LED turn signals - load equalizer or LED flasher ?

[Bert2006]

I am looking at replacing all of my signal lights to LED but dont like that I have to install load equalizers to maintain flash rate. Seems to defeat the purpose of going LED to reduce load on electrical system. Is there a replacement flasher control that I can use instead of equalizers? If yes, would I maintain the 4way flashing capability? Thanks in advance for your advice on this one!

[Flyinfool]

The load equalizers are easy to install and really do put a load on the electrical system.

you only turn the signals on for a few seconds at a time only while turning or changing lanes.

When the signals are on they are only actually lit 50% of the time. So the power draw is insignificant in the overall scheme of things. The real power savings of LED comes from replacing all of the lights that are on all the time.

 

With all of that said, I am sure that you could get an electronic flasher that will work with both signals and hazard flashers and allow you to not use load resisters. I do not know enough about the specifics of 2nd gen wiring to recommend one.

[Bert2006]

Looking at Kuryakyn load equalizers and they have 2 models.

 

1. Kuryakyn Load Equalizer - 4807 ($22.00 cnd)

(https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/kuryakyn-load-equalizer-4807.html)

 

 

• For use with mechanical relay-type flasher units
  
• 4-amp load equalizer
  
• Works great when replacing OEM turn signals with low-draw LED or small incandescent turn signals
  

 

 

2. Kuryakyn 2 Amp Load Equalizer - 4810 ($25.26 cnd)

(https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/kuryakyn-2-amp-load-equalizer-4810.html)

 

Universal Load Equalizer for use when stock turn signals are replaced with L.E.D. or other low-draw lights. One required for each pair of lights.

 

I know I need 2 of them (one for front and one for rear) but do I get the 2 amp or 4 amp units?

 

Thanks

[Guest Jamsie]

have you considered , changing to a LED flasher relay ?. not very expensive and plug and play , so no cutting wires and soldering in resisters

[Bert2006]

have you considered , changing to a LED flasher relay ?. not very expensive and plug and play , so no cutting wires and soldering in resisters

 

That is what I would prefer to do but I have not found any yet that would fit the RSV and allow to retain the the self-cancelling function as well as the 4 way flashers:bang head: .

[Guest Jamsie]

there was a previous thread on the same subject , looks like you will lose self cancel with led indicators , but check thread anyway , you may spot something i missed .

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?4097-Load-Equalizer-for-Front-Turn-Signals

[Flyinfool]

Whether you need the 2A or the 4A depends on the amp draw of the LEDs that you are going to use.

On my 1st gen I used what would be close to the 4A. What I used was http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UAL50-3R3F8/696-1512-ND/3886548 at $3.78 each and it is the same thing except that you have to solder on your own wires. the shrink wrap that the Kuryakyn ones have is actually bad for them. Just the electrical connections should be shrink wrapped not the whole thing. the resistor has fins on it for cooling covering the whole thing with shrink tubing insulates the fins from getting rid of the heat. The resistors are not polarized so it does not matter which lead goes where. one lead goes to ground, the other lead goes to the wire that leads to the signal filament of the bulb. You do not need one for front and one for rear, you do need one for left and one for right.

 

I do not know if Digi-Key ships to Canada, but if not, there must be some source of electronic parts in Canada. The resistor that you need is 3.3Ω, 50W, None of the other specs of the resistor matter in this application. Available from most electronic suppliers.

[Flyinfool]

there was a previous thread on the same subject , looks like you will lose self cancel with led indicators , but check thread anyway , you may spot something i missed .

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?4097-Load-Equalizer-for-Front-Turn-Signals

 

IF the LEDs and load resistor are installed correctly all functions of the bike will remain as they were before the conversion. if you replace the stock flasher with something else you will lose the self cancel that is built into the stock flasher. To some that is important to others it is not.

 

There are some of the cheap LED replacement bulbs out there that are not compatible with the flasher circuit of a 1st gen. I do not know if the 2nd gens have the same grounding issue in the flasher circuits. There is also a major difference in brightness between brands and styles of replacement LEDs.

 

Of course it must always be said, when putting in LEDs you must ALWAYS match the LED color to the lens color. Putting a white LED behind a red or amber lens is guaranteed disappointment with the brightness.

[XV1100SE]

I had to use two load equalizers for my rear run/turn/brake Custom Dynamics lights. With only one my lights would flash fast.

[M61A1MECH]

So here is what a fellow over on the Stratoliner forum did.

He bought one of my break out harnesses and connected his load resistors from the turn signal break outs and then took the other side too the ground wire.

