Numorous questions on 1st gen

[Rags06moto]

hI guys, just picked up an 83 vr with 24k, I need to repair a couple things. It over-heats on a short ride, the brakes are super spongey and weak, the warning light blinks with the battery indicator on. Thanks for any help!

[Patmac6075]

Really need more information....has the bike been sitting? Have you done any work on it already?

if it were my bike I'd start with the routine maintenance, change all fluids (might clear up your overheating issue and spongey brakes). There are copies of the original shop manual in the First Gen Tech section. Read through all the routine maintenance, and do them one at a time.

These bikes are almost bullet proof, and if you keep up on maintenance they'll last well over 200k. Just as as a ballpark figure, you should expect to dump nearly $1000 into one of these bike ($1000 IF you do the work yourself), if you're expecting to bring your bike up to snuff.....

 

Which warning lights are blinking? And the battery light could be just a simple bypass wire (A member here Skydoc sells a kit, or you can DYI....it's pretty simple).

 

Also....pictures always help

 

And welcome aboard....you find many knowledgeable and helpful people here on this site.

Edited May 14, 2016 by Patmac6075
More information

[Venturous Randy]

I want to also extend a welcome and the best bang for the buck is joining this group. It will be the best $12 you will ever spend on your bike and we come along for free.

Randy

[Wizard765]

The warning light is almost always because the battery doesn't have the place for the sensor.. The original batter has a sensor hole. This can be fixed with a resistor in line of the sensor then attached to the battery.. There is a tech article on this in the tech section.

 

With it being over 30 years old if it still has the original brake lines and clutch lines you might want to consider changing them.. braided lines make a very noticeable difference on those bikes. Skydoc_17 has a kit to change those. If you want to delink the fronts that can be done at the same time.

 

Over heating could be just a flush BUT it could also be the water pump. The early models had a plastic impeller which over time could break down..

 

Keep in touch and feel free to ask away as you get into the project.. You will most likely get lots of responses and some of them might even be right..

 

Welcome aboard..

[bongobobny]

Yah! WELCOME!!

 

Besides what was already mentioned, it is a known fact the '83, '84, and '85 temperature gauges read high to begin with. Is it pegging out or just coming close to or touching the red?? if it is just reading near the red, that is unfortunately normal; the bike is not really overheating, the gauge is misreading. Here's a link to a current thread in the watering hole with LOTS of info on overheating, yes or no.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119421-Over-heats-at-every-light

 

Sooo, I have to ask, is your fan coming on at all? At extended stops only?? All the time?? If all the time then unless the sensor is bad or the relay is stuck you ARE indeed overheating, flush your cooling system, check your thermostat, etc.

 

Here's a link to the battery electrolyte level sensor override...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?489-Battery-Warning-Bypass

 

Also a known fact with the 1st gen MK1 is the brakes ARE anemic at best!! There is a reason they upgraded the brakes on the MK2 ('86 - '93)! If you keep the stock MK1 system, as suggested upgrade to Stainless Steel lines, makes a big difference! Also, you do know that your rear brake and one of the front brakes are linked together, right??When you hit the front brakes you are applying only one caliper on the front. Also, on the MK1 the hydraulic anti dives also rob braking power. On the MK2 they went to electric solenoids driven by the brake lights for the anti dives. There are two debates going on, one dealing with de-linking the brakes, the other on whether the anti dive is worth the effort to even have.

 

It is very common for MK1 owners to swap out the front forks, or at least the lowers, with MK2's so that they can use 4 piston calipers, either MK2's or much better, calipers from a Yamaha R-1 or R-6! The rear caliper can be swapped out but the stock one is basically OK seeing as MOST of the stopping is done with the front brakes. The swap over to 4 piston MK2 is a little more complicated but doable.

 

Bring on the questions and problems, we will handle them one at a time...

[Rags06moto]

Thanks for all of the info guys, the heating prob is the gauge gets very close to the top, the fan does turn on, the system was flushed out about 8mo ago, carbs are fresh and mercury sync, it has been sitting for 4 years since the last time it was riden, prob 8 years sitting prior. The bike is immaculate, I'll try to get some pics on here. Its from the original owner, has all the tools, chainlock, cover, and original rainsuits in their bags, as well as original owners manual. I just want it to be right before I take it on a ride. I have seen a few posts about 12w or heavier oil in the forks, I can bottom them pretty easy with 21lbs air and anti dives at 3.

[bongobobny]

OK how hot out is it out, and WHEN does the fan turn on, at a stop or while riding??

 

Heavier oil is probably NOT your answer, replacing your tired out old springs is the answer! Springs just get worn out with age, and you probably still have the original springs in there! A pair of new Progressive springs only runs a tad over $75 and are better than stock!!

