WiFi Question

[camos]

My cable Internet company recently supplied me with a new Wifi/Router Modem so now I have two WiFi routers on my home network. They are both dual band. I'm trying to figure out how they should be configured for optimum use. The modem/router is the DHCP/DNS server and is located upstairs. The second WiFi router is located downstairs and is configured as an access point so no firewall/NAT services.

 

I haven't had any experience with WiFi so there are a few questions I have been pondering.

What I want to know is could/should each router supply a separate SSID and password login connection or should they be kept separate. If they both had the same SSID would that create a collision conflict condition. Can the dual bands both be operational at the same time and possibly offer a faster wirless network speed? What is the better security protocol to use?

[alwrmcusn]

My two cents worth: (I am on Comcast/Xfinity)

You will be charged for two devices most likely, and might be charged for two connections.

My router/modem is dual band and supplies Wi-Fi that covers the entire house and the surrounding lawn. Max distance roughly about 100-150 feet from the router/modem itself. We sit on the deck and porch with the laptop and her iPad frequently. The router/modem also has our phone lines and they are usable over the entire lawn area.

I do not think you can use both devices as a single connection, but you seem to indicate that one is being used as a relay to expand the coverage??

Comcast explained to me....the dual band allowed whichever band was free/clear of interference to be selected used without having to specify manually.

I have two desk top computers connected via Ethernet cable, a third Ethernet for various machines I might be working on or repairing. The laptop, TV, PS4 and iPad are Wi-Fi and the cell phones also connect via Wi-Fi at home. My current download speeds are about 125mpps so speed is not usually a problem for downloads since of course the speed is dependent upon the senders capabilities.

Perhaps someone from your area might provide more accurate input.

[MiCarl]

Do you have a reason for using both? If your primary modem/router is centrally located you probably don't need an additional one.

 

I've never done a multiple access point system but did find THIS description on the web.

[Wizard765]

If your second router is behind or plugged into a shared network port on the primary router then the ISP is only seeing the primary modem/router and anything behind that should be fine. If your second router is set up as an access point with the same SSID and password then your network in theory should be seamless and your devices should connect to the stronger signal. If you want a separate network for some reason then you can have a different SSID. In larger networks there is usually a smart or managed switch that will take care of switching between access points.

If the second router is in an area that is getting a signal from the main router/modem then it could be set up as a repeater but some speed is lost in this scenario. The access point is a good idea.

[Midrsv]

I have 4 wifi routers connected in my house. I have the main router that handles all of the DHCP functions and the other 3 are set as access points. I use a unique name on each one. While my main router can reach most of the house, I had the extra routers left over from upgrades and I use them as wired switch as well as a wireless access point. Most of my devices are connected via ethernet cables. I utilize the 4 modems plus two other 5 port switches. But I have no problem getting a strong wifi signal when I need one.

 

Dennis

[camos]

Do you have a reason for using both? If your primary modem/router is centrally located you probably don't need an additional one.

 

I've never done a multiple access point system but did find THIS description on the web.

By the time I got through the linked info my head was spinning so will have to think on it a bit.

 

The WiFi modem/router is upstairs and it connects to the cable co's WAN and does DNS/DHCP and NAT for the LAN. At my workstation there is a PC, network tuner and phone with wired connections to this device. At some point, hopefully soon, I will be connecting either a smart TV or an Android TV box from the bedroom through the WiFi. The other WiFi Access Point router is downstairs and has an Android TV box (with dual band WiFi) and printer all with wired connections. The WiFi is used by handheld devices throughout the house.

 

If your second router is behind or plugged into a shared network port on the primary router then the ISP is only seeing the primary modem/router and anything behind that should be fine. If your second router is set up as an access point with the same SSID and password then your network in theory should be seamless and your devices should connect to the stronger signal. If you want a separate network for some reason then you can have a different SSID. In larger networks there is usually a smart or managed switch that will take care of switching between access points.

If the second router is in an area that is getting a signal from the main router/modem then it could be set up as a repeater but some speed is lost in this scenario. The access point is a good idea.

That is pretty much the way I think I have it set up. So my question about the dual band WiFi was to get a clarification on whether both bands can be utilized at the same time to get the fastest WiFi through put possible. I'm not sure how WiFi channels factor into this. I do have a feeling that only one band can be used by a device at any one time.

 

My two cents worth: (I am on Comcast/Xfinity)

You will be charged for two devices most likely, and might be charged for two connections.

My router/modem is dual band and supplies Wi-Fi that covers the entire house and the surrounding lawn. Max distance roughly about 100-150 feet from the router/modem itself. We sit on the deck and porch with the laptop and her iPad frequently. The router/modem also has our phone lines and they are usable over the entire lawn area.

