Bleeding the brakes

[davepa]

What is the best way to bleed the rear brake system? I have a shop manual but just thought someone here had come up with a good bleeding sequence. Is there any way to turn this into a solo operation as I am home alone for the week end. I see the rear master cylinder is not very easy to get into. Any tips appreciated!

regards Dave

[sarges46]

Speed bleeders for by yourself but you would have to wait until they were delivered. I dont know enough to help any other way than what the manual says. Must be a nice day and everyone is riding.

 

Wait until this evening and I suspect there will be more help coming.

[davepa]

Yes it is a beautiful day...with many more to come..I need to get busy and get the bike on the road!

[Snaggletooth]

Ok. here is what I do on my '84.

 

1st: Top off the master res.

2nd: Locate the metering valve on the front brake line that is on the top of the frame behind the triple tree. This has to be your starting point due to it being the highest point on the brake lines. Some have a bleeder, some don't. Mine can be reached from the right side by going up under the fairing. Wrap a rag around the line to soak up the brake fluid. Crack open the bleeder or a line fitting so it's easy to open, then close it.

3rd: Apply pressure to the pedal and pump it up. Crack the metering valve line open and bleed there first. Repeat until solid.

4th? Then move to the front left brake caliper and bleed that as needed. It's a bit of a reach from the brake pedal to the left caliper but it can be done.

5th: Check the master res again.

6th: Pump the pedal and bleed the rear caliper.

7th: Top off the master res again. Close it up, wash your hands, go for a test ride. Check you brakes really well BEFORE you NEED them.

 

Snaggletooth

[davepa]

Thanks Snaggletooth,

Is there a trick to removing the master cylinder lid since it sooo close to the frame? It looks to just have enough clearance to slide under the cross brace. Remember the Venture is unexplored territory for me. I am an ex- 05' Nomad owner.

[Guest Bigin]

You dont have to remove the rear master cylinder lid to add fluid, just the bolt. I think it was a 14 mm, and angled toward you for easy access.

 

It has a copper washer on it also that you dont want to lose.

 

Fluid level should be kept just below the threads.

 

I use a cut down turkey baster jammed into the threads and fill it with an inch or 2 of fluid.

 

That way I can do the whole bike without worrying about pulling air into the system, and just bleed until the baster is empty before I remove it. May have to bleed a small amount more out to get below the threads.

 

You will want to stuff some paper towels in below the filler to catch any residual, but it works well.

[davepa]

Thanks for the info. a turkey baster is on its way from Wally World. I'll try to bleed the system this evening.

Regards Dave

[davepa]

Ok. here is what I do on my '84.

 

1st: Top off the master res.

2nd: Locate the metering valve on the front brake line that is on the top of the frame behind the triple tree. This has to be your starting point due to it being the highest point on the brake lines. Some have a bleeder, some don't. Mine can be reached from the right side by going up under the fairing. Wrap a rag around the line to soak up the brake fluid. Crack open the bleeder or a line fitting so it's easy to open, then close it.

3rd: Apply pressure to the pedal and pump it up. Crack the metering valve line open and bleed there first. Repeat until solid.

4th? Then move to the front left brake caliper and bleed that as needed. It's a bit of a reach from the brake pedal to the left caliper but it can be done.

5th: Check the master res again.

6th: Pump the pedal and bleed the rear caliper.

7th: Top off the master res again. Close it up, wash your hands, go for a test ride. Check you brakes really well BEFORE you NEED them.

 

Snaggletooth

 

 

 

Just washed my hands after bleeding the rear brake system. With the amount of air that was removed it is a wonder I had enough brake to stop when I loaded it on my trailer. I have not tried the brakes on the road yet, but may this afternoon once the rain shower passes.

Again thanks

Dave

[davepa]

You dont have to remove the rear master cylinder lid to add fluid, just the bolt. I think it was a 14 mm, and angled toward you for easy access.

 

It has a copper washer on it also that you dont want to lose.

 

Fluid level should be kept just below the threads.

 

I use a cut down turkey baster jammed into the threads and fill it with an inch or 2 of fluid.

 

That way I can do the whole bike without worrying about pulling air into the system, and just bleed until the baster is empty before I remove it. May have to bleed a small amount more out to get below the threads.

 

You will want to stuff some paper towels in below the filler to catch any residual, but it works well.

 

 

I used your method of filling the cylinder and blead the brakes. The amount of air in the system was unbelievable..

Thanks