Class broken, can I physically pump up air suspension?

[Kiwiroyale]

Gday

 

The E2 error appears permanent!!

 

I want to ride NOW after a long year of restoration, so while I await a replacement circuit board can I PHYSICALLY PUMP up the suspension?

 

I thought if I can somehow fit a temporary valve to the Class outlet hose I maybe able to supply air to the suspension?

 

Possible? done before or not?

 

I know that the forks will ride ok as they are, but what will the rear be like with no air?

 

Help please

 

Steve

[Flyinfool]

It can be done but not easily. You would have to disconnect the air lines from the class system and then rig up some kind of adapter to a schrader valve so you could pump them up with a hand pump.

 

Riding with no air will make the rear end sag and bottom out easy. Handling in corners will be compromised.

[cowpuc]

Next thing I would be looking at is a way to jumper the solenoid (or what ever they have in there to source air to the rear shock) and jumper the pump to make it run. I would do that before I would ride it with no air in the rear shock cause bottoming them out is hard on em. Front forks not so much unless the springs are sacked. Gotta be a way to electrically bypass that board and get air in the rear shock - the old hot wire it routine..

Been a long time since I had a Royale with onboard compressor (only had one and never had problems with the Class anyway) but it seems like the compressor and stuff was under the rack that the trunk mounts on. I would pop the trunk off it and take a look - may be surprised at how easy what I am talking about would be to do,, or maybe not.. Never know till ya take a peek..

[cowpuc]

Ok Kiwi, here ya go. Here are some pics I just took out of my shop manual. See if you can follow me on this (what the heck,, its just another adventure right?). Looks like ya gotta pull the trunk and the seat to do this so start there. Make a couple jumpers as shown in the pics. Jumper the wires for the rear valve as shown in the pics - gotta have your key in the Acc position according to the book - when you jumper the rear solenoid connector under the seat as shown you should hear a click - leave it jumpered so its engaged. Now jumper the compressor motor lead as shown so the compressor runs, you should see the back of the bike raise as the air fills the shock. Your gonna have guess as to how much air is in it by the height of the bike as it lifts - dont wanna over fill but you wanna get enough so your not bottoming out..

If I were on the road on a tour and had problems like you are having - this is what I would do long before I started trying to disconnect hoses (real pain) to hand pump. Matter of fact, it wouldnt be beyond my "make it work" attitude to even toss a couple switches into the jumpers so I could adjust the rear boingers again if I had to..

Hope this helps get ya riding and doesnt create confusion of some sort,, I KNOW I can be hard to follow sometimes!! Maybe someone with a better solution will come along here:fingers-crossed-emo

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Big Auggie]

I converted mine to manual with a schrader valve. I took the hose down to the auto parts store and they set me up with a compression fitting. It was difficult getting the compression fitting over the hose but possible.Eventually found out that the problem was a leaking hose. Replaced the hose, but not going back to the CLASS system anytime soon.

[Kiwiroyale]

Thanks so much to all for your help and advice!!!

 

cowpuc i had actually "hotwired" the compressor motor, I just could not figure out how to jump the solenoid, so thank you, I found that page in my manual, I will try this and see how I go. Oh and by the way I completely understood what you were saying!!!!!! Cheers

Edited December 13, 2015 by Kiwiroyale

[Flyinfool]

Thanks so much to all for your help and advice!!!

 

cowpuc i had actually "hotwired" the compressor motor, I just could not figure out how to jump the solenoid, so thank you, I found that page in my manual, I will try this and see how I go. Oh and by the way I completely understood what you were saying!!!!!! Cheers

 

You completely understood @cowpuc?

I'm sorry to be the one to inform you, that you might just be one of us:rasberry: .

Welcome to the asylum.

[KIC]

Thanks so much to all for your help and advice!!!

 

cowpuc i had actually "hotwired" the compressor motor, I just could not figure out how to jump the solenoid, so thank you, I found that page in my manual, I will try this and see how I go. Oh and by the way I completely understood what you were saying!!!!!! Cheers

 

WOW... somebody understood PUC ? ..and admitted it in public ??? I am .... I am..... I am... totally perplexed at that happening...

[cowpuc]

You completely understood @cowpuc?

I'm sorry to be the one to inform you, that you might just be one of us:rasberry: .

Welcome to the asylum.

 

WOW... somebody understood PUC ? ..and admitted it in public ??? I am .... I am..... I am... totally perplexed at that happening...

 

Its not easy being a Puc but its friends like these two varmints who make it a whole lot more tolerable

[Kiwiroyale]

Its not easy being a Puc but its friends like these two varmints who make it a whole lot more tolerable

 

Haha, and unfortunately I am going to give them more fodder by saying not only did I understand your post but YOU WERE RIGHT!!!!!! It WORKED!!!!!!

