. :beer:

Have you got enough paint left over to do my bike AZZI and cover my 1986 baby poo brown..:crackup:..I love that pretty blue from 89!

 

LOL! James, put your glasses on and look at the pics again! Grins!

Lots of paint left over, but I may do this job over again when I get back in town in a week...

Posted (edited)

One trick I learned from my friend is that once you finish sanding, use a light spray of black primer then sand it off. If there are pits/scratches they show up with the black paint in them and you can see the low spots when block sanding. You have given me the idea of pulling all the plastic from the 87 (now a parts bike) and slowly fixing all defects and then eventually painting them to put on the 89. That way I can change colors if I so desire....lol

Edited by KIC
Posted

@KIC, I decided to go ahead and sand off the 1st attempt and try again. I'm getting down to where I need to get some primer. Will try gray color as I don't want to change the base color of the plastic to much or the paint may not match or look right. Don't know as I'm new to this. Wrenching is one thing...painting is another!

 

Next few days will tell...

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