Fork Oil, Brake Fluid and the bottoming out of the front forks

[Guest reddogut]

Ok, my head is spinning.

 

After the last couple posts I have made, all the replies I have gotten, thinking about a couple different issues I am having/have had with my bike and reading the following posts:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13582

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13218

 

Among several others... Here are my thoughts... PLEASE pipe in with your thoughts.

 

When I bought my 83 VR (about a month ago), the right front brake rotor was COVERED in what I thought was brake fluid. It was so soaked that the front brake wouldn't even slow the bike down, not to even talk about stopping it. The guy I bought it from told me that it was leaking brake fluid from between the two caliper halves. I thought, 'Ok I will fix that'.

 

I needed to get it passed on state inspection, so I cleaned up all of the fluid from the brake rotor, the caliper and the pads REALLY good and took it in for inspection. It passed fine and the front brake worked great.

 

When I got home I thought to myself, if there was that much fluid on the rotor, the front brake resevior must be low. I carefully cleaned the outside of the resevior, removed the screws and pulled off the cover. It is completely full. I am bewildered, but content that maybe the problem will re-show itself making diagnosis easier.

 

After a couple hundred miles, the brake rotor is still completely dry and the front brake resevoir is still completely full.

 

Now, another issue I am expiriencing is the apparent bottoming out of the front end when I hit normal road bumps. And sometimes cornering feels really wierd (nice description, huh?). I checked the air in the front end with the CLASS system and it seems fine at 14 psi.

 

Now I am wondering if the fluid was folk oil, and if the bottoming out and shaky cornering are a result of either no fork oil in the right fork or uneven fork oil levels in the two front forks. What do you think?

 

Is there a way to check the fork oil level in the forks? How do I add fork oil to the forks if they are low?

 

Sorry this is so long. Please forgive a "newbie". I also wanted to express my thanks to all of you who are so willing to offer advice. This website is GREAT and I am so glad to be a part of it.

 

-Mike

[Dano]

If it was a "dark greenish" type fluid, rather thick, then it is fork oil and probably drained out of the fork. If you look at the bottom of the fork, you will notice Yamahas proportional valve assembly or anti-dive unit. Try to tighten the 2 screws on either side of the unit. If these are loose, your fork oil will drain out. Also look up under the unit for the veeeeeerrrry small dampening adjustment screw that should be in there. If its gone, fluid will drain right out. To check the level, read the online manual you will find in the 1st gen tech library here. Hopefully this will help you get started.

 

Good luck,

 

Dan

[Dano]

Forgot to tell you that your "symptoms" is an indication that the fork is low or out of oil.

[GeorgeS]

Deffinatly: Drain the Forks:

 

At the Drain Screws, Check the O-Ring Rubber Seals, on the Drain Screws,

They may be Damaged, or Missing. this might be the cause of your Oil

being low. O-Rings should be avialable at any Auto Parts store.

 

I would " Assume " that the Oil has Never been changed.

 

If what comes out of drain holes, is Black ( most likly it will be ) I would also

rinse out the Tubes, with maby some SAE -5 wgt Oil, a few times, let it all drain

out well. In other words try to clean out the old stuff.

 

Refill: with the " Specified " number of " Ounces " of the correct weight of " Fork Oil " NOT, Engine Oil, or any other type of oil. !!!!!

See, Service Manuel for the Correct Number of Ounces of Oil to use.

Most any Motorcycle dealer carries the stuff.

 

You will need at least 2 Qts. One is not enough.

 

You must remove handle bars, and the large Allen Head Plugs on top of each Tube.

 

You will need the Correct Size Allen Head Wrench " Metric " Wrench.

The Threads on the Plugs are Very Fine!!! Carefull not to damage them.

Clean threads carefully before replaceing the plugs.

 

Hardest part of job, is to get the Plugs ReStarted Aginast the Spring Pressure Without Damaging the Threads !!! DON'T DAMAGE THE THREADS !!!

 

Work Slow !!!!! If you hit a Snag, make a Posting !!!!! Help is here

[DevilDog]

Mike,

 

I had a similar problem with my 84 after I first got it. In addition to the advice Dan and George are giving, you might want to consider replacing the fork springs. When I first started having the problems I had the forks rebuilt, new oil, etc but still had the "bottoming out" issue. After some research it turns out that weak fork springs are pretty common on the early ventures. I replaced the originals with a set of progressive springs and haven't had any problems since. (2 years) And it also made a huge difference in the handling. Hope this helps.

 

Carl

[GeorgeS]

Mike,

 

I had a similar problem with my 84 after I first got it. In addition to the advice Dan and George are giving, you might want to consider replacing the fork springs. When I first started having the problems I had the forks rebuilt, new oil, etc but still had the "bottoming out" issue. After some research it turns out that weak fork springs are pretty common on the early ventures. I replaced the originals with a set of progressive springs and haven't had any problems since. (2 years) And it also made a huge difference in the handling. Hope this helps.

 

Carl

 

Agree, worth the money !!!

[Guest Bigin]

Ditto that, fork springs one of the easiest and least expensive fixes that yield huge bang for the buck results.

 

Bike feels spry again afterwards.

[Leeway]

Any one have the specific part # for the progressive springs? Also who has the best price? I changed the oil two years ago on my ginny 1. I'm getting ready to do the seals the springs, and replace the rubber fork protecting guards as well. thanx wayne

[Rocket]

Any one have the specific part # for the progressive springs? Also who has the best price? I changed the oil two years ago on my ginny 1. I'm getting ready to do the seals the springs, and replace the rubber fork protecting guards as well. thanx wayne

 

Not sure on who has the best price, but here is the part # 11-1112 for the fork springs.

 

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/prodSearchResults.aspx?yearID=1991&makeID=48&modelID=529

[Guest reddogut]

**** UPDATE ****

 

As it turns out, the fork seals are leaking. I don't exactly understand why I have put about 250 miles on this bike since I bought it with out a drop of leakage and now all of a sudden the left fork is leaking like a siv. Anyway, so I am going to do the seals and new progressive springs at the same time. I know where I am going to get my springs. Does anyone sell fork seal kits, with out having to track down each individual part(s) to do the job.

[Squidley]

**** UPDATE ****

 

As it turns out, the fork seals are leaking. I don't exactly understand why I have put about 250 miles on this bike since I bought it with out a drop of leakage and now all of a sudden the left fork is leaking like a siv. Anyway, so I am going to do the seals and new progressive springs at the same time. I know where I am going to get my springs. Does anyone sell fork seal kits, with out having to track down each individual part(s) to do the job.

 

 

Mind you this is just MY opinion, buy factory Yamaha fork seals, as far as a kit....I have never heard of a complete kit. Also if your going to remove the forks from the bike, and you haven't really attemped replacing fork seals, let a dealer do it. The reason I say this is that they have all the nice little tools to do it and are skilled at getting it done without problems. I know there are many of you yelling at the computer that it's not that hard. But the last thing you would want is to make a mistake, and have a leak after you have done it all.