Valve removal

[Trader]

I made up a valve spring compressor by cutting up a socket and using a C-clamp

 

But now I still have to remove the valve seals to get the valves out.

 

The manual calls for a special tool but is this really needed or is there something else that works.

If I have to buy a special tool is it specific to Yamaha or can I buy one elsewhere?

Edited April 29, 2016 by Trader

[Trader]

Nobody ?

 

I need some help here!

I have never been this deep in a motor before.

 

Also, could someone please explain the process for removing the valve guides and seals?

the manual and video don't explain the how...they just say to do it.

 

In the manual under the special tools, it's hard to figure out The diagram of the valve guide remover on how to use it

the re installer just looks like a spacer.

[Flyinfool]

I never went as deep as you are headed, I will take a look at my spare heads over the weekend to see if I can figure it out for you. Unless of course someone jumps in here first.

[frankd]

Seeing that the head is aluminum and the guides aren't, the guide removal process probably involves heat.

 

 

I missed the reason why you pulled the head and want to remove the valve? What happened?

 

Frank

Edited April 29, 2016 by frankd

[bongobobny]

Hey Steve!!

 

Nope, never been that deep myself but as stated, they are a press fit steel into, aluminum. I usually send my heads out to the professionals for that kind of work, time is money and I don't come cheap...

[yamagrl]

I think Damon covers it in his videos.

 

Here is info how to get them http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84030-DVD-of-1st-gen-motor-amp-carb-rebuild-process-purchase-info

 

 

[bongobobny]

Ahhhh!! I only watched his video on the carbs! I have his engine video too. Ended up sending the engine to PCW racing...

[yamagrl]

Ahhhh!! I only watched his video on the carbs! I have his engine video too. Ended up sending the engine to PCW racing...

I am a huge fan and advocate of those videos. I tore down Big Red and did the infamous second gear repair/change out and rebuilt the carbs according to those videos. If you watched the engine one, then I recommend it. The Engine video is about 4 1/2 to 5 hours. Very, very good instruction.

 

Heather

[bongobobny]

Well, yes I did scan through the engine one, but was not rebuilding mine at the time, the original engine still only has 18K on it! I followed his carb rebuild step by step, used my old laptop out on my work table in the garage!!

 

The engine project started out with me buying a pair of VMax heads, but the project mushroomed into VMax heads with PCW 3/4 cams and PCW valve springs, then a 1300 engine came up for a good price, and after talking to John at PCW I got talked into 0.030 oversized pistons, etc!! Meanwhile about $5000 later I should be picking up the engine, he's had it since last summer! Now I'm looking at a $1500 fuel injection system that uses the stock carbs with special machined injectors that slip into the carb body I think where the slides go...

[yamagrl]

Well, yes I did scan through the engine one, but was not rebuilding mine at the time, the original engine still only has 18K on it! I followed his carb rebuild step by step, used my old laptop out on my work table in the garage!!

 

The engine project started out with me buying a pair of VMax heads, but the project mushroomed into VMax heads with PCW 3/4 cams and PCW valve springs, then a 1300 engine came up for a good price, and after talking to John at PCW I got talked into 0.030 oversized pistons, etc!! Meanwhile about $5000 later I should be picking up the engine, he's had it since last summer! Now I'm looking at a $1500 fuel injection system that uses the stock carbs with special machined injectors that slip into the carb body I think where the slides go...

I've read about converting the carbs into what essentially amounts to throttle body injection. It's a great idea!

 

One thing about Big Red... no matter how much I spend it is still far less than it would be I bought something new.

[Trader]

I've emailed to see if I can get the videos.

I guess that is my only hope.

Im amazed nobody here has ever done a valve job!

I sure can't afford to pay someone to do it for me.

 

my next choice is to see if someone has a low mileage motor.

[bongobobny]

This summer I will have a low mileage 1200 available...

[yamagrl]

I've emailed to see if I can get the videos.

I guess that is my only hope.

Im amazed nobody here has ever done a valve job!

I sure can't afford to pay someone to do it for me.

