Trailering my Venture-tie down points

[Kiwiroyale]

G'day and Merry Xmas from NZ

 

I want to trailer my bike up to Central Otago lakes where we will be holidaying to see the new year in, the roads are fantastic up there with beautiful scenery, it will be much safer to take my darling Tanz on her maiden ride as passenger on our now up and running '83.

 

As I have mentioned previously I have only ever ridden a total of 300 odd kms on the road (all on this bike) so I am very "green" at this and have lots to learn (ridden/raced dirt bikes for 40+ yrs).

 

Anyway (once again) I digress!!

 

I need to know the "tie down" (assume you guys call them this) attachment points for the bike, my trailer is a purpose built motorcycle trailer with three rails, I will obviously have her in the middle rail, my dirt bikes weigh no more then 110 kilos, but I know this girl is over three times that weight, and I just cannot see how I can attach tie downs to the handlebars only (as I do with the dirt bikes), the centre of gravity is low I know, but the weight will surely be exponential when I take corners at 100kph, I am worried that she will tip.

 

Help please

 

Steve

[utadventure]

When I've trailered my '86, I put straps on each fork - just above the fork brace. This secures the front end without worrying about the straps coming lose because of the compressing on the forks and won't spread the forks because of the brace. These straps are anchored forward of the bike and keep it upright in the wheel chock and from moving backwards.

 

I then attach two additional straps to the passenger hand holds as added support and to keep the back end from moving side to side. I anchor these back of the bike to reduce forward motion.

 

If the trailer is open....a strap around the false tank cover and the side panels will help not to lose them (or you can remove them and put them in your vehicle.

 

Good luck!

 

Dave

[Kiwiroyale]

Great!!!! thanks Dave

[10spd]

Thanks! I am planning to go to bike week in March & was thinking the same thing where to put the straps.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Condor]

Here's the way I tie the '07RSV. It should work on a 1stGen just as well.

 

The front wheel chock works great and it's cheep here in the US. It's made in China so

maybe you can get a break down under as well....

[Kiwiroyale]

Here's the way I tie the '07RSV. It should work on a 1stGen just as well.

 

The front wheel chock works great and it's cheep here in the US. It's made in China so

maybe you can get a break down under as well....

 

Thanks Condor, my trailer has full length "rails" with a front end " chock" plus numerous attach points, so between you and Dave I am now sorted.

 

Steve

[MiCarl]

I like to attach higher up than the others are describing. The lower you go the less mechanical advantage the straps have on the motorcycle. My preferred place is on the bars near where they attach to the top bridge, but the fairing on the Venture prevents doing that.

 

On a 1st gen Venture I put a tie down extension around each fork tube above the lower tree, then I hook to that. I pull the straps down enough I don't have to worry about the suspension letting them go slack. Since the front is firmly anchored side to side I don't worry about being high on the rear. On my 89 I put tie down extensions around the bag guards and attach to those. I do not know if the guards on the 83 are strong enough. Another good place is around the passenger foot pegs.

[cowpuc]

Kiwi, I am with MiCarl on the mechanical advantage of strapping high on the scoots - dirtbikes or our Ventures. We have a REAL advantage on our 1st Gens in the design of the bars - they are VERY worthy for tieing to without having to worry about them rolling forward in their clamps. Because of this, I like to take soft ties (you probably know what those are, they are fairly short straps with hoops sewn into both ends?), make a wrap around the grips and then run one hoop inside of the other hoop and tighten the wrap as close to the perches as possible, tie this down with regular tie downs to the forward connectors on the fprward outside rail tie spots. Pull the straps down so you have an inch and 1/2 or so of travel left in your front forks. Take ratchet straps and hook them into the eyes of the push button tie downs you used to pull the straps down with - ratchet them down so they just barely relieve a little tension on the first set of straps. Remove the saddlebags from your scoot and store them in your rig. Put another set of straps hooked onto the rider grab bars and attach to the rear corners on the outside rails and pull down on the rear mono - not necessary to double strap these. I also like to take another strap and go thru the front wheel and around the wheel chock or, if your on rails, around the front rail to secure the wheel to the trailer - then you can leave the scoot in neutral and not worry about the weight of the bike working against the tranny if it rocks a little.