 

There is no "setting" for anti dive! That switch is for dampening or response on the REAR shock only. Anti dive is front shocks only. When you brake the natural tendency of a bike is to "Dive" down in the front, as does a car when you slam on the brakes. The anti dive system on the front shocks energizes a solenoid which restricts the displacement of oil from the bottom of the shock making it much stiffer. On the First Generation Mark 1 which is '83, '84' and '85, the anti dive solenoids are a hydraulic solenoid that are hydraulically connected to the front brake calipers and are actuated when you apply the brakes. By now you should have noticed that the braking system on the MK1's are a little anemic and so Yahama replaced the hydraulic power robbing solenoids with electric solenoids operated by the brake lights on the Mark 2 Venture, '86 to '93. They also replaced the 2 piston calipers with more efficient 4 piston calipers on the MK2 for better braking power.

 

Anyway, with new progressive springs, and new bushings and seals while you have them apart, you probably will notice you don't even need any air pressure at all, or only a couple of psi if you really like a stiff firm harsh ride. The slightly heavier oil, and/or extra oil in the shocks just makes the hydraulic response even slower making for a stiff shock. Also just recently someone noted what he called "pogo'ing" effect while riding at lower speeds and the thicker oil corrected this...

[Patmac6075]

Rags,

I just completed a total front end and hydraulic rebuild and all I can say WOW! It's like night and day! I went all stock (except stainless brake hoses and EBC pads) and I cannot complain about the brakes at all....I can only imagine how much better it'd be if I'd done the upgrade to 4 piston calipers!

its also hard to believe how inadequate the stock springs are, a member (VanRiver) just posted pix showing the difference between Progressive Suspension springs and stock springs. Once you switch you won't have any bottoming out issues.

And FYI, I'm the guy with the pogoing issue.....my advise is stay away from 10wt fork oil....others claim 15wt is too heavy, so look for some 12.5wt and that should be "just right".

Edited May 15, 2016 by Patmac6075
punctuation

[Rags06moto]

Thanks for the reposnses guys, sorry I haven't updated. I just got back home, and took the bike for a short ride. Overheating is a non issue, I will purchase the progressive springs and stainless brake lines, while riding, it appears my rear caliper or master cylinder stuck! I smelled brakes, pulled over and had to open the rear bleeder to release the pressure and ride home with just the front brake. I think an entire brake rebuild is in order. The battery blinking warning light is still on, there is a green wire that is plugged into the top of the battery and appears to be in working order. Does anyone have a link or phn# for,the guy that sells the brake line kits and progressive springs?

Thanks guys!

[bongobobny]

OK the guy to call is my good friend Earl Harrell, Skydoc_17 on the site. His cell is 814-937-8743. He will get you all set up with what you need.

 

The battery warning light: OK what that "sensor" on the battery does is detects the level of electrolyte in the battery. As long as that probe is submerged in electrolyte it actually works as a voltmeter probe halfway across the battery and sends a lower level voltage to the CMS as a logic level voltage to turn the light out. If your battery acid gets low the probe is no longer submerged as it stops sending voltage to the CMS, the light turns on! As long as your battery acid is topped up the light SHOULD go out, but, as the probe gets old it develops a coating on it turning it from a conductor to an insulator! Pull the probe out of the battery and try cleaning it with a paste made from baking soda and a drop of water. You can also sand it clean with some very fine sandpaper, like 800 grit paper.

 

Rear brakes: Was the level of brake fluid too high??? As brake fluid heats, it expands. If you do not have a significant volume of air in the reservoir the brake fluid has no alternative than to push the brake pistons out applying the brakes! The brake fluid reservoir should only be filled half to 2/3 up, just like the front brake and clutch reservoirs being filed up around 1/2 way to 2/3 way up the sight glass with the reservoir setting level.

Of course you could have an issue with a plugged up rear master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc. but because you mentioned the problem occurred while riding i.e. warmed up it makes me think overfilled reservoir...

[Rags06moto]

Thanks alot! I will call him and get some stuff orders. I will check the level on the rear fluid. I sure would like to ride this thing!

[cowpuc]

Thanks alot! I will call him and get some stuff orders. I will check the level on the rear fluid. I sure would like to ride this thing!

 

Once again - LOTS of great advice happening here,,, gotta join in the fun!

Hey Rags,, your sticking brake issue sounds really familiar - especially since you were able to release pressure off the bleeder and didnt have to smack the side of the caliper to get the pistons to return (had that been the case, I would be guessing corroded caliper pistons) - had that similar brake sticking happen to me once on a cross country tour and found a plugged return bleed off causing the issues - take a quick read here:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?12536-Stranded-with-brakes-sticking-and-heating-up-Read-this

[Yammer Dan]

Master cylinder too full!! And 21 lbs is too much in front. Blow those seals and costly rebuild. I never go over 14 and springs will do wonders.

[KIC]

Welcome, since it is too late to tell you to run and not ,look back, all I can tell you is you have now entered the twilight zone. An alternative dimension that is inescapable.

 

We do have a rolling troll by the name of CowPuc that we believe to be an escaped computer algorithm from the Ashley Madison website, but not sure.

 

 

If you continue to be concerned with, or have problems with, your cooling system, try switching or buying a new radiator cap. They are $23.87 at Boats.net

 

cap: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-12462-00-00.html

 

This has a lot of diagrams. Search through them for information. click on the nearest part like radiator hose to find all the cooling parts etc.