Everything on my LAN is just one connection through the cable router/modem. I don't think my new WiFi router/modem is quite as powerful as yours is but I haven't tested it yet. There very well could be some overlap with the two WiFi routers.

 

I do not think you can use both devices as a single connection, but you seem to indicate that one is being used as a relay to expand the coverage??

Comcast explained to me....the dual band allowed whichever band was free/clear of interference to be selected used without having to specify manually.

This is also what I am currently trying to sort out.

I have two desk top computers connected via Ethernet cable, a third Ethernet for various machines I might be working on or repairing. The laptop, TV, PS4 and iPad are Wi-Fi and the cell phones also connect via Wi-Fi at home. My current download speeds are about 125mpps so speed is not usually a problem for downloads since of course the speed is dependent upon the senders capabilities.

Perhaps someone from your area might provide more accurate input.

Nice, a truly fast connection, mine is only 15 Mbps. Although what I have seems to be adequate, mainly used for streaming video to only one TV at this time but, as noted above, another TV will soon be joining the network. I have not yet gotten the network TV tuner to be accessable to all devices. It is primarily used for OTA signals and PVR services when I get that part of it operational.

[camos]

I have 4 wifi routers connected in my house. I have the main router that handles all of the DHCP functions and the other 3 are set as access points. I use a unique name on each one. While my main router can reach most of the house, I had the extra routers left over from upgrades and I use them as wired switch as well as a wireless access point. Most of my devices are connected via ethernet cables. I utilize the 4 modems plus two other 5 port switches. But I have no problem getting a strong wifi signal when I need one.

 

Dennis

The setup you have is a larger scale version of the one I have. The two WiFi routers currently have separate SSID's at this time so my question on the matter was prompted by the planned addition of a new TV in my bedroom. I made the big mistake of not installing an ethernet connection in the bedroom so it will have to be served by WiFi. No testing can be done until I get the new TV but I'm trying to gain an understanding of how things should be setup before that happens.

 

I did not mention it earlier but there is also a switch on my network. I am totally not up on switches. I needed an extra ethernet port and my son gave me an old switch which added another 8 ports. Pretty painless, plug-n-play although there seems to be a small delay now that was not there before. It is 10/100 and everything else is Gigabit but I'm not sure if that would make any difference. It's probably not a very smart switch and D-Link does not have any info on their site about it except for a not very informative user manual. There is no admin page so it is necessary to SSH in and I have not gotten around to doing that yet.

[camos]

Do you have a reason for using both? If your primary modem/router is centrally located you probably don't need an additional one.

 

I've never done a multiple access point system but did find THIS description on the web.

So I had another look at the linked page and Method 1 part 4... Decide between LAN-to-LAN or LAN-to-Wan connection... is what I had to work around. The initial default setup was easy-peasy and gave me LAN-to-WAN with Internet connectivity but did not allow the sharing of files to devices across the network. So after configuring the second router as an Access Point I have LAN-to-LAN and all devices can talk to each other.

 

Still working on the WiFi end of things but probably need to get the new TV connected through WiFi before I can get much further.

[alwrmcusn]

There are devices that you may use instead of Ethernet and/or Wi-Fi to connect also. They plug into your wall electrical outlets and use house wiring to transmit/receive much like an Ethernet cable. They are safe and apparently are very reliable.

Myself, when we had new carpet installed I crawled under the house (I'd rather eat liver than crawl under there! (smile)) and strung an Ethernet cable to the living room. I was too cheap to spring for the power outlet devices. They are not too expensive. Google for them or perhaps find someone here would might testify for them.

Sounds/reads like there are number of forum members here who are better than me for help on your setup.

[Wizard765]

There are devices that you may use instead of Ethernet and/or Wi-Fi to connect also. They plug into your wall electrical outlets and use house wiring to transmit/receive much like an Ethernet cable. They are safe and apparently are very reliable.

Myself, when we had new carpet installed I crawled under the house (I'd rather eat liver than crawl under there! (smile)) and strung an Ethernet cable to the living room. I was too cheap to spring for the power outlet devices. They are not too expensive. Google for them or perhaps find someone here would might testify for them.

Sounds/reads like there are number of forum members here who are better than me for help on your setup.

 

These are called powerline adapters and they work very well.. I have used them in numerous locations.. They come in 3 speeds.. 250 500 and 1000. In most cases 500 is plenty for sharing internet and streaming etc but if you are transferring large files frequently between devices then go with the 1000 You can even put a switch (hub) at the receiving end to share with multiple devices in one location.