Also, dont forget to grease the bearings in your trailer, take a spare and make sure your trailer tire air pressures are at max.

Have a GREAT trip and dont forget our 's to go with the ride story you gonna come back and tell us about:fingers-crossed-emo!

Puc

[Kiwiroyale]

Kiwi, I am with MiCarl on the mechanical advantage of strapping high on the scoots - dirtbikes or our Ventures. We have a REAL advantage on our 1st Gens in the design of the bars - they are VERY worthy for tieing to without having to worry about them rolling forward in their clamps. Because of this, I like to take soft ties (you probably know what those are, they are fairly short straps with hoops sewn into both ends?), make a wrap around the grips and then run one hoop inside of the other hoop and tighten the wrap as close to the perches as possible, tie this down with regular tie downs to the forward connectors on the fprward outside rail tie spots. Pull the straps down so you have an inch and 1/2 or so of travel left in your front forks. Take ratchet straps and hook them into the eyes of the push button tie downs you used to pull the straps down with - ratchet them down so they just barely relieve a little tension on the first set of straps. Remove the saddlebags from your scoot and store them in your rig. Put another set of straps hooked onto the rider grab bars and attach to the rear corners on the outside rails and pull down on the rear mono - not necessary to double strap these. I also like to take another strap and go thru the front wheel and around the wheel chock or, if your on rails, around the front rail to secure the wheel to the trailer - then you can leave the scoot in neutral and not worry about the weight of the bike working against the tranny if it rocks a little.

Also, dont forget to grease the bearings in your trailer, take a spare and make sure your trailer tire air pressures are at max.

Have a GREAT trip and dont forget our 's to go with the ride story you gonna come back and tell us about:fingers-crossed-emo!

Puc

 

Ah Puc you are my hero!! It is because of you I am able to even ride my beauty these holidays!!! I have been on around 100kms of easy rides around my province, getting used to this fantastic machine, Puc I love it!!! The freedom is mind blowing!!!!

 

I actually had a trial run with Daves suggestion this afternoon, it worked great, albeit without actually taking the rig for a drive, however I am so paranoid with the relative "height" of the tie downs, I believe the lower they (tie downs/straps) are the "physics" of it all will actually negate the holding power and she will tip, having said that I totally believe that Dave and Condors methods work well, but I will have a higher "strap" in place-just to be sure!!!!

 

Oh and Puc I have so many photos to share of my "restoration" etc, (and the rather ingenious method of raising the suspension...) but I cannot for the life of me work out how to " attach" the photos to this site, yes I have read the threads on "how to" but alas it did not work!

 

Anyway that is another story.

 

Kind Regards from "Kiwi"

[cowpuc]

OUTSTANDING KIWI - glad it all worked out and your getting some miles of smiles out of that sweetheart!!:dancefool: I know EXACTLY what you mean about these AMAZING bikes and the mind blowing freedom brother - just fantabulous aint it!!:thumbsup: Wish I was there with ya Kiwi,, toss a leg, twist a throttle, ride out the day, drop a tent, eat a Hot Dog, get up with sun up and start all over again :dancefool::dancefool:YEEEEEEHAWWWWWW

 

Lets see if I can help you out with the picture loading thing here now.. My bet is your issue is with the pics being to big,, have seen it over and over again. Might try resizing a pic just for a test.. I use MS "Paint" to do so - its really easy and have never had a problem loading pics (and I have loaded my fair share of em ) after getting them under the size limit for the site. Here is link explaining that http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109624-Just-discovered-something-picture-resizing-made-easy/page2&highlight=paint+resizing

 

another one that if you scroll down you will find some video's that explain how easy it is to use.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?114318-What-did-you-get-for-Christmas/page4&highlight=paint+resizing

