Dragonslayer Posted April 10, 2008 #1 Posted April 10, 2008 I discovered the other day that my left side blinkers weren't blinking, Checked the bulbs front and back which were good. Then discovered that lead (black & Brown) to left rear blinker had been pinched and shorted. I repaired the lead, checked and replaced fuses as needed. Now niether side blinks and no rear lights other then tail light. Front running lights are on but neither blinks, Nor does the blinker indicators on the dash. The hazard switch doesn't seem to do any thing. But it reads ok when doing pin out test. I thought that since I've been caught in several rides lately in the rain that moisture and/or corrosion might be a factor. :lightbulb:oh yea!. Wasn't that the problem that someone else was having on the North Ga 2nd Annual M&E that was covered in detail on that thread last week? :scratchchin:The problem did show up after I trusted 86ers weather report for that ride. Note to self: Go back and reread that thread. I Have taken turn signal switch apart, cleaned and reassembled. I believe I have narrowed it down to the signal flasher relay and/or Canceling unit but am not sure exactly which device is which. Tracing out color coded wiring it appears to me that both devices are combined together within the same little Black box. Is that possible?
dfitzbiz Posted April 10, 2008 #2 Posted April 10, 2008 Sorry I can't help with your electrical problem. I was just wondering; If the blinkers don't blink and the flashers don't flash, what did the pistons do??:rotf:
Pilot Posted April 10, 2008 #3 Posted April 10, 2008 It's possible the relay got fried when you had the short. Check to see if you have 12 volts to the relay when you turn on the signal lights. If you do and it does not click then I would suspect that it's bad. You will have to test and eliminate things one at a time. Good luck and be patient you’ll find the problem.
Gearhead Posted April 10, 2008 #4 Posted April 10, 2008 Yeah, I'm pretty sure the flasher and canceller ARE parts of the same unit, same box. It's probably expensive. I bet you could find a way to substitute a cheap automotive flasher, but would have no self-cancelling. Jeremy
Dragonslayer Posted April 10, 2008 Author #5 Posted April 10, 2008 Sorry I can't help with your electrical problem. I was just wondering; If the blinkers don't blink and the flashers don't flash, what did the pistons do??:rotf: The Blinkers don't Blink:bang head: and the Flasher don't Flash But the pistons are still singing rock and Roll :guitarist 2::guitarist 2: Dragonslayer :15_8_211[1]:sings bass and Honey :15_9_28[1]:sings tenor:happy65: and rest of the pack :dancefool::dancefool::cool10::cool10: just joins right in there:group cheers:
Dragonslayer Posted April 10, 2008 Author #6 Posted April 10, 2008 PS: I Love your signature, I resemble that statement
Neil86 Posted April 10, 2008 #7 Posted April 10, 2008 Okay...one side wasn't flashing, repaired short now nothing on either side. You mentioned only rear lights working are tail light and the running lights on front. Are you saying brake lights also not working? Recheck for power on the Signal fuse, it supplies power to turn signal, brake switches, horns, tach, voltmeter. If everything else works there....go to the Hazard switch and check (with Key on)for 12V leaving switch on the Brown/Yellow wire going to the flasher relay.
GeorgeS Posted April 10, 2008 #8 Posted April 10, 2008 Did you check the if the " B " wire to the Flasher Unit, actually has a ground. Also, check for voltage to the Flasher Unit, AND to the Hazard Switch. Voltage for the Flasher Unit, Comes from the Hazard Switch !! If the Haz switch happens to be set In Between Off, and ON, there will be No voltage supply to the flasher unit. If Haz, sw is NOT in OFF position, turn sigs will not work. OR, the Hazard Sw, might be bad. Check wireing from Haz SW to the Fuse that supplies power. Then check that the 12 V from Haz, Sw. is actually getting to the turn sig sw, then to the flasher unit.
motorbiketim Posted April 11, 2008 #9 Posted April 11, 2008 My 83 turn signals quit last year. After trying flashers, fuses, etc. I unplugged the self cancelling unit and they worked fine. I have just left it unplugged. I'm not sure that the 87 uses the same system?
