Little Red Scooter followed me home...

[NewbeeMC9]

Fed her some premium and named her Reba.

 

So I will start my Saga here, (please move to watering hole if this isn't the right place)

 

She's an 89 with about 83K miles on her. Supposedly she's only been over twice and he saw one of them. he ran the air at 0 on the and it was on the kickstand both times. Scars on fairing to prove it. May have to get a mudflap girl decal to cover it. She has a trailer hitch with the chrome coming off of it. slight dry/sun fade but I think she'll clean up. Needs acouple screwholes adressed on the class panel and Gotta try greatwhite's plastic restore trick too Came with original tool kit in fancy case too.

 

I finally got to run desulfate on the battery and get it charged up enough to crank. PO said coil was recently replaced. Good on voltmeter when running.

She starts, all 4 exhaust pipes get hot. She idles at 1000 and you can take the choke off. Will die if you rev to quick off Idle. but will slugishly go past 2500 and then rev on up. I have put Seafoam in tank.

 

List of what the hecks did i get into:

 

-Has E-4 code.

 

-Gotta drill aircleaner cover screw to remove since its corroded and stripped.

- Now get new screw

 

-check for diaphram moving slides together. 3 together one bouncey. so far #1 has holes and has been pathced, #2 has been patched.

 

- maybe get away with shotgun and synchronize:confused24:

 

-throttle, has foam ring, doesn't seem to return, not sure if that's right. may be intentional resistance.

 

- she's a weeper, i think I caused it bringing her home, that will have to be addressed.

 

- fork seals claimed at about a year old, ask po if he replaced springs.

 

- if TCI working, consider replace diodes/transistors or whathavya.- (have to look that up again)

ok maybe not, cranked her up and port/ front ( #1 i think) not getting hot.

 

-looks like leaking a little oil around the port side panel, Tranny?. Somebody has had the cover off.

 

-exhuast may be leaking and/or baffle loose. may have to adress that.

 

-rear high center led light bar cover is missing. works and led's are red. just cosmetic.

 

-couple stitches on seat just under drivers legs. may have to cover or address.

 

 

Thought I'd keep/update the list here so y'all could ponder along with me and chime in with fun and the wealth of wiseness.

 

Thanks, and let the adventures continue.

Edited March 8, 2016 by NewbeeMC9

[BlueSky]

Congratulations on your new toy! Post some photos when you get a chance.

[bongobobny]

Check your diaphragms for pin holes...

[NewbeeMC9]

Will do bongobobny.

 

I did get the air cleaner off, and cranked it up. it would Idle and bogged when trying to rev-up. the rear port slide kinda bounced at idle and the other three were still. I could leave the choke on and get it to rev a little and the rear port slide would lead and the other 3 would quickly follow and appeared appeared evenly. The stbd rear would occasionally sputter/spit back up at me. Think the Shotgun will do the trick ? I am running seafoam in the tank.

 

 

 

also kinda of a knock, I cant quite tell if it was just the backfire of the stbd/rear or there is something amiss. this is the only venture I've heard running. Might be the baffles in the collectors. not sure.

 

have a good day

[BlueSky]

It's not that unusual for these engines to spit back when giving it throttle with the air filter out. Also, my 89 will make a knocking sound when it is running rough at idle. I suspect when you get the carbs and ignition sorted out, it won't knock.

[NewbeeMC9]

OK, did the CLASS E4 solder repair. CLASS Seams to be working Rear holding air, maybe lose a couple pounds after you turn it off. Front did E-6 on auto. Turned it off and and turned it back on in manual and it held 10 psi. Didn't try anything else. It may have progressive springs in the front. Seems like a win. only time will tell. :-) Yay. and thanks.

[NewbeeMC9]

After that started her up and she fires right up Check the temp on the exhaust pipes, and the port/front(#1 i think) is cold to the touch. Should i try pinning out TCI or just get new one from the Eukraneans and be done with it? Would like reliability, may be worth the peace of mind.

 

Thoughts and opinions?

[BlueSky]

Could be other things other than the TCI. I'm not expert in this area but check the spark plug wires, coils etc. I'm sure there is lots of info on all this on the site.

[Flyinfool]

Sounds like you are gonna have some fun.

 

Since you say the carb slides are not all moving the same I would get the carbs working before even thinking about replacing the TCI. I have never been one to throw money at the problem till it goes away. I will work to only fix what needs fixing. At this point you know that the carbs need work, I would start there. It could just fix all of the other problems.

 

As mentioned these bikes run terrible when the air filter cover is off, or the air filter element is missing, or even if someone drilled holes in the air filter box to get more air in.

[NewbeeMC9]

I guess the shotgun is next when I can get to it. Just thinking I could throw it out there to the vast wisdom of the board and maybe and save some trouble. If somebody already knew the answer because they've been there. Plus if I need to order one, I need to get that going.

 

I guess the shoutgun is cheap and easy and I can access the diaphragms.

 

Now to find that pinning out the TCI and coil testing thread....

[Prairiehammer]

and the port/front(#1 i think) is cold to the touch.

 

Port/front (left front) is number 2 cylinder.

The most common fault is an obstructed pilot circuit in the carb.

I recently worked on a 1983 Venture in which TWO cylinders were cold and it still idled and ran good enough to load onto a trailer (and it was burdened with a sidecar!). Owner commented that "it was running fairly good and but WOW! when it "got on the pipe" it was a rocket!"

That reaction is another tell that the pilot circuit is FUBAR.