 

and then another by Freebird,, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92599-Resizing-Pictures

 

and finally (actually should have started with this ) a step by step of how to by Freebird http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92609-How-to-add-a-picture-to-a-post

 

If you still cant quite get it, just let me know and between the two of us we WILL get those pics posted - even if ya have to e-mail to me and have me post em for ya

's are our friends

[KSRIDER10]

I learned this technique long ago and it has never failed me yet. Put the front wheel against an immovable point on your trailer (wheel chock, wall, etc.), Attach RATCHETING straps to either side of the handlebars and then to mounting points to the side, but also forward of the handle bars. compress the suspension completely using the ratchet straps. With the suspension completely compressed and the wheel locked in place, the bike is totally secure because the handlebars have to move in order for the bike to fall over. Sounds too simple to be true, I know, but it works!

[Venturous Randy]

Up under the fairing, there is a short crossbar on the frame that I use with ratcheting straps.

I will pull the bike up against the front of the trailer and put it on the side stand. I will then hook the strap on the side stand side of the bike to an attachment point on the front corner of the trailer and snug it. I will then go to the other side and hook the strap and ratchet it down to the point that the bike will pull the up vertical.

I will then connect to the top of the rear crash bars and to the trailer to the point they are pulling the bike toward the front of the bike. The last thing I do, since I don't have a wheel chock, is to wrap the ends of the ratchet strap around the front wheel where it meets the trailer frame to make sure it does not let the wheel move side to side.

The thing I like about this is I am connecting higher than the forks at a solid point. Even though it is up under the fairing, the strap does clear the fairing. It also makes it safer for me when I am undoing the straps to reverse the order and not have the bike want to be pulled over. Anyway, this has worked for me for 20 years with this bike.

Randy

[Condor]

Just thought I'd add a few remarks since my first post was kinda short. I have trailered 1st and 2ndGens 1000's of miles using a ton of rachet straps with all sorts of configurations, on the side stand and upright. I even used a Canyon Dancer for a while off the handle bars which I don't recommend.. I do recommend attachments on any unsprung part of the bike. The bike has suspension...let it work. Compressing the springs doesn't help at all. Some rigging took me 15 to 20 minutes to rig, with a lot of apprehension about it falling over before getting it secure. The pics I posted is the absolute best way to tow a bike on a trailer. If you don't own a trailer get the chock anyway. It will work holding a 2ndGen upright while working on it in the garage. It doesn't have to be screwed down permanently in the trailer. The whole set up is a ride on, get off. 2 rachets with long straps to secure.. found these at Sam's Club.. 4 for 20 bucks... Undo the straps and back off. Not even break a sweat.. One thing I might add is when backing off do it in first gear with the lever pulled in. What happens is when backing off down the ramp in neutral, and the motor off, is the front tire will loose traction as the weight transfers to the rear, and will skid down the ramp gate. Makes things rather exciting. With it in gear just feather the clutch if it starts to skid. The rear tire has plenty of traction. That's my 2 ¢... Sorry for the long post.

[utadventure]

Jack-

 

I need to pick up wheel chocks for a new trailer. What is the make and where did you buy yours?

 

Dave

[vzuden]

I use the cheap ones from Harbor Freight. They work great. $50 or less as I recall

[Condor]

Jack-

 

I need to pick up wheel chocks for a new trailer. What is the make and where did you buy yours?

 

Dave

 

Yep @vzuden is right. Harbor Freight Dave. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=chock I think they're the best bang for the buck on the market....

[Mcolabella]

Well this what I was just thinking about, I went and pick my new to me 89, in my enclosed trailer and I have a harbor freight tire chock in the front, where to tie it in the rear of the bike, and placement of tie downs, angles. no real room in the of the trailer to die down

[Condor]

Well this what I was just thinking about, I went and pick my new to me 89, in my enclosed trailer and I have a harbor freight tire chock in the front, where to tie it in the rear of the bike, and placement of tie downs, angles. no real room in the of the trailer to die down

 

You might have to put some tie downs in the floor or mount t-track on the side walls. I have two of my enclosed trailers rigged with t-track, and one has both. It just depends on the size of your trailer?? Floor tie downs are the cheapest way to go...

