Bushwacker Posted May 14, 2016 #1 Posted May 14, 2016 Here we go again I ve been using Yamaha 15-50 Syn since 2009 would I have any problem with bike going to Rotella T-6 Syn
Marcarl Posted May 14, 2016 #3 Posted May 14, 2016 Now that is a pretty slippery subject,,, gonna grab a coffee and see how this turns out. My opinion: use what you want, the bike doesn't read.
cowpuc Posted May 14, 2016 #4 Posted May 14, 2016 Now that is a pretty slippery subject,,, gonna grab a coffee and see how this turns out. My opinion: use what you want, the bike doesn't read. ,,,,, I hope you know your on the verge of losing your 3 Mouthketeers membership
Larry1963 Posted May 15, 2016 #5 Posted May 15, 2016 An oil question and it is spring and not winter LOL
Bones Posted May 15, 2016 #6 Posted May 15, 2016 I have used it before. I didn't have any problems with it. More specifically it is not energy conserving so it should not have any appreciable amount of Molybdenum in it to cause clutch problems. Of course it is the proper weight at running temp so all is good. And yeah, whats up with the the spring oil thread! lol
RedRider Posted May 15, 2016 #7 Posted May 15, 2016 It is no longer winter - oil threads are banned until November. RR
Bushwacker Posted May 15, 2016 Author #8 Posted May 15, 2016 Leaving for South Dakota in June just wanted to know if changing to Rotella T-6 after using Yama oil might create leakage with gaskets. I used it in Goldwing years ago no problem but used it when I first got wing
Yammer Dan Posted May 15, 2016 #9 Posted May 15, 2016 Pick ANY Good oil and change it as you should. No Problem. I use Castrol 20/50. Have since 1964. Never a oil related problem. Just saying. " Silver" may get something different. But that 10 buck a Qt. stuff??
cowpuc Posted May 15, 2016 #10 Posted May 15, 2016 You should be fine switching over Bushwacker.. Just make sure you dont over fill and you swap out the filter in the process so you get as little mixing of synthetics as possible,, IMHO. One of the pretty neat things that I like about using old school dino oil like YammerDan mentioned is, again - IMHO, you can find 20/50 dino about anywhere and mixing em up doesnt really seem to hurt anything.. I usually come home from a month of travel on Tweeks with a mix of 20/50 from Family Dollar, Walmart, Auto Zone or even that gas station at the entrance of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (you dont want to buy your oil there - I paid 9 dollars for a quart of dino oil - and the old girl always seemed to appreciate what ever I stuck in her.. By the way,, I am not sure what all the hub bub is about you bringing up the oil subject ,,, after all,, its still winter here:sign67:
djh3 Posted May 15, 2016 #11 Posted May 15, 2016 Ran the Rottela T6 almost the entire time I owned my RSV. When I didnt run it I had Mobil 1 20w50 in it. I ran it in my 900 Vulcan also. It is a JSMO rated oil, so all is good there.
Bushwacker Posted May 15, 2016 Author #12 Posted May 15, 2016 Cowpuc I know you live in winter country had son living in Battle Creek retired from Air Force and came back to almost winter country. Thank everyone for your responses Bushwacker
Yammer Dan Posted May 16, 2016 #13 Posted May 16, 2016 HEY PUC!!! I value your opinion somewhat. The Boss ran Mobile One Racing 4T in Silver. Not to tic him off but I just think it is a waste of money!! Sorry Boss. I haven't bought oil for it yet ( only put little over 3k on it) and might still get the Mobile One But I'm thunking of going with Rotella so I can stay Synthetic since it is used to that. I like to keep one on a steady diet of what they are used to. That being said I haven't ruled out the Moblie One but 9+ bucks a Quart here. I just cain't see it. Your thought on that switch??
Freebird Posted May 16, 2016 #14 Posted May 16, 2016 I don't think there is a problem at all changing oil brands. Whatever you decide should be fine. You know that I am biased towards the Mobil 1 and that is what I'll be putting in the '05 but I certainly understand people who think that spending that much on oil is crazy. They are probably right.
