Aftermarket TCI... The Ignitech. Problems.

[JohnMidnight]

Alright.

 

Been awhile since I been back here. Who collects 12$s just got 12$s. Anyway....

 

Do the ignitech units have a lifespan? Either Mine is failing like a bugger, or I've got a connector problem.

 

Problem: Bike dies. Cannot RESTART. Untill key switch is turned off and on, but IMMEDIATELY on starting bike dies.

 

When tested previously, hooked up, system reports the polarity switches. Turn key on off and polarity is good.

 

Today. It died three times.

 

1st time, I unpluged the main connector, bike went and goed.

2nd time only three blocks from where I was at, died. Unplugged both y connections, and returned them. Bike worked. Went.

Bike unpluged while getting food.

Bike worked till

3rd time.

 

Each time before key is OFF before starting

This time, key is ON, unplugged one connector labled VMAX. Put cover back on, bike starts, and goes makes it safetly back to barn 1.5 miles away.

 

Why fail? Getting conector cleaner to hose connectors (again)

Update 1: Used a foaming Electrical Contact cleaner. INjected each opening on the female side, and on the male side, for all three conntections. Reseated these connections three times for good measure. Will update again once testing begins in a few hrs.

 

Ideas, thoughts?

Edited December 14, 2015 by JohnMidnight
Update 1

[Beau-Kat]

Maybe tank venting issues instead?

[KISA]

Check pick up coil (93.5-126.5 Om)

[cimmer]

a good test would be to try the factory control box if you still have it and see it the issues is still there. If it is, then it isnt the ignitech system.. if issues goes away then you know you have issues with it.

Let us know if you can try that.

Rick F.

[JohnMidnight]

94 it read on the multimeter. But I ended up reading that from a exposed piece of wire where the insulation was gone. Just applied some black tape for now. Work site does not have what I would need to trip and remake the wire till I make it home for the weekend. The wire in question was not black. Water getting on or it rubbing something conductive would explain the reverse polarity I was getting read by the software. Will test further.

 

Also do not have one that works for the bike. Original is somewhere. Correct replacement is somewhere else, and a wrong one is somewhere else >.>. I haven't checked my storage locker tho. So maybe its there. The other two units anyhow were replaced because they were not working anyway.

But Im thinkiwng its the pickup wire on the BIKE side (not the pickup side). As that wire was exposed and could be able to be buggered and cause the problem.

 

Make sense to when the bike was STILL usually GOING at SPEED an responding to throttle and everything just no sparks.

 

But maybe its not the real problem....w hmmm................. I haven't checked the wires further down the line from the ignitech on top of the air cleaner box. (mostly because how much of a pain getting the box on and off is with that one stinkin' hose.

 

 

Edit: some additional info, clarification and some removable of extra ws.... The "W" key is a extra touchy button on this laptop.

[cimmer]

That hose to the airbox can be removed and a filter installed where it connects at the engine block and a plug attached to the airbox connection and it makes the airbox a lot easier to remove and reattach. One of the members here does sell the filter to do this.

Rick F.

[JohnMidnight]

One thing I haven't done is that. One thing that I'm tempted to just do, is plug the connection all together... because on my airbox, the connection is not open O.o (Seriously)

[cimmer]

This is a breather connection for the engine so I wouldnt plug it on the engine side as it needs to breathe. So the filter is the way to go as it also keeps the oil out of the air cleaner too if the oil is filled up to the full mark in the engine.

Rick F.

[garyS-NJ]

I bought a little xj550 some time ago and it had pod air cleaners and a small metal mesh breather on the crankcase vent which was falling apart and leaking oil (maybe when I filled the case top full). So I replaced the breather with a piece of clear hose (don't ask me what type of where it came from but I bet home depot) looping the hose up over the carbs then back down under the bike (do it can speak a slick in front of my rear tire). Been like that for years and I don't see oil in the hose.

[mralex714]

The next time it quits leave the key on and use a screw driver and tap on the fuel pump and see if it clicks. If it does I believe you have a bad fuel pump at least that what ended up being my problem

[garyS-NJ]

Good idea. Or you could drain a carb bowl and see if the pump refills it.

[JohnMidnight]

Fuel pump works. Thats a affirmative as I'm able to drive it, and it clicks even when it fails to go (the software also reports it work too O.o) but so far not thunked it yet >.> Though I think it may be a fuse problem at this point, but uncertain. Two of the fuses, the Ignition and Signal are both discolored, but are not broken. Except for the clasp on the signal fuse. The left side clasp broke, so nothing clamps smoothly. So on the list is a brand new member sold fuse box.

 

Redid the wiring for the pickup coil, as the frayed wire is completely broken. We don't have good solder, just junk solder now at this point, so I made some extra length of wire 18G with a pair of electrical couplers, and also snipped the connector on the pickup coil end replaced each wire end with a covered wire connector. One red one blue. ANd it APPEARS to be working...... till it stops again.

 

|So I will attempt troubleshooting the fuel pump, and get the fuse box replaced. Wont have any updates on that till probably January.