 

my next choice is to see if someone has a low mileage motor.

 

I'm certain you will hear back from him soon. I had a lot of email contact with him about 2 years ago and he was usually quite prompt with his responses but a few times, like most of us, it took a few days to hear back from him.

 

Let me know if you don't hear back from him about the videos in a couple of days.

 

[Trader]

Well I went to my local dealer and asked them how to remove the oil seals etc.

I spoke to the owner who has been wrenching bikes for 35 years and he said he has NEVER had to do any valve work on one of these motors!

 

He said just to drive the valve down with a dowel or something similar.

 

He offered me a bugandy '85 (not royale) that has sat in his shop for 3 years.

He wants $1000 but that's too much

[Flyinfool]

So offer him $500 with 5 nice $100 bills in your hand.

Depending of course on the condition of the bike.

Some times you just never know how bad they want it to go away.

[cowpuc]

Well I went to my local dealer and asked them how to remove the oil seals etc.

I spoke to the owner who has been wrenching bikes for 35 years and he said he has NEVER had to do any valve work on one of these motors!

 

He said just to drive the valve down with a dowel or something similar.

 

He offered me a bugandy '85 (not royale) that has sat in his shop for 3 years.

He wants $1000 but that's too much

 

I KNOW lots of folks who will and over what I am about to say Trader.. I KNOW I am about to put my neck in a noose and risk being called a shameful Motorcycle Abuser but I gotta tell you.. I can TOTALLY understand where your dealer is coming from.. Tweeks has over 300k miles on her and never had her valves done:doh:.. She is number 5 for me, all of the others made it to well over 200k, a couple over 250K before being sent into retirement and none of them had ever had valve work done to them either:doh: and NONE of them died of valve failure:happy34:..

In my own defense and something to be understood about my experience with the 1st Gen Ventures, the main reason I have ridden Ventures all these years is because of the low initial cost of a very rideable machine (I still say that even though our Yammies ARE the best Touring machine EVER produced - they never had a following that drove up the costs) making it possible for me to raise a family of four kids and still be able to afford such fun.. I was never much into concerns with oil leaks, clean chrome and all that - just basic maintenance and chase the front wheel till it dont spin no more and buy another..

Personally,, if a person wants something to be concerned about when dealing with MK1 1st Gen's, I would say the second gear issue would be a far more interesting thing to wrap the worry gears around as that is almost a garunteed issue.. On the same token, even that can be over come for many many miles simply by going "click" and skipping 2nd gear making even that issue a non issue if a person is so inclined

[frankd]

Before you make the offer make sure the 85's s/n is above the 2nd gear mod. upgrade.

[Marcarl]

Buy the 85, it would be your best investment, then slap the motor into yours if you want, or you can just enjoy the best of them all and ride it as it is.

[van avery]

Steve

Wanted to make sure you got my PM's on the valves. They should just push through after you remove the keepers, cap and springs. Make sure when grinding them that you don't get any of the grinding compound any farther up the valve than the head of the valve. Clean them off real good after you grind them you can also tell if they are seated correctly when you shine a BRIGHT light through the intake and exhaust ports and you don't see any light in a dark room. If there is any light you need to grind more.

[Trader]

Steve

Wanted to make sure you got my PM's on the valves. They should just push through after you remove the keepers, cap and springs. Make sure when grinding them that you don't get any of the grinding compound any farther up the valve than the head of the valve. Clean them off real good after you grind them you can also tell if they are seated correctly when you shine a BRIGHT light through the intake and exhaust ports and you don't see any light in a dark room. If there is any light you need to grind more.

 

 

Got them...thanks!

One good tip I got to check if valves are sealing properly was to just pour cleaning solution down the intake or exhaust port. If it leaks then it's not sealing.

But I guess that method would only work if the valve is installed with springs etc.

There may not be enough pressure to test that way if they are just sitting loose in the seat.

[Gray Ghost]

Yes, you want to have it set up like you are about to run it to do the check.

[Gray Ghost]

Yes, you want to fully reassemble the valves to do that check.