[NewbeeMC9]

Thanks Prariehammer and Fliyingfool,

 

Kinda what I was thinking when I got it, but sometimes when one thinks too much, it's nice to hear a voice of reasoning outside your own head. :-)

 

 

Well got one side off. the diaphragm I suspected did have a hole in it, and both had been patched up previously. Drained gas looked pretty clean. Will shotgun when I get a chance. Looking at getting new diaphragms. I suspect the other side will have been patched up too.

 

Thinking JPM, or the ones on ebay. Seems the JPM's might last longer. hadn't found others.

[Flyinfool]

I prefer the diaphragms from Sirius. They install just like the factory ones. The JPM ones require a minor modification to the slides that will make it difficult or impossible to use other than the JPM in the future.

 

http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?search=search&make=2&model=xvz1300&part=1&partno=&x=45&y=12

[flyday58]

I rode my '83 around on 2 cylinders for a couple months not knowing 2 were dead; I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't maintain speed going over a bridge and why it was drinking gas like a say lerr. Mine turned out to be the TCI, but the others speak wisdom in telling you not to throw money at it. I totally agree about the carbs, took 3 cleanings to get mine right.

 

Worth a peak inside the TCI, though...

[NewbeeMC9]

Went ahead and got the JPM since the others were not in stock. Received them today, so maybe the shotgun blast and the diaphragms replaced this weekend and got the gages in too so maybe a crank and a sync. See how this goes.

 

 

Then maybe the TCI is ok and can discuss preventative work on it. Hope we get lucky!

[NewbeeMC9]

OK, Update.

 

Shotgun Shooting and new diaphragms and new idle screws.

 

Put battery in , clicked run until Fuel pump stopped coming on to fill the bowls,

 

Hit start, light goes out but she wont turn over.

 

Take battery out, its at 12.5V and so charge it. Put battery back in and still wont turn over.:confused:

 

hmmm, hadn't had a chance to search yet.

[Patmac6075]

Simple things first...(not because I think you're stupid, but rather because I'm stupid and it's what I would probably overlook). Is the bike in gear and clutch not pulled in? Is the kill switch set to "RUN"?

[NewbeeMC9]

Well i take my turns, and will prolly have another on the stoopid. Lol My old husky had a sticker that said "Turn the gas on! DUMMY!"

 

And yes it was in gear, thank you.

Edited March 28, 2016 by NewbeeMC9
oh yeah

[NewbeeMC9]

Now to pulls a saprky plug, still not hitting on #2

[NewbeeMC9]

Sparky plug has sparky...

 

Put new one in.

 

Drained bowl againon #2 carby, gas gamout. looked and smelled ok

 

Left drain open and turned on key, no pump turn on,

 

Started engine, running with drain open and nothing coming out. hmm, Methinks it might be suffering from stuck float valve.

 

 

Open to Ideas, would like to not pull the carbs. But if that's the only way. Anyone? Anyone?

[Karaboo]

Try tapping that float bowl with a dowel or plastic screwdriver handle while the bike is running.

[NewbeeMC9]

I will try that, thanks.

 

Thinking remove air filter box too and shoot some carb cleaner down in the inlet tube where the hose attaches. and let it soak.

 

Need to pull box to get to TCI anyways, I reckon.

[NewbeeMC9]

Well it starts right up, and runs better, still cold #2 . Revs good. Drained some more gas out of #2 and it smelled OK. Couldn't get more out.

 

Let it run for a while and tapped #2 best I could. #2 exhaust got warmer but could still lay hand on it. Figuring just warming from compression.

 

Will try again next week. Have a good weekend.

[flyday58]

Good Morning Newb. Just reread to entire thread as a refresher. Right off the bat you said all four pipes were getting hot. Then you said #2 wasn't. You also said the PO replaced 'the coil', do we know which?

 

Are all the plug wires original? The caps have resistors in them that can rust and interfere with the spark, especially under load. If you take them apart CAREFULLY, mind the small pieces and the assembly order. Mine were knackered (UK term) and had to be cleaned up to get a good resistance reading.

 

You've got petrol in the carby so I would think the pipe should at least get hot, even if it wouldn't run well. WIth the air cleaner off do all the butterflies open when you twist the thorttle? Should be able to slide the slide out of the way and look down inside.

 

I have read on the site that Seafoam is good about eventually ruining the plugs, and some folks put in new sets after a heavy treatment of the stuff. Might be worth having a new set available.

 

So. Have you peeked inside the TCI? After all my futzing around I found mine rusted, corroded, exfoliated, 86ed, all of the above. The fact that it would even run was an act against nature. Again I agree with Da Fool, you don't just throw money at old mechanical beasties, but if you haven't found any chewed-up wiring or corroded terminals in the ignition circuits, I'd be taking a wee little peek inside the TCI. PITA to get to but might be worth it. Cheers.

[NewbeeMC9]

Good points Flyday58,

 

The coil was the altenater/generator coil that the PO replaced. Seems to charge when running. I When I drained the #2 Carb , I didn't get much out. And then when it was running, I drained it and didn't get any. So I think I do need to get fuel flowing in there. I pulled the plug and it is sparking like a mad dog. Put a new one in. ( I'll replace all after I get it going). Had'n't thought about the butterfly, will check.

 

Yeah, I plan on checking the TCI innards after I get this fuel thing going. I was happy to see the #2 spark flashing. Hoping not to have to pull the carbs. But may happen.

 

 

Working in limited time and limited space.

 

Thanks and have Fool of a weekend.