dan0688 Posted February 22, 2016 #1 Posted February 22, 2016 I just purchased a 1986 venture royale with 38k miles on it here in upstate NY its still pretty cold and snow on the ground so i have not ridden it yet other then on and off a trailer, its in beautiful shape i purchased it with the intent of doing alot of long distance riding this summer. iv been riding for several years now but never any touring (most miles have been put on a 07 suzuki boulevard M50) I currently have the bike up on my lift and am going through everything in prep to put alot of miles on it this summer, Just wondering if there are any area's I should be paying attention too. it has a set of elite 2's on it that have plenty of tread on them, but they are more then 6 years old, so i have a set of shinko 230's coming for it which i will run this season so far im really excited about this bike i originally set out to buy a goldwing and once i found the venture it was exactly what i was looking for thanks Dan
etcswjoe Posted February 22, 2016 #2 Posted February 22, 2016 Welcome to the mad house , I think you will really enjoy the first gen 38K is nothing for them, check all the rubber and change all the fluids one of the first gen gurus can give you some more specific tips. We have several get together during the year check out the rides and rallies section and come meet up with some fellow Venture owners. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?17-Rides-and-Rallies
camos Posted February 22, 2016 #3 Posted February 22, 2016 Clean all electrical plug connections with contact cleaner and reassemble with a "tiny" amount of dielectric grease. There are lots of them scattered everywhere. One of the most important ones is the three white wire connector on the left side coming from the stator and regulator. If that one gets corroded it will affect charging the battery which shortens its life and corrosion there will also cause heat which can burn the wires and destroy both the regulator and stator. Most of the connectors can be found behind the headlight. The hardest connectors to get to are the TCI (need to pull air box) and a ground on the left side that can only be accessed by removing the left fairing. The last one mentioned is less likely to be a problem because it is well protected so just make a note to yourself to get to it when you can. Another important one is the large ground wire coming off the negative post of the battery that goes to the starter. Spray some contact cleaner into the ignition switch and the kill switch as preventative maintenance. The kill switch can be opened and cleaned if there is a problem but otherwise an occasional squirt should help to keep it good.
MiCarl Posted February 22, 2016 #4 Posted February 22, 2016 It will take lots of time but probably the best thing you could do is perform every procedure in the maintenance section of the service manual. As you're working look carefully for anything worn or cracked. There is a downloadable manual in the tech section here but I think you'd be well served to acquire a paper manual. It's hard to beat being able to quickly flip around in the book. Finding someone to work on it will be a challenge, if you break down away from home you'll be in a tight spot. Do the legwork now so you aren't stranded somewhere.
garyS-NJ Posted February 22, 2016 #5 Posted February 22, 2016 My bet is if that bike runs now it will just run and run and run. On top of the other suggestions I'd say think about splitting the brakes and keep your eyes open for a bigger front master. After I split my brakes, my rear master went but I had a parts bike dare to swap in.. for a long ride, might be good insurance to rebuild the masters and at least clear out the calipers. And grease the speedo cable. And get a 4 brush starter.. and if it hasn't been ridden regularly, you may well have some crud in the carbs, but you will know it running it. Seafoam in the fuel might help clean minor deposits. Get new spark plugs and check the wires. And if your stock tci is still working, replace the diodes (& cross your fingers, I bought the ignetek). Flush the tank and change the fuel filter too.
dan0688 Posted February 23, 2016 Author #6 Posted February 23, 2016 have been thinking about puting r1/r6 calipers on the front.... does anyone have any experience with this on a 86? anything I need to look for? what year calipers work? does anyone make a stainless steel line kit thats a direct swap?
Jayceesfolly Posted February 23, 2016 #7 Posted February 23, 2016 Welcome to the best Forum on the Internet. I live in Rochester and have an 89 VR and would be happy to help or answer any questions. Pay the $12 to become a member. It is the best money you will ever spend on this beautiful bike. It is perfect for long distance travel. My phone number is in my Profile. Call if you have any questions. One of the members here sells a stainless line kit with all necessary parts. It makes a great difference in the braking. There is also a delinking kit available for the brakes. See member "Skydoc_17" for parts. IIRC the R1/R6 are a direct swap, but I'm not sure. Some of the other members know more than I. Also do a search for "R1/R6 calipers" on this forum. Jim
bongobobny Posted February 25, 2016 #8 Posted February 25, 2016 Yah! Now that Jim has introduced himself welcome aboard!! We are pretty active in the western new York area and am looking forward to riding with you this summer! Hope you have a passport so you can attend some of the Ontario events! The big one for our area is the WNY Northeast Regional Rally at the end of August at Pioneer Motorsports, Chaffee NY, hope you can make it!!!