Worked out well and no wire cutting or splicing on the bike's harness and you have tag wires for extra brake lights or tail lights.

here is link for a Venture set up.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=4&title=aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=18

[Flyinfool]

Whether you need 2 or 4 resistors (load equalizers), depends on what resistor values you use. Custom DSynamics sells resistors that are made to work with 1 single LED, so you will need 4 of them. The CD resistors are 6 ohm 25W each. The resistors that I recommended will need just 1 resistor per side of the bike and will give proper load for 2 LED bulbs. The ones I used are 3.3 ohm 50W each. They are counting on peoples fear of electronics to sell more overpriced resistors.

 

Using the breakout connector is a great Idea.

[Bert2006]

Thanks for the input guy's. One piece of information that I am still trying to clarify is whether the stock flasher unit on the 2006 RSV is a mechanical one. I went on the Kuryakyn website and searched for load equalizers that were compatible for the RSV and the 2 that I had showed in a post below came up.

 

Here are all of the parts that I think I need to do the job.

 

LED light clusters:

 

FRONT: https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/show-chrome-big-bike-parts-front-led-amber-turn-signal-kit-yamaha-crusiers-05-newer-10-1606.html

BACK: https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/show-chrome-big-bike-parts-rear-led-amber-turn-signal-kit-yamaha-crusiers-05-newer-10-1604.html

 

Load Equalizers:

 

Show Chrome quad unit (one unit for all 4 lights): https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/show-chrome-big-bike-parts-quad-load-equalizer-13-314.html

Here are the instructions for wiring it in: https://m.canadasmotorcycle.ca/media/pdf/big-bike-parts/13-314.pdf

 

or

 

Kuryakyn units (2 - 1 front and 1 back or one for each side - not sure I understand that one yet as all the websites have been saying front / back but one of you is suggesting side/side and I can see the logic in that also) https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/kuryakyn-load-equalizer-4807.html

Instructions again: https://m.canadasmotorcycle.ca/media/pdf/kuryakyn/4807-23HD-0413.pdf

 

Here is the part that also stumps me: Show Chrome recommends to also use one of these in front and back to prevent cross feeds (What does cross feeds mean?) (Its just a basic wire splitter that I could make myself, but I cannot figure out what it adds to the equation: https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/show-chrome-big-bike-parts-single-indicator-led-splitter-13-308.html

Here are the instructions for it:https://m.canadasmotorcycle.ca/media/pdf/big-bike-parts/13-308.pdf

 

Thanks again for taking the time to look at this and provide advice....it is very much appreciated

[ToyOdie]

When I decided to change to LED turn signals on my 96 RSTC, I went with the Custom Dynamics LED signals and Kuryaken run/stop/turn (PN 4710 Universal Run-Turn-Brake Controller). I also changed the rear lenses to red and installed the Custom Dynamics LED brake light. Installing the unit was simple however, I couldn't get the front to work properly. When you turned either one on, they would both go out. I ordered the resister for a single indicator speedo, the electronic signal relay and a second load equalizer for the front. After installing and trying several configurations, including following the instructions, I still could not get the front signals to work correctly. I gave up on the front and went back to standard bulbs.

 

When I picked up a 97 RSTC I swapped all the LED's over to it. I did find the turn signal relay was different (5-wire on the 97 vs. 3-wire on the 96) The 5-wire included auto-cancel which the 96 did not have. I manufactured a 3-wire adapter to use the electronic flasher relay and decided to try the front again. Low and behold they worked perfectly. The wiring on the 97 must be a little different. I did lose the auto-cancel function but I can live with that.

 

All that said I believe Kuryaken and Custom Dynamics both have a complete setup for your 06 RSV. You should be able to install the kit in an hour or two.

[Bert2006]

Think I found some of my answers on the Custom Dynamic website.

 

1. Typical load equalizer installation (this supports one for front and one for back as opposed to left /right): http://www.customdynamics.com/load_equalizer_install.htm

http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/Typical-Load-Equalizer-Inst.jpg

 

2. Cross feed issue seems to be linked to having one or two indicator lights for the signal on the dash. http://www.customdynamics.com/instructions/MDK%20Tech%20sheet.pdf

 

On the RSV there are separate left and right indicators so do not need to worry about that part. Simply install led lights, 2 equalizers ( 1 front and 1 back) and I should be ok. I think.............

[Flyinfool]

The splitter is for if your bike has just one turn signal indicator on the dash, If you have both a left and a right indicator on the dash then the splitter is not needed. If you are using the resistors I do not know if the splitter would be needed or not. The splitter is just 2 $0.50 diodes and 3 pieces of wire.

 

The Kuryakyn I would not even use based on this warning in the installation sheet.

CAUTION

Load equalizers generate heat when

in use. Avoid using the turn signals

for an extended period of time,

otherwise the load equalizer will

overheat. Never operate the

four-way flashers unless you first

remove the load equalizer.

