Mad Dog Posted May 2, 2016 #1 Posted May 2, 2016 if I remove the mufflers, I suppose I need new gaskets to put them back on, anything else come to mind? Any issues doing this with a motorcycle jack and lift adapter, rather than a lift table? TIA as always Mike
Freebird Posted May 2, 2016 #2 Posted May 2, 2016 I've changed quiet a few tires and never had to replace the muffler gaskets. They usually stay in the mufflers and can be reused. Always did it with a lift and adapter. No problem. You have to get it pretty much all the way up before the rear tire will come out but it works fine.
djh3 Posted May 3, 2016 #3 Posted May 3, 2016 I always removed both bags and both mufflers. More room to work and less weight to jack up. Loosen clamp, and then sort of wiggle the end of the muffler in a small circular motion and gradually get larger until it has some movement to come off.
M61A1MECH Posted May 3, 2016 #4 Posted May 3, 2016 I only did mine once, on my 98 and it was not nearly as much fun as I expected, so I never did it again, but when I did I made sure to have something under the front wheel so when the weight shifted as the rear was removed it could only go so far, even though I had her strapped to the lift I did not want to take a chance of the whole thing going nose down on me. I tend to be a bit more caution than necessary sometimes, but it worked for me. Good luck.
RedRider Posted May 3, 2016 #5 Posted May 3, 2016 Have changed out the rear tire lots of times. Generally only remove the brake side pipe along with both saddle bags. Still using the original gasket on the OEM pipes. And yes, lift with adapter works. Now, depending on mileage and where you ride, you may find the bolt that clamps the muffler on is really rusted. I have replaced both sides with a SS fastener. Helps lots. RR
dave_wells Posted May 4, 2016 #6 Posted May 4, 2016 since you will have it apart. I would just remove both side muffler and bags it s easy. With everything off. remove and grease up the hub splines, Change the rear diff oil . pull the drive shaft and grease up both ends, check the rear shock for oil leakage, The shock can be replaced with the tire on or off . Its a good time to replace brake pads if needed. Putting the rear tire on solo can be a pain, Sometimes it just does not want to line up you can put some blocks or a small jack under the tire to take some weight off. When putting the drive shaft in on the forward side , You need to make sure it is into the joint up there it is very easy to miss. First time i did it I did not see the big deal it went right in The second time it took several attempts. In or not everything will go back together . It would kinda suck to get it all back together to only have to take it apart. This forum is a great source for info Plenty of good mechanics.:bowdown: Want proof just ask what oil to use then sit back and wait Be safe ...
Mad Dog Posted May 8, 2016 Author #7 Posted May 8, 2016 Thanks as always. What grease do you use on the splines? Regular white lithium stuff? TIA
N3FOL Posted December 25, 2016 #8 Posted December 25, 2016 Thanks as always. What grease do you use on the splines? Regular white lithium stuff? TIA I use the Honda Moly - I think that is what it is called. I'll double check the name tomorrow. BTW, I just googled it and read something about the Honda Moly 60 as a discontinued item. It had been replaced by Honda Moly 77. Luckily, I still have an unopened tube that I purchased a number of years ago on standby.
2WHEELSFORME Posted December 25, 2016 #9 Posted December 25, 2016 I remove the right side bag only. Not the muff and not the left side bag and for sure not the left muff. Do be sure to remove the hub from wheel and grease the splines. Supporting the front wheel is good advice. Now if your axel was not lubed the last time it was out you may have difficulty getting it to slide with ease.
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