Dragonslayer Posted April 12, 2008 Author #10 Posted April 12, 2008 Okay...one side wasn't flashing, repaired short now nothing on either side. You mentioned only rear lights working are tail light and the running lights on front. Are you saying brake lights also not working? Recheck for power on the Signal fuse, it supplies power to turn signal, brake switches, horns, tach, voltmeter. If everything else works there....go to the Hazard switch and check (with Key on)for 12V leaving switch on the Brown/Yellow wire going to the flasher relay. brake light and tail light work, narrowed it down to relay and hazard switch> I did verify that flasher relay, cancelling relay as well as the starting circuit cut out relay are all combined in the small little back box shown in earlier post. Leave it to Yamaha, They thought they made it tamper proof but I did get inside the little sucker anyway and found one of the relays fried.
Dragonslayer Posted April 12, 2008 Author #11 Posted April 12, 2008 My 83 turn signals quit last year. After trying flashers, fuses, etc. I unplugged the self cancelling unit and they worked fine. I have just left it unplugged. I'm not sure that the 87 uses the same system? No they dont in 1986 the combined the starting circuit cut out relay in the same box with the cancelling relay and the flasher relay. But, I did see that the part you need is on ebay right now with a group of 5 other misc electrical parts that fit a bunch of different models including youirs but not mine. Good chance to get it if you wanted to fix it. It doesn't look like anyone is bidding on it.
Dragonslayer Posted April 12, 2008 Author #12 Posted April 12, 2008 Did you check the if the " B " wire to the Flasher Unit, actually has a ground. Yep good Ground Also, check for voltage to the Flasher Unit, AND to the Hazard Switch. Voltage for the Flasher Unit, Comes from the Hazard Switch !! If the Haz switch happens to be set In Between Off, and ON, there will be No voltage supply to the flasher unit. If Haz, sw is NOT in OFF position, turn sigs will not work. Not that checked that OR, the Hazard Sw, might be bad. Check wireing from Haz SW to the Fuse that supplies power. Have one bad contact point on Hazard switch and flasher relay fried, Looking for parts now. Then check that the 12 V from Haz, Sw. is actually getting to the turn sig sw, then to the flasher unit. George as usual, YOU Da Man, I appreciate your detailed trouble shooting Help, you've helped me get my Ox out of the ditch on more than several occassions. Rest assured before the summer is over I'm gonna find a way to ride to your side of the country to catch up with on a ride somewhere and meet you in person. I need the Iron Butt patches anyway.
Dragonslayer Posted April 12, 2008 Author #13 Posted April 12, 2008 Yeah, I'm pretty sure the flasher and canceller ARE parts of the same unit, same box. It's probably expensive. I bet you could find a way to substitute a cheap automotive flasher, but would have no self-cancelling. Jeremy Yep, you were right they both are combined, but, not only that, That little box also includes the starting circuit cut out relay if you eliminate the whole box the engine dont start. :soapbox:What was Yamaha thinking? I Know what they were thinking take a bunch of little Inexpensive parts and put them together in such a way that if one goes out we stupid customers have no choice but to buy a very very very expensive combined part. A flasher relay is about what $4.00. This part thru Yamaha is $180.00. As Long as there is a Ebay Yamaha can Shove it.
Gearhead Posted April 24, 2008 #14 Posted April 24, 2008 Well, Slayer, why don't you quit beating around the bush and say what you mean! :-) I bet you could sub a cheap flasher, give up the cancelling, and find a way to wire up the starting relays as well. But it might just be better to find another part! Jeremy
Dragonslayer Posted April 25, 2008 Author #15 Posted April 25, 2008 Well, Slayer, why don't you quit beating around the bush and say what you mean! :-) I bet you could sub a cheap flasher, give up the cancelling, and find a way to wire up the starting relays as well. But it might just be better to find another part! Jeremy Yea I know, sometimes I go on a rant> It's just that I've learned to vent when something angers me. Once I've done so I've expelled the negitive energy of the anger and move on to a move constructive energy flow by resolution. When I do it in writing at least no one gets an ear blast by hearing me yell and scream. I apologize for the anger blast. I did find the replayment relay, but now I still need the hazard switch and have not been able to locate one so far. Thanks for the advice, I had considered that but I didn't want to risk screwing anything else up by altering the wiring system as complicated as it is. I'd rather swap the parts if i can find them.
cpudoc Posted April 25, 2008 #16 Posted April 25, 2008 Is the relay for the signals up under the dash in that row of relays, if so which one???