Overheating will damage the load

equalizer, causing loss of turn

signal operation and may create a

fire hazard!

Really? So if you have a roadside emergency and need your 4 way flashers, they expect you to rewire the bike on the side of the road, and then rewire it again when you are ready to leave? And don not get caught at a long red light or have a long wait for cross traffic to clear while at a stop sign? Really?

 

So your options for load equalizers are;

1. Big Bike Parts quad equalizer at $54.80. 5 Wire connections required.

2. Kuryakyn load equalizer x 2 at $22 each = $44.00. 6 Wire connections required. This one scares me.

3. Resistors that I specified at $3.78 each = $7.56. 4 Wire connections required.

 

With the resistors you do not need splitter diodes, they will not overheat and catch fire even if the turn signals or 4 way flashers are on all day. The resistors will get warm if used for an extended time, this is normal these are 50watt resistors, think of the heat produced as being half way between a 40W and 60W light bulb. But they are designed to handle this heat on a continuous basis and the turn signal or flasher are only on about 50% of the time.

I do understand that for those that do not understand electronics this all does not make a lot of sense. But the manufacturers are counting on you not running into people like me that see it for what it really is. The prices for the parts are way high for what they really are.

[Bert2006]

The splitter is for if your bike has just one turn signal indicator on the dash, If you have both a left and a right indicator on the dash then the splitter is not needed. If you are using the resistors I do not know if the splitter would be needed or not. The splitter is just 2 $0.50 diodes and 3 pieces of wire.

 

The Kuryakyn I would not even use based on this warning in the installation sheet.

 

Really? So if you have a roadside emergency and need your 4 way flashers, they expect you to rewire the bike on the side of the road, and then rewire it again when you are ready to leave? And don not get caught at a long red light or have a long wait for cross traffic to clear while at a stop sign? Really?

 

So your options for load equalizers are;

1. Big Bike Parts quad equalizer at $54.80. 5 Wire connections required.

2. Kuryakyn load equalizer x 2 at $22 each = $44.00. 6 Wire connections required. This one scares me.

3. Resistors that I specified at $3.78 each = $7.56. 4 Wire connections required.

 

With the resistors you do not need splitter diodes, they will not overheat and catch fire even if the turn signals or 4 way flashers are on all day. The resistors will get warm if used for an extended time, this is normal these are 50watt resistors, think of the heat produced as being half way between a 40W and 60W light bulb. But they are designed to handle this heat on a continuous basis and the turn signal or flasher are only on about 50% of the time.

I do understand that for those that do not understand electronics this all does not make a lot of sense. But the manufacturers are counting on you not running into people like me that see it for what it really is. The prices for the parts are way high for what they really are.

 

 

I had the same reaction in relation to 4 way flasher warning. Looks like I will go with the Big Bike unit with 4 wires to connect.

 

THANK YOU for all your advice on this one.

[djh3]

E-bay can be your friend also. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-3-OHM-50W-Wirewound-Aluminum-Housed-Resistor-50-Watts-/271123010581?hash=item3f2030d415:m:m3xUzqrzbze60PX6kn_jQEg

[Bert2006]

Thought I had all the info I needed but now have questions on the wirring scheme for the front and back for when I connect the load equalizers.

 

Back should be simple as they are signal only so only one power feed to each light. Colors should be black for ground, brown for left and green for right.

 

Front are running and turn so there should be 2 power feeds for each light. Does anybody know the wire colors for those? Also assume that I would connect the load equalizer to the wire that powers the blinking and not to the one that feeds the running.....is that correct?

 

Thanks!

[Flyinfool]

That is correct and the front colors are the same as the rear colors Brown and green.

[Bert2006]

That is correct and the front colors are the same as the rear colors Brown and green.

Thanks...so in the front there is only one power feed per signal lamp?

[Flyinfool]

There are 3 wires to each front bulb, ground, signal and running. You will be connecting to the signal and ground wires. The running light wire is blue.

[Bert2006]

There are 3 wires to each front bulb, ground, signal and running. You will be connecting to the signal and ground wires. The running light wire is blue.

Great, thanks for clarifying that for me...and for your patience...

[MikeWa]

A load equalizer is not needed. It is easy to modify the second gen RSV flasher to restore the flash rate.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84540-Flasher-Mod-follow-up

 

Mike

[Bert2006]

A load equalizer is not needed. It is easy to modify the second gen RSV flasher to restore the flash rate.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84540-Flasher-Mod-follow-up

 

Mike

Darn. I need to find some blinker fluid now...

[Flyinfool]

Be sure to get the synthetic blinker fluid, it lasts a lot longer.