Final Drive weeping!

[kf_sk_mccall]

Is it possible to replace the oil seal shown in this picture without disassembling the final drive?

 

 

Ken

[frankd]

It looks like you could. The hardest part will be removing the old seal. You probably will have to puncture the seal carefully (so that you don't scratch the mating surfaces) and then carefully pry the old seal out. Installing the new seal should be easy. How bad is it seeping?

[RedRider]

Wow, my final drive has never been that clean. If mine was weeping, not sure I would even notice.

 

RR

Edited February 13, 2016 by RedRider

[BlueSky]

Time for a Vmax final drive?

[kf_sk_mccall]

The left side of the rim is oily and the tire has oil streaks on it (new tire ordered). I grabbed the picture from another thread and I'm guessing that this is the seal that is starting to fail (have not disassembled yet). Looking at the service manual, I'm not sure if I want to open up the final drive to replace the seal behind the needle bearing (looks like Pandora's box). The bike is a 1990 with 177,745 miles on the odometer. What model years and bikes should I be looking for if I swap the final drive out?

 

Ken

[Venturous Randy]

I have found that the easiest way to remove this type seal is to take a razor blade, box cutter or very sharp knife and cut the rubber between the outer edge and inner edge. This removes much of the strength of the seal and you can remove it in two pieces much easier. Just don't score either of the sealing surfaces.

Randy

[Great White]

I would say yes, you an replace it in place.

 

Use the methods the guys have listed above.

 

I've done it the same way in many similar style automotive seals (axles, cranks, etc).

 

But you're not going to have fun doing it.....major PITA.....

Edited February 13, 2016 by Great White

[cowpuc]

Never had one apart but thinking that looks like a typical seal that is rubber formed over a metal body casing.. Thinking I would carefully drill a pilot hole thru the outer casing of the seal to run a sheet metal screw into and then pry outwardly on the screw,, even do this in a few spots if necessary. You can just drill thru the outer edge of the casing, that way no chance of damaging the inner case seal mating surfaces - where it meets up with the shoulder it sets on. Use a drill bit the same size as the shank of the sheet metal screw your gonna tap into the hole - the shank being the OD of the area at the bottom of the threads on the screw,, dont have to try an measure it with calipers,, just hold the screw up the light and eyeball a drill bit next to it - doesnt have to be exact.. Put a couple screws in it, place something under the pry bar or screw driver so you have something to pry against.. Have done a number of seals like this and usually works pretty good.. If we were talking bearing races it would be a totally different story

Speaking of bearing surfaces, might wanna shake that pig down really well cause bearing issues are a known cause for seal issues.. Hope this aint the case here but thought I better mention it..

All the best

Puc

[KIC]

did you ever get your final drive to stop crying ?

[kf_sk_mccall]

Finally took it apart this past weekend.

 

Outer seal is leaking

Output splines are heavily worn

Gear lash feels sloppy

 

Anyone have a spare final drive that will fit a 1990 that they are willing to sell?

 

Ken

[BlueSky]

ebay usually has plenty of them

[Marcarl]

If you are referring to the seal on the pumpkin, then just carefully stick a screwdriver between the seal and the clutch to pry it off,,,, goes rather easy. Clean it and install a new one.

I found that the most cause of weeping is caused by too much grease. We like to make sure that it is properly greased, and put a little extra on for good measure. That's OK I guess, but any extra gets spun off and ends up on the outside, seal or no seal. In my opinion the seal is there to keep the dirt and moisture at bay, not to keep the grease in.

You need to use the right grease, I use Lucas Extra Heavy Duty wheel bearing grease. Use only as much as is need to wet the surfaces. It stays there where it belongs. Some other guys use Honda Moly, and that works as well. When you take it apart later, you'll find any extra has spun off, but the splines will be wet, and that is all that is required.

The clutch hub, as it is called, should be cleaned and lubed every time you change or remove the tire,, good practice.

The clutch hub, the part on the wheel, is of softer material than it's mate on the pumpkin, and is easily replaced. Actually, it's good practice to remove it for service at wheel removal time as well. It's just a matter of prying it off of the wheel once you have the ciriclip removed. The pins going into the wheel can be a bit of a chore if this hasn't been done before, but go slow and they will come out with the hub. Then clean and lube the pins, put them back and install the ciriclip. Next time it'll go much easier.

If you really need a new hub, I have one, brand new in the box, but maybe better for you to grab one from a dealer. Cost will be about $90us from the dealer.

http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/500430a7f8700209bc78ac18/rear-wheel