Help?!?!?!?

[djadam]

Hello everyone,

I have been a supporting member for over a year now, and I have to say that the information on here is fantastic. I have already done so much to my 06 RSV by myself, because of help from other great members on here.

I am wondering if there are any members that live close to the Boston area? I would love to meet with anyone whose mechanical skills are better than mine, and that won't take much. I don't really have a reliable Dealer near me, and no shop that I trust too much to work on my bike. I took it in for a rear tire last year, and I'm wondering if it went back together properly. I've seen a lot of talk on here about washers not being put back on in the proper order and so on.

I also need to replace my front brake pads. I have tried looking for the info on here but for some reason when I try and search stuff, it never really pops up with the info I'm looking for. Is there a trick to it?

Is there a section with step by step directions for doing front brake pads on an 06 RSV? I do have some ability, I think I just let myself get too nervous sometimes.

Thanks for any and all help!!

It's almost riding time here in New England, be safe!!

 

Adam

[bongobobny]

Hmmm, sorry, do not live near Boston but I'm sure someone will op n here soon enough!

 

The front brakes are pretty simple to do, just 2 bolts to remove the calipers, then find something to pry the pads as far apart as possible, then remove the old ones and put the new ones in. It's pretty much the same as on a car, no real special tricks.

 

As far as the pads a lot of us use EBC HH style pads...

[djadam]

I did buy the EBC HH style for the front. My biggest concern is talk I have seen about shims, and don't put them in wrong, or lose them. When you open the calipers up for the new pads, are you supposed to take the cover off of the master cylinder? Do you have to bleed the brake lines after replacing the pads? I am only doing the front. I thnk I saw something on here about not having to take the tire off. Is it easier with the tire off, or is it easy enough with the tire on?

 

Thanks for your help

[steamer]

I did buy the EBC HH style for the front. My biggest concern is talk I have seen about shims, and don't put them in wrong, or lose them. When you open the calipers up for the new pads, are you supposed to take the cover off of the master cylinder? Do you have to bleed the brake lines after replacing the pads? I am only doing the front. I thnk I saw something on here about not having to take the tire off. Is it easier with the tire off, or is it easy enough with the tire on

 

Thanks for your help

 

No shims on the front brakes that I've ever seen. You should bleed off the brake fluid to relieve the pressure on them, makes it easier to pry the calipers open. THIS IS IMPORTANT! cover all the plastic parts on the bike to keep the brake fluid from getting on them. If brake fluid gets on any of the plastic, it will eat it! Another reason for bleeding the brakes is to replace with fresh dot4 fluid. Make sure you use dot4, it will handle the heat better then dot3. No you do not have to take the tire off to change pads. You can check out the procedure in the tech section. there is a tech manual there.

[djadam]

Do you need any special tools to bleed the brakes? I have never done that before.

Thanks for your help

[steamer]

Go to youtube for some great how-to diy info. most all bike are the same when it comes to hydraulic brakes. Just search motorcycle brake bleeding. you will find numerous how to video's. There are brake bleeding tools that you can buy at any auto parts store. or you can do it the old fashion way.

[Great White]

No shims on the front brakes that I've ever seen. You should bleed off the brake fluid to relieve the pressure on them, makes it easier to pry the calipers open. THIS IS IMPORTANT! cover all the plastic parts on the bike to keep the brake fluid from getting on them. If brake fluid gets on any of the plastic, it will eat it! Another reason for bleeding the brakes is to replace with fresh dot4 fluid. Make sure you use dot4, it will handle the heat better then dot3. No you do not have to take the tire off to change pads. You can check out the procedure in the tech section. there is a tech manual there.

 

Eats paint too. Protect any painted surfaces from drips or splashes.

 

Don't panic if you do get some on paint, just flush with water ASAP. Little soap would go a long way too.

 

Other edge of that sword is don't get water in the brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water and ruins it's properties for use in a brake system.

[bill in mn]

Do you need any special tools to bleed the brakes? I have never done that before.

Thanks for your help

 

Yes special tools help but are not needed. I have a friend that's a brake pro (He Grew up in Duluth, MN all hills ) They learn to do brakes in grade school . You should get someone to help you with the bleeding just to show you how. And without the Bleeder tool you will need two people. Get help the first time and you'll be fine.

[Great White]

Do you need any special tools to bleed the brakes? I have never done that before.