FEW Posted February 25, 2016 #9 Posted February 25, 2016 Good for you Dan, welcome. I bought an 86 as well four years ago. Some of the electronics are fussy, but it never lets me down. Plan on riding from WV to ND this summer for a reunion. Might try and get to Freebirds maintenance day on June 11.
dan0688 Posted February 28, 2016 Author #10 Posted February 28, 2016 Installed r6 calipers and stainless lines on the front today... Plugged the front line at the rear master and gutted the proportioning valve... Also installed new tires today and drained the coolant as I need to fix the leak at the drain
Jayceesfolly Posted February 28, 2016 #11 Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) If you are talking about the "drain" on the bottom of the radiator, that is not a drain but a bypass valve. It is a black plastic knob. The drain plug is on the bottom of the water pump which is located on the right side of the engine. I have an extra o-ring repair kit for the bypass valve if you want it. PM me for my address. Jim Edited February 28, 2016 by Jayceesfolly
dan0688 Posted February 28, 2016 Author #12 Posted February 28, 2016 I already have a repair kit Thanks for the offer though
dan0688 Posted February 28, 2016 Author #13 Posted February 28, 2016 So I have replaced the o-ring and screw for the drain ... The previous owner had covered everything in rtv I cleaned all that off once I put it back together it now leaks worse then before. Any recommendations ?
dan0688 Posted February 28, 2016 Author #14 Posted February 28, 2016 Pulled it out and reinstalled and it seems to be ok now
Jayceesfolly Posted February 29, 2016 #15 Posted February 29, 2016 (edited) My o-ring on my bike always leaks in the Spring when I first start up the engine. After two heating and cooling cycles, it always sets up and then never leaks again. It has been doing this for three years now. Only three or four small drips. BTW, the knob should be turned as shown in the above photo. The word "off" should be in the 2 o'clock position for normal running and "on" in that position is to bypass the thermostat and for draining the system of coolant. I'm not sure if you are aware of this, hence this note. Jim Edited February 29, 2016 by Jayceesfolly
Vj venture Posted February 29, 2016 #16 Posted February 29, 2016 Congratulations, my first bike was a 86 1300....awesome ride, hey guys, I'm new here and was wondering where I post tech questions
Vj venture Posted February 29, 2016 #17 Posted February 29, 2016 But, hell, I guess this is as good a place as any.....I just scored on a barn find, pictures are on my profile, 83 yamaha venture royale 6600 miles, Mint.....just got some hd road kings and wanted to know what size I need to rejet the carbs, don't like the jetsons sound.sorry.
Vj venture Posted February 29, 2016 #18 Posted February 29, 2016 Also, just replaced the oem filter, after I change exhaust, should I keep it? Or go KnN?
NewbeeMC9 Posted March 1, 2016 #19 Posted March 1, 2016 But, hell, I guess this is as good a place as any.....I just scored on a barn find, pictures are on my profile, 83 yamaha venture royale 6600 miles, Mint.....just got some hd road kings and wanted to know what size I need to rejet the carbs, don't like the jetsons sound.sorry. Welcome Vj venture, You may want to start a new thread of your own, and the First Generation tech forum is good, and the $12.00 is worth all the good info. Looks like a good find, congrats.
Freebird Posted March 3, 2016 #20 Posted March 3, 2016 I agree that it is always better to start a new thread with your question but my quick answer is that you will likely find rejecting not necessary.
camos Posted March 4, 2016 #21 Posted March 4, 2016 I agree that it is always better to start a new thread with your question but my quick answer is that you will likely find rejecting not necessary.Noooooo!! Don't "reject". Hee, hee.
Freebird Posted March 4, 2016 #22 Posted March 4, 2016 LOL...gotta love spell check. It always knows what you mean huh?
LukeMacPU Posted March 4, 2016 #23 Posted March 4, 2016 If you are talking about the "drain" on the bottom of the radiator, that is not a drain but a bypass valve. It is a black plastic knob. The drain plug is on the bottom of the water pump which is located on the right side of the engine. I have an extra o-ring repair kit for the bypass valve if you want it. PM me for my address. Jim Hypothetically, if the owner of a 1983 Venture Royale were to be a bit dim and ride around with the bypass valve turned to the wrong position... hypothetically... Would this work like driving and old car/truck with a bad thermostat and just take forever to warm up during cold weather because it circulates water the whole time? No real harm done, just running like the engine is cold all the time or would it be something more serious? Again, this is purely hypothetical. Ok, I know a guy that may have done something similar to my... I mean his bike for most of the winter.
Prairiehammer Posted March 4, 2016 #24 Posted March 4, 2016 Hypothetically, yes, you didn't hurt anything, oops...um, hypothetically that other guy didn't hurt anything. Just slow to warm and paradoxically it may tend to run too hot.
LukeMacPU Posted March 5, 2016 #25 Posted March 5, 2016 Hypothetically good to know! I'll be sure to let him know no harm was done. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
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