[jasonm.]

I do the exact same as MiCarl on bags guards but lower.The passenger handholds bend more easily that you would think. They are made to hold a person, not the 800# bike

[syscrusher]

I've always used the ratchet straps to compress any suspension on the bike. Two reasons here, it lowers the center of gravity for better stability with less possible energy in the direction of toppling the bike. The other reason is that the bike moves completely as one with the trailer and introduces no suspension oscillations that could buck the trailer or worse. If you're trailering a project bike that has no suspension damping the bike could be bouncing all over on weak springs when rough road conditions are encountered. It would be like hauling swinging beef in a semi.

[Condor]

I've always used the ratchet straps to compress any suspension on the bike. Two reasons here, it lowers the center of gravity for better stability with less possible energy in the direction of toppling the bike. The other reason is that the bike moves completely as one with the trailer and introduces no suspension oscillations that could buck the trailer or worse. If you're trailering a project bike that has no suspension damping the bike could be bouncing all over on weak springs when rough road conditions are encountered. It would be like hauling swinging beef in a semi.

 

Interesting concept, but I'm not too sure it's sound. The lowering of the bikes center of gravity 3" to 4" isn't going to amount to much when sitting on a trailer for vertical stability, and comparing any perceived trailer oscillation to swinging sides of beef in a semi is like apples to oranges, or vertical vs. horizontal movement. Coupling a trailer's undampened rebound to a dampened rebound of the bike also doesn't make sense?? Although most small trailers don't run shocks, the bikes suspension will dampen any rebound oscillation that could possibly occur.. Even with a 'project' bike, unless it's also undampened then it could possibly happen in theory.. One more thing to mention is try to avoid 3' deep pot holes.... :-) I've trailered a bike many thousands of miles, even over some OMG rough back roads, and never had a lick of a problem with a bike not staying put.

[syscrusher]

You've got to play the percentages. If the center of gravity is 20" from the ground and you can get it 4" closer by compressing the suspension that's 20% less energy tugging against the tie-downs and working against the tire's traction. If I could guarantee you a 20% return on your investment do you think it would be worthwhile?

 

BTW, My trailer has leaf springs.

[Condor]

You've got to play the percentages. If the center of gravity is 20" from the ground and you can get it 4" closer by compressing the suspension that's 20% less energy tugging against the tie-downs and working against the tire's traction. If I could guarantee you a 20% return on your investment do you think it would be worthwhile?

 

BTW, My trailer has leaf springs.

 

Sure if you're dealing with money, but when dealing with applied lateral force, not much. BTW most of the older 10' trailers are all leaf springs unless it's a home made McGuiver. Lately they've been running tortion bar axles. However, you can run any set up you want for peace of mind. I just think it's over kill and of little value.....

[syscrusher]

Mine is the McGuiver version. Bought it for $85 years ago. Of course when I made plans to trailer a 900lb bike for 1200 miles it needed rebuilding. I always overbuild most things so it took a week or so of my spare time and a couple hundred in lumber and hardware. After keeping it outside for many years I would probably want to at least put another 3/4" sheet of plywood down for the floor. It used to be super lightweight and I could roll it up my driveway easily. Now I've learned to be more accurate with my backing up because trying to push it physically would be a good way to injure myself. I used it to bring my 1993 home in 2013 but I bought 6 bags of mortar mix to counterweight the rear. When transporting a motorcycle the engine weight is ahead of the trailer axle and on the tongue so that's a problem but it's been very good for me. I know, TMI, but you seemed to be slightly interested and I'm somewhat snowed in and bored.

[Condor]

LOL... It's raining here, and I'm bored....