Thanks for your help

 

Nope. Just tools to get the master open and to crack the breeder screws. Phillips (or JIS if you want the exactly correct screw driver) and an 8 MM wrench. Length of clear tubing ( to pop on the bleeders) and a jar to catch the fluid. Clear tubing and a glass mason jar will let you see bubbles coming out and keeps air from getting back in.

 

In a nutshell:

 

1. Slowly squeeze handle in to the grip and hold it there.

 

2. Crack bleeder screw and see if fluid comes out.

 

3. Once pressure has all bleed out, tighten bleeder screw.

 

4. repeat from step one until brake lever has good feel and no more air comes out of bleeder screw at #2 .

 

Keep and eye on fluid and top up as necessary.

 

Sounds easy, but it's kind of a slow process and trapped air can be a biotch sometimes.

 

DO NOT shake the can/bottle of brake fluid. All you will be doing is introducing more air bubbles to the fluid before you even put it in the system. I even go so far as to put the bottle under a vacuum the day before and let it sit overnight to draw out any air in the fluid before putting it in the system.

 

You can get all fancy with "speed bleeder" screws, single man bleeder "kits" and vacuum pumps, but it's not really needed on a bike (unless you want them that is).

Edited February 23, 2016 by Great White

[djadam]

Thanks Great White. Any idea on the size of clear tube?

I have been watching some youtube videos. Lots of wack jobs out there don't even open the master cylinder before compressing the pistons. That doesn't make sense to me. I know it's probably better to bleed the brakes, but do you have to just because you changed the pads?

 

You guys are great, thanks for all the help. Hopefully I'll be doing this work over the weekend.

Adam

[Trader]

You don't have to do it when you change pads...but most flush the fluid ( bleeding until system is full of fresh fluid) every 2 years.

I don't think anyone answered you about the clutch....you bleed it the same way as brakes and use the same type brake fluid

[Great White]

Thanks Great White. Any idea on the size of clear tube?

I have been watching some youtube videos. Lots of wack jobs out there don't even open the master cylinder before compressing the pistons. That doesn't make sense to me. I know it's probably better to bleed the brakes, but do you have to just because you changed the pads?

 

You guys are great, thanks for all the help. Hopefully I'll be doing this work over the weekend.

Adam

 

You don't have to bleed brakes if just changing pads.

 

You don't have to open the master at all if you're just changing pads and have not added fluid to the system as the pads wore down.

 

If you add fluid, you need to open the master and remove the excess as it will overfill the reservoir.

 

However, given how long brake pads usually last on the MAJORITY of bikes, it's worth your while to change the fluid when you change the pads.

 

Except for those riders who put serious mileage on their machines, brake pads likely last 4-5 years. At that point the brake fluid can use a change as in it anhydrous and sucks moisture right out of the air. That moisture allows the brake fluid to boil when braking and causes a "spongy" lever. Done properly, changing the fluid doesn't introduce air into the lines and is easy peasy. Pump the old stuff out and pour the new stuff in at the same time.

 

Tubing is fairly small, whatever fits on the bleeder screw. I just use whatever I have laying around if I manually bleed.

 

I use a pressure bleeder and fill my systems from the caliper up to the master instead of master down to the calipers. air want to flow up, not down. But that's for a fill after the system has been opened, not required for a simple pad change.

 

I missed the clutch question too. Same process as the brakes. Just make sure you get tight fitting vinyl hose and watch to make sure you don't spill the fluid. My 83 had it's entire LH lower frame rail paint stripper to bare steel becuase someone had down a poor job in the past on a bleed job and left the fluid to eat the paint....

[Kiwiroyale]

Nope. Just tools to get the master open and to crack the breeder screws. Phillips (or JIS if you want the exactly correct screw driver) and an 8 MM wrench. Length of clear tubing ( to pop on the bleeders) and a jar to catch the fluid. Clear tubing and a glass mason jar will let you see bubbles coming out and keeps air from getting back in.

 

In a nutshell:

 

1. Slowly squeeze handle in to the grip and hold it there.

 

2. Crack bleeder screw and see if fluid comes out.

 

3. Once pressure has all bleed out, tighten bleeder screw.

 

4. repeat from step one until brake lever has good feel and no more air comes out of bleeder screw at #2 .

 

Keep and eye on fluid and top up as necessary.

 

Sounds easy, but it's kind of a slow process and trapped air can be a biotch sometimes.

 

DO NOT shake the can/bottle of brake fluid. All you will be dooing is introducing more air bubbles to the fluid before you even put it in the system.

 

You can get all fancy with "speed bleeder" screws, single man bleeder "kits" and vacuum pumps, but it's not really needed on a bike (unless you want them that is).