 

I now have a rideable bike!!!!!!

 

I actually removed all three solenoid cylinders so I could be sure the "plungers" we're opening/closing fully, as I could only hear a very faint click from the "rear shocky" solenoid , I fixed this by thoroughly cleaning the main connecting plug (of which I was attaching my "jumper lead") which was full of road grime, I then had a very definite and audible plunger activation.

 

I then put the whole assembly back together now nice and clean also.

 

Slighty different from your post I made up two small jumper leads directly from an old 12v motorcycle battery, i used this to start the compressor motor, HEY PRESTO WE HAVE A RISNG REAR SHOCKY!!!!

 

I took the pressure up as high as I dare, I compressed the shocky by "bouncing" on the pegs (extra person to hold bike steady) this gave me at least a base line, I think I have around 60-70 psi in there.

 

Now all I need is skydoc_17 to find me a new/old CLASS controller...

 

I eagerly anticipate a humorous response Flyinfool and Kic...

 

Steve

[cowpuc]

Haha, and unfortunately I am going to give them more fodder by saying not only did I understand your post but YOU WERE RIGHT!!!!!! It WORKED!!!!!!

 

I now have a rideable bike!!!!!!

 

I actually removed all three solenoid cylinders so I could be sure the "plungers" we're opening/closing fully, as I could only hear a very faint click from the "rear shocky" solenoid , I fixed this by thoroughly cleaning the main connecting plug (of which I was attaching my "jumper lead") which was full of road grime, I then had a very definite and audible plunger activation.

 

I then put the whole assembly back together now nice and clean also.

 

Slighty different from your post I made up two small jumper leads directly from an old 12v motorcycle battery, i used this to start the compressor motor, HEY PRESTO WE HAVE A RISNG REAR SHOCKY!!!!

 

I took the pressure up as high as I dare, I compressed the shocky by "bouncing" on the pegs (extra person to hold bike steady) this gave me at least a base line, I think I have around 60-70 psi in there.

 

Now all I need is skydoc_17 to find me a new/old CLASS controller...

 

I eagerly anticipate a humorous response Flyinfool and Kic...

 

Steve

""I now have a rideable bike!!!!!!"" = AH HAH!!!! cause in the end - THAT is what REALLY matters Kiwi!!!

Before the likes of @Flyinfool or @KIC come on here and make some lop eared varmint comment along the line of something like "yea, but you do realize that you just got assistance from the Cat In The Hat in human form" or something like that, I would like to stand up in my own defense once again say to them = AH HAH, his bike is now rideable

 

GOOD ON YA BROTHER and GOOD JOB!!

[KIC]

Uhm.... I don't know what to say... We have never encountered a correct CowPuc.

 

Having a correct CowPuc is like proving pigs like lipstick AND can fly, or that politicians never lie, or that 2nd Generations are faster bikes. Some things just never naturally occur and when they do, it is totally unexplainable. .

 

We only let him on here because the Doctor said it was good therapy for him to be around other people, but how he keeps slipping his arm out of that "special" white jacket to type is another one of the unexplainable wonders..

 

I'm calling 20/20 and asking for a full investigation...

[garyS-NJ]

The class controller on my '84 does not do anyghing. It just says "PSI" on the screen. Can someone point me to a starting point? & then is rear pressure the only thing I can set for ride height? I'd like it low as possible. I'm 160lbs and my gf is another 100lbs and joins me sometimes.

[Kiwiroyale]

G'day Gary

 

I am sure the gurus will help you at some stage, but my two cents worth as I have spent close to 20 after work hours on my '83 Class problems this week, you do know Class will only "work" when key on Acc position? (forgive me if this is obvious too you), otherwise I had a blank (psi, is ALWAYS displayed) screen when I discovered a blown fuse, inside the red wired black rubber number atop the battery ( I assume my 83 is the same as your 84.

 

Personally I would say it's a blown fuse, of course that's just the start as replacing the fuse won't fix the reason it blew in the first place!!!!!!

 

Hope this is of some use

 

Steve

[Flyinfool]

See Kic, I told you that ol @cowpuc was not as dumb as he looks, he is a pretty fart smeller ya know.

 

Gee that Puc can be a sore winner when he gets one right......

 

Back to the development of the 60° snow that he wanted.....

[Condor]

Another source for a shreader valve conversion is using Harley parts from their air shocks set up. You can find them on eBay with or without the shocks. I picked up a set of rear shocks complete with all the air 'fixings' and plan on installing them on the Voyager Kit....