 

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1989/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ13DW/parts.html

[cowpuc]

Welcome, since it is too late to tell you to run and not ,look back, all I can tell you is you have now entered the twilight zone. An alternative dimension that is inescapable.

 

We do have a rolling troll by the name of CowPuc that we believe to be an escaped computer algorithm from the Ashley Madison website, but not sure.

 

 

If you continue to be concerned with, or have problems with, your cooling system, try switching or buying a new radiator cap. They are $23.87 at Boats.net

 

cap: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-12462-00-00.html

 

This has a lot of diagrams. Search through them for information. click on the nearest part like radiator hose to find all the cooling parts etc.

 

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1989/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ13DW/parts.html

,,,, I'm just a filament of your head lights illumination.. Edited July 6, 2016 by cowpuc

[KIC]

,,,, I'm just a filament of your head lights illumination..

 

Luv ya man !!

[cowpuc]

Luv ya man !!

 

 

,,,, back at ya brother

[snyper316]

Once again - LOTS of great advice happening here,,, gotta join in the fun!

Hey Rags,, your sticking brake issue sounds really familiar - especially since you were able to release pressure off the bleeder and didnt have to smack the side of the caliper to get the pistons to return (had that been the case, I would be guessing corroded caliper pistons) - had that similar brake sticking happen to me once on a cross country tour and found a plugged return bleed off causing the issues - take a quick read here:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?12536-Stranded-with-brakes-sticking-and-heating-up-Read-this

 

hey Puc I dont think there is anything quick there if I remember right i was just reading that yesterday and still havent finished lol but yes very good info. I did have the rear brake problem till I replaced the pads and Cleaned the cylinder up real good which is basically what ya have in there I just had to pick on ya since you said take a quick read... May not be quick reads but enjoyable ones..:biker:

[snyper316]

Welcome, since it is too late to tell you to run and not ,look back, all I can tell you is you have now entered the twilight zone. An alternative dimension that is inescapable.

 

We do have a rolling troll by the name of CowPuc that we believe to be an escaped computer algorithm from the Ashley Madison website, but not sure.

 

 

If you continue to be concerned with, or have problems with, your cooling system, try switching or buying a new radiator cap. They are $23.87 at Boats.net

 

cap: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-12462-00-00.html

 

This has a lot of diagrams. Search through them for information. click on the nearest part like radiator hose to find all the cooling parts etc.

 

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1989/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ13DW/parts.html

 

Um question sorry but I'm in a jittery mood tonight Since I own one of these fine bikes and looking to possibly buy another 83... I know where a gem sets about an 2 hours cruise from me been well taken care of... anyways back to the point of me quoting this guy here That wasn't very nice Marie can hear you she is outside my bedroom window!!!!

[snyper316]

Hey @cowpuc have you ever had a problem with the latch that secures your saddlebags I have one I have to use a screwdriver on while I turn the key to unlatch it from the bracket I have taken it apart and greased it and put it back in and it still seems like when I turn the key it kind of feels like it is hitting something its no big deal just curious if there is a fix to this is all.

[mountainmanVR]

I was having issues with my 83 running really hot. After I totally drained the coolant, I refilled with Amsoil coolant, since then even 100F days have not been an issue.

 

Warning light always flashing, gas (on/off)/battery (on/off)/ headlight (comes & goes) low brake fluid, low engine oil comes & goes.

[Yammer Dan]

Hey @cowpuc have you ever had a problem with the latch that secures your saddlebags I have one I have to use a screwdriver on while I turn the key to unlatch it from the bracket I have taken it apart and greased it and put it back in and it still seems like when I turn the key it kind of feels like it is hitting something its no big deal just curious if there is a fix to this is all.

 

 

A complete teardown and cleaning will fix most. You have to take apart all that will come apart. My 85 would not work at all. Work fine now but I cain't remember what I used for lube when I put them back together.

[snyper316]

A complete teardown and cleaning will fix most. You have to take apart all that will come apart. My 85 would not work at all. Work fine now but I cain't remember what I used for lube when I put them back together.

 

I have that black goo technically its not for that but tried bar and chain lube WD-40 finally i got the black goo out and put that in the peice and put it all back together but even when i had it apart it was acting like it was hanging up and its not the key cylinder it is the latch itself maybe i will take the other one apart and see if maybe a piece is missing out of the one side and if there is im sure true value or bumper to bumper will have what i need seems the last 3 times i needed something they had what i needed need to pull the black goo out and put it in the final drive anyways and see how many fitting I find on the Marie.

[snyper316]

A complete teardown and cleaning will fix most. You have to take apart all that will come apart. My 85 would not work at all. Work fine now but I cain't remember what I used for lube when I put them back together.

Took them both apart and found the problem the round mechanism gets jammed up on the one side so I guess I will try to get a lock tomorrow if the guy has the hole lock I just use it for parts that way I keep just one key

 

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