 

Gday, good easy steps from Great White, BUT make sure at POINT #3 that you keep holding the lever IN whilst you tighten up the bleeder screw, otherwise you will suck in a whole lot of air, ( if I had not seen it done I would not mention it!!!!) if you can't reach the bleeder with your "normal" sized arms then "hold the lever against the grip with a strip of tape or similar whilst you tighten the bleeder nipple.

 

Brakes are simple really, as with clutch bleeding, Yale your time and photos BEFOREHAND, to reference against. I brought a little "one man" bleeding bottle for about 5 bucks, I am not at home at the moment but I will post a picture tonight for you. This is the best little simplistic device I own, and it catches the fluid as well, I uses it mainly on my cars, but it's nice and tidy to use it on my bikes as well.

 

Steve

[camos]

 

In a nutshell:

 

1. Slowly squeeze handle in to the grip and hold it there.

 

2. Crack bleeder screw and see if fluid comes out.

 

3. Once pressure has all bleed out, tighten bleeder screw.

 

4. repeat from step one until brake lever has good feel and no more air comes out of bleeder screw at #2 .

This method seems to be the most popular. At least it is the one I hear about the most. As often as not because people are having difficulty getting all the air out. Really long arms are required to squeeze the lever while tightening the bleeder valve.

 

This is how I do it. One man easy peesy and works every time.

 

 

You can get all fancy with "speed bleeder" screws, single man bleeder "kits" and vacuum pumps, but it's not really needed on a bike (unless you want them that is).

That is so true. Keep it simple. Better to buy beer than unnecessary tools.

[rougeray]

I think everyone has answered your question concerning changing of the pads and changing the fluid in the clutch and brake reservoirs. I would like to emphasize that all of the hydraulic systems should be flushed at least once a year. This is easily accomplished by replacing the bleeder screws with Speedbleeders

 

One other question though is how many miles on your bike? I have an 07 and have 90,000 on mine and the front brakes are still good. Had the front tire changed last week so I had to pull the front calipers and all looks good. I do live in the flatlands of south LA though. &

[djadam]

I have an 06 RSV, I bought it last year with 13k on it. This will be my second full season on it, and I just don't like the way the front brakes are stopping the bike. I noticed a difference from when I first bought it to the end of the season last year. It now has about 19k on it. The dealer I bought if from supposedly went through the whole bike and anything 1/2 gone or more they replaced. But, then when it failed inspection for the rear tire tread 2 months later, I found out that this dealer sucks. Mostly my fault for not checking when I picked it up, but I was excited and just took off. Then when I got the new tire, the shop I took it too replaced the rear pads because they were almost down to the metal. Simply for that reason, before this season kicks in, I want to replace the front pads.

Sorry for rambling and giving you way more info than you asked for.

 

Thanks,

Adam

[Kiwiroyale]

G'day again Adam, here is the pic of the one man bleeder. I like you gain so much knowledge from the fantastic people on this forum ( I am a relative newbie here), this is just an easy and very tidy way for me to bleed my fluid lines, and as has already been stated, do this every year if you can, it really does get neglected on bikes and cars alike.

 

I have not worked out how to add text to each photo (knowing this lot though someone will tell me on reading this!!!!!), anyway the first pic is as I brought it, complete with attachments and lines, the second pic is in in situ, I attach my ring spanner to the nipple (zerk, or whatever you call it in your land) then attach the line, a magnet attaches to the rear of the bottle, brake rotor holds it well for me, you know now how to do the rest.

 

What I like about this method is that I can see the bubbles or NOT as the fluid flows down the transparent line, I can also see the change in OLD FLUID TO NEW if I am flushing an old system.

 

Oh and I attached this to my bike for your photo, otherwise I would be very worried about all that air in there!!!!

[camos]

the second pic is in in situ, I attach my ring spanner to the nipple (zerk, or whatever you call it in your land) then attach the line, a magnet attaches to the rear of the bottle, brake rotor holds it well for me, you know now how to do the rest.

 

What I like about this method is that I can see the bubbles or NOT as the fluid flows down the transparent line, I can also see the change in OLD FLUID TO NEW if I am flushing an old system.

That is a slick little unit. Unfortunately they seem to be only available from Australia. The cost of shipping would likely be 3 times the price of the unit.

 

Have you used this tool yet? If it is mounted on the caliper at the top right instead of the bottom with the hose looped up from the bleeder valve it will work much better. The way it is pictured, as fluid is pushed out of the valve gravity will make it run down pushing air up towards the valve. That is not a good thing. If the hose is looped up from the valve there will always be fluid sitting on top of the valve so when you let go of the lever no air will be drawn back into the system.