[Prairiehammer]

The class controller on my '84 does not do anyghing. It just says "PSI" on the screen. Can someone point me to a starting point? & then is rear pressure the only thing I can set for ride height? I'd like it low as possible. I'm 160lbs and my gf is another 100lbs and joins me sometimes.

 

Gary, as Kiwiroyale said, first check that the CLASS fuse is not blown. And as he says, the CLASS will only operate in the ACC key position.

A properly working CLASS will adjust front and rear suspension.

Finally, I recommend that you not run zero air pressure in the Venture rear or front (unless you have new springs in the front, in which case many folks DO run 0 psi in the front).

[garyS-NJ]

thanks. No I didn't know ACC position bur I think I went through the fuses..

[Prairiehammer]

thanks. No I didn't know ACC position bur I think I went through the fuses..

 

The CLASS fuse is not on the main fuse block. It is in a separate rubber encased fuse holder. Here is a pic:

[garyS-NJ]

Last night I remembered to try my CLASS with the switch on ACC and then the class kinda worked (maybe I kinda didn't know how it was supposed to work tho). I couldn't do anything in manual mode but in auto mode I did get something from the rear - pumping up to 10 psi on medium?> (but I tried it a few times and think it bled down and had to pump up again). I couldn't get it to address the front forks. And at some point I got an E2 error code.

[Kiwiroyale]

Last night I remembered to try my CLASS with the switch on ACC and then the class kinda worked (maybe I kinda didn't know how it was supposed to work tho). I couldn't do anything in manual mode but in auto mode I did get something from the rear - pumping up to 10 psi on medium?> (but I tried it a few times and think it bled down and had to pump up again). I couldn't get it to address the front forks. And at some point I got an E2 error code.

 

Gady Gary, Oh where do I start!!!

 

First and foremost I have discovered that an E2 error is TERMINAL!!!! She is not coming back from that one, unless you are an electronic whiz maybe and can "pull down" and repair a circuit board. It appears that the only non-repairable "E" code from 1-5, is E2 according to my manual and other sources.

 

However...

 

It sounds like yours is displaying the same symptoms as mine when it was half working... FIRSTLY read the previous thread in this post, the gurus have come up with some great advice.

 

THEN... (This is what I did) check and clean, with an electrical non conductive spray ALL connectors from the control box on your dash right through to the compressor under the rear trunk. This is not a five minute job so have a cup of coffee with you... take care when removing the control box as the main "plug blades/spades" are soldered directly onto the circuit board.

 

When I cleaned these connectors I had a nice consistent air flow via the control box in both manual and auto settings.

 

Then...check the soldier joints on the circuit board where the plug connects, there is a great in this site somewhere, unfortunately I am not that savy when it comes to adding links etc... Sorry. I will almost guarantee though that this "fix" has already been carried out.

 

Then, you will need another coffee... I completely dismantled the entire Compressor system, checking ALL "O" rings, on the air lines, including the dessicant cylinder, I then removed each of the three solenoid cylinders from the unit, I "jumpered" each one so that I could physically see (rather then hear) if they were working, the "plunger" will retract/release with power. If the "discharge solenoid has problems then that will be the reason your air bleeds out (in my opinion based on what I have learnt from this exercise)

 

AND FINALLY, when all else fails and you really NEED TO RIDE, NOW!!! Then read the brilliant thread from Cowpuc in (page 1 of this post).

 

That won't work though if you cannot prevent the air from bleeding out.

 

Otherwise we are both up for a new control box, you are closer to one than I though!!!

 

Merry Xmas

 

Steve

[LukeMacPU]

Haven't done a terribly thorough check yet, but my compressor seems to have quit. I get the CLASS system to work correctly, but pump won't come on when relay sends power to it. Did verify I get 12V to the compressor wires when the system tries to turn it on so relay seems to be working.

 

I'll do more digging later, but for now I've only got 10 psi front and back. New progressive springs up front so that's not terrible, but I'm worried about the rear.

 

Anyone ever stick a generic compressor in there and wire/hose it to the system? Nothing special about it is there?

 

 

My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,

[paysaw]

i have a spare class unit as well a couple of good compressor setups.I used them to test all my suspension problems.Let me know if someone needs them. Thanks

Edited February 8, 2016 by paysaw

[LukeMacPU]

Thanks. I'm going to see if I can get the compressor to run after I remove it from the bike. If not, I might have to find out what the going rate for a CLASS unit compressor is.

Edited February 9, 2016 by LukeMacPU

[LukeMacPU]

Some reason I can't wire in a wee compressor like this one instead of factory?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454974801&sr=8-1&keywords=slime+mini+compressor

 

My CLASS system is working and providing 12V to compressor when relay is activated. Should be pretty simple to wire this compact unit directly to that then hook output to valve system on bike, right? Am I missing something? Seems like it should fit.