[camos]

These are called powerline adapters and they work very well.. I have used them in numerous locations.. They come in 3 speeds.. 250 500 and 1000. In most cases 500 is plenty for sharing internet and streaming etc but if you are transferring large files frequently between devices then go with the 1000 You can even put a switch (hub) at the receiving end to share with multiple devices in one location.

Excellent idea, looks like a good option if the WiFi is problematic.

Now I just need to find a decent inexpensive 32" TV with a sleep timer. Looks like I might have to actually go into a brick store to find one. Haven't seen any mention of a timer in any of the specs.

[Flyinfool]

Most of the TVs do have a sleep timer. Unfortunately most of them are also buried in the menus and are not a simple one or two button presses like in the good old days.

[camos]

Most of the TVs do have a sleep timer. Unfortunately most of them are also buried in the menus and are not a simple one or two button presses like in the good old days.

That what I thought too and was just about to pull the trigger on a Vizio when I read a review that stated it did not have a timer. Bummed me out, since it was the only inexpensive TV with mostly good reviews. Went in to BestBuy and talked to a sales person who told me quite a few TV's don't have sleep timers anymore. They only had four models in that size and none of them had sleep timers. One did have an off timer but the shortest period was 2 hours which is about the time I would sleep before getting woken up by the TV.

 

Found a few since then with sleep timers but the poor reviews have put me off. I hate shopping!!

 

 

Getting back to the WiFi, I set up the two routers with separate ID's and passwords and so far it seems to confuse my phone when walking through my house. The phone is constantly trying to reaquire the signal as I move. It only seems to connect to the 2.4G signal so probably turning one of them off would be the best choice and use the 5G for the TV box. Will see what happens when I eventually decide on a TV.

 

There is more bad nes, yesterday tried to run the lead from the TV antenna through the deck and found the upper wall does not exactly line up with the lower wall. Got a hole from the top into a void and a hole from the bottom into a void but can't see any light from either of them.

Trying to accomplish the simplest thing seems to be impossible these days.

[saddlebum]

Most of the TVs do have a sleep timer. Unfortunately most of them are also buried in the menus and are not a simple one or two button presses like in the good old days.

Hey @Flyinfool I was unaware that the black and white TV'S of your good old days even had sleep timers. Or is that what you call it when your wife turns off the the TV after you fall asleep in the Lazzzzzy Boy. It would certainly be simpler.

[dacheedah]

If your second router is behind or plugged into a shared network port on the primary router then the ISP is only seeing the primary modem/router and anything behind that should be fine. If your second router is set up as an access point with the same SSID and password then your network in theory should be seamless and your devices should connect to the stronger signal. If you want a separate network for some reason then you can have a different SSID. In larger networks there is usually a smart or managed switch that will take care of switching between access points.

If the second router is in an area that is getting a signal from the main router/modem then it could be set up as a repeater but some speed is lost in this scenario. The access point is a good idea.

 

I have my primary and second router set up as a wireless access point,

same ssid and password and no problems.

[camos]

I have my primary and second router set up as a wireless access point,

same ssid and password and no problems.

I thought I had the second router set up as an access point, will have to check and make sure.

 

So on the admin page of the second router set as access point are the SSID and PW settings disabled or did you enter the same info as the first router?

[dacheedah]

So on the admin page of the second router set as access point using the same SSID , password and encryption settings

 

set the router and access point to a different channels that do not overlap ie set router to 6 and access point to 11 but you should probably use ch 1, 6, 11 because they do not overlap. Change the ip of the access point to an address within the routers range, turn off dhcp on the access point. Run a network cable between router and access point and you should be good to go.

 

There is a lot of info on it that is specific to the devices but this is the basic framework.

[camos]

So on the admin page of the second router set as access point using the same SSID , password and encryption settings

 

set the router and access point to a different channels that do not overlap ie set router to 6 and access point to 11 but you should probably use ch 1, 6, 11 because they do not overlap. Change the ip of the access point to an address within the routers range, turn off dhcp on the access point. Run a network cable between router and access point and you should be good to go.

I'll have to check the channels but the rest of it is how my routers are setup. Can you explain overlapping channels?

[dacheedah]

Ch 1, 6 and 11 do not. Overlap. The other channels have a part of the band that is shared with the next channel ie if you used 2 and your neighbor used 3 your data would be slower because part of the channel is busy with your neighbors activity. If you live in a remote area and assign channels at opposite ends this may not be an issue, in town you should avoid using these channels. If you used speed test and had good speed wired but wifi is slow, assigning 1,6 or 11 may be very helpful http://www.howtogeek.com/197268/how-to-find-the-best-wi-fi-channel-for-your-router-on-any-operating-system/