 

Didn't look well enough. They are available on Amazon, just not called Repco.

Edited February 26, 2016 by camos
Add more info

[Kiwiroyale]

Haha mate!!! It does not matter where it is situated!!(yes I have used it numerous times) the fluid is UNDER PRESSURE hence it will flow OUT of the nipple with either air bubbles or hopefully not! Forget about where the bottle is attached too, when you are holding the lever in and you tighten up the nipple that's it!!!!

 

DONT LET GO OF THE LEVER UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHTENED THE "valve" (nipple in my land) back up!!!

 

If you like I will try and post a video for you?

 

Steve

Edited February 26, 2016 by Kiwiroyale

[camos]

DONT LET GO OF THE LEVER UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHTENED THE "valve" (nipple in my land) back up!!!

 

If you like I will try and post a video for you?

 

Steve

I guess I'm not built right. I can't reach the left front valve while pushing down on the rear brake pedal. Have to bend like a pretzel to do the rear valve while pressing on the pedal. It's awkward pushing on the pedal with my foot when doing the valve at the steering head. Accomplishing one out of four valves easily doesn't add up for me. I do like the setup though, it's nice and tidy.

[Great White]

Yet another good reason to get rid of those stupid linked brakes....

[Kiwiroyale]

I guess I'm not built right. I can't reach the left front valve while pushing down on the rear brake pedal. Have to bend like a pretzel to do the rear valve while pressing on the pedal. It's awkward pushing on the pedal with my foot when doing the valve at the steering head. Accomplishing one out of four valves easily doesn't add up for me. I do like the setup though, it's nice and tidy.

 

As Great White says, it's a great reason to de-link the brakes, I did with my '83, run two braided lines from the front master, plugged the rear, nice and tidy with a much better "feel" and stopping power both ends.

 

Otherwise I guess it's a two "man" job Clive!!!

 

Or... I would rig a rope around the rear brake pedal, run it under the "crash bars" or lower frame, ( so rope has downward action on pedal when pulled) by simply pulling on the rope downward pressure is applied to pedal, presto!!! should allow you to work the zerk ( sorry couldn't help myself!!!) I just quickly tried it ( rope test) on my '83, worked fine FYI.

 

Steve

[camos]

Yet another good reason to get rid of those stupid linked brakes....

There are good reasons to de-link the brakes but I don't think this is one of them.

[camos]

As Great White says, it's a great reason to de-link the brakes, I did with my '83, run two braided lines from the front master, plugged the rear, nice and tidy with a much better "feel" and stopping power both ends.

As I said to GW, de-linking won't make a difference here. A normal human cannot tighten the left bleeder while squeezing the right brake lever. There are of course several alternative methods to accomplish the same thing but non of them are as simple or as bulletproof as the one I have suggested.

 

Otherwise I guess it's a two "man" job Clive!!!

Not so if it is done the way I suggested.

 

Or... I would rig a rope around the rear brake pedal, run it under the "crash bars" or lower frame, ( so rope has downward action on pedal when pulled) by simply pulling on the rope downward pressure is applied to pedal, presto!!! should allow you to work the zerk ( sorry couldn't help myself!!!) I just quickly tried it ( rope test) on my '83, worked fine FYI.

Sure that will most likely work, sooner or later, but how is it simpler than having the hose go up from the bleeder? There are a lot of ways to accomplish a task but KISS rules.

[Great White]

Actually, brake feel and ease of bleeding is a a good reason to de-link the brakes. Its all part and parcel of the same issues. De-linking removes several feet of tortuously routed lines and several couplings which are always a place to trap air in the system.

 

The more joints, the more chance for entrapped air. The more line there is the more fluid had to be pumped out to drag out the air. Easier to reach the master and bleed screws simultaneously is just a bonus. Running two lines and a double banjo bolt on the front master (how I did it as well) even eliminates the need for a "splitter" and yet another place to entrap air. I have fought with splitters trapping air my entire life and despise them, they go in the trash first chance I get. Double front master lines forever!

 

But if you want to do KISS, just get your wife to work the pedal for you as you bleed the system. That's about as simple as it gets. Might end up with a different style of KISS at the end....

 

 

And you get to spend some time together doing something productive.

 

 

Or get your kids to help. Same benefits plus kids get to think they've "helped dad work on the motorcycle" while gaining some knowledge/skills.

Edited February 27, 2016 by Great White