bongobobny Posted February 9, 2016 #26 Posted February 9, 2016 It might be too powerful for the shocks, it may deliver too large of a volume for the shocks to safely handle without blowing the seals...
videoarizona Posted February 10, 2016 #27 Posted February 10, 2016 In my playing around with the slime compressor, I don't think it's a high volume unit. Rather low volume, high pressure unit. Takes a while to pump up a tire, gets very hot. But I do think it could blow the seals quickly on shocks.
LukeMacPU Posted February 10, 2016 #28 Posted February 10, 2016 If powered by class shouldn't it shut off at target pressure? My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
LukeMacPU Posted February 17, 2016 #29 Posted February 17, 2016 No aftermarket compressor pump required! Last night I got a chance to pull my factory compressor apart and found the wee piston had seized in the cylinder. Electric motor works fine, just couldn't dislodge the piston. Pulled it all apart and free it up then cleaned and lubed it. Re-installed and it works like a champ! My filter foam coming into the compressor had disintegrated and probably didn't help matters any. I replaced that too. Hopefully, I won't have to re-visit this part of the bike for a while.
Prairiehammer Posted February 18, 2016 #30 Posted February 18, 2016 No aftermarket compressor pump required! Last night I got a chance to pull my factory compressor apart and found the wee piston had seized in the cylinder. Electric motor works fine, just couldn't dislodge the piston. Pulled it all apart and free it up then cleaned and lubed it. Re-installed and it works like a champ! My filter foam coming into the compressor had disintegrated and probably didn't help matters any. I replaced that too. Hopefully, I won't have to re-visit this part of the bike for a while. Just in case the compressor piston is worn and won't pump up enough air, one can "shim" the Teflon piston ring: CLASS System Overhaul.docx
LukeMacPU Posted March 17, 2016 #31 Posted March 17, 2016 Oil leaking from pump/valve assembly onto rear fender? What's that an indicator of? My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
LukeMacPU Posted April 12, 2016 #32 Posted April 12, 2016 Update... I had previously pulled and re-soldered the connections on the CLASS board. Apparently, my soldering skills are about as bad as my welding and I failed to make a good repair the first few attempts. Pulled it last night and used a very sharp point soldering iron and manual solder-sucker (technical term) that came with a TV board repair kit my father-in-law bought. Pretty handily removed the old solder and replaced with new. Plugged it back into the bike and I'm in business! CLASS working like it should, finally! Hopefully the connections hold fast for another 30 years and I don't have to re-visit that one for a while.
Yammer Dan Posted April 13, 2016 #33 Posted April 13, 2016 Dang it I miss all the good ones!!!:backinmyday:
camos Posted April 14, 2016 #34 Posted April 14, 2016 Some reason I can't wire in a wee compressor like this one instead of factory? http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454974801&sr=8-1&keywords=slime+mini+compressor My CLASS system is working and providing 12V to compressor when relay is activated. Should be pretty simple to wire this compact unit directly to that then hook output to valve system on bike, right? Am I missing something? Seems like it should fit.I see you have found and fixed the problem with the OEM compressor. That's a good thing because the Slime pump linked to is not very well built and in my opinion is not worth the effort to wire into the CLASS system. The first one I had was used about 6 times before the piston rod fell apart. I fixed it and worked about 8 more times before something fried and that was the end of it. The good thing about these pumps is they are small and easily stored which makes them a good enough choice to carry for emergencies. About the best thing about these pumps is Slime replaced mine for free no questions asked after 2 years. Very commendable for a $9 purchase although it would not take much to make them more reliable.
bongobobny Posted April 14, 2016 #35 Posted April 14, 2016 ...also it might produce too large of a volume of air per second making it possible to over-inflate the front shocks and blow out a seal. Probably OK for rear shock.
LukeMacPU Posted April 25, 2016 #36 Posted April 25, 2016 (edited) Update... I had previously pulled and re-soldered the connections on the CLASS board. Apparently, my soldering skills are about as bad as my welding and I failed to make a good repair the first few attempts. Pulled it last night and used a very sharp point soldering iron and manual solder-sucker (technical term) that came with a TV board repair kit my father-in-law bought. Pretty handily removed the old solder and replaced with new. Plugged it back into the bike and I'm in business! CLASS working like it should, finally! Hopefully the connections hold fast for another 30 years and I don't have to re-visit that one for a while. I spoke too soon! The darn thing quit working again... I'm back to not really pumping up the rear suspension. Something screwy with the valves back there just pumps up the hoses/valve chamber and not the suspension. May/may not be the wiring this time. Still puking oil onto the rear fender too. Any suggestions? UPDATE Seems I've either got a bad connection in the plug/harness where the wire for rear shock valve goes or I've got a loose solder on that pin. Definitely a problem right there. Checked the voltage measured at the back-side of the plug/harness and got correct readings intermittently depending how I wiggled the DMM probe. When voltage was correct, rear valve solenoid worked as it should. One step closer to a fix I hope... Anyone know the trick to getting those wires out of the plastic plug? Suspect I've got a bad connector inside it. Edited April 29, 2016 by LukeMacPU
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