GeorgeS Posted April 27, 2008 #18 Posted April 27, 2008 Yea I know, sometimes I go on a rant> It's just that I've learned to vent when something angers me. Once I've done so I've expelled the negitive energy of the anger and move on to a move constructive energy flow by resolution. When I do it in writing at least no one gets an ear blast by hearing me yell and scream. I apologize for the anger blast. I did find the replayment relay, but now I still need the hazard switch and have not been able to locate one so far. Thanks for the advice, I had considered that but I didn't want to risk screwing anything else up by altering the wiring system as complicated as it is. I'd rather swap the parts if i can find them. Check Service Manual, page 7-11, the Starting Circuit !! Very Complicated, read the text on that page. Hey Atlanta !! I know how to ByPass the whole damm thing, with One DPST switch. My Safty backup Starting Circuit, in case some of all that crap on page 7-11 fails !! he he he
Dragonslayer Posted April 29, 2008 Author #19 Posted April 29, 2008 Is the relay for the signals up under the dash in that row of relays, if so which one??? Yep it's the center one in the row and looks like this. see picture
Dragonslayer Posted April 29, 2008 Author #20 Posted April 29, 2008 Check Service Manual, page 7-11, the Starting Circuit !! Very Complicated, read the text on that page. Hey Atlanta !! I know how to ByPass the whole damm thing, with One DPST switch. My Safty backup Starting Circuit, in case some of all that crap on page 7-11 fails !! he he he Hey George, I would check but don't have the manual with me right now, sure wish I did cause I'm stuck in Ashville N.C. with a whole new problem. Horrible screeching noise that seems to come from the instrument gauge cluster. starts around 35 to 40 mph and doesn't quit until below 10 mph. it almost sounds like a warning buzzer but also kinda sounds winning gears or bearings. It was freezing cold when the problem started, Got any ideas? What if any warning sounds generate from gauge cluster?
Squeeze Posted April 29, 2008 #21 Posted April 29, 2008 Hey George, I would check but don't have the manual with me right now, sure wish I did cause I'm stuck in Ashville N.C. with a whole new problem. Horrible screeching noise that seems to come from the instrument gauge cluster. starts around 35 to 40 mph and doesn't quit until below 10 mph. it almost sounds like a warning buzzer but also kinda sounds winning gears or bearings. It was freezing cold when the problem started, Got any ideas? What if any warning sounds generate from gauge cluster? That's the Speedo Line squealing ...
Dragonslayer Posted April 29, 2008 Author #22 Posted April 29, 2008 That's the Speedo Line squealing ... I had a sneeking suspicion it might be that ,but, then it sounded like an alarm buzzer and I wasn't sure. I'm gonna disconnect and see if that shuts her up so I can get back to Atlanta. I'll let you know.
Dragonslayer Posted May 13, 2008 Author #23 Posted May 13, 2008 Got the blinker and Flasher issue resolved by finally correcting poor contact connections on plug in pins throughout circuit. Which seems to be a Reaccurring and aggravating problem on the overall wiring system. Lesson relearned: Never overlook or fail to do a pin out continuity test on all pins of all quick connect plugs whenever you are having electrical problems on these bikes.
Gearhead Posted May 13, 2008 #24 Posted May 13, 2008 Congrats, and a very good lesson for all of us. BTW, it's not just these bikes, it's pretty much all bike and cars for that matter. They never assemble them with any grease. Jeremy
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