Yammer Dan Posted May 16, 2016 #15 Posted May 16, 2016 So you are admitting you are as crazy as the rest of us???
bostonlawman2003 Posted May 16, 2016 #18 Posted May 16, 2016 I have run Rotella T6 in my 05 since I got it about 6 years ago. I have never had a problem with it except that the motor always had something I would deem as a "knock" to it. Didn't matter what fuel I put in, she always just had a knock at idle. Started having clutch slipping last year and took some advice from the braintrust on here and switched my oil to Valvoline 4T 10W-40 full synthetic oil last week when I changed in hopes of helping my clutch a little (didn't help, still slipping, going to install the new clutch next weekend), but I did notice this weekend that the knock at idle is gone. Did several hundred miles this weekend with the wife and no knocking at all. So yes, I'm crazy because between oil, filter, and taxes I spent $60+ dollars on my oil change last week, but, my motor doesn't knock anymore! Just my
Bones Posted May 16, 2016 #19 Posted May 16, 2016 Leaving for South Dakota in June just wanted to know if changing to Rotella T-6 after using Yama oil might create leakage with gaskets. I used it in Goldwing years ago no problem but used it when I first got wing The old Synthetic issue with causing gasket leakage is no longer around. That problem has been fixed and now the stuff of legend. You may switch without fear. I heard it from a friend...
comingbackdown Posted May 16, 2016 #20 Posted May 16, 2016 I've been having the same debate with myself here lately. I've been running the 15w40 and was a bit leery about running the T6 considering the weight change, but from what reading I've done it allows immediate oil flow on startup. Still debating.
Yammer Dan Posted May 17, 2016 #21 Posted May 17, 2016 Looked thur Auto Zone's oils today because I had nothing better to do. There sure is a bunch of them anymore. I may go with the Mobile just because I've always liked to keep them on what they are used to. I wouldn't want to go Dino with it now I don't think but I have some in the garage and I already have a filter......:Avatars_Gee_George:LOL. I really don't think brand is anywhere near as important as regular changes. I'm thinking this fancy oil could go a little longer??? I always tried to change Dino at 3500. I'm thinking 5000 with this stuff?? Longer would hurt my feelings. I would be Offended!!!
Freebird Posted May 17, 2016 #22 Posted May 17, 2016 I wouldn't hesitate to go 5,000 with the Mobil 1. Probably any other oil for that matter. I am moving all my vehicles to 5,000.
Yammer Dan Posted May 17, 2016 #23 Posted May 17, 2016 Yeah I've thought about it but that 3500 is stuck in my head. All the oils have improved so they say.
Lug Nut Posted May 17, 2016 #24 Posted May 17, 2016 I don't think there is a problem at all changing oil brands. Whatever you decide should be fine. You know that I am biased towards the Mobil 1 and that is what I'll be putting in the '05 but I certainly understand people who think that spending that much on oil is crazy. They are probably right. I went from Dino oil (previous owner had oil changed every 1000 miles at dealership) to Castrol full synthetic 4t and it was smoother running. Then switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic 4t and AGAIN smoother running and quieter (only had few hundred miles on Castrol). I did NOT notice this difference ony Roadstar when I went from Castrol to Mobil 1. I think different engines do prefer different oils. Another thing....I went to O'Reillys Auto Parts and they had the big gallon jus od Mobil 1 synthetic car oil on sale for $25.99 or $27.99....they do NOT make 4t MoBil 1 synthetic in anything put quart bottles. So in asked if I could get the same deal for same quantity and they agreed. So I bought all they had in stock....something like 20 bottles for about $5.50 a qt instead of $10.99. Never hurts to ask...!
Mike G in SC Posted May 17, 2016 #25 Posted May 17, 2016 (edited) Here's an observation. A couple of months ago I changed my 2009 RSV and 2006RSTD from Amsoil 10W40 (used since I got them) to Shell Rotella T6. Did this on many folks recommendation, here, other forums and friends. Did it for cost, availability and curiosity. But I noticed on the RSV that, once the bike is warmed up, changing gears has become clunkier sounding. No slipping, no other problems but making more like a HD clunk going from second to third and third to fourth. Not as noticeable from first to second and to fifth. Not noticing the same on my RSTD, but that bike has a Barrett plate. My RSV is still stock (yes at 77K miles). So, this week, on my RSV, I went back from Shell Rotella T6 to Amsoil 10W40, after only 1600 miles. This seems to have remedied the majority of the clunk. What I did notice about he Rotella compared to my 10+ years of Amsoil is that when the Rotella was draining from the bike, it appeared much thinner than I am used to seeing from Amsoil. Also, sticking my fingers in the old oil and doing the pinch test, the Rotella does not have the slippery factor near what Amsoil had. I have never seen a negative post on Shell Rotella T6. I know I'm going to get feed back about how great T6 is,,, but I'm done and gone back to Amsoil. Just my observation,, Mike G in SC Edited May 17, 2016 by Mike G in SC
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